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11
Members Rides / Re: Graphite Blue GTI Build Thread
« Last post by mk1_dave on March 26, 2024, 10:37:14 am »
Another update..

Have never liked the look of the original pole style aerial so picked up an original mk5 shark fin, sanded it and painted to match the lc5f paint. Came out pretty good and colour match is good.

I also bought a flip badge reversing camera as I knew I would have some of the trim off to fit the aerial. The reversing camera is really good quality and was pretty easy to install. You have to take off the boot trim, rear door card, some parts of the dashboard and of course the radio. I took the rear bench out at the same time so I could clean under them and would give me better access to get the door card out. The wiring was easy once you get the wires through the rubber grommet in the boot. I taped the wire to a cable tie then once I got a small section in I used some spray grease to help as the grommet doesn't have much space for the extra wires.

The badge looks much cleaner and has a drain hole that lets the water and dirt get out of the badge recess also comes with a rubber pipe to allow you to direct the water to the drain hole in the boot, if vw done this from the factory I doubt there would be as many rusty boot lids!

Decided to delete the rear wiper when I had everything off as I never use it. Ended up blocking off the screen wash pipe but I'm planning on buying one of the wiper stalks that came on the cars that don't have a rear wiper then this will solve the issue of accidentally hitting the screen wash.

Next on the list is new speakers, an amp and a new front bumper if I can find one in Scotland for a decent price.

Still not a fan of gloss black wheels but here's a couple of updated pictures of how the car sits at the minute.












12
Mk5 General Area / Re: help me identify this part after replacing cam follower
« Last post by Doomhand on March 26, 2024, 07:37:56 am »
Glad you found it!

I watched the video you posted but I'm still not sure which part in the video is the one that fell out of yours. The retainer piece looks like a different shape to the simple flat metal cylinder on your photos earlier.

By any chance did you take a photo of the reassembly of the pump with the piece visible?

Very curious in case something like this ever happens on mine.

Sadly I did not take a picture but check the video that I uploaded. It has all the info you need.

I can see from the post you linked the little retainer as well, the one that you actually hammer down to put back into place.

13
Mk5 General Area / Wheel Color Ideas
« Last post by MKVASMR on March 25, 2024, 10:08:17 pm »
Hi guys, I really like my detroits but I want to paint them in some other Color. Does anyone have pictures of the wheels in different Color on a black car?


14
Mk5 General Area / Power steering problem
« Last post by buki99 on March 25, 2024, 06:51:21 pm »
A few days ago i was performing a right hand turn, i applied a bit more throttle since there was oncoming traffic, and the steering became heavy for a split second, the yellow steering wheel dash lamp was lit and blinking for about 5 seconds before going away, the car also started revving, like it kicked me out of gear, the car in question is mk5 gti 2007 with DSG, all of this happened in 5 seconds and it returned to normal.
I checked for fault codes with OBD eleven and there was 00446 Steering assistance code and 01749 downshift button on steering wheel. I cleared both codes and they didn't come back until two days ago when that happened to me again, I was going right again and i applied heavier throttle, i am not sure what is causing this issue, hopefully someone can help.
15
Your boost does seem to be slightly too low from the requested boost, by a few hundred mbar. So there is definitely an issue with boost somewhere. Mine is at most -150mbar from requested when accelerating fully, usually +-50mbar.

Also remember that it's most useful to subtract ambient atmospheric pressure when talking about boost numbers, 1000mbar, e.g. my peak boost boost is 16 psi/1.1bar in my graph.

As for octane, I think mapping on that is equally at fault for the disappointing performance.

In Ireland we only have 95 octane, so if you want more octane here you have to use octane booster. So nearly everybody maps on 95 octane. Back when my car only had a cold air intake it was measured 184hp stock, then 225hp stage 1 (on dyno). When using measuring engine torque in KW via VCDS later, I estimated adding expensive octane booster to make the octane 99 only raised HP by 8-10hp on my 95 map. But the car felt a lot more responsive, and the timing was less retarded so the engine sounded more aggressive. Adding the 200 cel sports cat and another mapping raised the 95 octane power to 235hp, so max 245hp with octane booster.

Online tuners give their numbers for mapping on 98/99 octane, so if you see 'Stage 1 250hp or Stage 2 275hp' they are talking about the car running on a 98/99 map, that can't run 95. Nobody ever gives numbers for 95 octane mapping unfortunately. So if you're making ~230-240hp on a 95 map (on 99 fuel) that's probably realistic numbers.

If I had easy access to 99 octane, I would map for only 99 octane. And I would expect my stage 2 to be ~275hp. '270-275bhp' is a fantasy for stage 1 with no engine mods, your tuner may be overestimating to make his map sound better than other tuners.

Only way to know how much power it's actually making is to go to a real dyno. If that's not an option, you can log Mass Air Flow g/s (act.) and Engine Torque Nm (act.) in VCDS next time you do your log, that can *estimate* hp, but it can be inaccurate.

The car definitely feels mapped and it's a big improvement over stock but it doesn't quite run how it should. Tuners here claim 260hp for a stage 1 map, on 100 octane presumably.

The problem is that I can feel it boost then it dies off quite fast so it's definitely meeting the expected boost early on but it cant maintain it. I suspect the wastegate or the N75.

The tuner is a friend of mine so he was my first choice. This being the first car he mapped for me, I cant say if the map is good or not. I haven't dyno-d my car because this buddy is mainly a mechanic/car electrician and donesnt have a dyno and it would have cost 180 euros at a different tuner. A stage 1 map would have cost me between 500 and 600 euros so I was quite happy when he offered to do it for me for 200. (He normally makes maps for 350). He did offer to put a different map on the car just to try but said it's unlikely to change anything since he thinks it's a turbo issue.

I went for a run and measured G's and torque; The first one is a 3rd through 4th gear pull, the second is a 2nd through 4th gear pull (60-180)



16
Mk5 General Area / Re: What does this engine clicking noise sound like to you?
« Last post by OllieVRS on March 25, 2024, 02:50:23 pm »
Haha, thanks. Just stumped up £20 for a genuine one. Seems expensive but I think I'd rather pay £20 than be holding on to a drill for two days crying.

Fingers crossed.

Bang on. When after 13 hours of drilling (including 3 journeys to the shops for drill bits), and continuous muscle pain from holding the drill in place, I actually cried tears of happiness/relief :grin:
17
Good luck with it.

I did this last year, a few recommendations and notes from my experience:

By a genuine VW bit for the adjust bolt, as I bought a cheapo Laser one off Amazon, it didn't fit snuggly and stripped the bolt. Make sure there is a little oil as possible on the bolt when undoing it.

And not to scare you, but bashing in the T60 isn't guaranteed to work. For me it would just slip out. So I ended up spending two days and multiple drill bits drilling the b*stard out. Plan B may turn into Plan C  :grin:

Welding up the cam locking tool is a great idea, as the legs on my Chinese Amazon one bent from all the torque, making it near-useless, as I didn't have a welder. I had to use vice grips with a cloth to secure the cam, which is risky as the cam itself is hollow so it can break. Also make sure to weld in such a way that the cam locking tool still fit, that your welds aren't in the way.

Otherwise you're good to go  :happy2:

Haha, thanks. Just stumped up £20 for a genuine one. Seems expensive but I think I'd rather pay £20 than be holding on to a drill for two days crying.

Fingers crossed.
18
Mk5 General Area / Re: What does this engine clicking noise sound like to you?
« Last post by OllieVRS on March 25, 2024, 12:13:13 pm »
Good luck with it.

I did this last year, a few recommendations and notes from my experience:

By a genuine VW bit for the adjust bolt, as I bought a cheapo Laser one off Amazon, it didn't fit snuggly and stripped the bolt. Make sure there is a little oil as possible on the bolt when undoing it.

And not to scare you, but bashing in the T60 isn't guaranteed to work. For me it would just slip out. So I ended up spending two days and multiple drill bits drilling the b*stard out. Plan B may turn into Plan C  :grin:

Welding up the cam locking tool is a great idea, as the legs on my Chinese Amazon one bent from all the torque, making it near-useless, as I didn't have a welder. I had to use vice grips with a cloth to secure the cam, which is risky as the cam itself is hollow so it can break. Also make sure to weld in such a way that the cam locking tool still fit, that your welds aren't in the way.

Otherwise you're good to go  :happy2:
19
Your boost does seem to be slightly too low from the requested boost, by a few hundred mbar. So there is definitely an issue with boost somewhere. Mine is at most -150mbar from requested when accelerating fully, usually +-50mbar.

Also remember that it's most useful to subtract ambient atmospheric pressure when talking about boost numbers, 1000mbar, e.g. my peak boost boost is 16 psi/1.1bar in my graph.

As for octane, I think mapping on that is equally at fault for the disappointing performance.

In Ireland we only have 95 octane, so if you want more octane here you have to use octane booster. So nearly everybody maps on 95 octane. Back when my car only had a cold air intake it was measured 184hp stock, then 225hp stage 1 (on dyno). When using measuring engine torque in KW via VCDS later, I estimated adding expensive octane booster to make the octane 99 only raised HP by 8-10hp on my 95 map. But the car felt a lot more responsive, and the timing was less retarded so the engine sounded more aggressive. Adding the 200 cel sports cat and another mapping raised the 95 octane power to 235hp, so max 245hp with octane booster.

Online tuners give their numbers for mapping on 98/99 octane, so if you see 'Stage 1 250hp or Stage 2 275hp' they are talking about the car running on a 98/99 map, that can't run 95. Nobody ever gives numbers for 95 octane mapping unfortunately. So if you're making ~230-240hp on a 95 map (on 99 fuel) that's probably realistic numbers.

If I had easy access to 99 octane, I would map for only 99 octane. And I would expect my stage 2 to be ~275hp. '270-275bhp' is a fantasy for stage 1 with no engine mods, your tuner may be overestimating to make his map sound better than other tuners.

Only way to know how much power it's actually making is to go to a real dyno. If that's not an option, you can log Mass Air Flow g/s (act.) and Engine Torque Nm (act.) in VCDS next time you do your log, that can *estimate* hp, but it can be inaccurate.
20
Got mine from my local mechanic. He has some contacts with parts suppliers and can get me some decent prices. I'm gonna give aprox. prices due to conversion rates. Chain and tensioner were 60 euros, roller was 150, adjuster control valve was 25, vvt housing gasket was 5 and valve cover gasket was 10. If I were to go to a parts dealer other than my guy, I'd pay double.

I'd change the adjuster valve too and clean the camshaft position sensor along with the crankshaft sensor. Crank sensor is under the intake, to the left of the throttle body, next to the thermostat.

EDIT: You or whoever does the timing kit for you, keep the following in mind. The bolt that secures the VVT gear to the exhaust camshaft needs a special socket to unbolt (VW5220). It will most likely be stuck in place and will take quite some force to remove. The bolt itself is super easy to strip so make sure you don't let the socket wiggle and make sure it's all the way in. I've managed to strip my bolt and had to drill it then hammer an M10 key into it to finally get some grip and be able to remove it. I'm sure the camshaft didn't like it but I will be replacing them anyway later.

Thanks. Bought the following items from eBay:

* INA Timing Chain, INA Tensioner, INA Adjuster, Bolt: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385581070466
* Elring Timing Chain Cover Gasket: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186098855406
* Oil Control Rings (not sure what manufacturer, couldn't find Elring): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333932667755
* INA Camshaft Adjuster Valve: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335229150433

Also bought a cheap cam locking tool from eBay. I've seen these snap, so going to weld it up beforehand: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BYNFM3KG/

So that's about £350 altogether for INA parts plus the tools I need.

I'm going to give it a go in a week or two when the parts arrive.

I'm fully expecting the camshaft adjuster bolt to give me some trouble. But as you say, drilling it out a little and hammering in an T60 torx seems like plan B:


Thanks again.
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