URGENT oil pressure stop engine

[GTI8v]

Looking good...

[doylebros]

When running was it missfiring and if so that data should be stored or was it just very noisey?

[Pesky jones]

I did measure the missfire sum counter block and it said it wasnt misfiring, but it was very noisey. Uploading the video to youtube at the mo, its taking ages.

[Pesky jones]

[rich83]

Doesnt sound too good 

[Pesky jones]

No it really doesn't. At 1.30 the sound starts to change, get quieter, and then the noise starts. Towards the end before I turn it off it's starting to get really bad, and you can even see the car start to shake.

Im debating whether to give the timing another shot. Thoughts? The only thing is that as @Pudding says it shouldn't be possible to get the adjustment that far out (-3.5kw vs 28kw) so why is it?

Why does the engine run differently for a minute before changing? I would have thought that it would run consistently bad throughout.

[Dan_FR]

Have you checked with VCDS to see whether the change of idle at 1.30 is related to a changine of cam timing through measuring block 91? If you restarted it straight away after the video, how would the car behave? Instantly exactly the same, or a period of 15-30 seconds wheres its not too bad before starting to idle badly again?

Check the belt timing marks first of all and ensure that is right, easy enough to get it a tooth out. As i have already said, the cam timing isn't 'out' as far as you think. Don't know how you've done it, but it is and needs resolving before you go any further

On a cold star, a multitude of running conditions change during the first few minutes during the cold start routine. Cam timing changes, dual fuel injection etc.

[Pesky jones]

No I didn’t, I didn’t scan when I first turned it on because I wanted to be in front of the car to check it wasn’t smoking etc. Once its warmed it will sound the same pretty much as soon as it starts.

By belt do you mean cambelt? So check the crankshaft and camshaft timing reference marks, insert the locking tool, remove chain and try timing it again?

[pudding]

No afraid its not good 

The car sounded okish for a little longer, but the revs were about 1200 for a while and then they die down to about 750 and the horrible noise starts again 

I scanned it after running it and it still didnt return any fault codes. I then measured block 91 and got the same -3.5 kw.

Dont know what to do next to be honest, just uploading a video of it running toady...

What was the the water temperature of the engine at the time?  The cam might not start advancing until it's warmed up?   I will data log the behaviour of mine over the weekend, from stone cold to hot.

What is the reading in block 93?  That will give you your static cam position.   If your physical timing was so far out to cause problems, the ECU would normally throw a "Cam / crank correlation error" or "Retard / advance - set point not reached".  Try running through the cam adjuster's adaptation.  I think it's block 92 or 94.  You enable the test and it should cycle through from -33 to + 30ish.  If it doesn't, the cam adjustment definitely isn't working.

[Pesky jones]

The thing is the noise and shaking gets so bad that I dont want to leave it running to warm up, im scared its going to blow up! In the video when it gets bad you see me hastily turning it off.

Could you explain a little more about the test and how to do it please?

Someone on the fb group has said theirs run exactly the same as mine is and it was because their cam chain timing was out. I think I must have got it wrong somehow.

I think I should strip it back, mark the existing position of chain and then re install the chain slightly differently and hope for the best? Annoying that I wont know there and then but I dont think I have many other options

Plus it.gives me a chance to try to stop the oil leak.

[pudding]

You can still measure block 93 with it shaking about mate.  Zero to -2KW is what you're looking for.

I don't see how you could have messed the timing up tbh.   I literally just aligned the marks on the cambelt end, stuck the cam locking tool in, removed everything, slapped new chain on, job done.  Whilst doing it, I really couldn't see how it could get messed up as the cams can't move enough to get it so far off, maybe half or 1 tooth off max, and the cam adjuster can only go on one way.

To do the cam adjustment adaptation I think you go into basic settings, put 94 (or could be 92, can't remember) and hit Go or something.  Been ages since I did an adaptation.  Have a look on Ross Tech's site.

If you can't get it up to temp, it could be quite hard to test but I'll check what my cam advance is from cold.

[dazza]

Try putting it in TDC to check things are still lined up.

[Pesky jones]

Thanks pudding that'd be great. The person on the fb group had his engine running exactly the same as mine. He got a reading of 2.5 actual adjustment and he said he wasnt even a tooth off. He said he put the locking tool in, but turned and held the inlet cam clockwise when tightening the bolt for the VVT unit / adjustor.

Hopefully this could be my problem?

[Dan_FR]

Sounds like it could well be it to me - As I said it isn't a lot out and it's easily done

[pudding]

Thanks pudding that'd be great. The person on the fb group had his engine running exactly the same as mine. He got a reading of 2.5 actual adjustment and he said he wasnt even a tooth off. He said he put the locking tool in, but turned and held the inlet cam clockwise when tightening the bolt for the VVT unit / adjustor.

Hopefully this could be my problem?

What's this FB group?  I might join it 

The procedure for the cam chain installation is to get the cam adjuster peg as close to alignment on the exhaust cam's key as possible, then tweak the inlet cam round slightly (with that 2 pronged tool thing) until it engages.  I didn't do that.  Either I was lucky and it just engaged straight away or I didn't do it properly.  Either way, the end result seems to be in spec, so therefore doing what this chap did doesn't appear to be essential.  Dunno really.  Mine runs fine so I guess I got away with it!

Measuring block 93 I think is the more telling one.  If it's miles adrift of what we know to be normal (0 to -2KW) then that should in theory point to the timing being off.