All Things Mk5 > Members Rides
My Black 3 Door Manual ED30 No2297
csrigo:
--- Quote from: Shoduchi on November 25, 2018, 05:14:05 pm ---I've done my readings with the N205 solenoid connected. I guess I need to recheck the readings... :thinking:
Great job csrigo! :congrats:
--- End quote ---
Thanks mate much appreciated :happy2:. I'm sure you'rs will be ok bud as you know it's a 2 sec check with your vcds with the valve disconnected.
You still happy with your TTE420? Feeling good with the slightly colder climate now?
Shoduchi:
--- Quote from: csrigo on November 25, 2018, 06:52:15 pm ---Thanks mate much appreciated :happy2:. I'm sure you'rs will be ok bud as you know it's a 2 sec check with your vcds with the valve disconnected.
You still happy with your TTE420? Feeling good with the slightly colder climate now?
--- End quote ---
This last week it has been raining since Monday night. I have to drive carefully since my track tyres aren't that good on wet roads. Next week I should be able to test better the performance of the new IC. While on track I'd only get high IAT at the end of the long straight, they would reduce to more reasonable temperatures doing the next corners. I'm not running that much boost with the TTE420. Doing some runs with Dragy should tell me if my car is a bit faster now with the new IC and with a colder climate. :smiley:
csrigo:
Finally getting this to work kind of. Printout of my results after my visit to R-Tech. Apologies for the stupid photobucket logo I dont know how to remove it. :fighting:
My own review of my R-Tech map.
Now I had just done the RFD and intake valve clean 2 days before I went down for this map and the car was feeling great, the reason I went to R-Tech was for a couple of reasons mainly I wanted it custom mapped to my liking though.
Nicky done an amazing job with the car. He removed the RFD fault codes so they wouldnt return and also mapped it out so it doesnt run roughish at idle when cold...tbh mine didnt really do this anyway but I wanted it perfected as much as possible.
Also my APR 2+ map was crazy aggresive and I would break traction constantly in the wet....even trying to feather the throttle was difficult with the APR map in wet conditions it was either on or off kinda feeling. I always run mich PS4s so no cheapo on the tyre side of things. APR map wasnt the most fuel efficient either.
Now the linear throttle/boost I wasnt sure about tbh BEFORE I went down and the mapped traction control I didnt really care about or put much thought into since if im going quick or on track it gets switched off instantly anyway...HOWEVER after getting this adjusted also day to day driving it does make a big difference the car is much more usable as it doesnt come in as harsh or immediate which it did with the APR map which is handy at junctions or any normal pulling away scenario it does make the car a much more usable machine now....again mainly in the wet if your attempting to move a bit sharp.
Linear throttle /boost does make the car drive completely different and at first I was like hmmm...BUT its the bum dyno that throws you as when you actually do compare to the way the car was driving before its much much quicker...the fact i can get traction earlier and keep it down a bit more the car motors like fck. Plus I went againt my mate from works RS3 and lol what a difference.
I dont drive the car every day now but have been using it a lot after this as it has become much more usable and the power stays wayyy longer..
I dont rag the car ever and never hit the limiter (Or anywhere near it tbh) but Nicky did say it could be used right up to the limiter now which would get the most from it.....fck aye does it!! I gave it an ehh controlled run on a closed off road we will say to see what it could do as i kept looking at the map and thght fck it im giving it a go.....now to be clear I never do this as im not a 20 year old idiot anymore but i had to see what it could do.
Car pulls constantly strong to the limiter and keeps up with my colleague from works RS3...to an insane top speed btw.
After driving it now for a week or so I love the R-Tech map...doesnt feel as aggresive but is wayyyyy quicker overall I cant stress that enough.
More usable
More efficiant
Quicker and faster
Cheaper than Revo and APR which are generic
Im not slating these maps/companies as I have been happy with my APR 2+ up until this point however the car is quicker more efficient and my LTFTs are back down to approx 2% which is amazing...My APR map was over 10% albeit I did have slight air leak which i sorted before hand.
I drove 6 hours each way for this and i feel it was worth it so if you live near R-Tech or even in England and only a couple hours away I would highly suggest going to them.
Anyway this is just my personal opinion but there is no doubt the car is running better with this map...I run a standard back box as im 34 and I like to keep it subtle but with a full system Nicky says the car would get really good BHP numbers if you into that...but its now not my daily so considering it :smiley:
pudding:
I agree, there's no point going in there and just changing the tensioner! Check your phase angle again in 6 months or so. Mine was also -1KW after new parts, but it drifted to -3KW after a few thousand miles. It hasn't affected the performance or noise though. You can never get it bang on 0KW due to the designed-in chain link 'hunting'. It's always slightly off on purpose to make sure the chain link and sprocket tooth wear is even, hence why you need to turn the engine about 50 times to get the copper links to line up again! +3KW to -3KW is in the TDC dwell zone, so nothing to worry about, plus as you say, the VVT phaser will tweak things as necessary.
Some very healthy numbers there mate :happy2: I was up there at one point but have gone back to Mr Chilled Revo Stage 1 :grin: It would be interesting to see if you get the same numbers after 500 miles. The ECU always adapts down. After a fresh map upload, or after pulling the battery, everything is the best it can be......and then after some miles the ECU pulls it back for lifespan. Annoying. I never got quite those numbers though. 410lbft torque but only 350ish hp. Stock exhaust and intake though. TBH I found it a pain in the arse as it's a daily car. It's much more useable on the road with less grunt :grin: One wheel peels were tedious. Spin doesn't win. I've found the car is much faster point-to-point on my local roads with top notch coil overs and modest power :smiley:
I had the linear throttle and hated it personally. I much prefer the stock throttle mapping, but each to our own :happy2: Glad you're happy though and did you ever sort the misfiring problems? I think you're on the slippery slope now. TTE420 and a diff for you next :grin:
I also pulled the torque back because running 400+ torque on stock BYDs can crack the ring lands. Maybe Shoduchi can confirm, but I think the BYD is not as strong as the CDL. Having said that, even CDLs bite the dust running those numbers over a long period. Not trying to put a downer on your good times, but if yours isn't a daily, it's less of a risk :happy2:
Caspersmith:
Nice R-Tech review, good to read you're happy, must've been a little apprehensive changing maps.
Will be taking mine there eventually.
Going to get my handling sorted first then take it there for walnut blast, DSG & engine map.
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version