All Things Mk5 > Members Rides
Very budget track build
Clarkj93:
Smoothed out the sunroof panel with a Mallet and some tiger seal. It's much better fit now but does look quite rough :grin: not for the faint hearted or the garage queen owners.
Interior has all been cleaned up
Been trying to wire a cut off switch in the fuel pump, but this mysterious relay cannot be found ended up wiring in the starter relay instead via some poor technical documentation I followed online. I've just left the cut off switch in place, see no reason to cut off the starter relay but it's more effort to undo then leave so oh well :grin:
4 week wait but bucket seat turned up! Great service from GSM, highly recommend.
Actually drove the car this week for the first time in almost 4 months. Feels like it's gone to stage 2 due to how much louder it is in the cabin and how noticeably faster it is. The non res miltek cat back still doesn't drone even when the interiors stripped mind so shows how good of an oem + exhaust that is. It does feel a little stiffer also, centre of gravity will now be lower and with the car being lighter now the spring rate will feel a little stiffer too.
Next job is RUST! The jacking points and the interior side of the sills need doing. Idea is to use brushes and wire wheels, then a rust converter and then some simple black hammerstein stuff. Por-15 is good but it doesn't work well on an area that gets hammered by debris and Jack's coming into contact with it.
Il be doing the Super pro bushes on the rear too, not sure what I'm going to do with the subframe yet... don't really want to leave the car on axle stands for a week or so while I refurb the subframe on a wonky drive way. Its alright for a day as the Jack's in place just in case but overnight I get a little concerned...
I have an idea too for suspension.... the b14 coiliver set uses progressive springs and fits oem front top mounts. My idea is currently to use a Compbrake adjustable top mount that's meant for non oem fitment as this will allow me to use a linear spring on the front, and the rear should be a straight swap easily enough. So not only a linear spring but a stiffer one. My research tells me the springs should be 250 front/285 rear, my research also tells me that going up 2kg/mm of spring rate should not be an issue for the valving of the damper, beyond 2kg supposedly is quite safe up until 4kg when things become unpredictable. So I'm thinking of going 375 front/400 rear. It kinda sounds like I should just upgrade the coilovers but think personally I'd rather leave it until I can justify getting something really quality and custom to my application and not just off the shelf with predicted spring rates and valving, plus I can use these top mounts for other coilivers.
I may even get around to finally fitting the TT hubs! Maybe anyway!
pudding:
I love how generous the Germans are with interior paint :grin:
Yeah you'll need different spring rates now you've stripped it out. You usually you go softer as there's less sprung mass to hold up. 70/60n/mm is fairly typical for a hot hatch in the coilover market (dunno what that is in lbs/in) so maybe try 50/50? Nicely balanced out there :grin:
Clarkj93:
Yeah literally no need to paint the interior, its got enough overspray to count as painted on a well galvanised steel body.
So currently ( I will have to check the spring rate myself when they're off the car) the spring rates are apparantally on the b14:
Front = 250lb/in - 4.5kg/mm - 43.8N/mm
Rear = 285 lb/in - 5.1kg/mm - 49.9N/mm
I'm proposing:
Front = 375lb/in - 6.7kg/mm - 65.7N/mm
Rear = 400lb/in - 7.1kg/mm - 70.1N/mm
So the spring rates will be far closer to what I see the full on expensive race coilovers using (around 80N/mm-120N/mm typically from info I've seen). Yellowspeed race coilovers use around 160N/mm springs on the front though.... which is not far off the stiffest spring rate most manufacturers of race springs even make!
Most setups I see are stiffer up front as the front is quite chunky compared to the rear where as this setup is and will be the other way around but having front and rear adjustable 24mm Arb's I can always get closer to that setup by going full stiff up front and full soft on rear if that is what works best after some trial and error.
bobby_fodge:
Can you slide the seat backwards and forwards with those side mounts?
Clarkj93:
--- Quote from: bobby_fodge on February 27, 2023, 05:57:24 pm ---Can you slide the seat backwards and forwards with those side mounts?
--- End quote ---
Mine are solid mounted but sparco make a cheap set of runners that can go in between, it will just mean the seat is ever so slightly higher.
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