All Things Mk5 > Members Rides
Very budget track build
Clarkj93:
--- Quote from: Pudding on April 07, 2023, 11:29:56 am ---£300 is pretty good :happy2: Much better than the UK outfits that want £1000 to rebuild Ohlins coilovers :stupid: :grin: Needless to say, they are still rotting in my parts cupboard :grin: I might sneak them onto the MK6 TDI when the missus isn't looking :grin: Also got the MK7.5R front brakes to chuck on as well :grin:
Yeah I reckon they've addressed the quality issues by now. It was circa 2006 I got a set and they hadn't been in operation that long at that point. Yeah I used the Comp brake top mounts on my Corrado many moons ago. I would recommend switching out the spherical bearings for NMB or Aurora (Merlin Motorsport sell them) as the ones supplied in mine only lasted 1000 miles :grin:
Yeah exactly, those lengths are what it takes merely to run a car low whilst keeping the roll centre where it needs to be :happy2: It's a hell of a lot of changes over a Golf! The TT is easily the sportiest setup car of the Golf platform cars :happy2:
:grin: Oh well, I guess all that faff is what we pay someone else to figure out :grin:
--- End quote ---
Surprised you have not flogged the Ohlins yet! Lots of grubby hand would love to a get a bargain on a set of them I bet.
Yeah It did come to mind that such a well priced top mount might have crappy bearings :grin: I did note that the sleeve nut on one side would not slide into the bearing with a bit of a thwack compared to the other side so that was a slight hint :grin: For under £200 though what can you expect, still great value.
Yeah, the "hairdresser's car" that every loves to say actually has some really cool engineer-y bits on it.
Did just whip to Halfords yesterday on saturday and stuck a 063 battery in, classic Ford Fiesta/Vauxhall Corsa style battery, runs absolutely fine with it. Weighed the new one in at 10.3kg, the old one at 16.7kg, it may be heavier than that when new as it has leaked a bit but a minimum weight saving of 6.4kg for a grand total of £45 is pretty decent still.
pudding:
--- Quote from: Clarkj93 on April 10, 2023, 08:30:55 am ---
--- Quote from: Pudding on April 07, 2023, 11:29:56 am ---£300 is pretty good :happy2: Much better than the UK outfits that want £1000 to rebuild Ohlins coilovers :stupid: :grin: Needless to say, they are still rotting in my parts cupboard :grin: I might sneak them onto the MK6 TDI when the missus isn't looking :grin: Also got the MK7.5R front brakes to chuck on as well :grin:
Yeah I reckon they've addressed the quality issues by now. It was circa 2006 I got a set and they hadn't been in operation that long at that point. Yeah I used the Comp brake top mounts on my Corrado many moons ago. I would recommend switching out the spherical bearings for NMB or Aurora (Merlin Motorsport sell them) as the ones supplied in mine only lasted 1000 miles :grin:
Yeah exactly, those lengths are what it takes merely to run a car low whilst keeping the roll centre where it needs to be :happy2: It's a hell of a lot of changes over a Golf! The TT is easily the sportiest setup car of the Golf platform cars :happy2:
:grin: Oh well, I guess all that faff is what we pay someone else to figure out :grin:
--- End quote ---
Surprised you have not flogged the Ohlins yet! Lots of grubby hand would love to a get a bargain on a set of them I bet.
Yeah It did come to mind that such a well priced top mount might have crappy bearings :grin: I did note that the sleeve nut on one side would not slide into the bearing with a bit of a thwack compared to the other side so that was a slight hint :grin: For under £200 though what can you expect, still great value.
Yeah, the "hairdresser's car" that every loves to say actually has some really cool engineer-y bits on it.
Did just whip to Halfords yesterday on saturday and stuck a 063 battery in, classic Ford Fiesta/Vauxhall Corsa style battery, runs absolutely fine with it. Weighed the new one in at 10.3kg, the old one at 16.7kg, it may be heavier than that when new as it has leaked a bit but a minimum weight saving of 6.4kg for a grand total of £45 is pretty decent still.
--- End quote ---
The front two need a rebuild as it's an early version of the kit with a nylon bearing sleeve that wears out prematurely, causing a knocking noise at slow speeds. They revised that part in the later kits, typically! I'm not one for selling stuff with caveats :grin: It's like all those car adverts with "Just needs an oil change" or "Runs a bit rough, just needs a coil" :grin: Yeah right, it were that cheap and simple, they'd have done it already :stupid:
:grin: yeah some slight issues with the build quality. The good ones are 3x the price though!
Yeah shame really as it's way better than a Golf in terms of handling and weight distribution! The Boxster was also technically a superb car, better than the 911 in some respects, but it was also afflicted by the same stereotype, or "You bought that because you can't afford a 911" :grin:
Cool, so long as you don't get any juddering from the steering at full lock in the winter, you can call that a win then :happy2:
Clarkj93:
yeah the too good to be true for-sale-er's. It is annoying the good ones are coming up to nearly 500 quid, I know there is some R&D involved but its not more more than a good quality bearing with two/three pieces of painted aluminium and some bolts attached :confused:
Yeah I bet you're right on that. Personally the cayman/boxster is more on my radar than the 911's, the idea of driving a 911 quickly sounds frightening to me I still don't understand how they don't fly off the road with their engine layout:grin:
Clarkj93:
So Bilstein stuff is back on, had a bit of a guts full for now. Forgot to post last time but did cut a hole in the wiper panel and insert a removable grommet, making camber changes a bit quicker, obviously its now just a standard top mount but thought it was still worth mentioning :grin:
I cleaned up the spare TT 8J hubs the other day, they look like they have some tiger pattern in this picture where I wire-wheeled them but they look good and polished in person. I was messing about with mocking up some kind of brake duct bracket, but the only way to get it to work to fit between the caliper and hub is some sort of reducer pipe that goes from about 2 to maybe 0.5 inches and weld it on. I don't think its really worth the effort and money frankly, so just going to point as closer as possibly to that gap between the caliper and hub as I can without causing issues.
I found this on an evo forum of the reducer pipe to bracket ducting solution
I did speak to Suspension Secrets the other day about my recent trial-and-errors not going so well. They basically said there is no issue with what I was trying, and the bump travel will be no less if the ride height is the same so I could actually persevere. So after all that, taking the front dampers off about 8 times I think all for nothing :grin: I was actually close to getting a new spring setup! I've put it on hold now and will come back to it later in the year I think when I start to get itchy again to tinker.
I came across this picture on this forum, which was posted quite some years ago now
Its a droop strap on the rear of a Production GTI race car, I've heard of these being used in these series but no where else quite weirdly. Its an interesting idea though, shorten the droop to get the rear inside wheel off the ground easier and rotate the car easier. It is usually found on off-roaders, not much info on it being used for track/race cars though.
Trs sell these https://www.trs-motorsport.com/suspension-limiting-strap.html, I think you could tie it down from the rear damper top mount bolt and the damper to hub bolt. It's adjustable as well so I was wondering if you could use it as a tuning tool. So.... if the damper is say 20 inches long fully extended and and 17 inches long when it hits the bump stop and 19 inches long when its on level ground, that means 1 inch is for droop. So you could tighten up the slack on the strap at full droop and then mark points on the strap at points that equal certain lengths of the damper, like mark a line at 1 inch of droop, half an inch of droop and 0 droop. So might stick it at full droop for the road and then quickly adjust to 0.5 inch at the track for example? Just a theory at the moment but again something to tinker with later in the year.
When I stuck the bilstein stuff back, I lowered the subframe a little to get it into position easier, I realised there is a fair bit of forward-rear movement of the subframe when its loose. So I moved it as far forward as possible and the front hubs are definitely more forward, I wish I measured it before and after but it was quite noticeable when under the car the difference in position. The more forward the hub is of the upper damper mounting location means the more positive caster we get, so maybe a wee freebie in terms of performance. Maybe they're meant to be that far forward though and mine was just way too far back for whatever reason so its now just "correct". You can see how much more forward the subframe has gone here, a good couple of mm:
pudding:
Haha, it's just decades of persevering with a dumb layout regarding 911s :grin: I haven't driven any modern porkers, but I did drive a mate's 993 3.6 and that thing was glued to the road. They have a very unique feel. I can see why people like them :happy2:
It did always puzzle me about how people adjust camber plates, and it seems you have the answer :happy2:
If you're planning on fitting 4 pots to those Audi hubs, you might be OK with just the mass of bigger discs to dissipate heat, but nice plan looking into ducting. Even with the monster brakes BTCC cars use, they still have ducting, so it must be effective :happy2:
Are you going full TT with the wishbones and steering rack? That would be a great setup for roll center correction and improved steering :happy2:
Hopefully not too much wheel poke as MK5 arches aren't particularly generous!
Not seen those droop straps before. Interesting! Would limiting the droop not also limit the damper's rebound travel? Then again, coilovers tend to have less travel anyway so it might work well in practice :happy2:
Yeah there's a lot of slack in the subframe mounting holes! I didn't even get half a degree extra caster from SuperPro's claimed +1 degree console bushes :grin: I reckon you'd have to shunt the struts forward about 10mm to get a degree more, which the console bushes aren't even close to. That would be a good move if easily achievable :happy2:
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