I bought back my old mk5

[christii]

I took the Golf to a track day last Sunday at Kirkistown, which went ok. I had fun but the car wasn’t without its issues, even though I was taking it reasonably easy.

The clutch is doing this thing where it sticks halfway when coming up, only on right hand turns. Which isn’t great for a clockwise circuit. I know what the issue is, I think.
The output shaft in these gearboxes start to get play in them. There is a shim kit which can take the play out. I’ve tried fitting the kit but there isn’t enough play in the shaft to fit the shim. So I’ve ordered some skinnier shims to try.
Also the car started to get hot. The needle crept up 3/4 a couple of times. A cool down lap brought it back down again.
Then on the last session I was getting big vibrations on braking. So I’m worried I’ve warped the discs.

Then the biggest problem was discovered today when it had its post track day oil change. 2 random bits of metal were found in the oil.
I honestly have the worst luck with cars! Although maybe tracking a highly tuned car with over 100k miles on the clock wasn’t the greatest idea.
Anyway, the current plan is to just keep driving it, and if the engine does eventually give up. Then go find a used Golf R engine. 

[Pudding]

What colour/size are the metal bits?  You're not the only one with bad luck    They do keep soldiering on regardless though 

There's a company on Facebook that does turn-key MK7 R engine conversions, otherwise it'll have to be a Golf 6 R/ED35/Scirocco R/S3 engine for easier compatibility.

If you can't get standard issue shims in the gearbox, it doesn't need shimming. You can't take up all the slack unfortunately as VW used plain roller bearings + circlip instead of the more usual taper bearings for some bizarre reason    Another cause of a sticky clutch pedal is crank walk, but hopefully it's just the gearbox, or master/slave cylinders on their way out.  Could even just need a bleed, or the friction disc is binding on the input shaft.

[christii]

What colour/size are the metal bits?  You're not the only one with bad luck    They do keep soldiering on regardless though 

There's a company on Facebook that does turn-key MK7 R engine conversions, otherwise it'll have to be a Golf 6 R/ED35/Scirocco R/S3 engine for easier compatibility.

If you can't get standard issue shims in the gearbox, it doesn't need shimming. You can't take up all the slack unfortunately as VW used plain roller bearings + circlip instead of the more usual taper bearings for some bizarre reason    Another cause of a sticky clutch pedal is crank walk, but hopefully it's just the gearbox, or master/slave cylinders on their way out.  Could even just need a bleed, or the friction disc is binding on the input shaft.

Crank walk? I have no idea what that is but it can’t be good! The cars got a brand new clutch, flywheel, master and slave cylinder. The gear changes aren’t the smoothest and on the track day, I struggled to get into 4th gear a couple of times.

[christii]

Ok, did a bit of Googling. Crankwalk might be a reality. And those bits of metal might be the left over of a thrust bearing.
If it is “crankwalk”, is it fixable or game over?

[Clarkj93]

I've been frustrated with the issues my recent track day has brought up but fairplay you definitely win with clumps of metal in the oil pan!

Someone may know better but my understanding when you have crank walk it's either a rebuild or expensive enough repair you may as well do a rebuild while you're there.

[christii]

I've been frustrated with the issues my recent track day has brought up but fairplay you definitely win with clumps of metal in the oil pan!

Someone may know better but my understanding when you have crank walk it's either a rebuild or expensive enough repair you may as well do a rebuild while you're there.

Thanks. I think the plan is no more track days until I get it fixed. I have a GR Yaris coming in August/September time. So hopefully the Golf can stay alive until it gets here. Then I’ll put it in storage until I can afford the rebuild or replacement engine.

Unfortunately there’s no decent specialist over here in Northern Ireland. So I think Decimal Tenths in Newcastle might be the place to take it to. It’s only a 3 drive from Stranraer. And after watching their you tube channel, they seem to know what their doing.

[Pudding]

Usually you just need a new thrust bearing if it is indeed the problem. It is unfortunately an engine out job (unless they fancy dropping the crank in situ), so it might make more sense to put a better engine back in!  Out with the old, in with the new 

I think I win the woes competition with 120psi compression readings across all 4. Should be 175-200!  Well I suppose it is at least consistently sh1t across the whole bank 

[christii]

Usually you just need a new thrust bearing if it is indeed the problem. It is unfortunately an engine out job (unless they fancy dropping the crank in situ), so it might make more sense to put a better engine back in!  Out with the old, in with the new 

I think I win the woes competition with 120psi compression readings across all 4. Should be 175-200!  Well I suppose it is at least consistently sh1t across the whole bank 

I agree that a new improved engine would be great, but it’s gonna be expensive to buy, plus you don’t know what you’re getting. It might come with a bunch of new issues. I’ve also spent serious money on the engine already, I wouldn’t have to worry about swapping the parts over or replacing them if they don’t fit. (Depending on what engine I went for).
I’ll try the new skinnier shims when they arrive, I might as well since their on the way.
And if they don’t fix the gear change and clutch issue (I’m pretty sure they won’t now) then I’ll come up with a game plan.

[Pudding]

Yup. A K04 'long block' (no turbo or ancillaries) engine from VW/TPS is about £4K, and I imagine the K03 GTI engine will be around the same.  At least buying new from the manufacturer guarantees a successful install and life span, unlike a lot of rebuilds or used engines.

So if you replace the turbo, clutch, flywheel, injectors etc at the same time, you're in for £6-7K to do it properly.  Hence why so many GTIs end up in the bin when their original engines let go.

That kind of money opens up the doors to newer, more powerful engines, but with the wiring and other compatibility hurdles to overcome, you're in for the same amount, or more!

It's a tricky one!

[Clarkj93]

If mine went first thing I'd do is probably call a nationally known specialist like decimal tenths or aks tuning as they may have something on a shelf to go and you know it would be checked over thoroughly not some junk that a breaker might try to flog. Also any race teams that's specialise in tfsi powered cars as they will should have something spare ready to go if one of theirs or their customers tfsi engine dies on or near a race weekend so they don't miss out on the races, TRS, Retro Resus and Jabba sport are a few, again they won't want junk they'll make sure it's good and able to take abuse.

If not I imagine they'll known someone or would source one and send it over on a pallet for a reasonable fee.

[Pudding]

VAG Technic and REPerformance are worth a shout as well.  The latter built a 1000hp engine for EcoTune's 8 second RS3 drag car    I think that engine has had over 600 dyno pulls and done countless 1/4 miles, and it's still in one piece 

The trouble with modern VAG engines is once they come apart, unless everything is spotless and within tolerance, they're pretty much junk.  Hence why I would only get a crate motor from VW if I was to do a replacement, rather than repairing the original one.  The only time I would entertain a rebuild is if it was a 'built' (or fully forged as the kids say) motor from the aforementioned specialists, as all the pistons, rods etc are uprated anyway.

[christii]

Thanks guys for the advice. I think a new engine is too much of an investment. A new engine is a good bit more than I paid for the car!
How much do think an engine rebuild from one of the top guys would cost? And worst case scenario, imagine my engine is in bad shape.

[Pudding]

Holy metal crumbs batman, I've just seen the carnage pics.  They look suspiciously like the thrust bearing remains we were talking about to me, which might explain the gear engagement issues, aka, crank walk.

The thrust bearing on these engines is a terrible design, basically only half a bearing compared to the usual standard.  I pity the later EA113 engines with the clutch down to start the engine nonsense. No oil pressure on the bearing whilst cranking.....what the frick were VW thinking 

As for a rebuild/new engine. I doubt the cylinders or top end have suffered, you probably just need a new thrust bearing, which is like 40 quid, but the labour to replace it is 4 figures. Engine out job.

Golf GTIs were never meant to do track work.  Too much oil surge in the corners and not enough preventative measures to safeguard the engine against it.  Later Golfs, MK7 and on, are even worse for it. Clouds of blue smoke on track days due to oil surge having nowhere to go but up through the PCV or blowing out the rear crank seal.

I admire you chaps who track GTIs but honestly, I would stick the GTI to road duties only and buy a second car for track work, something designed for it like a Caterham.