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Will engine oil get up to temp even though coolant isn't?

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LC5F:
Mine had a bad thermostat when I first had it - the ECU will assume your engine hasn't warmed up and will be dumping extra fuel in - cold starting & city driving, mine was drinking petrol down to 4/4.5 miles per litre.
Thermostat is only awkward to change because of tight access - BTW, I highly recommend changing the temperature sensor at the same time, you don't want to be going back in there any time soon.

colesey:
My experience of replacing an old wonky thermostat is in line with what others are saying above. The car warms up quicker - both temperature gauge and heater system - and delivers better economy. I even got 44mpg on a run to Heathrow to collect my daughter last summer! As it’s a ball-ache of a job, best do together with other work (cambelt / water pump for me) and change that temperature sensor at the same time.

probedb:
Mine takes a little while to warm up but is solid once it gets to 90C. It recently occurred to me that I knocked out the pre-cat, the pre-cat will help the engine warm up quicker so I've put mine down to that since the thermostat is relatively new.

Clarkj93:
I've noticed from logs that as soon as it says 90 on the needle the temp sensor is actually reading less than 80 and needs a few extra minutes. As a rule of thumb I've started waiting 5 minutes after it hits 90 now to make sure coolant and oil are a good temp before booting hard.

pudding:
Yup. 83 is the actual cruising temperature once warmed up. 90 on the dash is just the de-panic number to keep it in the middle for people who like things in the middle.

Similarly, when the temp goes over 90 and just prior to stage 1 fans kicking in (around 105 deg C), it's also sat at 90 degrees  :grin:

Bashing out the pre-cat has no bearing on warm up temperatures.  The default cat warm up mode (double injector pulses) remains, even when remapped and/or cats bashed out. The engine is none the wiser, which is annoying as tuners could easily turn that off to save some fuel.

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