Timing chain replacement question

[pudding]

Yep, if 93 is blank, the ECU has no idea where the cam is in relation to crank rotation......and then it's a big portion of limp mode for you, sir. With ketchup.

It's time to start over I'm afraid.  Start at the cambelt end and confirm the timing is correct. The crank and cam sprockets both have to be bob on.  Spin by crank 4 times by hand and if the marks line up again, you can move onto the chain end.

The issue at the chain end is there's an element of chance to it.  Sometimes, after you have located the VVT's alignment pin onto the exhaust cam, the inlet cam will simply fall into place with the right chain tension/roller count between the two sprockets.

But on other times, the inlet cam sprocket is slightly off and needs tweaking a few degrees to get it into the right chain link, but most folk just fit it into what ever chain link goes on, which is usually 1 tooth off.

It depends how well the cams are locked into place.  Most of the locking tools are sh1te, but they have an element of slack in them (including the VW one) to allow said adjustment mentioned above, and VW sell a tool for that as well...... it's handle that slots into the vacuum pump notch on the inlet cam, allowing you tweak the cam a few degrees.

[skkane]

Got it done today. 91 sits at 28kw, no more diesel noise, only the hfpf tap tap can be heard (guessing that's the hpfp anyway). Seems to pull harder also but weather out here was pretty crap with 0C and bad rain, no traction what so ever. Gonna have it dyno'd again next week and see how much she does. 

Thanks for all the tips!

[skkane]

42 horses that bad timing ate

[pudding]

 

You got there in the end!  Timing makes a massive difference to the power as all that lovely boost is basically leaking away through poorly timed valves!

[skkane]

Yup, couldn't really test it out as the weather out here is really crap with snow and sludge, no traction anywhere... but it does feel to pull harder and is smoother running in general.

I also had something really weird just happen earlier, first time it happened also. I was pulling away and gave it around half throttle from like 2k revs and the car started "surging", "lurching" badly, the dv kept making that woosh sound over and over (the car has a spacer with some holes in it, guess that's what makes that woosh sound when discharging part of the boost in the air). It felt really violent, nearly crapped my pants.   

On WOT it doesn't do it or if I'm in manual mode and give it steady gas from 3k+ rpm. My first thoughts was that oh how nice, I may need new clutches or a new dsg box but after researching a bit I heard it can be caused by the DV not holding boost. Not sure on what revision it currently has, I will check it out a bit later. Could it be from that Spacer thing? I like the sound it makes (sounds like a rally car when I lift off at 3k rpm doing that whistle type noise) but many people told me to get rid of it as it can cause leaks and make the car run badly. I will try it with it off after I see what Rev DV it has. I heard good things about that GFB DV+ so may give that a go and get rid of the spacer. Would be a cheap fix vs dsg clutch pack and what not, that would suck. Car shifts great though.

And one more thing, sometimes when the car sits for a while and I put it in reverse to get going it will show R in the dash as normal but upon lifting my foot of the brake the car just sits there. It's really random, had it happen like 3 times so far in ~5k KMs. If I give it gas to try to force it to go it tries to but the engine just dies. Could it be the mechatronic or bad clutches? Never does it in D, only in R.

Just had a look. My DV is a revision D. Should I order the G one? Heard D's lose boost or something and are not really good for remapped cars.

[pudding]

Yeah I'd get rid of that spacer.  Sounds like it's one of those vent to atmosphere + recirculate specials.  I would just put a brand new standard Revision G DV back on.  There shouldn't be any chuffing noises at all, especially on part throttle.

It could be remapped.  Best way to check is with VCDS and see what the flash count is, which is under "Advanced ID".  It should be zero if it's standard.

I'm no DSG expert but it does sound like a lazy solenoid to me.  Same thing happens on slush box autos and generally a good service and a solenoid and seal kit is needed to get things ship shape again, but not sure what the process is on DSGs as I think the mechatronic pack is only sold as one big unit.

I keep hearing that about Revision Ds but I never saw that personally on my old ED30.  If anything it seemed to pull better with a Rev D!

[skkane]

BTW, forgot to ask From those 3 pics I posted on the 1st page, how do you reckon my cam lobe looks?

I didn't know when I had it done that it can "wear out" and don't really trust it. Guy who fixed my chain issue said he changed the cam follower as it looked like 10k kms but it only had like 2k on it. I'm getting paranoid that my inlet cam is fkd but can't really tell from those photos I took and not really keen to take that cover apart to have another look.

I'll be checking this "new" cam follower soon and see what the wear is like, i've done like 2k kms since the chain was adjusted properly. I'll try to look thru the opening with it out to check the lobe but I will only see 1 side out of 3.

Getting bad fuel cuts and limp mode in the mid range. Changed LPFP and that HPFP sensor (I already had the latest revision so more money thrown out the window for nothing). The HPFP is stock and I'm either guessing that could be the culprit or if the cam follower is really worn out I might need a new inlet cam. Getting the P310B / P0087 stuff after it does the fuel cut / limp. Car was pulling fine everywhere when the timing was off and it was only making 260hp... now with 308hp it seems dangerous as fk, if you try to overtake and it does it you can get your ass wasted, so I'm mainly cruising like an old lady keeping it below 2500 rpm. It sort of runs good for the first 15-20 mins and can go WOT but as soon as things heating up I always get cuts past 3000 RPM.

Anyway to tell which cylinder head part no I have without getting the top cover open? Is there a code anywhere to be seen? I have no idea if it has a BYD head with BYD camshafts or the CDL head with CDL cams... no idea wtf the prev owner did but he said the cylinder head was "rebuilt" or "swapped". To what only God knows and he's been telling one lie after another and I can't trust anything coming out of his mouth.

Found some better pics of the lobe and uploaded them here in high res -> https://imgur.com/a/8UYdkvT  needs right click open in tab :) Looks okish to me I guess?

Also forgot to ask you, did you switch to the roller cam follower kit? How was it?

[skkane]

Well. Checked the cam follower, it looks like new, almost 2000 kms on it. Cam lobe looks ok also, felt it with my fingernail and i couldn't sense any scratches, HPFP piston looked alright also... So guess it's the HPFP after all not keeping up with the stage2 requirements of the map and cutting out like a 






It was easy enough taking it out, minus the bottom screw which connects the fuel pipe but I had a massive fail when putting it back on. Guess I didn't tighter the bottom screw enough and ended up with Niagara Falls    I am still laughing like an idiot, lmfao.

Waiting for mechanic friend to come save my ass