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[SOLVED] Low oil pressure at idle

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OllieVRS:
EDIT 23/05/2023: The low oil pressure light I got in this post was likely just from hard cornering with a below average oil level while on track. By pure coincidence I later discover there is actually something mechanical causing insufficient oil pressure, but only at idle RPMs.



^new suspension setup, H&R 45-50mm Ultra Lows on OEM shocks, wheels are 18" Bola B1s

Planning on doing my first track day ever in the Octy.

It's only a half day on the track so two and a half hours, and I'm not planning on pushing her too hard as I've no experience of driving on a track other than go karting.

I'll change the oil before hand, is it necessary to change it after too? The Millers CFS 5W40 NT+ is €81 for 5L so don't want to throw that money down the drain  :sick:

Current setup, appreciate any and all feedback on this  :smiley::

Brakes are all pretty much factory and had all pads and discs replaced 10k kilometers ago. They're still squeaky as a barstewards though, and of the rear calipers leave more brake dust that the other 3, but isn't seized or anything like that. Also brake fluid was inspected by the garage then and deemed to be fine.

Suspension is now on lowering springs and OEM shocks with new top mounts, and all the bushings are in decent condition. I'll get an alignment before the track day too.

Tyres are Eagle F1 Asym 6s, and only have a few thousand kms on them.

Engine's got a RamAir standard size CAI and is running a 95RON-tuned remap, and oil pump still has an active balance shaft. Rev G DV.

As for octane booster, on UK track days you guys are obviously running 99, but are you running any octane booster on top of that?

Cheers!

gj124:
Don't overthink it, no need to change oil afterwards. Recently serviced with decent tyres and new brakes is a good start :smiley: Maybe take it easy as it's your first time and come in after a few laps to let the brakes and tyres cool down. If anything fails, just upgrade it for next time!

Clarkj93:
Not familiar with the circuits in IE but do some research of general flow and lines before hand if possible via YouTube and preferably from experienced drivers during races etc.

Your oil is good mate, that's what I use too. I change it every 2 FULL track days which some would consider very often so you're good.

Remember no road without extensive modification is well suited to the track so you'll notice some weaknesses:
- The good year tyres will roll over the sidewall a little due to the sidewall being soft for road use and the stock camber being low with soft rubber bushes.
- The suspension will feel soft and produce a lot of roll
- The brakes will overheat if pushed for too long.

None of these are big issues to worry about except the brakes, some race fluid would be ideal and keeping stints to under 15 minutes a time and you'll be OK.

No not really seen many people use octane boosters really.

OllieVRS:
Cheers for the replies and advice lads  :happy2:

Also as for 'circuits' in IE, the depressing reality is that it's just 'circuit'. In the Republic of Ireland the literally one race track, Mondello Park.

I'll ask for maximum front negative camber when I get my alignment done as there's still 5mm of tyre poke on the new springs, so that should help reduce sidewall roll on the Good Years.

As for racing brake fluid, I'll look into getting it changed, just need to find a garage that is willing to source it and fit it for me as I'm not too comfortable with changing such a safety-critical component myself with no experience of working on brakes.

What would happen if I stuck to OEM brake fluid and it overheated, would there be a dramatic explosion under the bonnet or would the brake pedal just go soft?

The planned track day is on Easter Monday, so I've got plenty of time to prepare in advance, so further advice is still appreciated  :smiley:

Thanks!

Clarkj93:
Oh that's annoying. I thought you guys would have more than just 1.

The camber won't be adjustable unless you have adjustable top mounts/adjustable ball joints/adjustable bushes etc. But if the car is lower it may give you a little extra neg camber anyway.

Ate's race fluid is cheap and decent. Think Murray motorsport is a motorsport retailer in Republic of Ireland? They'll have a range of race fluids, just pick something that has a boiling point of at least 280 degrees Celsius dry.

You can use oem yes, it has a low boiling point so when it hits that the fluid develops air bubbles which means you may develop a dead spot/spongy pedal. The race fluid stuff will have a "wet" rating too which means once its been boiled it can still withstand X temperature which is another advantage over em stuff.

Personally I would change the fluid and keep stints to under 15 mins and you'll have a worry free day.

Tyres are a real contributor to brake temps too, so your road tyres shouldn't push them beyond the limit with short stints. If you went for a stickier tyre you ought to look at some better pads/cooling.

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