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Wheels rubbing after fitting new coilovers.

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Clarkj93:
Application makes a difference too. I'm on uprated ARB's also but mines on sticky tyres and gets used on track so you will naturally have a lot more compression which means more chance of rubbing. My solution is more drastic but is a guaranteed fix, I'm not so worried about cutting and roughing bits up on mine though so it was fine for me. Il end up going wider again at some point and probably have to cut the wheel arches by an inch and get some extensions attached to the wings.

Marticus:

--- Quote from: Clarkj93 on May 14, 2023, 08:16:41 pm ---Application makes a difference too. I'm on uprated ARB's also but mines on sticky tyres and gets used on track so you will naturally have a lot more compression which means more chance of rubbing. My solution is more drastic but is a guaranteed fix, I'm not so worried about cutting and roughing bits up on mine though so it was fine for me. Il end up going wider again at some point and probably have to cut the wheel arches by an inch and get some extensions attached to the wings.

--- End quote ---

Yep absolutely makes sense, I guess is always going to be a matter of finding a balance between different components.

I think I was just surprised because my coilovers are maxed height so have another 80mm of downwards adjustment, and I was wondering wtf the point of all the extra adjustment is if I can't even have them at max height without rubbing  :grin:32  :thinking: combined with seeing a lot of very low golf's left me wondering if I was going wrong somewhere or I was missing something.

You guys have put my mind at ease at least, and I know where to start now.

Thanks again!

breeze:
Factory wheels have a 51mm offset. So 45mm means the wheel would be 6mm further out if the same width. In addition, you have half an inch of extra width, which is 12.7mm. So in total the wheel rim is 18.7mm further out. I am assuming your are not running spacers. Tyre is wider than the wheel, but obviously the above means that the tyre will be further out too, even if the same width.

One of the things you can try is loosening the three top mount bolts and pushing the top of the strut inwards. That will reduce camber and have the effect of tucking the top of the wheel further in. Nowhere near as good as adjustable top mounts but it is free and something you can try immediately. You might be able to do that by bending the rain tray but I removed the wiper arms when I did it.


breeze:
On ride height, just remember that the wheel does move in an arc. That means lower cars automatically increase their static camber.

So when you compare to a car running lower ride height than you their cars will generally be tucked into the arch a little better.

ROH ECHT:

--- Quote from: Marticus on May 14, 2023, 07:28:13 pm ---

Thanks for the help!

Man this is what's confusing me you are much lower than me and Clarkj93, I guess the uprated ARBs make a lot of difference! Do you know what camber you're running?

I'm going in for the fender screw mod and maybe the alignment will pick up some weirdness like you had. And I'll go from there then.

Thanks!

--- End quote ---
Mine when aligned is always just put to spec. Nothing is done to increase camber. Yes, the ARBs do help. I first only added the rear ARB after I lowered it, along with pushing those screws and their tabs upward. Plus the centering of the rear subframe; for mine weirdly being off-center. I later added the front ARB; just because it felt off, like a struggle going on between the front and rear, when cornering. Although I never heard any rubbing after all of this, I did replace the wheel arch liners 2 or 3 years ago. And the tires did nearly wear through a small portion of the outer edge of the rear felt liners (upper-center area), but there was no contact marks made on any metal.

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