All Things Mk5 > Mk5 General Area
Cam Shaft Adjuster Oil Seals
RussH:
I'm planning on changing the 3 oil seals in the variable valve timing control module.
I've tried searching the forum, YouTube and Google but no luck in finding a "how to" guide. Maybe I'm just using the wrong key words or just being dumb:-)
Could someone point me in the right direction please?
Thanks
OllieVRS:
--- Quote from: RussH on July 02, 2023, 07:01:55 pm ---I'm planning on changing the 3 oil seals in the variable valve timing control module.
I've tried searching the forum, YouTube and Google but no luck in finding a "how to" guide. Maybe I'm just using the wrong key words or just being dumb:-)
Could someone point me in the right direction please?
Thanks
--- End quote ---
If you're talking about the 3 plastic rings inside the cam chain housing, known as oil control rings, they're fairly simple [once you've taken the cam chain housing off]. They're plastic rings that can be pried off with a pick, as they have a break in them that allows them to be stretched apart slightly. You may have to break the old ones off if they're too brittle to be stretched.
Here's a video showing multiple jobs relating to timing, go to 17:02 to see him put an oil control ring on:
If you want a guide how to get the cam chain housing off, you can follow this guide: https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=106158.0
Here's my control rings, they were all intact. Note that they're in the cam chain housing (the cover of the cam chain) rather than inside the cam chain mechanism or VVT phaser. I also recommend replacing that cam chain housing gasket while you're in there.
Normally people investigate these when they have a problem with their idle RPMs, what is your reason for wanting to replace them? Or is it a preventative job?
RussH:
Thanks for the great reply!
I'm trying to track down a top end rattle. Which I thought I was getting close to fixing. See below a copy and paste from a previous post.
"Well I've made some progress!!
Using measuring block 93. When it's cold (no noise) the spec. is 28 degrees KW. Actual is rock solid at 27.5 to 28KW.
Once it warms up the actual starts to move between 24 and 28degrees KW. As it drops to 24-25KW this corresponds directly with the noise.
So. Could this be the oil seals in the variable cam timing module? As the oil thins (with temperature) this causes the instability/variation between 24 and 28?"
I subsequently removed and cleaned the oil control solenoid which actually fixed it! But only for a short time. So I'm pretty convinced that it's something to do with the cam timing unit/oil supply. Hence my next step to replace the oil seals.
I've replaced the hpfp and cam follower.
OllieVRS:
--- Quote from: RussH on July 03, 2023, 08:12:31 am ---Thanks for the great reply!
I'm trying to track down a top end rattle. Which I thought I was getting close to fixing. See below a copy and paste from a previous post.
"Well I've made some progress!!
Using measuring block 93. When it's cold (no noise) the spec. is 28 degrees KW. Actual is rock solid at 27.5 to 28KW.
Once it warms up the actual starts to move between 24 and 28degrees KW. As it drops to 24-25KW this corresponds directly with the noise.
So. Could this be the oil seals in the variable cam timing module? As the oil thins (with temperature) this causes the instability/variation between 24 and 28?"
I subsequently removed and cleaned the oil control solenoid which actually fixed it! But only for a short time. So I'm pretty convinced that it's something to do with the cam timing unit/oil supply. Hence my next step to replace the oil seals.
I've replaced the hpfp and cam follower.
--- End quote ---
Those are the specs from Block 91, where it shows the spec. and act., which are volatile and change with RPMs. Block 93 is usually a static adjustment angle, that changes maybe once as the engine warms up.
What are you getting on Block 93? That should give you a good idea of the state of the cam chain. New is below 0 to -2KW, Used is -2 to -4KW, Overdue is -4 to -6KW. -6KW and above is the danger zone. Mine was a little noisy around -5/-6KW, so I replaced it as a precaution. And good thing I did because the tensioner's plastic guide had already started to disintegrate.
If your idle RPMs are stable I would have doubts to being the control rings, but I'm no expert, so don't take my word for it. Do you have any errors codes logged on VCDS?
RussH:
Thanks again for the reply. I really appreciate your time! I have been chasing this, on and off, for ages now. It's spoiling a brilliant car (an unmolested 80k mile Edition 30).
Attached below are the VCDS results.
Cam chain seems fine. Rock solid at -2kw.
The noise is intermittent, when the engine is warm and only at idle. Lift the rev's to just over 1,000 and it disappears.
On measuring block 91 the calculated and actual values start off at 28. Then the actual starts to fluctuate between 24 and 28. As it drops to 24/25 the noise appears. It then recovers to 28 and the noise disappears.
So I'm now on a process of elimination. Oil seals first. Then maybe a new second hand control module. Then I'm lost!
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