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Newbie alert
Saint Steve:
--- Quote from: wheels-inmotion on August 03, 2010, 08:17:39 pm ---Excellent..... What guys and girls need to understand is if the car is modified you cannot use the OEM data? If done it essentially "de-tunes" the modification. Most domestic calibrations on the modified car borders the realm of tyre preservation, in truth there are two arenas "preservation and performance", finding the one in the middle is the holy grail of chassis calibration.
--- End quote ---
Does this apply for a car running more power with std suspention setup, or do you mean, if its lowered, different Rim dimensions etc etc?
Useful info :happy2:
wheels-inmotion:
What's the point of more power if the car cannot handle the twisties. If the intention is drag then happy days but if it's fast road hitting the load peddle then braking like a Micra owner on a Sunday drive "corner in" belays the point.
There's loads to explain, maybe i should open another thread but by design the cars chassis has a frequency and believe it or not it's tuned to our natural frequency, when the car is modified it needs to be calibrated to suit the owner and his/her intentions, in addition the tyre wear factor is examined......
My natural frequency is quite low so i would have problems driving a car like the Evo X, whereas someone like Button would say it handles like a bit of a donkey, this is not because he is a F1 driver, it's because he can cope with much more input "yaw" and he finds the car unresponsive.
The domestic car is setup to understeer, it's chassis positions encompass the boy/girl racer and grandma, it's in the manufacturers interest the car has a global inert handling package, some would argue the HP but think about it the HP is "available power" not handling, push that to the limit because you want to feel the HP and you get it wrong the car understeers.
Changing the chassis positions changes the tyres saturation limits..... your thinking WTF is he on about now?... Well that's another topic methinks.
Saint Steve:
:happy2:
Another thread i feel would be as you say worth doing.
We've not had an in depth review on Setups to do with suspention Geometrys etc on here, so would be worth a good topic to Sticky.
Look foward to reading any input :happy2:
wheels-inmotion:
Any idea where this should go?... The topic title is "chassis dynamics the real explanation". The reason i say chassis dynamics is this encompasses the actual chassis and the suspension dynamics, with a smattering of areodynamics.
Andy:
--- Quote from: wheels-inmotion on August 03, 2010, 09:03:22 pm ---What's the point of more power if the car cannot handle the twisties. If the intention is drag then happy days but if it's fast road hitting the load peddle then braking like a Micra owner on a Sunday drive "corner in" belays the point.
There's loads to explain, maybe i should open another thread but by design the cars chassis has a frequency and believe it or not it's tuned to our natural frequency, when the car is modified it needs to be calibrated to suit the owner and his/her intentions, in addition the tyre wear factor is examined......
My natural frequency is quite low so i would have problems driving a car like the Evo X, whereas someone like Button would say it handles like a bit of a donkey, this is not because he is a F1 driver, it's because he can cope with much more input "yaw" and he finds the car unresponsive.
The domestic car is setup to understeer, it's chassis positions encompass the boy/girl racer and grandma, it's in the manufacturers interest the car has a global inert handling package, some would argue the HP but think about it the HP is "available power" not handling, push that to the limit because you want to feel the HP and you get it wrong the car understeers.
Changing the chassis positions changes the tyres saturation limits..... your thinking WTF is he on about now?... Well that's another topic methinks.
--- End quote ---
when i worked at my first garage he used to race a rally car and its the first thing he told me is if your buildind a car for the track get the handleing right first,the car we build first season was getting the chassie and handling right plus the brakes,i followed some of what you put :signLOL:
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