All Things Mk5 > Performance Modifications

Tyre pressures

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the bruce:
32 - 34 psi cold will be best for street use.
If on track with stiffer tyres some use 30 psi warm.

Carrera2RS:
I am running 36 F&R warm, I will try dropping a PSI. This was better than 32 cold.

My set up is Nuespeed 25mmF and R bars, soft front, hard rear. Ride heights 335F 320R with Bilstein PSS9 3F, 4R, WALK, TD 8x18's I am still experimenting, this is good but not great. I want better turn in and it still feels slightly front heavy, good balance in corner. Good compliance but a little fidgety. I am a fussy bugger with suspension settings and feel.

Wondering about camber plates. I am running 0.5 degree neg camber at the front, probably need 1-1.5 ? its 1.5 neg at the rear.

the bruce:
Just 0.5° (= 0°30'), are you sure ???
With a height of 335 mm front a Golf normaly has about 1° negative.

If 0.5° - hat's less than good. First try setting the FARB on 'hard' as well.
I know the often told advice, but I made some experiences against the
''old rules''.
Even much better you fit TT lower arms for more camber.
You'll get 1°30 - 2°00' with them.


ps:
320 mm rear is quite low. Be careful when cornering hard if you hit a bump
- some oversteer may occur (when the damper touches the bump stop).

Carrera2RS:
Bruce, I do agree with the camber.

The four wheel alignment figs suggest -0.5 deg. the front is down some 25mm, the back 40mm. I am thinking of running 340/325, the 15mm difference puts the sill closer to flat and less nose down. I prefer the balance and feel with a full tank which is some 3-4mm lower at the rear. Drive out of a filling station after putting 50L in and it feel more planted and neutral (I know there is some 40kg added in the right place !).

WIth prior cars I have found more feel with toe at 0 deg, or less toe in than stock (This is for rear wheel drive through) and 1.5 deg of neg. 2+ and it becomes too camber sensitive and you get the impressiont that the contact patch is wandering over surfaces. I am unfamiliar with front wheel drive.

I also feel that the car is off on the corners (it hasnt been corner weighted), it 'feels' like the front right and rear left is taking more of the weight with how it folds into corners.

I was also wondering what the target caster might be with a WALK and if fitting top mounts and adding a little more positive might help feel and weight to the steering.

I think you are right with the front ARB it feels as though the chassis has to pick up a little slack as it turnsn and loads up at the front, if it dials in a little more understeer when loaded I get the impression on the road the better turn and placement will outweigh any ultimate balance issues and improve the feel and drive.

Are TT bottom arms expensive new ? Or easy to find secondhand ?

I am also thinking that a big brake kit to improve the braking and unsprung weight could be a worthwhile investment. Are the TT arms more about camber and less about unsprung or both ?

the bruce:
TT arms are about 3 kg each, so same as (non adjustable) S3 arms and similar to the steel tin ones the smaller Golfs have.
Cast steel arms of most GTI and R32 are double the weight. The swivels do even more in weight.

TT and S3 arms are forged aluminium alloy. TT and S3 swivels are aluminum as well, but made in an innovative processs called ''Cobapress''.

One more advantage of the TT- and S3 arms is the stiffer rear bush (no matter if you swap for a WALK instead).
But the big difference of the TT arms is camber adjustability !!

Similar camber front and rear is absolutely necessary to get neutral cornering.

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