All Things Mk5 > Performance Modifications
Warped front discs with R32/S3 setup
QD MBE:
The solution is to buy a set of discs for track use, and only use them with your track pads, and a set of road discs, and use them only with road pads.
Remove them after the track, with the pads, store them together marked up as to which side, and which pad they are so you can refit them in exactly the same orientation.
as said above, you have cross contaminated discs in my opinion.
Carrera2RS:
I had a similar exercise with an AP kit after 3 years of trouble free running with DS11 Ferodo's and brand new discs on am M5. All great 500 miles later bad judder, then ridiculous judder I ......
Had everything dialled for true and wear, replaced all front bushes anyway, refaced disc, spoke to AP, ran different pads, replaced the AP's again. Had the the discs inspected and refaced. Eventually I had the calipers stripped and all seals replaced. One piston was a little slow/sticky.
After 3m and well over £1k, it seemed to go away following rebuilding calipers. My guess is the pad build up was because of the sticky piston allowing the disc to drag a little on the pad and this allowed pad deposits. Never had it before or since. Currently running VWR's with 2500's no judder but only completed 150 miles since fitting
Tfsi_Mike:
Little off topic so PM reply if you want. Im interested in what performance hardware you have you have on your APR St2+ :happy2:
As above a set of track discs and pads and a set of road discs and pads is a good routine! Probably savea few quid in the long run too :happy2:
lamas:
--- Quote from: the bruce on September 02, 2011, 08:13:56 pm ---Just my thoughts:
- wheel bolts fastened too strong (first by hand, then 120 Nm)
- warped hubs
- pad deposits on disc surface after braking to zero speed
Worn bushes and/or bearings just amplify existing vibrations.
:ashamed:
--- End quote ---
Related to warped hubs or discs, which is the max. inch or mm of tolerance with the dial gauge?
lamas:
--- Quote from: john_o on September 02, 2011, 11:03:57 pm ---Hi,
have you got any pictures of the discs youve replaced?
Did you actually prove they were warped(dial out guage), or was it just the vibration that makes you think they are warped?
Have the brakes worked ok since fitted? have they warped from day one?
is it both front discs?
--- End quote ---
In fact, I haven't checked it with the gauge... Each time I have put new discs in, they have worked well... this makes me think that the issue is related to brakes and not the chasis (hubs, bearings, etc).
--- Quote from: Top Cat on September 02, 2011, 11:16:54 pm ---I am with Beddie, it will just be contaminated disc's, in my experience they only way to cure it properly is getting them skimmed. It is possible to drive through the vibration and try and clean them that way but it takes some doing. I fitted a B5 RS 4 front brake kit to mine, worked fine then changed the pads for a track day and followed the bedding in procedure to the letter. Drove all the way to germany with the brakes working fine got near the Nurburgring and they started to vibrate really bad Took the wheels off twice and cleaned the discs, also drove the hell out of it with lots of heavy braking, still vibrated like hell. :sad1: Came home 2 weeks later the vibration went. :stupid:
I would get the discs lightly skimmed, fit some decent pads then go and bed them in hard. find somewhere to get your speed into 3 figures then apply a hard brake application right down to 30 MPH then keep repeating the process a good few times. :happy2:
--- End quote ---
How do you clean the discs? With a brakecleaner spray?
--- Quote from: QD on September 03, 2011, 12:20:47 am ---The solution is to buy a set of discs for track use, and only use them with your track pads, and a set of road discs, and use them only with road pads.
Remove them after the track, with the pads, store them together marked up as to which side, and which pad they are so you can refit them in exactly the same orientation.
as said above, you have cross contaminated discs in my opinion.
--- End quote ---
I do not track my car at all...
--- Quote from: Carrera2RS on September 04, 2011, 07:00:49 am ---I had a similar exercise with an AP kit after 3 years of trouble free running with DS11 Ferodo's and brand new discs on am M5. All great 500 miles later bad judder, then ridiculous judder I ......
Had everything dialled for true and wear, replaced all front bushes anyway, refaced disc, spoke to AP, ran different pads, replaced the AP's again. Had the the discs inspected and refaced. Eventually I had the calipers stripped and all seals replaced. One piston was a little slow/sticky.
After 3m and well over £1k, it seemed to go away following rebuilding calipers. My guess is the pad build up was because of the sticky piston allowing the disc to drag a little on the pad and this allowed pad deposits. Never had it before or since. Currently running VWR's with 2500's no judder but only completed 150 miles since fitting
--- End quote ---
I think that I have the same problem than you: sticky piston... However, as I only have 1 piston, it makes the issue to become earlier.
I am looking at diferent AP distributors (with online store), wich do you think is the cheapest (and "safer") to buy online? I have looked at Demon Tweeks and Balance Motorspots...
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