General > Detailing
Which wheel seelent?
rich83:
I had forgotten id sold you that.
I used C5 when i had my refurb, and it was good.... but my lazy approach to cleaning meant that the brake dust (drilled discs kick out loads of sh*te) just burn through the coating!
greygti:
I'm using auto finesse mint rims at the moment and it seems to be good-only time will tell....
Scotsmanash:
I use poor boys wheel sealant, seems to do the job
xjay1337:
--- Quote from: vRS Carl on July 29, 2013, 08:59:01 pm ---
Not true at all.
I tested FK1000P against a C5 that I bought off Richwig on here. I put the FK1000p on one front wheel and C5 on the other. I went away for 8 months and my wife was instructed on how to clean the wheels. Basically she PW rinsed them and the car once a week (over winter).
--- End quote ---
It's very true. I myself run Collinite 476s (which is more durable than FK1000p) and it lasts for maybe 3 months tops. I have seen ceramic coatings (and I shall link you to one in a little bit) last for over 2 years on a car with huuuuge 360mm discs and sintered pads.
I would expect a year durability.
--- Quote ---When I came back both were still protecting the wheels and both to the same extent. I.E similar beading and ease of cleaning.
No doubt if you were to get the microscope out then the C5 may well be doing something better. But in the real world FK1000p performs just as well if not better.
--- End quote ---
"Just as well" - not better. the durability of C5 and any other ceramic coating is all in the application. The wheel MUST MUST MUST MUST be THOROUGHLY Iron X'd, clayed, Iron X'd again, followed by an IPA wipe down to ensure that absolutely nothing interferes with the bond between the sealant and the clear coat.
--- Quote ---The thing about FK is the ease of application & removal. You can coat all 4 wheels at once (assuming you have a lift or 2 at once if using axle stands) let it cure for 30-60 mins depending on the weather. Then buff off. I always apply 2 coats to ensure full coverage.
C5 is a pain to apply as you have to apply it a sector at a time and buff off straight away or it crystallises. I did a quarter of the wheel at a time. I left it 24hrs and put on another coat (to ensure coverage & fairness for the test)
--- End quote ---
I know what you're saying - regular waxes are easier to apply absolutely. However C1/C4/C5 is not "hard" to apply and you have about a 15-20 minute period where you can wipe it away without anything being formed. You can apply it completely to one entire wheel quite happily. The newer versions C1+ can be left for several hours! They were super difficult once upon a time but not as of late.
--- Quote ---Don't believe all the hype you read online especially when it comes to detailing. Something I learnt quite quickly. GTechniq make some good products, I have C1, C4, C5 (yes I know they are all the same), C2v3, C1.5v2, G1, G2, G4, G5 & I1 (which is very good stuff)
But there are other products out there that perform just as well and in some cases better. A lot of it is in the eye of the person who has the product. Especially if they have bought it.
--- End quote ---
I completely agree. I don't speak from hype I speak from experience. I take everything with a pinch of salt but on Detailing World most people there know their stuff - and if 50 people are saying that it works better for them than a regular wax then it probably is better than a regular wax.
--- Quote ---FK1000p is a high temp resistant paste sealant. The main decisive factor for me is that it performs just as good as C1,4,5 and will last a few years as the tin is hooooooge.
--- End quote ---
The cost -> durability is very good in terms of the tin size. That's probably the deciding factor ultimately, the cost.
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=317011
E30Dom:
iron x > polish > poorboys. :happy2:
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