General > Detailing

Help with poorly maintained car by previous owner

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cuprajake:
still guess work though,

wet sanding is a very fine line, and should only de done by those who know what there doing and really, should not be done, if you avargae clear is 30 microns thick and you remove 15microns, you've destroyed any uv protection that clearcoat had, and what was protecting the basecoat from damaging,

try sticking a news paper on your dash for a month in the sun and see what happens to it, thats what the clear coat is there to prevent.

manufactures have a minimum paint depth for a reason

stealthwolf:
I've filled in and flatted back a few chips and scratches but they were minimal and I tried to made sure I didn't touch the surrounding clear coat. It's hard work even just to do a bit without causing problems.

xjay1337:
A couple of things in this thread I feel the need to point out

Jake is right to be fair it's better to pay a professional to do that. However many people do Wetsand and it's something I would be looking into learning. I would start on a scrap panel.

Machine polishing can actually take just as much, if not more clear coat away than wet sanding - You'd be surprised.
Some guy on Detailing World did his BMW and the wet sanding took a mere 3-5 microns out of his paint (measured).
Total clear coat removal was 7-9 microns following the compounding and jewelling.

You can easily remove just as much clear coat (5-10 microns) in machining alone. It's certainly not 1 micron!!! I bloody wish.

Now I have read lots of guides and watched lots of videos and feel fairly confident I could do wetsanding (I do paint correction and detailing as a spare-time hobby for friends and family) hence why I feel fairly confident I could get some good results. I plan to practice on either scrap panels or a friends car (which would be getting panels replaced anyway) -

Paint correction is EASY if you actually do it right and take your time.
However as has been said you can EASILY  make things much worse. German paint is very "hard" in terms of the level of cutting required and is not the easiest to work with for a first timer.

When people buy a car and see swirls and scratches the first thing they run to is WETSANDING because people throw the term about like it's something that's done regularly.
It's not. Your car will 100% only need correction by forms of pad and polish.

The fact you are asking on here rather than on detailing world or on Youtube watching Mike Phillips or Junkman or AmmoNYC videos does make me worried and I'd suggest you speak to Shinearama up in Manchester who will for the cost of a machine correction, not only do it but show you how to do it.

))))(*S()*S)(*DDHFGD blah.

You can buy a DAS6 PRO for £100 if you know where to look
(I use Menzerna polishes and Hexlogic pads, buy a couple of orange pads, couple of white pads and a black pad, buy FG400, PF302 and SF4000 along with Menzerna Powerlock and some tape, a paint depth gauge and a few other bits and pieces (wax, IPA, clay, shampoo etc) you are looking at around £500.)
this is more than capable of doing any paint correction work you need to especially with the combination of pads and polishes available now. It is my opinion that rotary polishes are being made redundant. I've only ever used a Silverline rotary which was OK but it weighed a bloody ton and the vibration made my hands numb after 2 panels (my arms gave up after 1).
While with the DAS6 Pro I can quite literally (and have done) gone all day and I must say achieved better results.

The machine everyone in detailing is hankering after is the Rupes polisher.. well guess what these are DA!

stealthwolf:
You can achieve great correction with a DA. Certainly the megs DA system works really well.

xjay1337:
It does indeed!



However I do not like how the pad gunks up (it happens I believe with MF pads in general)
I am not entirely confident with the rate of removal (in terms of how much clear coat it removes).
I did not do an IPA wipedown on the roof so did not get to check whether the results were genuine.
I honestly prefer sticking with my Hexlogic and Menzerna compound.

I also used it on my roof and after 2 sets it did not remove all the swirls. I guess UAE sun baked the paint a bit harder than normal. FG400 on an orange pad had more effect.

HOWEVER this is much quicker. I would not recommend using the Megs pads as they can split. Mine hasn't (it's been used on 2 cars approx 6 panels in total) but still, not worth the risk. I only using them as I got them free. I'd recommend the Chemical guys MF pads.

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