All Things Mk5 > Performance Modifications
Rear Brake Pad Upgrades....
Janner_Sy:
prices dont seem too bad in comparison to other available alternatives. although i would rather not have the EBC redstuff pads they supply.
Monster 4 335x32mm £1105.38 £1298.82
Monster 6 335x32mm £1246.38 £1464.50
however you can get 4 pot R8 calipers with larger 345mm R32 discs for £1000, the only other benefit i can see for the extra £300 is that they are 2 piece discs, so will help with cooling. could it not be cheaper and more cost effective to put some form of ducting through from the front to blast on the brakes.
@jabbalad, i dont see how you can brake much later for a corner with less rear brake. i know you a little tap on the brakes to bring the back round will get the front turning in more, but that also unsettles the car and you can lose traction on acceleration out of the corner with all the sudden weight transfer. surely for the large majority of drivers who are competent but not advanced drivers a settled car would be faster.
RedRobin:
--- Quote from: simonskerton on September 03, 2009, 10:26:06 am ---
however you can get 4 pot R8 calipers with larger 345mm R32 discs for £1000, the only other benefit i can see for the extra £300 is that they are 2 piece discs, so will help with cooling. could it not be cheaper and more cost effective to put some form of ducting through from the front to blast on the brakes.
--- End quote ---
....An easy mod to duct through from front.
--- Quote from: simonskerton on September 03, 2009, 10:26:06 am ---
@jabbalad, i dont see how you can brake much later for a corner with less rear brake. i know you a little tap on the brakes to bring the back round will get the front turning in more, but that also unsettles the car and you can lose traction on acceleration out of the corner with all the sudden weight transfer. surely for the large majority of drivers who are competent but not advanced drivers a settled car would be faster.
--- End quote ---
....I've always been taught that smoooother is always faster. It's easier on tyres and just about everything else!
DaveB@Vagbremtechnic:
--- Quote from: jabbalad on September 03, 2009, 12:59:58 am ---
--- Quote from: DaveB1970 on September 02, 2009, 10:14:39 pm ---
--- Quote from: jabbalad on September 02, 2009, 01:40:03 pm ---In my opinion i would just stick some decent pads in the back, front wheel drive cars shouldnt use much rear braking... when your trying to do everything through the front wheels the last thing you want to do it to make the back too stable!
Thats my part anyway, and i dont really need to justify this...
--- End quote ---
Not necessary to justify anything mate, could you just elaborate on the bit Ive highlighted
--- End quote ---
no problem, when your fast road or track driving in a front wheel drive car the only way it's going to go quick is if you can be the last on the brakes and first on the power, the only way to do this is to have the car pointing in the right direction as early into the corner as possible with the least ammout of steering input a possible... This doesn't work if the back end is too settled! (we have tried it) you can brake much further into corners with very little rear brake.
I see what your saying that the more even braking should mean better stopping abuility... And on mid engined or rear engined cars this is correct, but it's not really the right direction for front engined front drive cars! In my opinion of course.
--- End quote ---
I think we need to just quantify exactly what we're trying to achieve with our cars here, if we're setting our cars up tp be a lightweight racer - inside or around 1000kg with no interior, carbon/ali panels, exotic brake materials and touring car suspension, talented pro driver and a testing budget - then I'll take your word for it that asking the front wheels to handle 300BHP+, steer and handle the vast majority of braking and deal with the associated heat generated with little rear braking is a good thing.
I think the vast majority of us have also got a requirement to:
A) Go to Sainsbury's
B) Take the old dear out
C) Not kill ourselves on todays roads with a car set up purely for the track
D) Enjoy the drive to work
E) Enjoy track action at a reasonable cost - with out taking it all too seriously (with its associated cost)
I think setting our cars up so that they'll "scandinavian flick" a bit better is beyond most of us on here, in my opinion I want the best dynamic drive I can afford for the road, with a setup that cross polinates to a degree on the track so that the car holds its own and flatters my/our (amateurish - by definition) attempts to go fast.
If I buy a Mk5 Gti I would get a buzz from knowing that it brakes as well as an RS4, if I buy an RS4 I would like to thing I can get it dynamically on the road as good as an R8 isn't that whats moddings all about
So that being the case, improving the front rear bias so that it feels better/faster through my "arse" is a worthwhile mod and for £250 is well worth it. The flatter braking encountered improves confidence/flatters the driver and reduces the work/heat done by the fronts
Given an unlimited budget, a pro driver and another daily drive I could make the fastest golf in the world but isn't that why we watch and enjoy F1???
Janner_Sy:
has anybody here fitted any brake ducting to their cars, or seen any pics or internet links of it done. would be interested to see how and what they have used to do it and where they ran it. I havent had a look yet,
I was thinking hoover tubing and cable clips etc, but i want it too last
Janner_Sy:
i do have to agree with dave TBH,
I wouldnt want my wife loosing it on a bend if she had an emergency stop for some reason. £250 is pretty cheap as well all things considered, and even more so if you are due to renew your rear pads and discs
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