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21
Mk5 General Area / Re: What does this engine clicking noise sound like to you?
« Last post by OllieVRS on March 25, 2024, 12:13:13 pm »
Good luck with it.

I did this last year, a few recommendations and notes from my experience:

By a genuine VW bit for the adjust bolt, as I bought a cheapo Laser one off Amazon, it didn't fit snuggly and stripped the bolt. Make sure there is a little oil as possible on the bolt when undoing it.

And not to scare you, but bashing in the T60 isn't guaranteed to work. For me it would just slip out. So I ended up spending two days and multiple drill bits drilling the b*stard out. Plan B may turn into Plan C  :grin:

Welding up the cam locking tool is a great idea, as the legs on my Chinese Amazon one bent from all the torque, making it near-useless, as I didn't have a welder. I had to use vice grips with a cloth to secure the cam, which is risky as the cam itself is hollow so it can break. Also make sure to weld in such a way that the cam locking tool still fit, that your welds aren't in the way.

Otherwise you're good to go  :happy2:
22
Your boost does seem to be slightly too low from the requested boost, by a few hundred mbar. So there is definitely an issue with boost somewhere. Mine is at most -150mbar from requested when accelerating fully, usually +-50mbar.

Also remember that it's most useful to subtract ambient atmospheric pressure when talking about boost numbers, 1000mbar, e.g. my peak boost boost is 16 psi/1.1bar in my graph.

As for octane, I think mapping on that is equally at fault for the disappointing performance.

In Ireland we only have 95 octane, so if you want more octane here you have to use octane booster. So nearly everybody maps on 95 octane. Back when my car only had a cold air intake it was measured 184hp stock, then 225hp stage 1 (on dyno). When using measuring engine torque in KW via VCDS later, I estimated adding expensive octane booster to make the octane 99 only raised HP by 8-10hp on my 95 map. But the car felt a lot more responsive, and the timing was less retarded so the engine sounded more aggressive. Adding the 200 cel sports cat and another mapping raised the 95 octane power to 235hp, so max 245hp with octane booster.

Online tuners give their numbers for mapping on 98/99 octane, so if you see 'Stage 1 250hp or Stage 2 275hp' they are talking about the car running on a 98/99 map, that can't run 95. Nobody ever gives numbers for 95 octane mapping unfortunately. So if you're making ~230-240hp on a 95 map (on 99 fuel) that's probably realistic numbers.

If I had easy access to 99 octane, I would map for only 99 octane. And I would expect my stage 2 to be ~275hp. '270-275bhp' is a fantasy for stage 1 with no engine mods, your tuner may be overestimating to make his map sound better than other tuners.

Only way to know how much power it's actually making is to go to a real dyno. If that's not an option, you can log Mass Air Flow g/s (act.) and Engine Torque Nm (act.) in VCDS next time you do your log, that can *estimate* hp, but it can be inaccurate.
23
Got mine from my local mechanic. He has some contacts with parts suppliers and can get me some decent prices. I'm gonna give aprox. prices due to conversion rates. Chain and tensioner were 60 euros, roller was 150, adjuster control valve was 25, vvt housing gasket was 5 and valve cover gasket was 10. If I were to go to a parts dealer other than my guy, I'd pay double.

I'd change the adjuster valve too and clean the camshaft position sensor along with the crankshaft sensor. Crank sensor is under the intake, to the left of the throttle body, next to the thermostat.

EDIT: You or whoever does the timing kit for you, keep the following in mind. The bolt that secures the VVT gear to the exhaust camshaft needs a special socket to unbolt (VW5220). It will most likely be stuck in place and will take quite some force to remove. The bolt itself is super easy to strip so make sure you don't let the socket wiggle and make sure it's all the way in. I've managed to strip my bolt and had to drill it then hammer an M10 key into it to finally get some grip and be able to remove it. I'm sure the camshaft didn't like it but I will be replacing them anyway later.

Thanks. Bought the following items from eBay:

* INA Timing Chain, INA Tensioner, INA Adjuster, Bolt: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385581070466
* Elring Timing Chain Cover Gasket: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186098855406
* Oil Control Rings (not sure what manufacturer, couldn't find Elring): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333932667755
* INA Camshaft Adjuster Valve: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335229150433

Also bought a cheap cam locking tool from eBay. I've seen these snap, so going to weld it up beforehand: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BYNFM3KG/

So that's about £350 altogether for INA parts plus the tools I need.

I'm going to give it a go in a week or two when the parts arrive.

I'm fully expecting the camshaft adjuster bolt to give me some trouble. But as you say, drilling it out a little and hammering in an T60 torx seems like plan B:


Thanks again.
24
Mk5 General Area / Re: help me identify this part after replacing cam follower
« Last post by OllieVRS on March 25, 2024, 11:32:15 am »
Glad you found it!

I watched the video you posted but I'm still not sure which part in the video is the one that fell out of yours. The retainer piece looks like a different shape to the simple flat metal cylinder on your photos earlier.

By any chance did you take a photo of the reassembly of the pump with the piece visible?

Very curious in case something like this ever happens on mine.
25
Mk5 General Area / Re: help me identify this part after replacing cam follower
« Last post by Doomhand on March 25, 2024, 05:00:48 am »
Hey man, thank you very much for your reply!

I found out it was the HPFP retainer cap. I dissambled the pump and put the little cap back in place. Everything seems okay so far.

Here's a video that describes de full disassembly. Its really helpful.



You are right, these cars seem to have weird bits and pieces laying around sometimes  :rolleye:

26
Mk5 General Area / Re: What does this engine clicking noise sound like to you?
« Last post by ZoliWorks on March 24, 2024, 08:06:02 pm »
Got mine from my local mechanic. He has some contacts with parts suppliers and can get me some decent prices. I'm gonna give aprox. prices due to conversion rates. Chain and tensioner were 60 euros, roller was 150, adjuster control valve was 25, vvt housing gasket was 5 and valve cover gasket was 10. If I were to go to a parts dealer other than my guy, I'd pay double.

I'd change the adjuster valve too and clean the camshaft position sensor along with the crankshaft sensor. Crank sensor is under the intake, to the left of the throttle body, next to the thermostat.

EDIT: You or whoever does the timing kit for you, keep the following in mind. The bolt that secures the VVT gear to the exhaust camshaft needs a special socket to unbolt (VW5220). It will most likely be stuck in place and will take quite some force to remove. The bolt itself is super easy to strip so make sure you don't let the socket wiggle and make sure it's all the way in. I've managed to strip my bolt and had to drill it then hammer an M10 key into it to finally get some grip and be able to remove it. I'm sure the camshaft didn't like it but I will be replacing them anyway later.
27
I'm no expert on turbos but wanted to mention a couple things to keep in mind with HP expectations:
- R8 coils do not add more power
- NGK BKR7EIX do not help add more power (at your tuning level):
NGK BKR7EIX are a 5k Ohm restricted plug. You really should consider going back to the 1k Ohm plug (NGK 1675 PFR7S8EG) w/gaps at 0.8 mm, and allow more voltage to pass through the plug when stock as yours is. At stock there's no need to restrict the power for the arc it can generate. Because your combustion situation is not likely to disturb its arc.

Not exactly sure how to read your graph, but if this helps, here's my boost (act.) VCDS log from stage 2, intake and 200cel:



EDIT: Also, you're getting mapped and dynoing while running 99 octane, right?

I'm running on 100 octane but the map was made for 95 octane. Tuner said making it on 100 it would only add a bit more power but wouldn't behave well if I used anything lower (because i might now always have the chance to tank up on 100 or 99) so he pretty much only makes maps for 95. Also said that running 100 on his 95 map is fine.

As far as dyno goes, the car wasn't dyno-d. Guy took the stock map from the car, modified it then we went for a drive. I've been working with him for a while and he's done so many GTI's he could write a map from scratch.

Plugs and coils, the old ones were dying so I had to replace and these were the cheapest ones. On my 1.4 I've had constant misfires till I switched to this plug and coil combo so I figured it wouldn't hurt here either.

And the graph I sent, that's basically me flooring it in 3rd and then switching to 4th on the highway. Here's an excel log if that helps with anything. 3rd to 4th pull down at the bottom.
https://ubbcluj-my.sharepoint.com/:x:/g/personal/arpad_borbely_stud_ubbcluj_ro/EaMelNr8foZAu2jEjQj2aEUB0sWKGzvO_6McYF4RsmSlxQ?e=chQjX3

This log has less info but has timing
https://ubbcluj-my.sharepoint.com/:x:/g/personal/arpad_borbely_stud_ubbcluj_ro/ESgektv-s7hGrGPq-LW1OMQBbWmIgWbhIMS5MwsuXukIww?e=NpxG7f
28
Unplug the VVT solenoid and see if the noise stops.

Thanks. I gave it a go, but noise is still there.

I've been browsing around and I think it might be the cam adjuster. These were the comments on this video:

"Hi, after my mechanic did the same job, the car came back with a rattle on the cam chain side that disappears after 2000rpm. I know the chain and tensioner was replaced, I don't know if the adjuster was replaced. Could it be the n205 sensor or the cam adjuster?"

"I found out the problem was the vvt cam adjuster wheel sprocket, the axx engine has metal sealing rings which wears the inner surface and was preventing sufficient oil reaching the adjuster, so replacing that cam adjuster sproket and using the new plastic revised rings resolved the issue."


Mine wasn't making that noise specifically but it was clogged up quite a bit because the previous owner neglected the oil changes and cooked the engine slightly. My 93 block was reading anywhere from -2 to -6. In my case, it would regularly throw correlation fault codes and would be sluggish to respond. I could floor it, release, clutch in, shift gear, clutch out and it would still be pulling as if I never let off the throttle.

I ended up going full length, changing the chain, tensioner, VVT wheel and VVT control valve (all INA parts). The car had an instant change in how it accelerates or responds. You tap it and it shoots forward. 93 block is now between +5 and +2 and doing a 3rd to 5th gear pull and a VCDS log, the cam timing specified and actual is almost 1-to-1 with a 0.5 to max 1 degrees mismatch every now and then.

I would also check the cam follower just to be safe.

Yeah I'm thinking about changing the chain, tensioner, and cam adjuster (VVT wheel).

Where did you get the parts from? I'm looking to get INA too as I hear they're OEM. I found this kit on eBay, but I'm not sure if the cam adjuster is INA as well. Seems like the price might be too good to be true.

EDIT: This kit looks like it will do the job: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155538839724

EDIT 2: The camshaft adjuster in the above kit isn't INA. I found this kit instead: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/385581070466
29
Mk5 General Area / Re: help me identify this part after replacing cam follower
« Last post by OllieVRS on March 24, 2024, 04:36:18 pm »
I've taken off the HPFP a few times, but never disassembled it. Never seen anything like that.

But it would be weird that something round like that could just 'pop out' of an pretty tightly assembled device. Do you know if your HPFP has been upgraded by a previous owner?

There's a old post on here showing the complete disassembly: https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=10965.0, but due to its age the photos are not so clear.

Maybe someone else who's done the HPFP internals upgrade could chime in, as unfortunately I can't help any further.

If this was my car I'd be panicking, as I've found various strange foreign objects in my car's sump, like electrical wire, orange plastic (turned out to be part of cam chain tensioner 3 years later) and metal shards (origin still unknown) and my car has ran mostly fine. So if you're boosting fine I would assume it's most likely okay. But no guarantees  :wink:
30
I'm no expert on turbos but wanted to mention a couple things to keep in mind with HP expectations:
- R8 coils do not add more power
- NGK BKR7EIX do not help add more power (at your tuning level):
NGK BKR7EIX are a 5k Ohm restricted plug. You really should consider going back to the 1k Ohm plug (NGK 1675 PFR7S8EG) w/gaps at 0.8 mm, and allow more voltage to pass through the plug when stock as yours is. At stock there's no need to restrict the power for the arc it can generate. Because your combustion situation is not likely to disturb its arc.


Not exactly sure how to read your graph, but if this helps, here's my boost (act.) VCDS log from stage 2, intake and 200cel:



EDIT: Also, you're getting mapped and dynoing while running 99 octane, right?
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