MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: dazza on August 24, 2023, 09:01:15 pm
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HI Guys
Don't get much time for the car these days only doing the minimum to keep it running. Maybe a little less than the minimum :scared1:
Yesterday on the motorway the car lost power and the wife and kids were stranded on the hard sholder. :sick:
The info i have.
Battey light came on
Total loss of power car came to standstill.
Engine was still running and was shut off.
The findings
Alternator belt was snapped completly birdnested. (tow truck driver ripped out old belt.)
VCDS Below
Now
I replaced the alternator belt and also checked the cambelt the cambelt is warn but its expected as i changed it 8 years ago.
Car just turns over and does not start.
EPC is on not sure if this is always on when trying to start.
Its strange how there was a loss of power.
Its very squeeky when turning over.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Wednesday,23,August,2023,22:01:12:39050
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 11 x64
VCDS Version: 23.3.1.0 (x64)
Data version: 20230421 DS346.2
www.Ross-Tech.com
Mileage: 233250km-144934mi Repair Order:
233
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chassis Type: 1K-VW35 (1K0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 25 37 42 44 46 52 55 56 75 77
Mileage: 233250km-144934miles
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 0010
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
15-Airbags -- Status: Malfunction 0010
16-Steering wheel -- Status: Malfunction 0010
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
37-Navigation -- Status: Malfunction 0010
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: Malfunction 0010
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
55-Headlight Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
75-Telematics -- Status: OK 0000
77-Telephone -- Status: Malfunction 0010
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
5 Faults Found:
001393 - Brake Switch (F)
P0571 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 7
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 226061 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 08:12:23
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 964 /min
Load: 17.6 %
Speed: 25.0 km/h
Temperature: 90.0∞C
Temperature: 42.0∞C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.589 V
005634 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 002 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: -40.0∞C
Temperature: -40.0∞C
Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
Voltage: 0.000 V
004243 - Bank 1; Fuel Measuring System 2
P1093 - 008 - Malfunction - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 233253 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 11:30:55
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2327 /min
Load: 4.3 %
Speed: 97.0 km/h
Temperature: 92.0∞C
Temperature: 84.0∞C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 12.192 V
000274 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42)
P0112 - 001 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 233253 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 11:30:58
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2122 /min
Load: 42.3 %
Speed: 85.0 km/h
Temperature: 92.0∞C
Temperature: 143.0∞C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.811 V
000257 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0101 - 004 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 233253 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 11:30:59
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2066 /min
Load: 40.4 %
Speed: 83.0 km/h
Temperature: 92.0∞C
Temperature: 143.0∞C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 11.811 V
Readiness: 0000 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 02E-927-770.clb
Part No SW: 02E 300 042 Q HW: 02E 927 770 AE
Component: GSG DSG 070 0925
Revision: 04007000 Serial number: 00000505270296
Coding: 0000020
Shop #: WSC 01279 785 00200
VCID: 2149EDFBF851609BE4-8074
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1K0-907-379-MK60-F.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 Q HW: 1K0 907 379 Q
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0102
Revision: 00T12001
Coding: 0004738
Shop #: WSC 01279 785 00200
VCID: 408F487F131B49938B-8014
3 Faults Found:
57511 - Unknown Error Code
Unknown - 015 - - MIL ON
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
01314 - Engine Control Module
013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 1K0-907-044.lbl
Part No: 1K0 907 044 AB
Component: ClimatronicPQ35 066 0404
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 67DDB3E356F55EAB6A-8032
1 Fault Found:
00926 - Terminal 30
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels:. 3C0-937-049-23-H.lbl
Part No SW: 3C0 937 049 E HW: 3C0 937 049 E
Component: Bordnetz-SG H37 1002
Revision: 00H37000 Serial number: 00000002060872
Coding: E78F0F270004180000140000140000000009FF0719
Shop #: WSC 01279 785 00200
VCID: 2B550FD38A9DBACB4E-807E
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K1 955 119 C Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
Component: Wischer VW350 013 0402
Coding: 00065493
Shop #: WSC 01279
Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1K0 955 559 T Labels: 1K0-955-559-AF.CLB
Component: RegenLichtSens 011 1110
Coding: 00207646
Shop #: WSC 01279
2 Faults Found:
00526 - Brake Light Switch (F)
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 110
Mileage: 226983 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
ON
Voltage: 14.15 V
ON
ON
OFF
OFF
ON
00446 - Function Limitation due to Under-Voltage
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 102
Mileage: 232977 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
ON
Voltage: 8.75 V
ON
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 1K0-909-605.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 909 605 N HW: 1K0 909 605 N
Component: 2E AIRBAG VW8 015 2100
Revision: 03015000 Serial number: 0038ED0K027O
Coding: 0012869
Shop #: WSC 01279 785 00200
VCID: 377D23A346D50E2B3A-8062
Subsystem 1 - Serial number: 6332MSME0B04370EA
Subsystem 2 - Serial number: 6342MSME0B40186FH
Subsystem 3 - Serial number: 6351HSME077E1667F
Subsystem 4 - Serial number: 6361HSME077F0549F
1 Fault Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 1K0-953-549-MY8.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 953 549 AG HW: 1K0 953 549 AG
Component: J0527 634 0070
Coding: 0012122
Shop #: WSC 01279 785 00200
VCID: 77FDE3A30655CE2BFA-8022
Subsystem 1 - Part No: XXXXXXXXXXX
Component: E0221 007 0050
1 Fault Found:
00446 - Function Limitation due to Under-Voltage
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1K0-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 1K6 920 872
Component: KOMBIINSTRUMENT VDD 1212
Coding: 0007103
Shop #: WSC 08650 572 93102
VCID: 6ED3C6C7790F8FE329-803A
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels:. 1K0-907-530-V4.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 S HW: 1K0 907 951
Component: J533 Gateway H07 0071
Revision: H07 01 Serial number: 241008F1002300
Coding: ED811F06600602000000
Shop #: WSC 35110 377 00156
VCID: 377D23A346D50E2B3A-8062
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: 1K0-920-xxx-25.clb
Part No: 1K6 920 872
Component: IMMO VDD 1212
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 6ED3C6C7790F8FE329-803A
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 37: Navigation (J0506) Labels:. 1T0-035-680.clb
Part No SW: 1T0 035 680 R HW: 1T0 035 680 R
Component: RNS-MID H23 6270
Revision: AB001001 Serial number: VWZ6Z7P7712993
Coding: 0A0004000000000D0000
Shop #: WSC 12345 123 12345
VCID: 3D71318BA4E9247BE0-8068
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1T0 919 859 B
Component: EU West V10 8048
7 Faults Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 102
Mileage: 232977 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 07:09:34
00446 - Function Limitation due to Under-Voltage
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 102
Mileage: 232977 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 07:09:10
00857 - CD Changer Unit (R41)
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 70
Mileage: 226056 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 15:14:00
00873 - Bass Speaker Rear Right (R17)
011 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101011
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 70
Mileage: 226056 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 18:03:11
00872 - Bass Speaker Rear Left (R15)
011 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101011
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 70
Mileage: 226056 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 18:03:11
00871 - Bass Speaker Front Right (R23)
011 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101011
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 70
Mileage: 227304 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 15:16:14
00870 - Bass Speaker Front Left (R21)
011 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101011
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 70
Mileage: 227304 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 15:16:14
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Labels: 1K0-959-701-MAX2.lbl
Part No: 1K0 959 701 L
Component: Tuer-SG 024 2469
Coding: 0000118
Shop #: WSC 01279 785 00200
VCID: 377D23A346D50E2B3A-8062
4 Faults Found:
01811 - Supply Voltage for Door Controller; Drivers Side (J386)
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
00120 - Outside Warning Light/Door exit Light Driver Side
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
00109 - Left Mirror Turn Signal Lamp (L131)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
00131 - Outside Door Handle Illumination/mirror Light Driver Side
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1Kx-909-144-G2V2.clb
Part No: 1K1 909 144 J
Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl.5 D04 1606
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 326B12B7ADB7EB030D-8066
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels:. 1K0-959-433-MAX.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 959 433 AQ HW: 1K0 959 433 AQ
Component: 01 KSG PQ35 G2 010 0101
Revision: 00010000 Serial number: 00000000000000
Coding: 80900A0851030638000484057008CAC6F0A040
Shop #: WSC 01287 785 00200
VCID: 7F0D0B832E65F66BB2-802A
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K0 951 605 D
Component: LIN BACKUP HORN H07 9001
Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1K0 907 719 C
Component: Neigungssensor 005 0003
Subsystem 3 - Part No: 1K0 951 177 A
Component: Innenraumueberw.005 0202
2 Faults Found:
01135 - Interior Monitoring Sensors
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100010
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 61
Mileage: 232974 km
Time Indication: 0
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01110010
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Time Indication: 0
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. Labels: 1K0-959-702-MAX2.lbl
Part No: 1K0 959 702 L
Component: Tuer-SG 024 2469
Coding: 0000118
Shop #: WSC 01279 785 00200
VCID: 387F209F4BCB015333-806C
3 Faults Found:
01812 - Supply Voltage for Door Controller; Pass. Side (J387)
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
00121 - Outside Warning Light/Door exit Light Passenger Side
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
00132 - Outside Door Handle Illumination/mirror Light Passenger Side
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 55: Headlight Range Labels: 1T0-907-357.lbl
Part No: 1T0 907 357
Component: Dynamische LWR 0003
Coding: 0000003
Shop #: WSC 01279 785 00200
VCID: 74E7D4AF1723A533DF-8020
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio (J0506) Labels:. 1T0-035-680.clb
Part No SW: 1T0 035 680 R HW: 1T0 035 680 R
Component: RNS-MID H23 6270
Revision: AB001001 Serial number: VWZ6Z7P7712993
Coding: 0A0004000000000D0000
Shop #: WSC 12345 123 12345
VCID: 3D71318BA4E9247BE0-8068
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1T0 919 859 B
Component: EU West V10 8048
7 Faults Found:
00857 - CD Changer Unit (R41)
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 70
Mileage: 226056 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 15:14:00
00873 - Bass Speaker Rear Right (R17)
011 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101011
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 70
Mileage: 226056 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 18:03:11
00872 - Bass Speaker Rear Left (R15)
011 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101011
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 70
Mileage: 226056 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 18:03:11
00871 - Bass Speaker Front Right (R23)
011 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101011
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 70
Mileage: 227304 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 15:16:14
00870 - Bass Speaker Front Left (R21)
011 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101011
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 254
Reset counter: 70
Mileage: 227304 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 15:16:14
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 102
Mileage: 232977 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 07:09:34
00446 - Function Limitation due to Under-Voltage
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 102
Mileage: 232977 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 07:09:10
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 75: Telematics
Cannot be reached
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 77: Telephone (J412) Labels:| 3C8-035-730-A.clb
Part No SW: 3C8 035 730 C HW: 3C8 035 730 C
Component: Telefon 012 0822
Revision: -------- Serial number: 35909603374642
Coding: 020104010100110000000401
Shop #: WSC 12345 123 12345
ASAM Dataset: EV_UHVPremi A02705
ROD: EV_UHVPremi_A02.rod
VCID: 2345E7F32A4D728BF6-8076
1 Fault Found:
13893632 - Function Restricted due to Insufficient Voltage
U1400 00 [008] - -
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 3
Reset counter: 103
End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 02:21)--------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: DTCs cleared
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I don't hear the fuel pump when i open the drivers door how can i run this with vcds?
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Checked the cam follower there was good pressure.
This snapped with the lightest of touches :scared:
(https://i.postimg.cc/vZfGkSvj/Whats-App-Image-2023-08-25-at-12-38-07.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sMfFZmq9)
-
A bit more info from the wife when changing from drive to park there was a horrible grinding/crunching noise
-
Its foobared
The timing mark is just gone 6 when in should be 12.
Options?
Dont leave your cam belts 8 years guys :ashamed:
(https://i.postimg.cc/zfGP2Rfy/Whats-App-Image-2023-08-25-at-23-49-21-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WdxnhzgV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sxsnSBbf/Whats-App-Image-2023-08-26-at-00-04-46.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8JXBgC1x)
-
Crank and cam turn at different speeds. The crank turns 2 revolutions and the camshaft once for 1 engine cycle. Try and turn it over once more, line up the crank pulley with the relevant mark first then have a look where the camshaft is - not the other way round. If the belt is intact and still has tension then why would the timing be out? Don't scrap it just yet :happy2:
-
Thanks for your input, I started over.
Set the crank pulley close to tdc.
(https://i.postimg.cc/X7y8KCsb/Whats-App-Image-2023-08-26-at-15-32-37.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKMxMK6n)
The camshaft is about 15 teeth before the mark (it should not be there)
(https://i.postimg.cc/B6khscmm/Whats-App-Image-2023-08-26-at-15-33-14.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WFmmwrLZ)
One more turn and it moves opposite.
(https://i.postimg.cc/j5phBqj9/Whats-App-Image-2023-08-26-at-15-33-59.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JDQJkLZc)
Another turn puts it back to about 15 teeth out :confused:
-
Yeah 8 years is double VW's official service interval of 4 years / 60,000 miles, which ever comes first, but unfortunately that knowledge doesn't help your situation now. But if it turns over and does not start you can still hope nothing has collided internally.
If I were you, I'd get the timing right first (I think that's what's stopping it from firing up) with your current belt and then do a compression test. If all looks good (109-210psi), get a new belt and water pump kit in.
As for that annoying coolant pipe, I snapped mine three months ago doing the cam chain. I'm not sure about the part no. for the top pipe but the bottom one has the part no. on it:
(https://i.postimg.cc/5tp3MXWV/PXL-20230505-161912583-1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f3tXcTb2)
I got both mine off a scrap gti for €20.
Hope that's of some help :happy2:
-
Yeah 8 years is double VW's official service interval of 4 years / 60,000 miles, which ever comes first, but unfortunately that knowledge doesn't help your situation now.
Yes i did the belt lasttime and added a two piece cover it would have been easy second time arround, just so many other jobs to do.
If I were you, I'd get the timing right first (I think that's what's stopping it from firing up) with your current belt and then do a compression test. If all looks good (109-210psi), get a new belt and water pump kit in.
I was going to take the rocker cover off and then the head. But i will try what you recomended.
thanks for the help i've already replaced the coolant pipe
-
so the eight year old belt was not to blame its a wire from the auxillary belt that snapped. Check your aux belts guys.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7hKPwJq6/Whats-App-Image-2023-08-26-at-18-36-47.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rRt29m0X)
-
The crank is aligned, whats the best way to turn the camshaft sprocket?
(https://i.postimg.cc/GpXGMCgn/Whats-App-Image-2023-08-26-at-20-37-24.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJ7XjHq2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/NMLTSzZ9/Whats-App-Image-2023-08-26-at-21-58-08.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zbZVR0z8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mDqMsSGd/Whats-App-Image-2023-08-26-at-21-58-09.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQY1P7xS)
-
If the pistons are at TDC you'll probably find the cam won't turn becaust of valve-piston hitting
Ideally needs the pistons all halfway in their bores to allow the cam to be timed.
I would say you have bent valves anyway so I'd be taking the head off.
-
If the pistonns are at TDC you'll probably find the cam won't turn becaust of valve-piston hitting
Ideally needs the pistons all halfway in their bores to allow the cam to be timed.
I would say you have bent valves anyway so I'd be taking the head off.
Its hard to see how there would be no damage.
What will i need to reinstall to do the compression test?
-
Cam belt refitted (new belt ideally) and tensioned, timed up. Bottom pulley back on so belt doesn't fly off.
As previous post, you'll need the pistons halfway in the bore to allow the top end to be timed up, then time the bottom end up.
-
Cam belt refitted (new belt ideally) and tensioned, timed up. Bottom pulley back on so belt doesn't fly off.
As previous post, you'll need the pistons halfway in the bore to allow the top end to be timed up, then time the bottom end up.
Great thanks what about the mount, fuel/coolant lines?
-
Just for a compression test I wouldn't bother with the coolant/fuel lines if they are all off , I would disconnect the fuel pump under the rear seat. You'll only need to crank the engine for 5-10secs each cylinder.
Put the mount back on with a couple of bolts.
-
Oh dear. 15 teeth off is quite likely to have resulted in the valves getting intimate with the piston(s). A compression test when it's retimed will confirm.
-
The cam sprocket is 2 teeth away from the mark but when I try and line it up it springs back to 2 teeth away.
Now it's sprung forward a quarter turn..
Going to take the valve cover off.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mrm8z5H8/IMG-20230827-143900.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5HFwDppC)
-
I started to remove the head. But I was thinking maybe it would have stayed at tdc if I removed the plugs?
What should I be looking for now the rocker cover is off?
(https://i.postimg.cc/2S4FrHY9/IMG-20230827-222729.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zyJC0b7)
-
I'd remove the cams and check the rocker arms that are under the cams for cracking/damage, then remove the head and check for bent valves, you may see that some of the valves aren't sitting right with the cams out.
-
At TDC, the rounded notches in the cams should both be horizontal and all 4 cam lobes on cylinder 1 pointing up.
-
Been away for a few days, all i could think about was cracking on with this :confused:
Removed the heat shield, whats the best approach for removing the exaust manifold? The haynes manual said i need to remove the turbo?
Thanks again for all your help.
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The turbo is integral with the exhaust manifold.
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The turbo is integral with the exhaust manifold.
So i need to remove the turbo or i can just unbolt it from the head and leave it in place?
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https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Volkswagen_Golf_GTI_Mk_V/65-ENGINE-Replacing_Your_Head_Gasket/65-ENGINE-Replacing_Your_Head_Gasket.htm
This guide may help.
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https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Volkswagen_Golf_GTI_Mk_V/65-ENGINE-Replacing_Your_Head_Gasket/65-ENGINE-Replacing_Your_Head_Gasket.htm
This guide may help.
Thanks!
The head comes out with the manifold and turbo attached?
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Probably easier to remove the head with the turbo detached from it.
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Probably easier to remove the head with the turbo detached from it.
The pelican part tutorial said it may be easier to remove the turbo first but this looks like a pita. Can I not just disconnect the manifold from the head and leave it where it is?
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Try it, it can't hurt..
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everything is now removed from the head :laugh:
anyone know the correct tool to remove the head bolts? I bought one but it did not fit :sick:
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Done a bit of Googling , it appears to be a 10mm Ribe socket, which looks like a torx but has squared off edges.
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Done a bit of Googling , it appears to be a 10mm Ribe socket, which looks like a torx but has squared off edges.
Thanks mate.
I just bought one off amazon for delivery tomorrow, When i did my cam chain i snapped a cheap one of these and then bought the original vw tool.
Hopefully it will not snap again.
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Fingers crossed Dazza, do the bolts look like I described?
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Fingers crossed Dazza, do the bolts look like I described?
Yes its a ribe socket I have a set of these but they are too short. Will let you guys know how i get on tomorrow :scared1:
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The head is off. Some pics.
(https://i.postimg.cc/k5vqbrxM/IMG-20230910-174830.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBtZW576)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fLHs8x26/IMG-20230910-175340.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Hc7Fx7C2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/636wVH0r/IMG-20230910-175347.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xkZWn3B8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rs3kkqLj/IMG-20230910-175352.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CnGtCT5n)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2jKmv7BW/IMG-20230910-175400.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MXVhJR5Z)
(https://i.postimg.cc/cLqSk1h4/IMG-20230910-175410.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jLhmLbBG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qMWJfxJr/IMG-20230910-180427.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XpcSdFB1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YCgptL0W/IMG-20230910-180528.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Yvrc391r)
(https://i.postimg.cc/T295XSF6/IMG-20230910-180552.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8s7zRyTK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/14hp2N4K/IMG-20230910-180645.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BPpL1bT8)
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Can see the valve to piston contact on top of the pistons!
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Can see the valve to piston contact on top of the pistons!
this?
(https://i.postimg.cc/6qws0JP3/Whats-App-Image-2023-09-10-at-18-08-53.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYy0972K)
Also all the intake valves have some skuffed spots.
(https://i.postimg.cc/jS2pvhMz/Whats-App-Image-2023-09-10-at-21-15-48.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HrGvkbDx)
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Yep - Are the cams out of the head? If so put some petrol around the valves to see which ones leak.
Can see most of the inlet valves are bent from the pics but they all need removing to check properly
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Yep - Are the cams out of the head? If so put some petrol around the valves to see which ones leak.
Can see most of the inlet valves are bent from the pics but they all need removing to check properly
I have not taken the cams out. Can this be done without removing the cam adjuster? I lent my locking tool and socket to some members and never had it back :sad1:
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Not sure as never done the job on a TFSI personally.
They'll need removing and the rocker assemblies checking for damage too.
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Not having much luck with this locking tool will not fit
(https://i.postimg.cc/hPt6JCPd/IMG-20230912-183917.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXtQmk5j)
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The cams are out will have to remove the cam adjuster another day.
The lifters look good
(https://i.postimg.cc/pdzqX48H/IMG-20230912-201736.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7CPgKBms)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tJC5kgcq/IMG-20230912-201743.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R6yKVv9y)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yxQTbHqF/IMG-20230912-203400.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fSdXV1RL)
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Just the valves to remove now then Dazza! :congrats:
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What tools will I need to get these valves out?
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Hopefully these are what is needed.
https://www.amazon.es/dp/B07BSH32PX?psc=1&smid=A1AT7YVPFBWXBL&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
https://www.amazon.es/dp/B01KZ8UBGY?psc=1&smid=A18U3DCLRWZRI3&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
(https://i.postimg.cc/T3YD2RW5/Screenshot-from-2023-09-13-11-17-30.png) (https://postimg.cc/D8HZB367)
(https://i.postimg.cc/yN2gTcp0/Screenshot-from-2023-09-13-11-17-43.png) (https://postimg.cc/Z9F5bBSq)
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someone mentioned this could be oil? I think its just coolant from removing the head.
Should i test with some petrol/diesel?
(https://i.postimg.cc/YCgptL0W/IMG-20230910-180528.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Yvrc391r)
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I leak tested the valves.
no 7 on the intake side is leaking a lot.
after 30 mins 1,2,4 and 8 on the exaust side have a small damp patch around the stems.
Its hard to see on the intake side.
Surely the 8 valves that hit the pistons need to be changed?
I tried blowing with the compressor, depending on where you put the air you can get bubbles but from a distance only 7 on the intake side has bubbles.
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The valves from the intake side are out. Is there a way to test if they are bent? Or should I just replace them all as they hit the pistons?
(https://i.postimg.cc/25ZRQMw3/IMG-20230914-195649.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gwmTdM1P)
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need to start ordering everything thats needed. I cannot afford to buy from the stealers.
Any particular brands i should use? there are so many and the prices vary a lot.
would Elring be ok for the gaskets?
https://www.autodoc.es/elring/207029
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Roll the valves along a flat table, that'll easily show any that are bent. Elring are a good make I believe.
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Roll the valves along a flat table, that'll easily show any that are bent. Elring are a good make I believe.
Tried rolling on the table could not see any bent ones. Even the one that was really leaking.
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I'd replace them all, you don't want to be doing all this work twice.
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Ordered most of the parts I need. Just need to order the bolts.
Are aftermarket head bolts ok?
The liquid gasket has gone hard and there a lots of bits in the top of the head. Could I give it a blast down with hot pressure washer?
Everything is out apart from the injectors.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZR5hpPCY/IMG-20230915-203557.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBVN1yF6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YCQkHq57/IMG-20230915-203604.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qNBWc0BD)
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Trying to find the part number for this pipe. Break booster I think.
https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/golf+variant+4motion/golf/2005-420/6/611-611076/
(https://i.postimg.cc/132Wy16c/IMG-20230917-195349.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mP33Sqmt)
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Blimey…. I go away for 2 minutes and we’ve got open heart surgery going on…. Hope you are well dazza and hope you get the engine built back up without too much bother.
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Blimey…. I go away for 2 minutes and we’ve got open heart surgery going on…. Hope you are well dazza and hope you get the engine built back up without too much bother.
Thanks Rich, all good here. I'm putting a few hours in each night, its nice to be working on the old girl again. What i really need is a new car for the ball and chain.
Hope all is well with you and the family.
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I tested the piston seals with some diesel. Filled to the bottom of the caliper in the pics.
Within 1 hour 45 mins all had dropped 3 were nearly empty.
Maybe this is why I needed to top up the oil often.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yYTSjBST/IMG-20230919-111748.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1fftRkBg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8cmsZBsC/IMG-20230919-111757.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bSdzJnxX)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8cSjdnp3/IMG-20230919-111842.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/62MWtcGL)
(https://i.postimg.cc/k482bdmK/IMG-20230919-111848.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gXzzCQr2)
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I managed to do this same thing with mine - after swapping my intercooler I managed to nick the edge of my drive belt on the AC union and the belt thread unravelled itself and posted itself into the timing belt.
Despite the financial impact, it was possibly the best thing I have done to my Mk5 - head rebuild & injector clean seemed to restore power. new valve guides & stem seal + DIY Turbo rebuild also helped - now my engine barely uses oil.
As its off, get a vacuum pump rebuild kit from ebay.
If I had to do this again, the only thing I would change is to remove the misery with both timing belt and chain - I managed to get both a tooth out in opposite directions - correctly installed, my BWA belt seems to always be 2/3 of a tooth out comparing cam & crank timing marks.
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Pistons are out what should I be looking for here?
(https://i.postimg.cc/wTBh2xwL/IMG-20230921-203600.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9zvRF25Q)
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Do the rings spin freely by hand? If no they could have been squashed when the valve/piston contact occured.
Any damage to the ring lands (the gaps and part of the piston around the rings)
Now is the time to fit new rings and hone the cylinders.Especially if had high oil consumption.
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Valves are out what should I be looking for here?
(https://i.postimg.cc/wTBh2xwL/IMG-20230921-203600.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9zvRF25Q)
Those my friend are pistons.
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Those my friend are pistons.
I'm so tired :indifferent:
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Do the rings spin freely by hand? If no they could have been squashed when the valve/piston contact occured.
Yes they all spin easily by hand.
Any damage to the ring lands (the gaps and part of the piston around the rings)
Not that i can see but going to clean them up tomorrow.
Now is the time to fit new rings and hone the cylinders.Especially if had high oil consumption.
Regardind the honeing is there a resonably priced tool i can buy to diy this?
This has the highest reviews of what amazon has to offer
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BGS-1265-Honing-Tool-flexible/dp/B07XZS9Y1D/ref=sr_1_8?crid=6PB0G9DVIE7L&keywords=honing%2Btool&qid=1695419927&s=diy&sprefix=honing%2Btool%2Cdiy%2C93&sr=1-8&th=1
(https://i.postimg.cc/CKjpkMJ9/Screenshot-2023-09-23-at-0-00-57.png) (https://postimages.org/)
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I managed to do this same thing with mine - after swapping my intercooler I managed to nick the edge of my drive belt on the AC union and the belt thread unravelled itself and posted itself into the timing belt.
Despite the financial impact, it was possibly the best thing I have done to my Mk5 - head rebuild & injector clean seemed to restore power. new valve guides & stem seal + DIY Turbo rebuild also helped - now my engine barely uses oil.
As its off, get a vacuum pump rebuild kit from ebay.
If I had to do this again, the only thing I would change is to remove the misery with both timing belt and chain - I managed to get both a tooth out in opposite directions - correctly installed, my BWA belt seems to always be 2/3 of a tooth out comparing cam & crank timing marks.
Thanks for the encouragement.
Regarding the valve guides these are easy to remove/replace.
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I've never used that type myself, the garage ones I've used are the 3 x stone type. Can get them for under £20 off eBay I've seen.
Both types will do the job.
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I've never used that type myself, the garage ones I've used are the 3 x stone type. Can get them for under £20 off eBay I've seen.
Both types will do the job.
Thanks!
To do the honing do i need to take the crankshaft out? There are also the oil feed at the bottom of the cylinders
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Just got to be careful at the bottom of the stroke not to hit the crank and oil squirters. The squirters can be removed , see Ollievrs thread about his oil pump woes.
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I managed to do this same thing with mine - after swapping my intercooler I managed to nick the edge of my drive belt on the AC union and the belt thread unravelled itself and posted itself into the timing belt.
Despite the financial impact, it was possibly the best thing I have done to my Mk5 - head rebuild & injector clean seemed to restore power. new valve guides & stem seal + DIY Turbo rebuild also helped - now my engine barely uses oil.
As its off, get a vacuum pump rebuild kit from ebay.
If I had to do this again, the only thing I would change is to remove the misery with both timing belt and chain - I managed to get both a tooth out in opposite directions - correctly installed, my BWA belt seems to always be 2/3 of a tooth out comparing cam & crank timing marks.
Thanks for the encouragement.
Regarding the valve guides these are easy to remove/replace.
I just sent my head to an engine shop for rebuild - £225 for full rebuild, including new guides.
One other tip - when reinstalling the Turbo - bolt on all the pipework that connects to the core before you mount the turbo - it will save a lot of swearing
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Cleaned the pistons up today.
(https://i.postimg.cc/LXP1VkFv/IMG-20230924-192644.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vgQTYVB6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9XG9RBpQ/IMG-20230924-192651.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fkRy1mpG)
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Where is the best place to get the bolts? Are vag bolts on eBay well priced?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/vagbolts
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Where is the best place to get the bolts? Are vag bolts on eBay well priced?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/vagbolts
For faster delivery and original quality I'd go straight to your local dealership's parts department, usually there similarly priced to eBay but you're guaranteed quality. In Ireland parts collection usually takes 2 working days (parts are shipped from the UK), so I'd expect it's next day or same day collection in the UK.
You can also go to Skoda dealerships, they sometimes sell the parts cheaper (or so I hear).
Best to call the parts departments of each just to get quote for prices, double check with them that they are quoting with VAT included, ask for estimated collection time, and then compare with eBay.
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As always thanks for all your help guys.
While I wait for parts to arrive I've been trying to clean up the mating surfaces.
I've seen some videos where people use 3m disks on the block. Any tips would be appreciated?
(https://i.postimg.cc/MTLnqDLJ/IMG-20230925-182117.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0SV9Scf)
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I'd avoid at all costs anything like abrasives that will throw gritty stuff everywhere, you'll never be able to get it clean down all the passages. Use a plastic or metal scraper.
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Look at 0000 grade wire wool or 3M non woven pads The white ones are the finest I think :thinking:
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I've ordered a carbide scraper. I think I have some fine wire wool. Will give it a go.
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Got a price of 264.02 EUROS from the stealers :surprised:
Head to block bolts 06D103385D 10
Adjuster Bolt 06D109281D 1
Head frame bolts N10554005 23
Crank pulley bolts N91143901 6
Timing belt N90945002 3
N90628303 2
N90597005 1
N91029602 1
N90596906 1
N10552402 2
oil pump bolts WHT000360A 1
N91149501 3 m7x58
WHT000006 4 m7x70
N10430502 1 m7x40
N91149601 1
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Did a bit more scraping. Are these mating surfaces clean enough?
(https://i.postimg.cc/9QNpYm9W/IMG-20230927-190523.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zyKKJ1pM)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wvDQzDGv/IMG-20230927-185616.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQDh9Gyd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wBCQnwFZ/IMG-20230927-190645.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mcS9HNvy)
Did one pass with the honing tool. Hopefully this Is ok :scared:
(https://i.postimg.cc/HsgPrkwR/IMG-20230927-194316.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kDTyZ9hv)
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Just get a Victor Reinz head bolt kit & Head gasket set.
Timing belt, VW change supplier like shirts - get a kit from continental/gates/Dayco/INA all have been OEM suppliers, whatever kit comes cheapest with water pump
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Had another go at the bores with a different honing tool.
Much happier now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XJh176MS/IMG-20230930-200001.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R67LX8VX)
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Looking good :happy2:
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Started lapping the valves.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MKbvXN1G/IMG-20231005-193926.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKs8Phn6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/y8LxyRQ4/IMG-20231005-194014.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CRfwFRpm)
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Made a tool to remove the exhaust cam sprocket.
Hopefully next week all the parts will arrive
(https://i.postimg.cc/1Rj7jgxT/IMG-20231022-103707.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Dm1cWwwd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CxyPwWxs/IMG-20231022-104727.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w7VcV4J1)
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Set it like that myself. Hopefully timing will be correct when we start it up and check with vcds.
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Something is wrong I cannot get the exhaust cam to tdc mark it will spring forward of back and not stay on it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/g0yGZSb1/IMG-20231027-120334.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gwJ99KJK)
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I have heard of that happening on the 2.0 TDI motors, but not the TFSI.
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Just red the whole story…😱 but…
You’re on the right track :happy2:
Now what I can See on your head…is your intake cam mounted correctly??
The cam locking tool must go in between the spares from the cams… I don’t see the openings in the intake cam?? Or am I wrong??
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:scared1: I marked the chain correctly but put it one the wrong way round.
I still can't get it to stay at tdc it spins forward or backwards?
Going to buy some new bolts on Monday.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mZm4JsJD/IMG-20231028-182025.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JtHSH91V)
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My adjuster is sitting two teeth furter out. If i take off will it go back to normal?
from video i followed
(https://i.postimg.cc/wvH28hdD/Screenshot-2023-10-29-at-20-32-22.png) (https://postimages.org/)
Mine
(https://i.postimg.cc/hjydyx4D/IMG-20231029-202605.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HcMnjr7R)
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Mystery solved :sick:
(https://i.postimg.cc/hjHQw6zG/IMG-20231031-190558.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qhx76mGf)
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Pistons are in
(https://i.postimg.cc/3xXmDbBV/IMG-20231101-131648.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SnKJBdHf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MpSt4Brk/IMG-20231101-144219.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xc6KNX2g)
(https://i.postimg.cc/DysBB66d/IMG-20231101-155336.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yk1mNFwk)
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Not long now :party: the 18/19 link method was not good for me.
(https://i.postimg.cc/yxG7FKcv/IMG-20231109-212409.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WqMRvQ9k)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1RVRQnQd/IMG-20231110-212634.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Rq9x10q1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Sxdkrc6n/IMG-20231110-212643.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TKKz2LHx)
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Looking good. fingers crossed for a happy start-up!
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Good news and bad news.
It runs :jumpmove: :pomppomp: :star:
Bad news
Coolant leak from the elbow that connects to the block.
In vcds block 93 phase position is -18
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Timing seems off. Are you getting ~28kw actual in group 94? Here's how mine look.
(https://i.postimg.cc/25pccnp9/IMG-20231027-175615-resized-20231113-055741750.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bZT9dDw1)
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maybe i should try the 18/19 method again? Currently its 19/20
But i could not get the locking tool in.
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18/19 is what we did when we put it back together. We had no locking tool to check but it turned out to be spot on.
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:sick: :sick: :sick: :sick:
With 18/19 link method it's worse
(https://i.postimg.cc/FKVMTrP0/IMG-20231116-210815.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wt34vpYB)
When I did 19/20 links
(https://i.postimg.cc/05XbtxFg/IMG-20231112-WA0004.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xqHf8r9g)
Why is the 18/19 link method not working?
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Damn, that looks way worse. Only things I can think about are the actual camshaft install into the head, the locking tool should slide in there without any force or wiggling if all is set properly. Either that or the timing belt side, are you certain that it's on spot? Here's two photos of how my cam positions looked with the current timing I have.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BQPY07gS/IMG-20231020-162315-edit-250004807265878-resized-20231117-112453589.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Whj6mnCC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RZrPV1sc/IMG-20231020-164333-edit-250011384083011-resized-20231117-112453132.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0bfGVSqQ)
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Damn, that looks way worse. Only things I can think about are the actual camshaft install into the head, the locking tool should slide in there without any force or wiggling if all is set properly. Either that or the timing belt side, are you certain that it's on spot? Here's two photos of how my cam positions looked with the current timing I have.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BQPY07gS/IMG-20231020-162315-edit-250004807265878-resized-20231117-112453589.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Whj6mnCC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RZrPV1sc/IMG-20231020-164333-edit-250011384083011-resized-20231117-112453132.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0bfGVSqQ)
Thanks for the pics
The belt side looks good.
Even when the head was off i could only get the locking tool in at 18/19 links with a lot of wiggling.
I suppose i will set back to 19/20
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Now it's back to 19/20 pins
(https://i.postimg.cc/TYhZwLQ3/IMG-20231118-151133.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YhKXDSJ5)
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Checked my bottom timing mark.
(https://i.postimg.cc/kgcxX9M7/IMG-20231118-173316.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k22Vf0tH)
After a spin to the shops phase position bank 1 is now -16
No other errors
(https://i.postimg.cc/vBXjWCvy/IMG-20231118-211746.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YGGb7nVD)
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Mine used to be -9kw on group93 with the old engine. I'd run it but fk do I know :stupid:. Group 91 looks good with actual meeting requested. A bit baffling though as mine and all the others i've seen request 28kw at idle vs your 24kw, was that with the engine up to temp? Maybe someone with more experience can chime in.
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Mine used to be -9kw on group93 with the old engine. I'd run it but fk do I know :stupid:. Group 91 looks good with actual meeting requested. A bit baffling though as mine and all the others i've seen request 28kw at idle vs your 24kw, was that with the engine up to temp? Maybe someone with more experience can chime in.
Yes it was up to temp. The motor is an axx maybe this is why some readings are different.
Going to drive it for a few days to see if it improves.
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AXX being a bit different makes sense since they used slightly different cams vs my older BYD and this CDL, had CDL cams on the BYD aswellso maybe that's why I'm getting the 28kw.
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The car has done a thousand km now. The fluid levels were good until yesterday when I noticed a patch on the floor. I think it's from the water pump.
(https://i.postimg.cc/y83LpZVx/Whats-App-Image-2023-12-18-at-19-19-39.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0zxGbrK1)
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Replaced the water pump with an original one. No leaks so far. I triple checked the timing belt. Still the same cam adjustment readings.
I would like to replace the cams if anyone has a set of second hand cams please let me know.