MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: bobby_fodge on January 16, 2020, 01:27:31 pm
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Hi, I now have an in car oil pressure gauge. Does anyone know what the minimum the pressure should be when on the move?
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At least 2.0bar (30psi) at 2000rpm when hot.
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At least 2.0bar (30psi) at 2000rpm when hot.
Hmm. My oil gauge can show as low as 20psi when engine is fully warm and revs are 1.5k.
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What happens if you increase to 2k rpm?
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What happens if you increase to 2k rpm?
pressure goes up. Being a DSG and leaving it in drive means the car chooses to stay in gear when the revs are 1.5k rather than change down.
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Does it increase to over 30 psi? If it does i'd be ok with that.
edit - just saw it's still giving you low pressure warnings on the oil cooler thread.
sad face...
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Does it increase to over 30 psi? If it does i'd be ok with that.
edit - just saw it's still giving you low pressure warnings on the oil cooler thread.
sad face...
What are you thinking? Dying engine?
It's not blocked pickup pipe as they was replaced at Xmas as was the oil pump.
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If you've had the oil pump etc changed then sadly it's got to be a clearance issue on the base engine (crank journals etc)
I have read before that a failing TFSI HPFP seal can dilute the oil and cause this issue.
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At startup pressure is 70psi then drops down to 35/30psi when idling at a steady 800rpm.
Will driving it with the pressure at 20psi do harm to the engine?
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If you've had the oil pump etc changed then sadly it's got to be a clearance issue on the base engine (crank journals etc)
I have read before that a failing TFSI HPFP seal can dilute the oil and cause this issue.
Oh poop. What engine work is needed to fix that or is it new block time?
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I'd say the harm is already done if you're getting oil warnings. :sad1:
How many miles is on it?
To rectify would be done a couple of ways like new bearing shells poss a crank grind, or a replacement block.
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I'd say the harm is already done if you're getting oil warnings. :sad1:
How many miles is on it?
To rectify would be done a couple of ways like new bearing shells poss a crank grind, or a replacement block.
Just under a hundred, I've had it since 60k, oil and filter changes every 3-5k. I might source a block and get it reconditioned. Is there any way of 100% veryifying the damage without taking the engine apart?
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At startup pressure is 70psi then drops down to 35/30psi when idling at a steady 800rpm.
Will driving it with the pressure at 20psi do harm to the engine?
That sounds normal for cold pressures. So when it's hot, it drops to 20psi at 1500rpm, but pressure increases with revs? If that's the case, the oil pump is working as it should but I can't find the oil pressure specs for the GTI engine online, so can't tell you what numbers you should be seeing when hot.
Regarding the above, oil pressure is created by the resistance to flow, i.e. rod/main bearing clearances, cam bearing clearances, and the little holes that feed tappets and tensioners etc. If any of those things leak or wear out, oil pressure can reduce. You would know if you had worn out con rod or main bearings though as the engine would have a few death rattles......but having said that.....engines suffering from sudden oil pressure loss (such as blocked pick ups) can massively accelerate bearing wear.
Yeah, you would need a rebuild or new engine if the above is the case :sad1:
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At startup pressure is 70psi then drops down to 35/30psi when idling at a steady 800rpm.
Will driving it with the pressure at 20psi do harm to the engine?
That sounds normal for cold pressures. So when it's hot, it drops to 20psi at 1500rpm, but pressure increases with revs? If that's the case, the oil pump is working as it should but I can't find the oil pressure specs for the GTI engine online, so can't tell you what numbers you should be seeing when hot.
Regarding the above, oil pressure is created by the resistance to flow, i.e. rod/main bearing clearances, cam bearing clearances, and the little holes that feed tappets and tensioners etc. If any of those things leak or wear out, oil pressure can reduce. You would know if you had worn out con rod or main bearings though as the engine would have a few death rattles......but having said that.....engines suffering from sudden oil pressure loss (such as blocked pick ups) can massively accelerate bearing wear.
Yeah, you would need a rebuild or new engine if the above is the case :sad1:
Do i have to stick with the AXX block? I don't want to buy any ancillaries to work with a different code engine. I need the car on the road for as long as possible hence me thinking of getting the block and then swapping it with my current one.
Ta for all the help with this, it's bad news but I just want the oil pressure issue sorted.
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I'd say the harm is already done if you're getting oil warnings. :sad1:
How many miles is on it?
To rectify would be done a couple of ways like new bearing shells poss a crank grind, or a replacement block.
Just under a hundred, I've had it since 60k, oil and filter changes every 3-5k. I might source a block and get it reconditioned. Is there any way of 100% veryifying the damage without taking the engine apart?
You'd need to plasti-guage the crank and rod bearings to be sure, but that's a massive faff of a job. As a rough check you can drop the sump and oil pump and see if there's any play in the rods. You'd definitely hear it when revving the engine if they were shot though.
I can't see it being fooked at 100K though.....but if it is, any other engines take your fancy? CDL, Audi 5 pot, 7R engine? :happy2:
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I'd say the harm is already done if you're getting oil warnings. :sad1:
How many miles is on it?
To rectify would be done a couple of ways like new bearing shells poss a crank grind, or a replacement block.
Just under a hundred, I've had it since 60k, oil and filter changes every 3-5k. I might source a block and get it reconditioned. Is there any way of 100% veryifying the damage without taking the engine apart?
You'd need to plasti-guage the crank and rod bearings to be sure, but that's a massive faff of a job. As a rough check you can drop the sump and oil pump and see if there's any play in the rods. You'd definitely hear it when revving the engine if they were shot though.
I can't see it being fooked at 100K though.....but if it is, any other engines take your fancy? CDL, Audi 5 pot, 7R engine? :happy2:
I just don't have the cash to upgrade to another engine. In a bit of a pickle as I don't have enough money to buy another car but how much do I keep plowing into mine?
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Yeah it does come down to cash unfortunately. None of the options are cheap. It's worth confirming it's dead/dying first though. Listen for rod knock when it's hot and do a compression test.
The bigger stuff at dealers have higher discounts if you have a good relationship with them. For example, my dealer knocked a DMF and clutch down from £1400 down to £750 all in. A brand new CDL long block (block and head with cams, cam cover etc) is £4K retail. If you flutter your eye lashes at the parts man, I'm sure an AXX long block can be had for a reasonable price. That would be a brand new engine obviously.
If the car's a keeper and you want the minimum of fuss, it's what I would do personally. Rebuilds are never the same as a factory engine. They always use more oil (honing isn't as good as factory) and the rebuild cost isn't far off a factory engine when all's said and done.
Or there's a used low mileage engine off ebay option, but there may not be many decent AXXs out there as they're all getting on a bit now.
Sorry mate, it's a bit of a sh1tter. I wouldn't fear the worse just yet. Does it drive OK other than suspected pressure problems? Power OK or is sluggish?
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Yeah it does come down to cash unfortunately. None of the options are cheap. It's worth confirming it's dead/dying first though. Listen for rod knock when it's hot and do a compression test.
The bigger stuff at dealers have higher discounts if you have a good relationship with them. For example, my dealer knocked a DMF and clutch down from £1400 down to £750 all in. A brand new CDL long block (block and head with cams, cam cover etc) is £4K retail. If you flutter your eye lashes at the parts man, I'm sure an AXX long block can be had for a reasonable price. That would be a brand new engine obviously.
If the car's a keeper and you want the minimum of fuss, it's what I would do personally. Rebuilds are never the same as a factory engine. They always use more oil (honing isn't as good as factory) and the rebuild cost isn't far off a factory engine when all's said and done.
Or there's a used low mileage engine off ebay option, but there may not be many decent AXXs out there as they're all getting on a bit now.
Sorry mate, it's a bit of a sh1tter. I wouldn't fear the worse just yet. Does it drive OK other than suspected pressure problems? Power OK or is sluggish?
Drives absolutely fine, no drop in power. I've done loads to the car in the 2 years I've had it, the handling and braking are now excellent and I was only today telling a mate its my favorite car. I couldn't afford 4k. I always go to TPS rather than VW for my parts so I've no relationship with their parts dept. I need to work out some costs and see which i can afford.
And, just found out the company I work for have been put up for sale.
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Doesn't sound like there's much wrong with it tbh. Until we know what the actual oil pressure specs are, it's not worth getting hung up on that just yet. What oil do you use? Try a 0 or 5W/40 if not already.
Likewise, I love how mine drives in spite of the 140K old engine starting to feel a little tired.
Sorry to hear that. If it's any consolation, I've been made redundant twice in as many years. It's quite common these days but a buy out doesn't necessarily mean you'll be shown the door.
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It's got Millers CFS 5W40 Nanodrive in at the moment.
I need the car to take my little girl to school in and then I go onto work in it. I'd really struggle if the engine just seized up, no public transport options.
I know, this will be the 4th company take over i've been involved in and the months of uncertainty each one has involved can get frustrating. We've skipped holidays some years as i didn't know if i'd be out of job. The first take over one involved 1/4 company getting the chop. Second one wasn't that brutal but still people went, and the 3rd was hardly noticed.
I'm off to drown my sorrows on ebay looking at cars I'll never buy.
Appreciate the help Pudding.
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Yeah likewise. I'm currently an IT field engineer so 100% rely on the car. I'd be buggered without it. Touch wood it seems to be soldiering on like a trooper. I've probably just jinxed it now :doh:
Fingers crossed nothing drastic happens. I've lost count of the amount of 're-orgs' I've been through.
Found some oil pressure info, albeit for a BPY engine, which is similar to an AAX I believe - https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/eos_(1f7)/l4-2.0l_turbo_(bpy)/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/engine/engine_lubrication/oil_pump_engine/engine_oil_pressure/component_information/testing_and_inspection/oil_pressure_and_switch_checking_1_pin_oil_pressure_switch/page_4610/
The spec is '2.7 - 4.5' bar at 2000rpm, at 80 deg C. Seems like yours is way off spec then. Bummer.
I could be thinking of someone else, but did you do the balance shaft delete? Could that be a contributing factor? Maybe you just need a new oil pump?
Yeah neck a few bevvies mate :drinking:
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Yeah likewise. I'm currently an IT field engineer so 100% rely on the car. I'd be buggered without it. Touch wood it seems to be soldiering on like a trooper. I've probably just jinxed it now :doh:
Fingers crossed nothing drastic happens. I've lost count of the amount of 're-orgs' I've been through.
Found some oil pressure info, albeit for a BPY engine, which is similar to an AAX I believe - https://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/eos_(1f7)/l4-2.0l_turbo_(bpy)/engine_cooling_and_exhaust/engine/engine_lubrication/oil_pump_engine/engine_oil_pressure/component_information/testing_and_inspection/oil_pressure_and_switch_checking_1_pin_oil_pressure_switch/page_4610/
The spec is '2.7 - 4.5' bar at 2000rpm, at 80 deg C. Seems like yours is way off spec then. Bummer.
I could be thinking of someone else, but did you do the balance shaft delete? Could that be a contributing factor? Maybe you just need a new oil pump?
Yeah neck a few bevvies mate :drinking:
I had new oil pump at xmas. The balance shafts were locked solid but I fitted a VIS freewheeling oil pump sprocket with the new pump.
Thanks for the info.
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Right, called VW about a new engine, the AXX/BWA is £2613 for a short block and £5646 for a long block.
I'm ruling out the CDL, which is £3173 for a short block as the blocks are on an exhange basis.
If i don't stick with my current engine code i'd have to provide then with a used CDL short block.
My head would then need a skim and new headgasket, headbolts, cambelt and then building up with the new block and my existing ancilleries and fitting back into the car. This is going to cost 4k easy.
Would I be able to re-use my camchain?
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And if I control the oil level normally, but constantly the indicator shows that the pressure is too low. What could be the problem? Maybe I incorrectly calculate the oil consumption, but for this, I even checked 100 times with the information that I found on the Internet in various reference books. The last one was https://cararac.com/engine_oil/ (https://cararac.com/engine_oil/) and I am sure that this is not the problem it remains to drive the car probably to the service center?. But now our centers are closed due to the large number of people infected with the coronavirus, and it remains for me to understand this problem myself. I'm just not a mechanic and I don't know what to do. Thank you if you can help me. Sincerely, Sarah