Post by: Clarkj93 on February 10, 2021, 10:56:50 pm
This is just going to blog my very very slow progress of turning the golf into a track car, I'm currently buying a house so hence the very slow and very budget progress lol but doing what I can!
Here she is when first bought:
(https://i.postimg.cc/bNVsfdRp/20181125-134641.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/svSVpj8N)
And here is a cool pic I took few years ago at 6am at cheddar gorge lol ( great morning drive if any of you are local by the way ):
(https://i.postimg.cc/2yc8YXh2/20190428-080736.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/m19GNjdH)
Had the car at Llandow circuit recently bone stock with nothing but ate type 200 brake fluid. She went well, was expecting it to be a bit of a mess but no was quite surprising. Fair amount of understeer and quite slow to change direction but not bad at all! I had a cool down lap every 3-5 or so laps just to look after the old stock pads and discs.
Winter means jobs to do!
This explains the small hint of surface rust on the sills!
(https://i.postimg.cc/L68GZsFq/20200928-152015.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NLZd3BMY)
Got some wishbones from an audi tt 3.2, swapped them and kept the tt solid bush
(https://i.postimg.cc/X71mK0ns/20201205-122213.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LnfxRwYP)
Went to fcm alignment in Bristol, set camber to 1.8 at front and 1.5 at rear. Not exactly race car settings yet but I'd rather increment than go from one extreme to the other. Can honestly say the balance has totally changed from just this alone, well worth mod.
Just changed discs and pads all round, brembo plain discs with black diamond pads. Very budget set up but will give it a trial at next track day!
Swapped pcv valve to a new one with new hoses as had a vacuum leak somewhere, huge difference in throttle response, obviously not been right for a while!
I'm a bit weird and don't really listen to music in or out the car so did a radio delete, took the pic before I slotted it back in place hence it looks a bit loose:
(https://i.postimg.cc/wM4HZfmH/20210108-122818.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4Hcrh1PF)
Took some interior bits out just to check weight out of curiosity. Some of you may be interested....
Spare wheel and tool kit: 18.4kg
Rear seats (bench and backs): 29.9kg
(https://i.postimg.cc/qMQjVfq2/20210103-111549.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hfz9T59G)
Fitted it all back for now but will try and experiment at how it effects handling at next track day by taking stuff out at lunch time maybe.
Just fitted tow strap because why not. Its an adjustable trs one, bolted to furthest bolt away from radiator that ties crash bar to chassis. From what I've found its safe to do so as it will only be used to load on a trailer via this. And well... if I'm wrong... its just a piece of tin at end of day lol!
(https://i.postimg.cc/FK0Svcpw/20210210-172227.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1g5Xc8LK)
Will be taking it to Llandow again hopefully in April. Next job outside of maintenence is going to be suspension, likely coilovers and probably b14 from bilstein. If you have some suggestions for a budget track build though I am all ears!! :smiley:
Feel free to offer suggestions/opinions or criticise me for doing everything wrong and half arsed lol.
Hopefully the wallet allows some more updates soon....
Cheers!
Post by: Mekaniko on February 11, 2021, 01:32:28 pm
Remove the ineterior is OK, but maybe I would wait for it unti is mor a track car as for me the GTI is a good ClubSport compromise and can be confortable and efective at the same time.
Keep posting!
Post by: Clarkj93 on February 11, 2021, 02:12:46 pm
I don't know much about hsd. Do they make a set for the mk5? Cannot seem to find a set after a quick Google search anyway...
Post by: colesey on February 11, 2021, 05:36:34 pm
Post by: Mekaniko on February 15, 2021, 10:21:19 am
I would love to but cannot really justify the cost of them right now.... and suspension is on its way out so thought b14 might be a good ok priced alternative. Maybe its just worth waiting until I can get the good stuff on there though.... rather than do a half arsed attempt.
I don't know much about hsd. Do they make a set for the mk5? Cannot seem to find a set after a quick Google search anyway...
B14 is an excelent suspension you will never regret, but as you say that you are on budget just check for more options track focused before the purchase.
Post by: shannon-ob on February 20, 2021, 09:43:53 am
I have BC Coilovers on mine and they've been great.
Post by: Clarkj93 on February 20, 2021, 10:30:48 am
Post by: shannon-ob on February 20, 2021, 01:06:55 pm
I've been following your build thread, very impressive mate :happy2:
Thanks man, appreciate that! Some big updates to come once all the parts get here...
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 05, 2021, 01:36:04 pm
Bought a magnetic sump plug, never used them before but seems a popular thing to do:
(https://i.postimg.cc/FsfvbTpT/20210305-131333.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8jVxNBqv)
Also got a can of liqui moly injection cleaner, used redex a few times and not noticed any difference but i hear people raving about this one so thought why not its under a 10er so.
If anyone here is a bit of a fuss pot with pressure guages like me then found an ideal solution, I had a sealey digital guage which was accurate but the quick release connector was a nightmare I found, so essentially I bought another guage to swap the connector a clip on chuck one instead.
Basically bought these two here https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sealey-tyre-pressure-gauge-digital-with-swivel-head-quick-release-tst-pg98-seatst-pg98/ and https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/sealey-tyre-pressure-gauge-with-clip-on-chuck-tst-pg6-seatst-pg6/ and took the secure fitting clip on chuck from the latter and with a 14mm spanner and a pair of grips and a lot of force wound it onto the digital one so it was air tight. Now I have an accurate guage with a solid connection and a bleeder valve :)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZRkHg5z9/20210304-102217.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Y43QLk9k)
Post by: shannon-ob on March 08, 2021, 04:26:26 pm
If it was me, I'd probably be selling that 5W/30 and buy 5W/40 for track.
Have you looked in to the BC or Relentless coilovers? Very good bang for buck!
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 08, 2021, 04:51:23 pm
I bought a Gold Plug sump plug for mine.
If it was me, I'd probably be selling that 5W/30 and buy 5W/40 for track.
Have you looked in to the BC or Relentless coilovers? Very good bang for buck!
I was 50/50 about the oil tbh... the fact that someone else has mentioned it has convinced me to change! Just ordered millers nanodrive 5w40.
Yeah I have, they seem to go for a bit more than b14 and tbh I've read a lot less durability issues from bilstein than I have bc racing which is kind of swaying me.
Post by: shannon-ob on March 08, 2021, 05:12:48 pm
I've had my BC's about 2 years i think now with zero issues - and i thrash the car. Mother has had them on her scooby for about 9 years, only thing that's ever done was a top mount, it was being daily driven for about 6 years! :happy2: Just clean them every now and then and they'll be sound.
Either way good suspension/brakes are a great mod for these. Brakes for mine was a great one to do. Standards just didn't cut it for me. Plus, quarry corner at nearly 130mph with little to no brakes is not fun, at all.
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 08, 2021, 05:26:03 pm
Post by: shannon-ob on March 09, 2021, 12:11:32 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 09, 2021, 02:20:03 pm
We both have the BR series that came with pillow ball top mounts. On the golf was only the fronts and had to swap the rears.
Did it come with adjustable drop links as well? Some of the pics I've seen looks like it has front drop links but not rears?
Post by: shannon-ob on March 09, 2021, 02:23:39 pm
We both have the BR series that came with pillow ball top mounts. On the golf was only the fronts and had to swap the rears.
Did it come with adjustable drop links as well? Some of the pics I've seen looks like it has front drop links but not rears?
Not adjustable no. Just normal mate.
Post by: Xcore on March 09, 2021, 10:09:01 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 09, 2021, 10:28:46 pm
Il be at thruxton on the 15th! Either in a red r53 mini or a standardish ed30!
Nice mate! See you there :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 19, 2021, 05:12:20 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/nVBY7Wf3/Screenshot-20210419-150550-Whats-App.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dDQyc41C)
Been a busy boy in the last week with buying a house and a great trip to Thruxton.
The black diamond pads did not fair too well, although they did have a nice feel to them but I had to keep an eye on them throughout the day and did not have much confidence in them in heavy braking zones, thinking of giving pbs pads a go, they sound like a reasonably priced but very capable option.
Trying to keep the momentum up through goodwood and church really made me realise just how badly I need new suspension... I like how much bang for your buck you get with bc racing but as this is a real budget build I'm not ruling out the cheaper durable, durable and simple bilstein b8 dampers with eibach (b12 kit) or vogtland springs.
Its very hard to tell as the suspension is old and worn now but fairly often when under high lateral load I could feel something strange in the rear of the car... almost feels like a slight dab of the rear brakes making me think its the stability kicking in all the time? Either that or the compression of the rear dampers being so soft over bumps or just because its knackered, hopefully it will go away with a refresh, if anyone has had issues with stability control on track though let me know your findings!
Tyres are pretty dead now so a good excuse to change for some ns2r's finally. Weirdly though as its a mostly right turn track like most circuits are... my tyres on the right hand side seem to be in a worse state with blistering and some cuts on the tread.... would have assumed its just heat related as the tyres were overheating quite often as you would imagine being normal road tyres but as ots only my tyres on the right I'm wondering if its kerb related? While I hit some of the kerbs I avoid the super aggressive ones and the ones I did hit did not feel like they were aggressive anyway? See below:
(https://i.postimg.cc/1XhdBNz2/20210416-085157.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N9DbfFmk)
Post by: rich83 on April 19, 2021, 05:55:00 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 19, 2021, 06:01:59 pm
Post by: shannon-ob on April 21, 2021, 10:07:40 am
Do you know what condition the rear bushes are in?
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 21, 2021, 11:25:00 am
Not at all jealous you've got out this year :sad1:
Do you know what condition the rear bushes are in?
Not so good I imagine, pretty sure they are factory.
Post by: shannon-ob on April 21, 2021, 12:49:50 pm
Perhaps look into replacing/upgrading them mate. If you want powerflex, I can do 15% off retail pricing.Not at all jealous you've got out this year :sad1:
Do you know what condition the rear bushes are in?
Not so good I imagine, pretty sure they are factory.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 21, 2021, 02:07:17 pm
Perhaps look into replacing/upgrading them mate. If you want powerflex, I can do 15% off retail pricing.Not at all jealous you've got out this year :sad1:
Do you know what condition the rear bushes are in?
Not so good I imagine, pretty sure they are factory.
Oh thats very interesting. May take you up on that sometime soon!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Mekaniko on April 21, 2021, 04:06:02 pm
Regarding the tires, this tyre profile still quite good to have a track use but a semi-slick tyre will be a game changer, AR-1 will do a excelent job on it!
I have B12 on my GTI and it's a good suspension for daily driving but for track use I would not recomend it as it is too soft, go for BC ;) and specially if you will go for the slick tires.
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 21, 2021, 06:53:36 pm
Maybe you can change your rims for a 17' ones? Less weight as the OEM ones are very heavy as far as I know, pro-track are very good on quality-price.
Regarding the tires, this tyre profile still quite good to have a track use but a semi-slick tyre will be a game changer, AR-1 will do a excelent job on it!
I have B12 on my GTI and it's a good suspension for daily driving but for track use I would not recomend it as it is too soft, go for BC ;) and specially if you will go for the slick tires.
Wheels are on my list and yeah probably will just get a set of ns2r for now but would like to have a spare set of ar1's for dry use. Ahh i assumed as they are monotube and up rated they may be OK but fair enough sounds like bc racing is deffo the way to go.
Post by: Mekaniko on April 22, 2021, 08:10:09 am
Did you know about Zestino? Good tires for the money.
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 24, 2021, 08:13:19 pm
Yes, Ar-1 are very good tires but will not work if the track is not dry.
Did you know about Zestino? Good tires for the money.
Not heard of them actually. Dry only sort of semi slick? Or ok for wet track work as well?
Post by: Mekaniko on April 28, 2021, 05:46:55 pm
Yes, Ar-1 are very good tires but will not work if the track is not dry.
Did you know about Zestino? Good tires for the money.
Not heard of them actually. Dry only sort of semi slick? Or ok for wet track work as well?
Never driven it on wet track but I heared good reports from it.
https://zestinoeurope.eu/semi-slick/
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 01, 2021, 01:36:03 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/Dwc1B0Yv/Screenshot-20210426-114240-You-Tube.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9Dr4fmhK)
Don't notice it at speed but turns out the kerb at church is actually just a cheese grater which explain the tyres I think!
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 01, 2021, 01:47:29 pm
If anyones interested let me know, some brief details are:
Just over 100k
Fsh
One side skirt is black and one is red so may need painting if it bugs you
2 brand new good year eagle f1 tyres to be fitted in the next week
New brembo discs with black diamond pads front and back in the last 1000 odd miles
Cam follower and pcv and pcv hoses changed in the last 1000ish miles
Major service done by me in October about 2000 miles ago
Oil change and filter (5w40) done less than 1000 miles ago in March
Exterior is decent but has typical age related marks, and mis matched side skirt interior is very good
Will be sticking radio, fog grilles etc back on
Audi tt wishbones and ball joints for adjustable camber
Ecs magnetic oil plug
Got the following spares to go with:
Front Audi tt alloy hubs
2/3 spare oil filters
Haynes manual
Fog grille(s)
Copper oil washers for oil plug
And probably some other little nic naks lying around in the garage that I've forgotten
Just spending the weekend/week getting it ready so should be up for sale next sunday/Monday I imagine.
Post by: Mekaniko on May 03, 2021, 02:28:31 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 03, 2021, 02:37:40 pm
Well done, e36 time ;)
Haha! Seen a couple come up but a lot of rust boxes about!
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 22, 2021, 04:34:29 pm
Annoyingly put some new standard good year road tyres on to sell but now stuck with them. Not sure when the next track day will be yet... got a few jobs to do and we will go from there.
Currently in the middle of measuring up and making some brake ducts... got a few trinkets arriving soon that I can test fit. If people are interested I may do a d.i.y thread for the ducts as I notice there isn't much info at all out there for the mk5 and brake ducts.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7ZpvQxbp/20210522-144033.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qNXZNHsL)
Post by: shannon-ob on May 23, 2021, 08:55:53 am
I may be interested in brake ducts.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 23, 2021, 09:20:58 am
Post by: bobby_fodge on May 23, 2021, 11:52:27 am
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 28, 2021, 09:22:58 pm
Having a quick poke around, hoping to keep the dust shield and place the duct here via riveted air outlet to get the air through the veins of the discs rather than just hitting it. We will see! May end up scrapping the shield if it doesn't not work round and simply aiming the duct at the centre of the discs via some cable ties. As you can see it's like a sea of rust behind there right now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/MKTYtnxq/20210526-192925.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bd7bwNsB)
Got some Audi TT hubs recently for the weight saving and the higher roll centre it adds, slightly regretting it now however as I've realised I need the steering rack, drive shafts, steering arms and code out the rack.... seems a lot of work so may leave it for now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7LysBqm9/20210503-142905.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXp1vRFQ)
Got some new RP-X and RP-1 pads delivered. Awesome Gti doing a deal where you get one set for free for buying the other. Essentially 350 quids worth of pads for half the price. Think it runs until the end of the month, seems like an awesome deal to be fair so jumped on it. Heard good things about these so far so looking forward to check them out, quite an aggressive bedding in process as well, will probably require doing it on track or a 6am country road job!
(https://i.postimg.cc/3R938SkM/20210528-172037.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xJkwgPGg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/136Pn58r/20210528-172457.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tsX88bts)
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 05, 2021, 04:37:59 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/kMhWzjRT/20210605-115313.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JtZyB5qX)
I've just added a few cable ties to keep it semi stiff and lots of tape to protect it from rubbing against other components.
(https://i.postimg.cc/LXFmJFWx/20210605-132741.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z9HGQ24N)
I've just noticed aswell there is some very minor rubbing on the tyre where it enters into the front bumper area which is a bit annoying so I will try to drill another hole further back in the hope there is more clearance. It was only at full lock to be honest but just in case il give it another go soon.
(https://i.postimg.cc/4NmjRFLy/20210605-132821.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ppMsDktM)
For the inlet section I've not decided whether to go front fog delete and cut into the bumper slightly to mount it or just have it hanging behind the open fog grille area with some cable ties, this way I can keep fog lights and have a sort of grille to stop big chunks of crap getting in but it's not as stable then obviously.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1XLkjGZJ/20210604-190103.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N2kCyrFH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/66k6SRck/20210604-141310.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/MXY8fnh5)
This is just a little update for now, once I'm happy with the setup and it's survived a couple of road miles i will do a proper write up!
Any suggestions so far then I am all ears! :popcornsoda:
Post by: rex on June 07, 2021, 08:15:46 pm
Here are a few thoughts:
- If you have the RLine grills - it is far easier to install the brake ducts - I also cover them in winter for example.
- You can have a mounting point above the suspension arm
- I also used the dust shield to install the other end, but I covered a part of the tube to direct the air towards the vanes and not the disc side.
Here are a few photos (I think I will update the brake dusts thread when I have some spare time):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/807/27739991068_c494259ff5_o.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/786/41568780132_1d76b31121_o.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/875/41568730942_de37094b65_o.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/809/41568728292_86910e24f3_o.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/861/41608775241_47f4cf893d_o.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/839/41568777212_33b808b8c7_o.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/871/41608777681_f60daa5be8_o.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/813/41568775722_4eba292020_o.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/872/41608785781_22884c25ca_o.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/919/41568781412_9b074e929f_o.jpg)
Hope this helps!
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 07, 2021, 09:41:54 pm
I've since read this article: https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog/do-i-need-brake-ducts-on-my-track-car
Which has made me realise its not that pointing it to the inner face is not ideal its likely causing disc issues down the line.
I've since removed this duct as I've been re thinking what to do, your implementation is interesting. Part of me has also been tempted to do this solution, not sure how effective it is thoigh as its not really brake ducting it's more increased air flow via a duct pointed to the hub area and removing the dust shield.
(https://i.postimg.cc/h41G6Tn3/70x4IOq.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/144PNgfp)
Post by: rex on June 12, 2021, 01:27:08 pm
Quote
Part of me has also been tempted to do this solution, not sure how effective it is though as its not really brake ducting it's more increased air flow via a duct pointed to the hub area and removing the dust shield.Not really... It is providing air to where the disc actually needs it.
With this setup the brakes were performing great (absolutely no fade), even when really abused. Please keep in mind I have a 160hp car and the nqsbbk (Porsche Calipers) with RS29 pads.
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 12, 2021, 01:42:55 pm
QuotePart of me has also been tempted to do this solution, not sure how effective it is though as its not really brake ducting it's more increased air flow via a duct pointed to the hub area and removing the dust shield.Not really... It is providing air to where the disc actually needs it.
With this setup the brakes were performing great (absolutely no fade), even when really abused. Please keep in mind I have a 160hp car and the nqsbbk (Porsche Calipers) with RS29 pads.
I meant the picture I posted above rex, I've no doubt of your solution!
Post by: rex on June 12, 2021, 09:11:52 pm
As a conclusion, no matter which way you go, the more air you get in the wheel arc the better...
Here is how Porsche is cooling the brakes on my GT4 (the air is coming from the radiators):
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50911939728_da9c72f683_o.jpg)
Best of luck!
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 13, 2021, 12:07:42 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on August 03, 2021, 09:18:45 pm
Current list of things to do until she's track ready again is:
- Sort out surface rust on sills and bent/slightly rusty jacking points
- Install bucket seat and subframe
- Install stud and nut conversion
- Install coilovers and drop links (bc racing br I'm thinking), uprated top mounts and dog bone insert
- remove all dust shields for cooling
- change Cam follower
- oil/ air filter and brake fluid change
- fix misfire on Cylinder 1 (fuel injector seems most likely!)
- alignment ( maybe corner weighting? Not sure whether to figure out the height that's ideal first via trial and error and also the rake to find a balance I like first rather than pay 200/250 for corner weighting only to have to sort it again a month or 2 later because I've adjusted the height or rake?)
As per recent posts I ended up just routing the ducting to the wheel arch for better air flow, done a fair few miles on the road without front dust shields and no issues. Easy Install just cut a hole in the arch liner and get some inlets and outlets, drill holes in them so you can zip tie to them to the arch liner and rhe front grilles.
(https://i.postimg.cc/k41LNdjb/20210614-091051.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/njmdZNfF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zfksBhKp/20210614-095830.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bGsCVs62)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tTCLVgzb/20210623-073101.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/f3pHGDFq)
Ignore that extra random hole! Will re route them go via the fogs at some point and do a fog light delete for ease of access and disassembling and also because it allows me to add another duct to a cold air induction kit via the fog grille in future!
Bought some silicone hoses to replace the badly fitting and oil weeping boost pipes:
(https://i.postimg.cc/c4M2TY5W/20210713-110926.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JG0pzyLY)
Buggers to get on mind, I gave up in 30 degree heat so will have to try again soon.
N80 valve change for a suspected evap fault along with silicone charcoal cannister hoses:
(https://i.postimg.cc/7LCBvTXf/20210727-172500.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z9SPpnGS)
Currently examing the rust on the sills and jack points, seems to be all surface rust though which is good so plan is to straighten the damaged under body seam, cut off loose seam sealer and paint in por-15 Anti rust paint. I may give the sills and behind wheel arch area a gentle sanding first to get most of rust off and then apply por-15 followed by a rattle can touch up in the oem colour, pretty ghetto job but as long as its not rusting I'm happy.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sX47bjFM/20210802-185028.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZ7sxH4b)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XNx98Ych/20210803-201234.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K4kKcFWr)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BQVDr7zB/20210803-201257.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ppKp8CRm)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Gh2GSnXp/20210803-201335.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V5xJdpQy)
I've seen pics of people having rust issues due to the side skirts Letting moisture in and it sitting there forever, I've taken mine off and tempted to just fills these screw holes with something and go side-skirtless as they're a pain to take on and off and just cause issues anyway... need to mull that one over
(https://i.postimg.cc/zXVHFSfb/20210803-201306.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZCzqTNp4)
Also anyone know what this silver box is on drivers side behind wing?
(https://i.postimg.cc/J4DtkrTj/20210803-200846.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xcQ0r2Vd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Cxb1cvp1/20210803-200852.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WdbT3w3L)
Post by: bobby_fodge on August 03, 2021, 09:24:03 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on August 03, 2021, 09:33:40 pm
isn't the horn in there?
Well spotted. Forget to mention that if you remove the horn, you can beat the top of it pretty easily until its flat, this will allow you to rotate it to a position you are happy with and then tighten it up.
Not the best picture, but simple enough and easy to execute:
(https://i.postimg.cc/SK6p05gX/thumbnail-20210422-181159.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sBgL7ndy)
Post by: Shoduchi on August 18, 2021, 05:21:00 am
Post by: Eighteen88 on August 18, 2021, 08:24:44 am
The silver box is the alarm horn. It fails frequently with age.
Yeah this what it is, recently had to replace mine and it was a twat of a job removing it!!
Post by: Clarkj93 on September 03, 2021, 10:16:56 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/vZHvQYDc/20210804-122304.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vcknhdrs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/k4xSQzD0/20210804-175644.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Pp5Nh6Wy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XYJ9RsD5/20210808-160655.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VdxSMWws)
(https://i.postimg.cc/RVCttPmY/20210808-161342.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z0g0txCP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CLvqsjLx/20210808-164438.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2VZyzLZs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GtdyqKyH/20210809-201720.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ftqybx5N)
(https://i.postimg.cc/13jDsDLj/20210810-194105.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tsFsznR3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FRtcJNFb/20210812-195008.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v1zDJRVD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fbwHLVsG/20210904-082211.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/870dXPj4)
if it protects some vulnerable areas for a bit longer and slows down some corrosion I'm happy.
Also been tackling a misfire due to system running lean, mainly cylinder 1. Been scratching my head a bit with it so thought I'd do a bit of a overhaul. New intake, carbon cannister hoses and silicone coolant hoses, along with some silicone boost pipes.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y9cn25JZ/20210819-200317.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SXr7DvQf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sXpnMnzX/20210831-201127.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Pp5bcQPs)
Everything is from creation motorsport. Been happy with the quality but the throttle body hose I've had to leave off the car, I just simply cannot get it to fit onto the throttle body even with heating it up and using lubrication. It's just about 1 or 2mm too narrow. I've even tried taking the throttle body off the car just to check if I can get it on off the car but still no. Got a forge one in the post to check if its creation motorsport short coming or me being a wimp.
After doing a few hoses as mentioned I noticed this vacuum leak...
(https://i.postimg.cc/TYPZs6GJ/20210830-165743.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fk6231VV)
Looking around I noticed this brake booster vacuum section is quite hard to come by, autodoc sell it for about 25 quid, ebay specials sell it for about 45 quid. I have not check but I heard from vw it's over 100 quid... I ultimately decided to very carefully cut the cracked and hardened hose off the ribbed connectors and place a 9mm samco silicone vacuum hose on instead from Merlin motorsports, fits perfect and no chance of it popping off and in total cost me 9 quid so il take that as a win.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vTWqTf1d/20210904-082243.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/T53qHyqk)
Just waiting on some new jubilee clips for some hoses, pop in the new coolant, stick the intake back on and hopefully we will be running reliably again! Got lots of orders arriving in the next month, so should be some cool updates to follow shortly.
Post by: LC5F on September 04, 2021, 11:34:44 am
Looking around I noticed this brake booster vacuum section is quite hard to come by, autodoc sell it for about 25 quid, ebay specials sell it for about 45 quid. I have not check but I heard from vw it's over 100 quid... I ultimately decided to very carefully cut the cracked and hardened hose off the ribbed connectors and place a 9mm samco silicone vacuum hose on instead from Merlin motorsports, fits perfect and no chance of it popping off and in total cost me 9 quid so il take that as a win.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vTWqTf1d/20210904-082243.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/T53qHyqk)
Just checking that the pipe you fitted has has webbing inside the silicone?
If its a basic silicone hose with no reinforcement is will flatten itself under vacuum - leaving you with no vacuum assist
Nice work on the rust - that was a task I wanted to do this summer, but other things got in the way - whats the black paint you used before undercoat?
Post by: Clarkj93 on September 05, 2021, 10:31:27 pm
The hose is this https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/samco-9mm-silicone-vacuum-hose-per-metre-vt9b3w
It's advertised a vacuum hose solution so I assumed it would be fine? But yeah from memory it is a albeit quite thick but basic silicone hose.
Post by: LC5F on September 06, 2021, 05:31:22 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on October 05, 2021, 08:22:02 pm
New intake
New genuine pcv
New pcv hoses
Checked and re gapped spark plugs
Replaced some vacuum tubing
New genuine DV
New silicone coolant hoses
New carbon cannister silicone hoses and n80 valve
New silicone boost hoses
New fuel filter
None of this fixed the issue but it means she has had a bloody good service! It's got to be an injector playing up so booked in with r tech for 27th Jan for inlet valve blasting, injector cleaning (replace if necessary) and stage 1 tune. Would have liked to go stage 2 but after all the bits I've bought lately and a wedding to plan/pay for I don't know if I can justify getting a sports cat downpipe and intercooler as well... unless someone has some cheap spares knocking about :laugh:
Here's some shiny stuff:
Racing line stud and nut conversion kit
034 motorsport top mounts and bearings
Ecs tuning rear top mounts
Powerflex black dogbone mount insert
Braided lines
Silicone pcv hoses
Forge silicone TB hose
Cam follower kit
R8 coils
(https://i.postimg.cc/mkZ5PBmC/20211005-140809.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2bJwJRRS)
Whiteline adjustable roll bars and drop links. Rear was simple to get on really, I've not even attempted the front, looks like a disaster about to happen, will get it fitted at some point.
(https://i.postimg.cc/c42FSRGQ/20210922-132140.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Mv070jTT)
Big 1mm sheet of aluminum, the plan here is to make a sunroof delete panel when I find the balls to drill holes in my roof!
(https://i.postimg.cc/xTw379L5/20211004-113631.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dL9CZPHZ)
Last things on my shoping list before tracking again now are bucket seat, coilovers and tyres.
Keep toying between keeping a full interior now with a bucket and then chuck it all out when I hopefully get a cage next winter or just take it all out now...
Coilovers will go on after r tech session in Jan so to make sure no issues getting on the dyno. Always changing my mind on these but narrowing it down to (for now at least):
B14 - some say too soft and b16 is quite a bit more but excellent quality
Bc racing - I hear some genuinely fast guys who are happy with the BR setup, I also hear some other fast guys who say the valving is generic and so they're poor, the DS setup is a bit more and a lot less info on them but this sounds like a possibly good track option for not much more money.
Gaz gold - hear very good things for performance and lots of race cars running these that do well in championships and it can be tailored for your needs also when built, I also hear they don't tend to last very long... my father in laws scooby had these, not sure how old they were but the rears were knocking like he'll and the damping adjustable knobs had siezed on some of them.
Tyres will be nankang ns2r as I only have 1 set of wheels and these supposedly will do OK in wet and decent in dry.
Post by: JoshB on October 06, 2021, 10:55:31 am
I want to strip my arches and skirts at some point to clean them up so enjoyed those pics, cheers.
I had Gaz Gold and Nankang NS2R’s on my old Mk1 MX5. Completely different style of car but on a dry day on smooth tarmac it was like being dragged round corners by Spider-Man. On wet days on bumpy B roads, it was like Bambi on ice... and yes I did soften up the damping before hand. They’re good quality though Gaz. Had some on a Saxo for 5 years and they looked as good as new when the car got stripped.
Post by: LC5F on October 06, 2021, 05:37:56 pm
Great shocks and (at the time) cheap to get serviced/rebuilt by Gaz themselves.
Post by: pudding on October 07, 2021, 04:20:34 pm
That strange brake stabbing feeling at the back most likely is the ESP kicking in. Mine's done it loads of times.....and actually got me out of a few pickles over winter, so I leave it on. Not that you can disable it anyway :grin:
I wouldn't recommend Gaz unless they've improved their build quality. Yeah they work well because the head honcho is ex-Leda and a damper guru, but the quality was awful on my 'Gold' coilovers. Mine rusted out super fast (first winter!) and then the chrome plating started flaking off the damper rods shortly after :doh: They were genuinely shocked and apologetic by that, but the damage was done, I lost faith. They did work extremely well though, thanks to getting assistance from Julian at Balance Motorsport to help me choose spring rates etc.
I wouldn't describe B14s as too soft, the exact opposite in fact, on the road at least.
The advantage of brands like BC Racing is you can specify spring rates, but if the valving is generic across 1.4 through R32, that isn't much use.
This is exactly the problem with suspension, no one kit ticks all the boxes unless you triple, or even quadruple the budget.....and then it's no longer a budget track car :grin:
Anyway, keep up the good work and get those injectors replaced :wink:
Post by: shannon-ob on October 10, 2021, 09:08:41 am
Glad you’ve sorted the rust before it gets too bad (like mine was)
Front ARB is a pain to fit
subframe down job!Keep up the good work man
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 07, 2021, 08:10:44 pm
We could all talk coilovers forever and never decide haha.
Not much to update yet as needed the car for a few trips, thankfully I can retire it again now for a while and can start some work.
Added a square duct where the passenger side fog light used to be as an air inlet to the intake (which may or may not do anything)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BvjYwXMN/20211107-161003.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wtdQ1TKs)
Had to do a fog light delete then on the drivers side as well then. Pretty proud that I used the bottom of a tin that I was about to throw in the rubbish and just used a permanent marker to paint it black, then cable tied it in place. Recycling level = master.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wj7Q9nLj/20211107-160956.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k2Pbc1T0)
So yeah couldn't bare fiddling with the side skirts after a failed first attempt. Instead got a decal removed rubber wheel drill bit and took all the residue tape off then stuck in some screws with a washer and simply painted them red with a touch up pen. Looks okay now. I got some jack stickers to go on as there is no longer any arrow markings to the jack points now the skirts are gone. This is primarily for tyre shops who don't always take car when jacking up the car...
(https://i.postimg.cc/vT1wV9YB/20211107-160838.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sGRLFMZd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bwffZsKy/20211107-160841.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vchNjHYk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pXFtVDcc/20211107-160849.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/svsLwZr5)
Added some forge motorsport gold tape to the intake.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TPZ44SfR/20211024-174123.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2q7Gq01J)
I lost the locking wheel nut after driving off with it still in, very annoying. However I realised a spline bit works just as well... made me laugh as its not the best anti theft wheel nut if that's possible!
Hopefully things will get more interesting now I can crack on with a few bigger jobs!
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 18, 2021, 10:05:29 pm
Carried out the pre cat delete...
(https://i.postimg.cc/zDw4dQFN/20211113-145136.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dD1W34fN)
New non-res miltek exhaust
(https://i.postimg.cc/J7T54c1J/20211115-132547.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/c6nnF3t4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/y8RmPM0X/20211115-132556.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BjqPZwYX)
Not taken it out yet but happy with the miltek so far, welds look fantastic to a noob, sounds oem on idle and can hear a louder rasp up to about 3k, not tested it further than that to try and not piss off the neighbours.
Annoyingly one of the clamps that links to the original downpipe is not quite the right size. Can only getting it tight by tightening it to the point the bolt is bent. Looks worse in real life than the pics.This is the 2nd bolt after the 1st snapped and its still leaking, albeit very minor as can only detect it via a bit of water in a spray bottle. Got another brand of clamp in the post so will give it another go with that.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gjDzm29q/20211118-141834.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vx4FvMZc)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1XPmkNd3/20211118-141848.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qhbHng0P)
As I lost the locking wheel nut thought it was a good time to get the studs installed
(https://i.postimg.cc/K8TWMszC/20211117-141727.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Wd2SR807)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KYyHrr3j/20211118-141215.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HrBzTM21)
Booked into VW for cambelt late December. Next il change the oil and fix that very minor exhaust leak and all ready for rtech stage 1 in Jan :)! If I didn't have to budget for bushes and coilovers and a bucket seat, tyres etc. then would love to just go ko4 but sods law I guess, well over 300bhp is great until you cannot stop or get around bends!
Post by: LC5F on November 19, 2021, 05:09:53 pm
Annoyingly one of the clamps that links to the original downpipe is not quite the right size. Can only getting it tight by tightening it to the point the bolt is bent. Looks worse in real life than the pics.This is the 2nd bolt after the 1st snapped and its still leaking, albeit very minor as can only detect it via a bit of water in a spray bottle. Got another brand of clamp in the post so will give it another go with that.Those clamps are a lot nicer than the ones Cobra give with their exhausts - those are more like scaffolding clamps - if the replacement doesn't work out, Look at Mikalor W4 all stainless clamps - nice and wide plus they really clamp solid.
Booked into VW for cambelt late December.This contradicts the thread title!
How much in "track days" are they going to charge?
With older cars, dealers tend to give them to the inexperienced staff to learn on, add that to Xmas/hangovers/distraction it's not a great recipe.
It's a straight forward job - have you considered doing it yourself?
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 19, 2021, 06:33:30 pm
This contradicts the thread title!
How much in "track days" are they going to charge?
With older cars, dealers tend to give them to the inexperienced staff to learn on, add that to Xmas/hangovers/distraction it's not a great recipe.
It's a straight forward job - have you considered doing it yourself?
Do you know what I was going to ask what people thought but thought I'd see if anyone confirmed my suspicions that it might not be a good idea...the only other places I've found either want fortune to do it or are miles away and don't fancy taking a day off to sit in someone's garage drinking coffee for 4 hours for a poxy cambelt.
The idea of doing it myself did occur but I'm scared :grin: I did see the cambelt and waterpump kit up for 320 quid at aks tuning the other day and was like well if just the kit Costs that much... maybe it's cheaper from VW I've not checked.
You've confirmed my doubts anyway so will cancel at VW.
Post by: LC5F on November 20, 2021, 11:36:09 am
Best tip I leant years ago is to get a pint pen, mark the timing marks on the cover, the pulleys and also the old belt, then copy the belt markings to the new belt - old belt stretches, so count teeth to be 100% sure - once the belt is on slowly turn the engine over by hand 2 full rotations to confirm cam and crank timings line up - note the crank is usually very slightly out.
Hardest parts are getting the engine mount & timing cover off/on the engine - the 2 timing cover bolt at the bottom of the cylinder head are tricky to remove/install - make sure you have a good selection of T30 bits
When I did mine, it did turn into a saga, but with both the timing belt slipped and cam chain spun - it was a worst case with everything out - yours being a running engine it should just be swapping new for old.
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 20, 2021, 06:31:37 pm
I used INA kit, the stuff I replaced was genuine and everything but the pump & belt were marked INA - I got my kit off ebay it was only £101.
Best tip I leant years ago is to get a pint pen, mark the timing marks on the cover, the pulleys and also the old belt, then copy the belt markings to the new belt - old belt stretches, so count teeth to be 100% sure - once the belt is on slowly turn the engine over by hand 2 full rotations to confirm cam and crank timings line up - note the crank is usually very slightly out.
Hardest parts are getting the engine mount & timing cover off/on the engine - the 2 timing cover bolt at the bottom of the cylinder head are tricky to remove/install - make sure you have a good selection of T30 bits
When I did mine, it did turn into a saga, but with both the timing belt slipped and cam chain spun - it was a worst case with everything out - yours being a running engine it should just be swapping new for old.
Hmm you've given me a bit of boost to give it an attempt myself. I think I'll get some parts and maybe have a crack myself then. It looks simple when you see d.i.y's it's just the worry of making a catastrophic error by being an idiot!
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 20, 2021, 06:37:17 pm
Post by: blingsta on November 21, 2021, 09:20:58 am
Sorry chaps didn't realise you all commented. Thanks for all the bits of info and encouragement!!
We could all talk coilovers forever and never decide haha.
Not much to update yet as needed the car for a few trips, thankfully I can retire it again now for a while and can start some work.
Added a square duct where the passenger side fog light used to be as an air inlet to the intake (which may or may not do anything)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BvjYwXMN/20211107-161003.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wtdQ1TKs)
Had to do a fog light delete then on the drivers side as well then. Pretty proud that I used the bottom of a tin that I was about to throw in the rubbish and just used a permanent marker to paint it black, then cable tied it in place. Recycling level = master.
(https://i.postimg.cc/wj7Q9nLj/20211107-160956.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/k2Pbc1T0)
So yeah couldn't bare fiddling with the side skirts after a failed first attempt. Instead got a decal removed rubber wheel drill bit and took all the residue tape off then stuck in some screws with a washer and simply painted them red with a touch up pen. Looks okay now. I got some jack stickers to go on as there is no longer any arrow markings to the jack points now the skirts are gone. This is primarily for tyre shops who don't always take car when jacking up the car...
(https://i.postimg.cc/vT1wV9YB/20211107-160838.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sGRLFMZd)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bwffZsKy/20211107-160841.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vchNjHYk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pXFtVDcc/20211107-160849.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/svsLwZr5)
Added some forge motorsport gold tape to the intake.
(https://i.postimg.cc/TPZ44SfR/20211024-174123.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2q7Gq01J)
I lost the locking wheel nut after driving off with it still in, very annoying. However I realised a spline bit works just as well... made me laugh as its not the best anti theft wheel nut if that's possible!
Hopefully things will get more interesting now I can crack on with a few bigger jobs!
mate.... where did you get the blue hoses from under the bonnet please?
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 21, 2021, 09:54:37 am
Post by: blingsta on November 21, 2021, 10:46:40 am
can i ask how much it cost you please
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 21, 2021, 10:52:06 am
cheers fella.. :happy2:
can i ask how much it cost you please
Here they are...
https://creationsmotorsport.com/silicone-carbon-canister-hose-kit.html
https://creationsmotorsport.com/2-0-fsit-turbo-silicone-9-piece-coolant-hose-kit.html
I opted for the jubilee clips so came in at about 130, they're heavy duty clips and very good quality. The standard flimsy clips on Amazon won't cut it, need something a bit beefy like the jubilee ones they provide.
Post by: blingsta on November 21, 2021, 12:15:02 pm
cheers for that mate
Post by: blingsta on November 21, 2021, 12:24:56 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 30, 2021, 09:43:01 pm
Checked the DV which has covered under 1000 miles and had this small crease which looked bad at first. But took it apart and the crease had sorted itself, just refitted and made sure it was tight enough with some loctite this time, no change.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mknN92mL/20211123-175239.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fSx9nZ4p)
Ordered some new seals for the boost pipes and clamps and will change the throttle body hose for forge one I have laid about. Did some logs and looked OK to me, could just be me tbh but just double checking it's all good and R Tech don't send me home empty handed in Jan.
Feels like I'm charging this thing all the time.... the few times I actually want to test drive it its always dead :doh: the beast that is the fiat 500 in the back ground, she's trading it in for a audi a1 next year I think, getting into the golf after driving that little thing makes it feel like a bus in comparison.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9MrvHzwV/20211120-144956.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tZGrhqzm)
I came across this book recently, Great Xmas read for any setup geeks. Most interesting part I found was how it debunks a lot of poly bushes as when the grease gets pushed out after said weeks or months they start to bind to the inner steel tube and don't offer proper rotation anymore (squeaking noises are evidence of this apparantally). I notice super pro seem to have a couple of differences to most other manufacturers to keep hold of grease for longer periods and stop it being pushed out, in my mind anyway they sound far superior after reading this.
Chassis Engineering HP1055 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1557880557/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_29GYX4G6BS1QF386VW3C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So! After mentioning God knows how many times this year, finally settled on coilovers. I was settled on the idea of replacing all bushes with super pro and gaz golds but costs were growing, life is getting seriously expensive with a wedding being planned additionally and this is a budget track build after all... so decided I need to get this to a good baseline that I can work to improve over time otherwise il get carried away and it will be 2023 before it turns a wheel, I'm aiming to have it on track by April I hope.
Picked up a set of B14's in the black Friday sale for 750. Great price and I know they will be durable and do the job for now and leaves me some budget to spend on other things. Plus should be easy enough to sell these on when it's time to upgrade.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9Fnbs1t4/20211130-112225.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VdXXCqh1)
Not sure when il fit these yet. R Tech specify to keep to stock ride height but I'm sure these at their highest setting would be fine on the rollers? Got enough jobs to be getting on with between now and Jan anyway and with Xmas coming up not sure il get time until after the session anyway! Just hope the clutch doesn't give in immediately :doh: I think it's the original one with 104k on it.... if it lasts until the end of next year il count that as a win.
Post by: bobby_fodge on December 01, 2021, 10:34:13 am
Post by: JoshB on December 02, 2021, 12:06:12 pm
B14’s are a great choice. Your tyres will make a bigger difference on track than upgrading those to be honest.
Post by: Clarkj93 on December 02, 2021, 12:15:52 pm
Do you not fancy chucking a eBay special £100 downpipe on it before you go to R-Tech? Would get you another 25bhp.
B14’s are a great choice. Your tyres will make a bigger difference on track than upgrading those to be honest.
Nah I know what you mean but then I go down the path of while I'm there I may as well go ko4 conversion and s3 intercooler as well and then things ramp up. Main reason for going is to clean inlet valves and clean/replace a and any other dud injectors, just the fact they have a deal on that they can chuck a tune on as well for only 650 in total, would be silly to say no. Plus I can't be asked with taking it on/off for MOT each time.
Yeah will be sticking ns2r's on in spring while I've just got a single set of wheels.
Post by: JoshB on December 04, 2021, 10:01:56 am
I’ve just had that done last week and I didn’t want stupid power. The only reason I replaced my CAT with a 200cel sports CAT is because the stock one was playing up and could do with replacing, so I thought why not.
You get switchable maps as standard so I’m happy to keep mine on either map 2 or 3. But nice to know I can ramp it up to full power if I want to.
There’s a company on eBay at the minute that fabricate exhausts and do a decat downpipe for £100. Would be interesting to ask how much they’d charge to weld in a Magnaflow 200cel CAT in as well...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-GOLF-MK5-MK6-GTI-FSI-T304-DECAT-AND-DOWNPIPE-3-BORE-SUIT-70MM-2-75-SYSTEM-/133943135534?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Post by: pudding on December 04, 2021, 01:06:25 pm
I came across this book recently, Great Xmas read for any setup geeks. Most interesting part I found was how it debunks a lot of poly bushes as when the grease gets pushed out after said weeks or months they start to bind to the inner steel tube and don't offer proper rotation anymore (squeaking noises are evidence of this apparantally). I notice super pro seem to have a couple of differences to most other manufacturers to keep hold of grease for longer periods and stop it being pushed out, in my mind anyway they sound far superior after reading this.
Chassis Engineering HP1055 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1557880557/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_29GYX4G6BS1QF386VW3C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not sure if that book mentions it, but the worst thing about poly is a problem known as 'creep and set', which is where the bushes compress/squish into a particular position and stay like that, almost like plastic. My Whiteline ALK did exactly that. Basically, the hole in the middle of the bush ovalised, causing all sorts of nasty tramlining and twitchy steering, especially over winter when the bushes are less compliant. I currently have the SuperPro ALK in and they'll be coming out for rubber bushes when I get around to it. Most like Audi A2 as they're solid rubber and much thicker than the S3 bushes.
As always, it comes down sales fluff convincing you rubber is cack and poly is best, when the exact opposite is true. You never see OEMs using it. It's either rubber, or rose joints on the high end track focused cars :happy2:
Anyway, those coilovers were a steal! They might irritate you a bit of harsh roads but on the track they'll do well :happy2:
Another good read - https://balancemotorsport.co.uk/car-suspension-repair-maintenance-and-modification-book-by-julian-spender.html
He's a top man and the Custom Gaz Golds he tuned for me were bloody brilliant.
Post by: pudding on December 04, 2021, 04:08:06 pm
So car feels a little sluggish in 3rd and up at about 3.5k onwards. Its currently got about 80/100kg of tools/equipment in boot and back seat so maybe that's a contributor but I swear I can hear boost escaping at about 3500 rpm occasionally.
Checked the DV which has covered under 1000 miles and had this small crease which looked bad at first. But took it apart and the crease had sorted itself, just refitted and made sure it was tight enough with some loctite this time, no change.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mknN92mL/20211123-175239.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fSx9nZ4p)
I had the same issues, which seemed to be DV related. Really flat off boost and needing more throttle than usual to hold a steady speed. I remember R-Tech saying they experimented with stiffer springs in the Rev G, so instead, I stretched the standard one a bit which seemed to do the trick. It's a lot more responsive and punchy now. Worth a go on yours.
Post by: Clarkj93 on December 06, 2021, 11:47:53 am
I came across this book recently, Great Xmas read for any setup geeks. Most interesting part I found was how it debunks a lot of poly bushes as when the grease gets pushed out after said weeks or months they start to bind to the inner steel tube and don't offer proper rotation anymore (squeaking noises are evidence of this apparantally). I notice super pro seem to have a couple of differences to most other manufacturers to keep hold of grease for longer periods and stop it being pushed out, in my mind anyway they sound far superior after reading this.
Chassis Engineering HP1055 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1557880557/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_29GYX4G6BS1QF386VW3C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not sure if that book mentions it, but the worst thing about poly is a problem known as 'creep and set', which is where the bushes compress/squish into a particular position and stay like that, almost like plastic. My Whiteline ALK did exactly that. Basically, the hole in the middle of the bush ovalised, causing all sorts of nasty tramlining and twitchy steering, especially over winter when the bushes are less compliant. I currently have the SuperPro ALK in and they'll be coming out for rubber bushes when I get around to it. Most like Audi A2 as they're solid rubber and much thicker than the S3 bushes.
As always, it comes down sales fluff convincing you rubber is cack and poly is best, when the exact opposite is true. You never see OEMs using it. It's either rubber, or rose joints on the high end track focused cars :happy2:
Anyway, those coilovers were a steal! They might irritate you a bit of harsh roads but on the track they'll do well :happy2:
Another good read - https://balancemotorsport.co.uk/car-suspension-repair-maintenance-and-modification-book-by-julian-spender.html
He's a top man and the Custom Gaz Golds he tuned for me were bloody brilliant.
Not that I recall... yeah it seem poly bushes solve the problem of deflection and loosing geometry but is then the cause of quite a few more issues that can sometimes defy the reason for getting them in the first place. Maybe you're right, the full works or nothing, you don't see it on expensive oem track cars like a cayman gt4 out the box do you (I'm pretty sure anyway!), which I'm sure they would gladly add poly bushes to being as its a drop in the ocean of a 70 grand-ish car anyway if they served the purpose well enough.
Just ordered that book :happy2: I'm aware of balance motorsport but I cannot remember where I've come across them.
Post by: Clarkj93 on December 06, 2021, 11:50:54 am
So car feels a little sluggish in 3rd and up at about 3.5k onwards. Its currently got about 80/100kg of tools/equipment in boot and back seat so maybe that's a contributor but I swear I can hear boost escaping at about 3500 rpm occasionally.
Checked the DV which has covered under 1000 miles and had this small crease which looked bad at first. But took it apart and the crease had sorted itself, just refitted and made sure it was tight enough with some loctite this time, no change.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mknN92mL/20211123-175239.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fSx9nZ4p)
I had the same issues, which seemed to be DV related. Really flat off boost and needing more throttle than usual to hold a steady speed. I remember R-Tech saying they experimented with stiffer springs in the Rev G, so instead, I stretched the standard one a bit which seemed to do the trick. It's a lot more responsive and punchy now. Worth a go on yours.
Interesting idea. I had a rev g on before this one and it looked fine when I took it off and still looks fine now but did notice a difference sticking the new one in, maybe the spring is the trick on this occasion then. I'll mess about with the spare one I think.
Post by: Clarkj93 on December 23, 2021, 06:36:14 pm
New Hel stainless Steel brake line also on, I was surprised just how insecure these are with the oem clips, it took a mixture of bending oem clips, reversing oem clips and a couple cable ties to get these really secured and even then it's not stuck solid like the oem ones were but good enough I think.
No interesting pictures as of late and with Xmas in a few days I have to put the tools away for the rest of the year to avoid being shouted at so will leave you all with a rubbish one i just took with a gin and tonic in one hand and my phone in the other. Cheers!
(https://i.postimg.cc/yYsGsj7N/20211223-181343.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w342khyK)
Post by: Mekaniko on December 24, 2021, 10:04:58 am
Have a nice Xmas!
Post by: Clarkj93 on January 16, 2022, 06:20:31 pm
Anyway.... swapped the DV out and seems to stop letting go of boost for a 10th of a second randomly as it did before so that's sorted now.
Bonnet pins fitted, tbh I don't like how they look but I prefer them to a smashed windshield and damaged bonnet/a pillars. Aero catches are definitely better but at 10 quid thought I'd give them a go.
(https://i.postimg.cc/L5NHxC5R/20220112-130630.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/q66VRG2Z)
Been keeping an eye on the golf over last few weeks and finished all my jobs pre r tech appointment so she's supporting her own weight for a change and actually being used. Just realised a couple hours ago after popping to a mates house that the rear driver side caliper is siezed and the passenger side i think isn't quite perfect either.
That's an extra 200 odd quid for new trw ones that I could have done without, and got about a week to sort in pitch black after work when I get hold of a new set as I'm away on the weekend. So currently frantically researching my options for the rear calipers, any suggestions feel free to share!
To be honest I'm partly tempted to just cancel or post pone r tech for much later in the year, getting a bit tired of the costs coming out on what is meant to be a budget build, it was only to cure a idling misfire after all, not sure if that does any real engine damage and is worth fixing imminently hmmmm.
Post by: FatWelshBoy on January 16, 2022, 08:44:14 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on January 16, 2022, 08:47:41 pm
Search for aacore2015 on eBay, I had a pair of 41mm rear pistons from them for £125. I only needed the rear near side but changed both as the receipt, from previous owner, for my off side caliper was from ECP and they state 38mm pistons. I run 7R brakes upfront and the balance seems better since replacing both rear calipers.
Thanks will take a look. Are they the caddy calipers do you know? Think I heard they had a larger piston but same pad and disc size?
Post by: FatWelshBoy on January 16, 2022, 08:59:04 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on January 16, 2022, 09:00:56 pm
I messaged them for Caddy calipers and they got back to me saying that GTI calipers are avaliable in 38mm or 41mm pistons and they will supply the 41mm type if you specify them in the notes.
Looks like they refurb and sell on then, I'd be a bit wary on a refurb firm on ebay with such quick turn around time but reviews look good and if your experience is only good then maybe that's a good option, 100 quid saved also!
Post by: RBS on January 22, 2022, 11:59:07 am
Post by: Clarkj93 on January 22, 2022, 03:40:17 pm
@FatWelshBoy (https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=75735) thanks for the tip on those calipers :happy2:
Just got them delivered today and just finished fitting. Got the bigger 41mm set up as well. Few little gripes like they painted over some threads making screwing in the hard line tricky and one of the handbrake levers is not quite in the right position so does not have as much pressure on the handbrake cable as it should but seems to work OK, tbh for 125 quid cannot complain and their customer service was spot on.
One of the guide pin boots did split while installing but I doubt it's a major issue in the next 200 miles that I need it for.
(https://i.postimg.cc/PrhW6w9h/20220122-151708.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mhX1ktT6)
The sticky calipers do explain alot mind... why I've always felt this odd sensation in the rear of the car when under high lateral load on track, I always thought it was an over sensitive stability control scaring the life out of me but I bet it was these sticky calipers after all!
Post by: Clarkj93 on January 27, 2022, 09:36:41 pm
Their car park is for more interesting than a few car shows I've been to frankly as well.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Xv9nhKK4/20220127-080422.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XZ7MBCDz)
It was a bit of a trek and had to wait around in coffee shops all day waiting for the work to be done but I have to say bravo to the guys there. Amazing work. They confirmed cylinder 1 injector was dead so a used off the shelf one put in after cleaning that seemed good, it was free so can't complain if it doesn't last forever!
Interestingly they recommended changing my ecs tuning pcv pipes to oem ones as they know they work and they've seen some manufacturers pcv silicone hoses start to fold after a while under high pressure, decided to change just the bottom one for now as its fiddly and annoying to do the clamp!
The issue I've noticed with randomly seeping bost sometimes was never fixed it seemed, r tech said it was actually the rocker cover holding about 20 psi and then eventually letting go. After the map it's quite noticeable when on full beans in a high gear at about 3k. So that's on the list of things to do along with cleaning the broken oil dipstick bits out of the sump.
I was hoping for 260 but expecting about 250-255, I'm pretty sure the production gti championship is 260bhp maximum in the regs and fairplay at 259.7 you can't get much bloody closer than that!
(https://i.postimg.cc/fT3yC9PT/20220127-191132.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xc29TcYW)
After the inlet and injector clean 220-ish standard is pretty good as well tbh! I told them the purpose of the car, more of a occasionally driven on the road track car and am thinking about doing sprints/hillclimbs with it (probably road going car class) so for map 5 they added a "sprint map" to use for any timed events, just need to install the VIS internals and I can make use of it.
Can really tell that the TC is also much much more sophisticated, much less intrusive and could see it being a valuable aid in certain conditions considering its still an open diff.
But yeah feels far quicker, and the power band feels so more much linear not just off and on and sometimes a little flat like I've always known it to be.
I thought they would do a great job but tbh they did a brilliant job, this is nothing new to read though unfortunately as I know most people end up saying the same thing :grin:
Coilovers fitting next!
Post by: RBS on January 28, 2022, 07:27:41 pm
Had a look on the site of them and YouTube :happy2:
If the corona crap wasn’t so intense with all the checking and location forms, I defintively would consider to go R Tech :happy2:
The injector cleaning and stage 2+ sounds realy interresting!! :drool:
Post by: Clarkj93 on January 28, 2022, 10:20:48 pm
Looks like they know their stuff! :congrats:
Had a look on the site of them and YouTube :happy2:
If the corona crap wasn’t so intense with all the checking and location forms, I defintively would consider to go R Tech :happy2:
The injector cleaning and stage 2+ sounds realy interresting!! :drool:
Yeah I can see me looking at stage 2+ in the future also!
Post by: pudding on January 29, 2022, 10:29:37 am
I like the ride height of your car, nice and even gaps all round :smiley:
Glad R-Tech mentioned the rocker cover as it's often overlooked during diagnosis. They can indeed split apart internally, causing all manner of hard to trace PCV related issues. It was around £125 when I replaced mine a few years ago, so expect a hefty bill for one of those now, if it does need one.
Another problem area is the primary oil separator, which is part of the oil filter housing. The front and rear PCV outlets pass gases through that first and the pipes can get clogged up. As it's buried under the intake, it's another PCV part that gets overlooked.
Anyway, good numbers either way. Not a lot wrong with that engine :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on January 29, 2022, 07:11:36 pm
Good result :happy2:
I like the ride height of your car, nice and even gaps all round :smiley:
Glad R-Tech mentioned the rocker cover as it's often overlooked during diagnosis. They can indeed split apart internally, causing all manner of hard to trace PCV related issues. It was around £125 when I replaced mine a few years ago, so expect a hefty bill for one of those now, if it does need one.
Another problem area is the primary oil separator, which is part of the oil filter housing. The front and rear PCV outlets pass gases through that first and the pipes can get clogged up. As it's buried under the intake, it's another PCV part that gets overlooked.
Anyway, good numbers either way. Not a lot wrong with that engine :happy2:
Never thought about it but I guess you're right, rear has one crusty oem and one aftermarket spring and dampers are knocking a fair whack at the back now so maybe it's not meant to sit like that :grin: they're coming off as soon as I get some time and it's decent weather anyway.
Yeah frankly I never would have come that conclusion of the rocker cover, I have heard of them going but didn't know it could be so easy to mistake it for a different issue.
Yeah its nice to hear only a couple things to take care of and seems a healthy engine and turbo.
Post by: Clarkj93 on February 11, 2022, 10:37:54 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/1XZV2gsL/20220130-111654.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dk40TV7B)
NS2R's turned up this week also, aks tuning seem to be selling them at 95 quid each when everyone else is doing 115 each so thought I'd take advantage of what I guess is older cheaper stock before the price goes up like everyone else.
(https://i.postimg.cc/9MsYMFVp/20220208-134040.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Q9kTYDF9)
Had 1 or 2 conversations with the guys at retroresus lately, seem very knowledgeable lot on anything VAG specifically mk5 golf and tfsi and at only an hour away I'm thinking of getting them to do some jobs I don't fancy doing e.g cambelt, front anti roll bar, oil sump and pickup pipe cleanup etc. They've built a few Production Gti championships cars so keen to try and pick their brain on a few ideas in regards to suspension geo/setup, brake ducting and anything else that a pleb like me could make use of.
Post by: JoshB on March 06, 2022, 08:15:18 pm
I need some new ones on mine, it’s got Continentals all round with about 6mm+ tread on but they’re utter sh*te. Like driving on glass…
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 06, 2022, 08:28:09 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/j50BMf4r/20220217-194208.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DW6CZ8NC)
Not sorted ride height out properly, it's super low right now but will just let the shop work it out when it goes in for corner weighting.
Here is the old rear dampers, fully compressed (without struggle by hand) and the 2nd picture is several hours later... it rebounded an inch. Shows how dead they really were! Fronts actually did rebound but still not much resistance at all.
(https://i.postimg.cc/x1VHTT51/20220212-091236.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/56pjsJDh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/g2yhwFtq/20220212-091129.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SnsR55hJ)
Not get any good pics yet as she has not really moved:
(https://i.postimg.cc/8ktfgmJw/20220224-212446.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Wtq1Mr7J)
So not much left to do until she is back on circuit, brake fluid flush, new rear and front pads (ebc blue on rear and ebc rp-1 on front) and then taking it down to RetroResus in Taunton in April/May for a couple weeks where they're going to do a number of jobs that are beyond my skill and ones that I just want done (front anti roll bar fitting, cambelt, rocker cover gasket, clean out sump of left over dispstick bits and clean up pickup pipe) followed by corner weighting, not sure on alignmet settings yet I've told them what I think would work best but ultimately after their advice from their experience racing and building multiple mk5's.
I've recently removed my brake ducts... I realised what I had done really does not do anything :grin:. My plan is to see if there is any difference in brake temps by taking a measurement between the solid fog grilles and the open fog grilles. There are things like the ttrs brake dust shields that may add to this that are on my radar also.
Booked onto Llandow circuit on 11th June now, its a very reasonably priced circuit and only 30 mins from me now so it will make a good shakedown since all the work has been done since its last outing at Thruxton last year.
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 06, 2022, 08:36:22 pm
Looking good, I had those tyres on an MX-5 and they’re really good for the money.
I need some new ones on mine, it’s got Continentals all round with about 6mm+ tread on but they’re utter sh*te. Like driving on glass…
Yeah very reasonable and great if you only have 1 set of wheels. I hear mixed on Conti's, I saw the review from TyreReviews recently on the new sport contacts 7 and they're raving about them as being as close to a race wet tyres as a road tyre could possibly get, but I do hear people who say some (maybe older variants) are a bit skatey much like you describe.
Post by: RBS on March 08, 2022, 05:17:15 pm
Keep up the good work!!
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 10, 2022, 09:08:58 pm
Sunstrip applied, not the 1st attempt, a gust of wind took the first go :grin:
(https://i.postimg.cc/YCc12MZM/20220308-150404.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w7Vt089G)
New front and rear pads ready to go on:
(https://i.postimg.cc/MT4nsY8q/20220308-141855.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5YB9yL0R)
New race gloves and VP Racing fuel containers:
(https://i.postimg.cc/RFj7Dtr5/20220308-111530.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/34F0ydJn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Jny3xq25/20220310-161815.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQrZDpyM)
Did a brake flush other day (still not great pedal feel but safe for the roads for now) so could actually test drive. It is a night and day difference than the worn out oem setup, huge amount more grip.
Also got car booked in to RetroResus on 30th April for a couple of weeks. Doing various big and small jobs (dreading the final bill :sad1:). The most interesting one being the corner weight setup, had a good chat with them today about what to go for they're recommending around -2.5 to -2.75 neg camber on the front for a car that does little road miles but is predictable, they run -3.5- on their race cars, they said the mk5's are so planted on the rear it takes some work to dial our the understeer. They said they sometimes run 8mm of toe out on the rear to get rid of the under steer and rotate them nicely, exteme settings! They're going to take into account predictability if I enter it into a sprint/hillclimb where there is not much practice while still minimising understeer and doing their best to manage the power with its current open diff. Looking forward to what they come up with!
Post by: pudding on March 12, 2022, 12:07:56 pm
Looking good, I had those tyres on an MX-5 and they’re really good for the money.
I need some new ones on mine, it’s got Continentals all round with about 6mm+ tread on but they’re utter sh*te. Like driving on glass…
Yeah very reasonable and great if you only have 1 set of wheels. I hear mixed on Conti's, I saw the review from TyreReviews recently on the new sport contacts 7 and they're raving about them as being as close to a race wet tyres as a road tyre could possibly get, but I do hear people who say some (maybe older variants) are a bit skatey much like you describe.
The car is coming together very nicely indeed :happy2:
I saw that video about the ContiSport 7s and typically not available in 18". I used to really like the ContiSport 3 for it's ride comfort, low noise and light weight (yeah that's a thing :grin: ) but yeah, not the best in the wet or for steering feel. The Eagle F1 SuperSport are really good but at the expense of ride comfort.
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 12, 2022, 07:09:18 pm
Looking good, I had those tyres on an MX-5 and they’re really good for the money.
I need some new ones on mine, it’s got Continentals all round with about 6mm+ tread on but they’re utter sh*te. Like driving on glass…
Yeah very reasonable and great if you only have 1 set of wheels. I hear mixed on Conti's, I saw the review from TyreReviews recently on the new sport contacts 7 and they're raving about them as being as close to a race wet tyres as a road tyre could possibly get, but I do hear people who say some (maybe older variants) are a bit skatey much like you describe.
The car is coming together very nicely indeed :happy2:
I saw that video about the ContiSport 7s and typically not available in 18". I used to really like the ContiSport 3 for it's ride comfort, low noise and light weight (yeah that's a thing :grin: ) but yeah, not the best in the wet or for steering feel. The Eagle F1 SuperSport are really good but at the expense of ride comfort.
I've never tried them to be honest always stuck with Goodyesr being always as good or nearly as good as Michellins but usually a decent amount cheaper.think I would definitely try the 7 though!
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 19, 2022, 07:46:49 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/MpyPpjTm/20220311-180855.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hXtbCvVX)
Bedded in the new rear ebc bluestuff pads, feel a bit vague when cold but after a few sharp stabs to the brakes on the road they feel really good to be fair. As you can see the powder coating didn't fair too well after bedding them fairly aggressively this morning.
(https://i.postimg.cc/029d0H2D/20220319-075114.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vDSVQhnZ)
Just need to sand down the front discs and change the pads, bed in and flush the fluid again with race stuff and we're all ready really for Retro to finish it off before Llandow in June.
Off topic but new addition to the household, Mrs has bought into the VAG life style now as well. 1.4 tfsi 150bhp DSG. Great little thing, bit of a pocket rocket as well to be fair, don't expect a little car like that to pull like it does. As much as I tried she was never going to agree to a DSG mk5 gti :grin:
(https://i.postimg.cc/8zmhJdVw/20220317-154241.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dhD7gy3T)
Post by: RBS on March 20, 2022, 08:27:58 pm
And the Mrs Audi looks WAW :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 26, 2022, 08:21:19 pm
Car got its bi-annual clean today also :grin: have not seen it cleaned since Autumn... whoops :doh:
(https://i.postimg.cc/Bb9LMgXM/IMG-20220326-WA0005.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/d327XyCv/IMG-20220326-WA0009.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jnjdnCvk)
At £1.68 a litre currently for Tesco 99 I am greatly looking forward to the fuel bill at each track outing this year :scared: someone please tells me it's going to drop sometime soon!
Post by: pudding on April 02, 2022, 12:49:30 pm
Mine only gets a bi-annual clean as well :grin: It's been like this since September :grin:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51947771154_874f55497a_k.jpg)
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 02, 2022, 03:29:19 pm
That's looking mean as with the front end dropped down like that :happy2: Yeah you don't want grabby brakes on track, maybe that's what EBC mean by easy modulation.
Mine only gets a bi-annual clean as well :grin: It's been like this since September :grin:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51947771154_874f55497a_k.jpg)
Wow that is hero dirty :grin:! Good way to hide some stonechips and scratches!
Post by: RBS on April 02, 2022, 05:13:13 pm
You’ll have more satisfaction when you cleaned it thoroughly :jumpmove:
Post by: pudding on April 02, 2022, 06:48:40 pm
Yeah it sure gets driven, hard!
Some of that dirt is the dust from the Sahara but mostly just road dirt from neglect :grin: I'm more interested in how it drives than how clean it is but yeah, eventually blasting all that crud off will be satisfying :smiley:
Post by: RBS on April 02, 2022, 06:51:47 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 26, 2022, 10:51:07 pm
Changed from ECP's finest plugs to the recommended NGK ones. Nice little throttle response improvement too.
(https://i.postimg.cc/hvnQrWQg/20220423-102545.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4783f01F)
Brake fluid change so we are back on the race stuff. Motul RBF 660, the best value race fluid out there in my opinion.
(https://i.postimg.cc/JnNGt66F/20220330-155124.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N90gz4w8)
Ended up selling my VP racing fuel jugs to a local lad with a very nice stage 2+ ED35 after my local fuel station with 99 told me to get lost with those unapproved plastic race ones, so old fashioned jerry cans it is then!
Seems like yet another injector has died lately, even after R Tech cleaned them a few months ago... my luck!
Got bored today so made a radio blank, which I will eventually use to mount a fire safety stick ,(not msa approved but looks like a great fire safety solution) and the ESP button when the centre console ends up coming out. It could probably do with being painted black as well.
(https://i.postimg.cc/qBmj7jPq/20220426-153104.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rzrSnCF2)
My GTI is late enough that stability control is never fully disengaged. So I was able to alter it the other day on the OBDEleven app and alter it so one second hold is TCS off and 5 seconds hold is everything off. No more scary ESP moments from now on then!
Next she is off to Retro Resus for a couple of weeks for various jobs and corner weighting.
Post by: pudding on April 30, 2022, 12:18:52 pm
Interesting about the ESP and OBD11. Not seen anything in VCDS that can do that.....not that I know where to look :grin: To be fair, ESP has saved my arse a few times on some snow/ice so I leave it on :grin:
Our VW chum Humble Mechanic has a good comparison video, but in a nutshell, he reckons you need both to do everything, more so on later cars.
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 30, 2022, 08:52:22 pm
Yeah those plugs are good :happy2:
Interesting about the ESP and OBD11. Not seen anything in VCDS that can do that.....not that I know where to look :grin: To be fair, ESP has saved my arse a few times on some snow/ice so I leave it on :grin:
Our VW chum Humble Mechanic has a good comparison video, but in a nutshell, he reckons you need both to do everything, more so on later cars.
Found it by accident to be honest! Yeah I did watch that the other day! Would get vcds if I had a laptop to use, work would have me shot by firing squad if I downloaded it on the work laptop :grin:
Post by: LC5F on May 03, 2022, 09:52:07 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 03, 2022, 10:59:35 pm
I run my funny VCDS on a old low powered netbook that I bought for £80 maybe 10 years ago - it doesnt need to be special
Yeah valid point, just always find it hard to justify when you buy even a cheap notebook and then buy vcds, just think of the parts I could have bought with that instead when obdeleven does majority of what I require. Im sure il get it one day when I'm fed up of the compromise!
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 14, 2022, 05:49:10 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/KvJmgCtX/20220514-102726.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QH92246S)
Engine wise they did...
- Rocker cover gasket change
- cambelt and waterpump
- oil sump dropped and cleaned as well as pick up pipe
- injector 2 replaced
Then a few little suspension and brakes bits as well as corner weighting with geo setup.
I could have done a little bit more myself but I've been fed up lately and wanted it just done :grin:
Forgot to get the alignment printout from them but what they told me over the phone was:
Front:
-2.2/-2.3 Degrees neg camber
1mins toe out
Rear:
-1.6/-1.7 degrees neg camber
Zero toe
They did this based on a hot pressure of 30 psi, seems a little low to me, put It to 34 psi now. Will just have to experiment, let me know what you guys run? :happy2:
They said it weighed in at a touch over 1400kg, not sure if that was with my 70kg weight added in as well though. May get it on a weigh bridge at some point out of curiosity, I've taken roughly 35kg of the oem weight from various upgrades and removal of little things here or there.
Weirdly they said it was almost perfectly corner weighted as it was... I had not even measured it I couldnt be arsed I just stuck it on at a random height and left it :grin:
Had a bit of tyre rub over big bumps when I got back to cardiff. Taking the torx screw from the arch liner out and slightly bending/filing the edge of the arch solved that nice and easily.
Now all ready for Llandow in June and the charity track day at Combe in July :laugh: will probably make it to Thruxton soon as well, one of the most under rated circuits in my opinion, but as its a tyre killer maybe later in the year!
(https://i.postimg.cc/kMxfgmKc/20220514-111149.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w3jhwnWy)
Hopefully it's just a case of maintenance and enjoy for a while now, I'm thinking if everything is reliable and oem clutch still has life in it then winter will be Strip it and put a cage in!
Post by: JoshB on May 30, 2022, 06:39:46 am
I’m surprised that you’ve got more negative camber at the front than the rear… but they are front wheel drive I suppose…
I can imagine that “cheap” bill still hit the wallet hard! But it’s good to know that ittl be put to good use on track. I hope to see some videos of your runs!
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 30, 2022, 02:18:13 pm
Looking nice and should be good to go for a fair few miles now.
I’m surprised that you’ve got more negative camber at the front than the rear… but they are front wheel drive I suppose…
I can imagine that “cheap” bill still hit the wallet hard! But it’s good to know that ittl be put to good use on track. I hope to see some videos of your runs!
Front bias is preferable on these, the rear tends to be super grippy compared to the front. You don't often see the back coming out on these like on light weight hatches like clios and civics. The weight has something to do with that I imagine.
No wasn't cheap at all but less painful than imagined :grin:
Post by: Shoduchi on June 01, 2022, 03:07:59 pm
The camber setup seems good. With road tyres 34 psi is preferable. I use 32 psi with my AD08R. :smiley:Looking nice and should be good to go for a fair few miles now.
I’m surprised that you’ve got more negative camber at the front than the rear… but they are front wheel drive I suppose…
I can imagine that “cheap” bill still hit the wallet hard! But it’s good to know that ittl be put to good use on track. I hope to see some videos of your runs!
Front bias is preferable on these, the rear tends to be super grippy compared to the front. You don't often see the back coming out on these like on light weight hatches like clios and civics. The weight has something to do with that I imagine.
No wasn't cheap at all but less painful than imagined :grin:
Post by: pudding on June 01, 2022, 05:52:19 pm
I just run the tyre pressure on the petrol flap, which is 36psi I think.
1400kg, blimey, didn't know they were that chubby. Is yours DSG? I'm sure I read in the owners manual that the kerb weight is around 1340kg, but that's for the manual gearbo though. I think DSG adds around 25Kg iirc.
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 01, 2022, 07:55:38 pm
No mine is manual but does have a sunroof which I imagine is about 20kg, heated seats could be extra weight as well I'm not sure, but with lighter suspension bits, no radio, no fog lights, no spare wheel or tool kit. Yeah I hope that was with the ballast included, got a week off soon-ish so will try and venture out and get it on a weigh bridge, as I am curious!
As lots of owners I've got a duct from the fog light/fog light area pointing to the intake filter. Had this in for a while now just because I had the ducting lying around doing nothing so thought may as well but I've always thought surely it does sweet naff all.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1XC38YWH/20220601-191543.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/m19sqVWz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vmtM1NTV/20220601-191612.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJvN6M9D)
But today I decided to stick a hair dryer towards the duct at various angles and distances and fairplay the airflow does get up to the filter quite efficiently! Surprised the duct I've had installed for months actually works :grin:
Also mounted a fire safety stick and radio blank, yes before you ask it is 100% not straight, that's what happens when you just drill holes without marking up prior :grin:
(https://i.postimg.cc/VsGtr70p/20220525-212642.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QV7CvJbJ)
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 12, 2022, 09:31:27 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/fbx3VRPk/20220603-121950.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zLGDM881)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2y539FSB/20220603-132748.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8Jq1jvW1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MT5vYrqS/20220603-132754.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zbLzz7yt)
Finally had its first track session in over a year at Llandow
(https://i.postimg.cc/QCT9wZYD/20220611-075409.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZvJ5v2hs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rs8b91vt/20220611-113223.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ygbv1Z6V)
Car performed flawlessly, I was 2nd to arrive and last on track and last to leave so gave it really good abuse. The balance of the car is sooo much better than before, just coming off throttle mid corner slightly provokes the rear to rotate nicely. What I did not expect was how much more fuel efficient the car was compared to last time, the number of consumables and work I've done on the engine I guess has probably fixed some old car fuel inefficiencies which was nice!
Map 4 (260bhp) was just so much wheel spin it wasn't that enjoyable to drive, Map 2 (~220bhp) was on the limit of wheel spin without issues and Map 3 (~240bhp) was a good compromise between the two which I stuck with. I think a quaiffe is needed now!
-
- Brakes performed great, my temp stickers indicated they got to between 188 and 210 degrees Celsius. Only noticed after leaving for the day that the pedal felt quite long, it is running motul rbf 660 so was surprised by that but maybe we are on the limit of the stock brakes, I could still trigger abs but only on the slow chicanes with these tyres. Being as Combe is next and a heavy braking circuit I may put some ducting in that will point to the caliper, not a great solution but the discs are cheap, I have spare race pads already waiting and if it stops brake fade going into quarry then I'm all for it. I will say though the rp-1 pads felt really awesome when they were warmed up, the pedal feel was really great, will have to check how they've worn soon but impressed so far.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0QJ2ssQC/20220612-073817.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qh4dsW2t)
The stock brakes get a terrible bashing sometimes, but I've found they're not great but you won't fly off the circuit like some will have you believe if you're running a good race pad and fluid, especially so if you're just running normal daily driver road tyres.
Pressures wise I aimed for 34 but ended up on about 33 on front and 32 on rear just because conditions changed and hot pressures dropped later on and couldn't be bothered adding more air in and bringing back down. Think this was a little low as I've got a decent amount of pick-up in the centre of the tyre left on rears which could indicate it was bulging inwards from too low a pressure. Man maths is telling me 35-33 psi is the target for these tyres on current weight.
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4Q6m9qp/20220612-083212.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/svm1MdGN)
The fronts could also be a little low on 33 as we still rolled over onto the sidewall
(https://i.postimg.cc/WzZGhzNY/20220612-162540.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5QxYrxF8)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HsG0Fwzq/20220612-162549.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/K4NgMgdf)
Overall though awesome result, it was quick and a couple people mentioned they were surprised at the pace this was lapping all day. Combe next on 8th July :smiley:
Post by: pudding on June 13, 2022, 01:13:32 pm
Post by: RBS on June 14, 2022, 01:58:27 pm
Post by: Shoduchi on June 14, 2022, 04:33:55 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 26, 2022, 08:02:47 pm
The whiteline drop links nuts seemingly keep undoing themselves.. stuck some washers on them and some blue loctite and hope that's the end of it now frankly!
Also it's been cutting out which is very annoying, seemingly a bad throttle body, I've stuck a newer revision and younger one from a BWA TT and hope that's sorted now, seems to be so far anyway. Gave it a good clean while I had it off anyway so not sure if that smoothens anything out or not on these. Lots of people mention this is a bugger of a job, if you have small hands like me it's actually quite simple to be fair with a flexible quarter inch ratchet.
(https://i.postimg.cc/h41X15Zm/20220622-164823.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fkkWwBNW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/WbphWwxH/20220622-164905.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4nMfnVf6)
Brakes have been Buggers too. Bled the brake as the pedal was super long after Llandow and the temps we got up to are a lot to take for the caliper seals and fluid which has concerned me. Still felt spongy after bleeding so bled again, still spongy. Ive seemingly got some minor brake pad glazing which I was surprised at for these pads, I assumed they could take far more abuse than I could possibly give them
(https://i.postimg.cc/xCHtZ2Nn/20220615-125350.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yg1mJ2Tb)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8cmw1mbY/20220615-125400.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xNqL5HhG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/WpG56sP7/20220615-125402.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXvKnSqZ)
So currently de-glazing them with some 80 grit paper and also the discs while I'm there just in case. Will go and bed them in again at a stupid time of the morning soon and hopefully that's them sorted then!
Decided I need to install some ducting, it's not a great solution as we are pointed to the caliper rather than through the disc veins but it needs to be done I think to get this current brake setup to work semi efficiently for the rest of the year until I can upgrade. Thinking of the megane caliper setup... cheaper than db9/ttrs ones but with all the same advantages it seems and also while being brand new Calipers which works out at around 300 quid more than the golf r setup but would be using 2nd hand Calipers so seems very good value.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FF6HpXg7/IMG-20220621-213209-558.webp) (https://postimg.cc/Thrx2Ss6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fRnT47Ps/IMG-20220621-213209-710.webp) (https://postimg.cc/jLcrPfK3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/hP7P3ZpM/IMG-20220621-213209-764.webp) (https://postimg.cc/GHdC4K0s)
What I have noticed though is looking at the caliper bracket from behind and also looking at other aftermarket caliper brackets is I think there may be room to install a proper race worthy brake ducting setup with some welding skills.
Here is the room I mention between the bracket and the hub
(https://i.postimg.cc/SsNc6bLg/Screenshot-20220626-194530-Gallery.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NySytVzX)
And here is roughly what I would think is possibly, and extra piece or metal over that gap that could have a semi circle shaped duct inlet of around a 1.5 inch ducting diameter that would go straight to the centre of the discs and into the veins .
(https://i.postimg.cc/15944rHK/20220621-190603.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t7M9MP81)
Something to think about and ponder in the future anyway.
Post by: pudding on July 02, 2022, 10:46:07 am
You're lucky you managed to swap it out in situ. I had to remove the fan pack in order to get at it!
What pads are they? They've taken a bit of a beating!
Post by: Clarkj93 on July 02, 2022, 11:43:55 am
Did you put the red paint blobs on the throttle screws? :grin: Hope that fixes your issue :happy2: I looked up the part number and it's still relevant. I guess VW changed it yet again in 2019 at some point.
You're lucky you managed to swap it out in situ. I had to remove the fan pack in order to get at it!
What pads are they? They've taken a bit of a beating!
Haha no I have no idea what it's there for either! Wasn't sure if it was red loctite or something!
Oh nice thanks for checking that.
Ebc rp-1, so a race pad and would have thought they'd cope really... the other side was even worse as well. I've sanded them down and re Bedded them now but still not 100%, think I'm just going to take the risk at Combe next week and if they're junk then it's a lesson learnt for next time. They're not dangerous in anyway just missing that initial sharp bite and possibly less grabby at full braking force than I remember... maybe a heat cycle on track is what they need though who knows!
Post by: pudding on July 02, 2022, 12:29:44 pm
Yeah just wear them out and choose something else next time if they don't work out for you. Race pads are expensive though, so you might end up going through a few sets to find one you like.....although sounds like you'll be going with those Megane was it? calipers possibly :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on July 03, 2022, 05:35:36 pm
I reckon the ebay seller did that in case you returned it as faulty :grin: I guess he's had people in the past taking the cover off and tinkering with it!
Yeah just wear them out and choose something else next time if they don't work out for you. Race pads are expensive though, so you might end up going through a few sets to find one you like.....although sounds like you'll be going with those Megane was it? calipers possibly :happy2:
Ah that makes perfect sense now actually...
I just sanded down the discs this afternoon (again!) And stuck the spare race pads on as after checking them they were possibly even more glazed than before. I think il sand the living s*** out of these until there is no chance the glazed material is still there and keep them as a spare set just incase but not overly impressed with the unreliability of a pad that is meant to take way hotter temps!
Yeah megane calipers look like a good option to me, saying that if a set of good condition golf r calipers come out for a very good price I may save the £. We will see!
Post by: pudding on July 04, 2022, 03:45:24 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on July 09, 2022, 05:19:13 am
They MK7 setup is pretty good actually. I need to get off my arse and do an ebay/classifieds session as I've got a set sat in a cupboard :grin:
That's interesting! I'd possibly be a buyer... If I don't end up with a kit I've been spying on over the last few days that is!
How come you took them off by the way? Went back to std gti setup didn't you?
Post by: Clarkj93 on July 09, 2022, 05:37:34 am
(https://i.postimg.cc/MTRtdWtx/20220708-082038.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0MkpN1LH)
Pembrey is next month, hoping for a more enjoyable day, nothing broke though and it was 26 degrees so a hot one to cope with so can't whinge too much :grin:
Slight curve ball though is a pretty cool BBK may be landing into my lap fairly soon so watch out :happy2:
Post by: rich83 on July 09, 2022, 12:27:18 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on July 09, 2022, 03:23:37 pm
Just make sure it's a bbk that is proven to work as you intend. If it's got the name "ap" or "Alcon" on it will be fine... if not then you might be back o square one
Going by the name of this build thread you know it isn't going to be one of them :grin: but it is a porsche caliper with a large disc, hopefully it's all it's cracked up to be.
Post by: rich83 on July 09, 2022, 04:08:28 pm
Solid discs and you still might hit problems.
Post by: Clarkj93 on July 09, 2022, 05:07:58 pm
Well... we need more info than that :signLOL:
Solid discs and you still might hit problems.
Haha I was hoping for a big reveal :grin: well if it's good nick as I been told and I do get it it's a 996 turbo 4 pot caliper running a 350mm ml merc disc. Seems to be a rated setup my only concern thus far is the seals from the heat but I imagine it would either be fine or someone surely makes titanium shims to protect them for what is a well known caliper on circuits.
Post by: Clarkj93 on July 13, 2022, 11:15:54 pm
Instead I spontaneously got this instead
(https://i.postimg.cc/L6DGpN1w/IMG-20220713-223847-804.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zVLxwwpF)
Golf R calipers. Pbs pads. Vbt j hooked discs.
Went for this setup as it was reasonably priced, lighter than the r32 caliper and if I want to upgrade to a 4 pot caliper of some variation in the future then the discs can be reused for the db9 and I think the megane calipers.
Only just got them on and bled after putting a shift on so not had a chance to use them yet.
Post by: Clarkj93 on July 31, 2022, 05:39:39 pm
The pad size difference is quite subsantial
(https://i.postimg.cc/4x9Zt9Wb/20220712-172344.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFhRZHGH)
Ebc bluestuff on the rears have worn very fast, 2 track day and maybe 500 road miles and they've got about a 1 track day left in them, I'm swapping them to use as spares now and going to install mintex m155 in the hope they're more durable as I've heard.
Just done an oil change and checked the cam follower, wasn't sure what to expect as it's only done 2k since last checked and maybe 3k max on this follower but a lot of the miles have been hard miles but it's still like new
(https://i.postimg.cc/bNFkrK5S/20220725-194207.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4mVmFFsX)
Got bored and decided to paint the wheels, not meant to be perfect as I cba sanding down tiny imperfections as long as its looks half decent I'm happy. Meant to be satin black but it's come out as Matte instead, still looks decent anyway I think
(https://i.postimg.cc/0jSjNBKD/20220727-194528.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kRnq1wcg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HW8V3Vvn/20220731-161944.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SjqSxNhb)
Post by: pudding on August 01, 2022, 09:48:46 am
J hooks are noisy are they? See, other folk who've used them have never mentioned that :grin: I did suspect as much as grooved discs I've used in the past made horrible grumbling noises, and the drilled Clubsport S discs make a ticking noise as you pull up....kind of like a cricket chirping away. Anyway, old man gripes aside, I'm glad the mods are working out :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on August 14, 2022, 11:28:10 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/nc4F91RC/IMG-20220814-WA0003.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BXv9d2G0)
New brake setup took some getting used to, trail braking requires a heavier foot for these calipers on the mk5 master cylinder which feels a little wrong at first but with this setup with pbs pro race on the front and mintex m155 on the back it really shocked me how much quicker it stops when the pads and tyres are warm, felt wicked out braking a lot of light weight and better prepared track cars in a 1.4 tonne fat boy golf with heated seats and air con :grin: temp stickers show 140-160 on the calipers which is much lower than before but with it getting hotter and hotter and then getting carried away and staying out far too long on the last session they got seriously hot, didn't help that it was so hot they didn't cool down that much between sessions either.
(https://i.postimg.cc/NF0hz18k/20220814-165251.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/62F174m8)
Will check how the pads have coped and maybe bleed the brakes just in case but it all feels fine still on the drive home tbh.
Weirdly bumped into the guy who did the geo for the golf there while he was supporting a customers race car for the day. Embarrassingly he pointed out that I had my directional tyres facing the wrong way :doh: for some reason I never clocked that if you swap sides they they face the wrong way :grin: they've been like that for ages as well, I've been wondering why it's felt so twitchy on brakes and turn in lately :grin: As you can imagine turning them the correct way meant the car felt a solid 2 or so seconds a lap faster, just way more grip everywhere and much more stable in every respect.
Did feel a little softly sprung in places, not sure if I can get some stiffer springs to fit the top mounts as it takes something like a 4 inch diameter spring on the mount and the shock body takes something like a 2 inch diameter. I've not seen anyone sell custom rated springs that vary in size top to bottom. Adapater needed? Or suitable top mount needed instead?
(https://i.postimg.cc/MGTq4JWQ/20220813-151044.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FY2Mdqkr)
On way back though its misfiring very badly, cylinder 1. Smell of fuel outside the car and and not plugs or coils so I'm going to assume the fuel injector is dead. Not done the inlet manifold before, it looks a not so fun job.
My winter mod list keeps changing as expensive life events are taking over but thinking the aim is to get about 100kg of weight out of the car without losing air con or carpets yet to stop the cabin getting too hot and Poly bush everything with super pro. No way I'm paying for spherical (...yet?) And the rubber ones are old as he'll and a bit like marshmallows I think as it does feelt a little soft.
Post by: pudding on August 16, 2022, 11:30:03 am
Post by: Clarkj93 on August 16, 2022, 06:33:49 pm
What's on the car at the moment? PSS9? Sounds like you need more damping than spring rate. If you add more spring to the same dampers, it will just get bouncy and feel worse.
Yeah, rebound on them is stiff but compression is soft, that's why I opted to keep the rear bump stops full length rather than trimming as most do in the hope this may have the effect of stiffening rear bump up to keep weight over the front when on the power. What you're saying would make more sense with my previous findings, I was hoping going just a smidge or 2 on spring rate would help but yeah maybe you're right there..
I do actually really like the default settings for these dampers and got one hell of a deal on them at the time but starting to wonder if they were a mistake not having adjustment. Maybe just some ARB tuning would sort. currently on mid on the front 24mm whiteline and full hard on the rear 24mm whiteline. I'll try the front full stiff next time, maybe a stiffer front bar and even rear is needed in future.
Post by: pudding on August 17, 2022, 09:27:20 am
Sounds like the PSS10s are more suitable for your needs. Maybe sell the PSS9s to help fund them?
ARBs can help but they add to the spring rate also in the corners, which isn't pleasant if they are at max stiffness and one wheel hits a bump!
Post by: Clarkj93 on August 18, 2022, 11:20:58 pm
Bc racing br is uber popular but frankly it bugged me that everyone had it and wanted to try something different and also too much for your money - was not convinced it would be great quality of damping or the valving was actually suitable for the application, I've heard it's a generic formula for them, the adjustable top mounts would have been nice though.
I want to learn more about dampers and the valving and spring rates before scouring a new set I think anyway but won't be getting a new set any time soon, more important things needed first. I like how Gaz actually tailor to what you want when ordering the golds, I know they don't last forever but can be rebuilt and some successful race cars run them. Ast's are raved about but expensive like KW's and Ohlins etc.
Post by: pudding on August 19, 2022, 11:02:59 am
I did that years ago with my Corrado and Julian at BalanceMotorsport did all the calculations for me (roll centres, weights, motion ratios etc etc...it gets complicated) which led me to Gaz's door, and a set of Gold coilovers. The ride and body control were epic, but the quality was abysmal.
Anyway, long story short...... Gaz Gold and Ohlins DFV are the only two stand out coilovers I've tried over the years, and I've tried a lot!
I don't like Bilstein stuff, never have. It's totally not suited to UK roads. Either too stiff or too soft. Even their OE spec B4s (which I'm currently using) are complete garbage.
KWs I found were over rated, pretty middling really.....but the Inox ones last forever.
Never tried AST but hear they are tops :happy2:
If you want top mounts, nothing comes close to Ground Control. Unfortunately those and AST 3 ways are almost worth more than the car :grin:
Post by: Clarkj93 on August 19, 2022, 11:18:39 am
Suspension can be a nightmare to figure out, not to mention expensive. Sometimes it pays to consult an expert to get precisely the right spring and damper rates for your car.
I did that years ago with my Corrado and Julian at BalanceMotorsport did all the calculations for me (roll centres, weights, motion ratios etc etc...it gets complicated) which led me to Gaz's door, and a set of Gold coilovers. The ride and body control were epic, but the quality was abysmal.
Anyway, long story short...... Gaz Gold and Ohlins DFV are the only two stand out coilovers I've tried over the years, and I've tried a lot!
I don't like Bilstein stuff, never have. It's totally not suited to UK roads. Either too stiff or too soft. Even their OE spec B4s (which I'm currently using) are complete garbage.
KWs I found were over rated, pretty middling really.....but the Inox ones last forever.
Never tried AST but hear they are tops :happy2:
If you want top mounts, nothing comes close to Ground Control. Unfortunately those and AST 3 ways are almost worth more than the car :grin:
Yeah I was thinking of doing the same next time!
Yeah I got to say the B14 is a weird one as on a narrower circuit or low grip circuit the feel good but on hard long bends on a high grip surface they do feel too soft. But considering they're more marketed for road and some track I got to say I'd be pissed off if I bought them just for the road, sh*t road manners even when I had no arb's on, the rebound is just stiff enough that it destroys the comfort. Feels good though on a bumpy circuit but terrible on the road.
Yeah I think I will end up with ground control mounts at some point as I do want more camber, just nothing else comes close. Silver projects do dead cheap mounts but unsure as I've heard some dodgy things about their top mounts in the past... like more on the lines of dangerous rather than just a bit iffy.
Post by: pudding on August 19, 2022, 12:22:34 pm
Suspension can be a nightmare to figure out, not to mention expensive. Sometimes it pays to consult an expert to get precisely the right spring and damper rates for your car.
I did that years ago with my Corrado and Julian at BalanceMotorsport did all the calculations for me (roll centres, weights, motion ratios etc etc...it gets complicated) which led me to Gaz's door, and a set of Gold coilovers. The ride and body control were epic, but the quality was abysmal.
Anyway, long story short...... Gaz Gold and Ohlins DFV are the only two stand out coilovers I've tried over the years, and I've tried a lot!
I don't like Bilstein stuff, never have. It's totally not suited to UK roads. Either too stiff or too soft. Even their OE spec B4s (which I'm currently using) are complete garbage.
KWs I found were over rated, pretty middling really.....but the Inox ones last forever.
Never tried AST but hear they are tops :happy2:
If you want top mounts, nothing comes close to Ground Control. Unfortunately those and AST 3 ways are almost worth more than the car :grin:
Yeah I was thinking of doing the same next time!
Yeah I got to say the B14 is a weird one as on a narrower circuit or low grip circuit the feel good but on hard long bends on a high grip surface they do feel too soft. But considering they're more marketed for road and some track I got to say I'd be pissed off if I bought them just for the road, sh*t road manners even when I had no arb's on, the rebound is just stiff enough that it destroys the comfort. Feels good though on a bumpy circuit but terrible on the road.
Yeah I think I will end up with ground control mounts at some point as I do want more camber, just nothing else comes close. Silver projects do dead cheap mounts but unsure as I've heard some dodgy things about their top mounts in the past... like more on the lines of dangerous rather than just a bit iffy.
On the Corrado, I switched from H&R Comfort coilovers (PSS9 with H&Rs own springs) to the Gaz Gold, and it was a revelation! But because the Golds only lasted approx. 9 months, I then went to KW V3.....and they were crap if I'm honest. Way under damped, even on the stiffest settings. Gaz were great about the failure though, but I just didn't trust them again after that experience.
See, that's exactly what I mean about Bilstein coilovers. Their high speed compression valving is just ridiculously over the top and unnecessary. People that get on with them must have smooth roads is all I can say!
The Ohlins are like the Bilsteins but without the harshness over bumps, and come with sensible spring rates. 70n/mm front and 60n/mm rear. That's approx twice factory spring rate, but works well because of the damping quality and factory arbs. Still works great with Eibach arbs but ride does suffer a little, but not as much as other coilovers.
Yeah the cheap stuff makes me wonder in terms of structural integrity! The GCs are just so frickin expensive. When you hold a set in your hands, you see why though!
BC Racing are OKish....but generic damping as you say. You're in the same place I was 4 or 5 years ago! Not happy with the usual offerings but the good stuff is too expensive :grin:
Post by: Clarkj93 on August 19, 2022, 04:26:02 pm
Part of me was wondering the other week if you could get It modified by someone in the know, so modify the current b14 dampers valving for a Stiffer compression or just Stiffer in general with the same bump/rebound ratio and get it valved to work with Stiffer and linear springs.
I noticed that 034 motorsport have started doing static top mounts of an additional 1.5 neg camber but at almost the same price of GC without castor settings so sounds like terrible value when compared.
Post by: pudding on August 20, 2022, 06:05:28 pm
The main negatives of monotubes are harsher ride and shorter life span. They tend to feel the same across the brands because of how they work, except where companies like Ohlins use a 'blow off' valve to bleed off some of the high speed compression forces (riding apex kerbs etc) which gives you better wheel control. I think AST do something similar.
Bilstein and KW only get decent with their clubsport range, but you wouldn't like them on the road :grin:
Linear springs all the way :happy2: Progressives are unpredictable and inconsistent.
The GCs are the only mount I would consider. OEM BMW bearings for the springs, which last forever, but are only £25 each when the time comes....and for the damper rods they use fairly decent Aurora spherical bearings, but I upgraded mine to NMB bearings which are heavier duty :happy2:
I think the cost of consultation and revalving your existing dampers might not be good VFM vs upgrading them to adjustables, but have some chats with race experts and see what they say :happy2: It never hurts and they tend to raise things you might not have considered.
My chat with BalanceMotorsport ended up with Gaz Gold coilovers running much softer spring rates than I would have used, but it worked really well. That's why the MK7 Clubsport S broke the ring lap record.....because it used softer suspension :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on August 23, 2022, 11:01:19 pm
Yeah they don't do monotubes. There are pros and cons for both types of damper but Monotubes are better for track days as as they don't bend as much in the corners and also don't suffer from oil cavitation. Road cars don't tend to push dampers very hard, so generally always come with twin tubes as they're also much cheaper to make. KW offer a lifetime warranty on the inox V3s, or they used to at least, and you won't see that kind of warranty with monotubes :grin:Yeah all true!
The main negatives of monotubes are harsher ride and shorter life span. They tend to feel the same across the brands because of how they work, except where companies like Ohlins use a 'blow off' valve to bleed off some of the high speed compression forces (riding apex kerbs etc) which gives you better wheel control. I think AST do something similar.
Bilstein and KW only get decent with their clubsport range, but you wouldn't like them on the road :grin:
Linear springs all the way :happy2: Progressives are unpredictable and inconsistent.
The GCs are the only mount I would consider. OEM BMW bearings for the springs, which last forever, but are only £25 each when the time comes....and for the damper rods they use fairly decent Aurora spherical bearings, but I upgraded mine to NMB bearings which are heavier duty :happy2:
I think the cost of consultation and revalving your existing dampers might not be good VFM vs upgrading them to adjustables, but have some chats with race experts and see what they say :happy2: It never hurts and they tend to raise things you might not have considered.
My chat with BalanceMotorsport ended up with Gaz Gold coilovers running much softer spring rates than I would have used, but it worked really well. That's why the MK7 Clubsport S broke the ring lap record.....because it used softer suspension :happy2:
I imagine il revisit the damping when I plan to install the TT hubs I've had in the shed for over a year now, I imagine I will end up going for either:
- something cheap and generic with adjustable top mounts like yellowspeed/Bc racing
- take a punt on GAZ golds longevity but tailored setup with GC mounts
- don't tell the Mrs or the bank and get Ast's and their top mounts and boast about them to everyone
We will see when the time comes :grin:
Post by: pudding on August 24, 2022, 01:32:54 pm
Gaz's quality issues should be a thing of the past now. My bad experience was in 2006, but everything that could go wrong with a damper, did go wrong :grin: Blown seals, chrome plate flaking off the damper rods, seized spring perches.....and all within 9 months of purchase :grin: Dunno why I'm laughing as that was £1100 down the drain :doh: :grin:
My Mrs always gets told half to a third of the real price when asked :grin:
Post by: Clarkj93 on August 24, 2022, 02:00:27 pm
The TT hubs are a good move as it drops the ball joint pivots down 50mm, which is brilliant for roll centre :happy2:
Gaz's quality issues should be a thing of the past now. My bad experience was in 2006, but everything that could go wrong with a damper, did go wrong :grin: Blown seals, chrome plate flaking off the damper rods, seized spring perches.....and all within 9 months of purchase :grin: Dunno why I'm laughing as that was £1100 down the drain :doh: :grin:
My Mrs always gets told half to a third of the real price when asked :grin:
Yeah I've wanted them on for a while, I'm so close to the arches currently which I've already folded that they'll need chopping up and wider arch extensions put on so left it for now. Bit longer as well, can't remember how much so a bit extra track width, better roll centre and more static camber achievable and less unsprung weight, win win! Ryan from Darkside told me they'll work with just the TT driveshafts and tie rods, he mentioned just bare in mind it's alarming how little thread engagement there is but all the cup cars run like this without issue. Whether that's still suitable for a car that does 2k road miles a year I don't know :grin:
Yeah I'd hope so, the tailored option is very appealing to be honest.
Hahha someone else told me before to describe everything as a safety issue. Only thing she's ever agreed with is getting the bigger golf r setup on as she experienced no brakes from the passenger seat at Combe and was too scared to get back in after that😅
Post by: pudding on August 25, 2022, 02:22:20 pm
The TT hubs are a good move as it drops the ball joint pivots down 50mm, which is brilliant for roll centre :happy2:
Gaz's quality issues should be a thing of the past now. My bad experience was in 2006, but everything that could go wrong with a damper, did go wrong :grin: Blown seals, chrome plate flaking off the damper rods, seized spring perches.....and all within 9 months of purchase :grin: Dunno why I'm laughing as that was £1100 down the drain :doh: :grin:
My Mrs always gets told half to a third of the real price when asked :grin:
Yeah I've wanted them on for a while, I'm so close to the arches currently which I've already folded that they'll need chopping up and wider arch extensions put on so left it for now. Bit longer as well, can't remember how much so a bit extra track width, better roll centre and more static camber achievable and less unsprung weight, win win! Ryan from Darkside told me they'll work with just the TT driveshafts and tie rods, he mentioned just bare in mind it's alarming how little thread engagement there is but all the cup cars run like this without issue. Whether that's still suitable for a car that does 2k road miles a year I don't know :grin:
Yeah I'd hope so, the tailored option is very appealing to be honest.
Hahha someone else told me before to describe everything as a safety issue. Only thing she's ever agreed with is getting the bigger golf r setup on as she experienced no brakes from the passenger seat at Combe and was too scared to get back in after that😅
Yeah it's not something I would do to a road car. Less thread engagement = less grip. I never trust the usual "Mine's been fine mate" endorsements. I only trust vehicle manufacturers, and Audi wouldn't fit inner tie rods to a rack with what is it? 5 or 6 threads? :grin: I can see why people do that though as a TT rack and rods etc is an expensive faff.....and then I can't help but feel simply buying a TT might be a better option, well, that's what Darkside did :grin:
Tailored works really well, but whether custom will work equally well on road and track......hmmmm, not sure.
Saftey issue :grin: That's a good one, I'll remember that in future :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on August 25, 2022, 02:50:11 pm
Post by: pudding on August 25, 2022, 03:58:05 pm
You could go for a Scirocco? That's pretty much the FWD TT you're after. It's already wide track so should just need the TT hubs for the roll centre correction....in theory :grin:
Or get a 4WD TT if it's cheaper and just bin the prop and read diff :grin: Completely agree about Haldex, it's horrible.
Post by: Clarkj93 on August 30, 2022, 05:10:56 pm
Still need to reinstall the front drop link, bleed the brakes and get the fuel injectors and everything back on before llandow on 24th September. As well as finish painting the wheels, thankless task I wish I never started.
Decided to tidy up the brake ducting in the hope it will also attract a bit more air as I'm not convinced they're doing much at the moment, I thought it would make a small difference and help cool the ball joints/bearings but so far not convinced after seeing how hot everything got at Pembrey. Will likely take another look at making a v2.0 of this ducting in a few months
(https://i.postimg.cc/rsLM4yL2/20220830-135555.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2VBFhsg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FFj94Sjr/20220830-135600.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Jtzw3G6v)
Llandow is probably going to be last one of the year so want to spend it doing some experimenting with different ARB stiffness and tyre pressures as I have a feeling 33-34 hot is actually too low as when using a tyre tread guage I can see the tyres are wearing far more on the inside and outside edges than the centre. Which is why I have bought a cheap skates version of pyrometer to check the tyre temperature is a steady decline from the inside edge outwards and not up and down or major drops of temp between sections of the tyre to ascertain the best tyre pressures.
(https://i.postimg.cc/L8mkTjVn/20220830-143427.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dLSTQkpY)
May experiment with rake settings as well just to play with more rear rotation and see how it responds.
Am very much looking forward to lightening this heffa thing I must say over the winter. Not sure what winter mods will be on the list yet, should only really focus on reliability points and upgrade worn things but tempting to just go faster :confused:!
Post by: pudding on August 31, 2022, 09:35:01 am
I found mine felt better in the corners with the factory rake removed, i.e. lower at the back, and also better under braking. That's road use though, but often what works well on a fast road car usually translates to the track as well :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on August 31, 2022, 12:52:53 pm
I don't blame you as injectors are silly money at the moment!
I found mine felt better in the corners with the factory rake removed, i.e. lower at the back, and also better under braking. That's road use though, but often what works well on a fast road car usually translates to the track as well :happy2:
Yeah not paying nearly 1000 pounds for that sorry! With all 2nd hand injectors out there getting on in age I imagine though it will be a fairly common practice now for many tfsi owners as only a small percentage are going to pay those prices for what is considered now to be a cheap-ish car most of the time.
Lower COG maybe outweighs the extra front grip/loose rear that large rake gives...
Post by: pudding on August 31, 2022, 01:59:52 pm
The rake is mainly there for high speed stability and rear load capacity on FWD cars, neither of which are particularly relevant to a track car :smiley: To me the car feels better balanced with the rake shifted, and indeed all FWD cars I've owned...... in the same way the car feels more planted after filling up the tank. Rake feels like lifting up a corner of a table on turn-in, very tail led, but levelled off, the whole table corners at the same height, it's more front led and the rear just follows faithfully rather than influencing..... really bad analogy but hope it makes sense :grin:
Post by: Clarkj93 on September 04, 2022, 08:41:23 am
Yep it's ridiculous. Injector replacement plus Walnut blast is getting on for a £1500 job now :stupid:
The rake is mainly there for high speed stability and rear load capacity on FWD cars, neither of which are particularly relevant to a track car :smiley: To me the car feels better balanced with the rake shifted, and indeed all FWD cars I've owned...... in the same way the car feels more planted after filling up the tank. Rake feels like lifting up a corner of a table on turn-in, very tail led, but levelled off, the whole table corners at the same height, it's more front led and the rear just follows faithfully rather than influencing..... really bad analogy but hope it makes sense :grin:
Yeah rear load capacity was my thinking. Mine is set on almost the lowest setting on front and not far off that on the rear and there is some natural rake anyway. Was just watching the mini challenge cars last weekend which have crazy amounts of rake and got me to thinking!
Post by: Clarkj93 on September 04, 2022, 06:30:13 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/W1Cbrs6M/20220831-111041.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NK8cvqnM)
The hpfp been driving me crazy lately, just constantly leaking, ended up replacing the rubber hose and bamboo connector which connects the low pressure fuel line to the hpfp, 45 quid for that tiny little brass union :surprised:
(https://i.postimg.cc/W1rxWjcm/20220903-093217.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4Yf8yDdn)
I replaced them as it was leaking quite a lot thinking I'd messed something when removing but the new one still leaked annoyingly! When I took it off originally I could have sworn I saw something fall out of the hpfp, I tried VW and Aks tuning and both were sure there wasn't any kind of washer there and nothing they can see in the diagrams and nothing they stock or sell. I decided to just get some m6 nylon washers from b and q, fitted one and boom no leaks! No idea if it's just mine that needs this for whatever reason or if all hpfp's have this but it's just not listed. Drove me a bit mad anyway taking it on and off god knows how many times.
And now it's actually running it idles so beautifully when the injectors have just been cleaned, never lasts long I've found but is satisfying :grin:
It's going to be fun stripping this thing down after Llandow, if anyone wants interior bits let me know. Not going to be fully stripped to keep it relatively safe still with oem seatbelts and air bags but anything I can remove without impacting safety or air con will likely be removed!=
Post by: pudding on September 05, 2022, 11:34:33 am
Glad it's sorted for now, but you will need to get the proper washers in there at some point :happy2:
I could do with a few interior bits. Let us know when the great strip down commences :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on September 25, 2022, 12:22:14 am
MOT is due very soon..are these going to pass? :scared:
(https://i.postimg.cc/fbnp70tc/20220924-154705.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gxsgmjKj)
After realising how bad the tyres were blistering as seen above I decide ro rotate front to back. Not a great idea as the car then oversteered quite badly and inconsistently due to the dead blistering tyres which led to a small off and some minor off roading
(https://i.postimg.cc/PxBSHgWm/20220924-163521.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gXHVqBBJ)
It was quite a badly organised day I must say. Never known a circuit to take 20 mins to recover a mechanical failure for a stopped vehicle within 100 metres of the pits and the organisers having to ask a random punter to recover the car on their own trailer? This one looked like an expensive shunt though
(https://i.postimg.cc/hP01Zz58/20220924-122108.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8jjvj5Ds)
In 2 minds currently whether to just to get it through its MOT or just take it of the road for a bit while I do my winter upgrades as its won't be going anywhere anyway. I may just borrow rhe Mrs audi a1 wheels to get the MOT done :P
Post by: Clarkj93 on October 02, 2022, 06:35:44 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/65prnnPp/20221002-182852.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gr1LPXdC)
Made some door cards this afternoon also. You can buy nice ones from track car door cards but by the time you spec them they end up being at least 150 quid which seems a bit expensive for just covering some sharp bits with material. Ended up spending about 50 quid in materials and door pulls. Not perfect and a little rough here and there but overall a decent finish.
(https://i.postimg.cc/GtwcrFsJ/20221002-100220.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2bGp7BGV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tTVXLS74/20221002-164851.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7Gw8zNgF)
If anyone was wondering the front door cards weigh around 4.5kg each on a 3 door. I think my material was at most 1kg a side so somewhere between 7kg to 8kg saving. Not going to notice that but not bad considering I genuinely thought it would be no difference at all.
Post by: pudding on October 07, 2022, 06:21:14 pm
4.5Kg, jesus. I thought they felt a bit on the hefty side last time I removed one! All the little weight shavings here and there add up :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on October 07, 2022, 10:03:15 pm
Very motorsport :happy2: Porsche are great at charging people £1000s for removing the door pulls and giving them a piece of string instead, and you've done the same for peanuts :grin:
4.5Kg, jesus. I thought they felt a bit on the hefty side last time I removed one! All the little weight shavings here and there add up :happy2:
Haha yeah I get they do it in a really fancy way but still... that price? :grin:
Bmw's are the worst at least the old ones I've been in, the doors weigh a tonne I've always wondered what is actually in them to weigh that much :grin:
Post by: Clarkj93 on October 16, 2022, 05:36:19 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/Gt2djtRy/20221016-171424.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Q9R28XH8)
What I thought was odd is that the front tyres are seemingly fine they just noted wear, there's chunks of rubber missing from them blistering on circuit but thats fine it seems :grin: sounds good to me! :happy2:
Bought a new battery impact wrench so just decided to put it to the test and take the passenger seat and weigh it our of curiosity. For anyone that's interested a leather mk5 gti heated seat with electric lumbar support weighs 20kg. Less than I expected actually I thought that was quite light considering the air bag, heated seat function and some kind of motor for the lumbar support
(https://i.postimg.cc/CxZp19Mw/20221016-141923.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w1dG4fsr)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mg0fFVhC/20221016-160508.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PCzFgWW5)
If anyone is interested in a 3 door leather seat set including door cards and arm rear then it's available for sale from next weekend. All in excellent condition (if I'm being really fussy the drivers seat could do with a deep clean just to get it to a factory fresh matt leather look like the other seats), only point is a tiny rip in the rear right door card that's always been there
(https://i.postimg.cc/C5K62fzw/20221016-134611.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BLdgLbTz)
Also the buttons from the drivers door card are missing as I have retained these on my car so you would just need to fit your existing ones in - easy peasy. It will be up on ebay in a few days / next week when I get round to it.
Post by: RBS on October 26, 2022, 05:50:59 pm
Can be fun always on the limit…😇
Btw nice doorcards :happy2:
Post by: bobby_fodge on November 03, 2022, 07:21:45 pm
So I can pinch your budgeteer idea, where did you get the material from?
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 03, 2022, 07:32:19 pm
Loving the doorcards. I've seen some fancy ones on ebay but like you don't want to pay loads for what really is just a sheet of material.
So I can pinch your budgeteer idea, where did you get the material from?
https://www.cutplasticsheeting.co.uk/product/black-pvc-foamex-board/
One of the images on there is a door card from a mk5 which is why I went for it. Its a chap in the production gti series so just copied his idea essentially.
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 19, 2022, 03:43:27 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/Kv0zWFD4/20221119-135219.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gn6mwC5P)
Got around to mounting the ESP button and the fuel pump cut off. Not wired up the fuel pump yet... not really looked into how I'm going to do it yet, I imagine if possible may be best to wire up to the hpfp rather then the low pressure fuel pump so the engine cuts out immediately rather than at low pressure pump where I imagine it will work like when you pull the fuse and takes a 20 or something seconds for the engine to eventually cut out.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BngnF3XJ/20221105-180201.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cvvWqVRz)
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 28, 2022, 01:54:05 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/Jzz8Xwy6/20221128-130428.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0bFhgB0D)
Still got the arm rest and door cards which I imagine will sell very very slowly as well as random bits of plastic trim... not really anywhere to store them so if anyone here wants stuff let me know and il probably give it away free or for some beer money. Rather not post though - sorry I'm just lazy :grin:
Super pro rear bushes arrived from black Friday sale. Looking forward to driving it with a bucket seat, stripped inside and some replacement bushings, I imagine it will feel totally different.
(https://i.postimg.cc/j2wSVpTd/20221128-133743.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gLpW8Brf)
Post by: Clarkj93 on December 10, 2022, 10:50:23 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/d0djtmQ5/20221210-152213.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJ1ZLRZR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MTm016QR/20221210-152216.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WFtJvPSb)
Stripped another 30kg out of it. Some weight facts for anyone of interest:
Rear door cards - 5.8kg
Rear speakers with sound proofing - 2kg
Rear seat belts - 2.3kg
Headlining with controls, Visors and Jesus handles - 5kg
Parcel shelf - roughly 1/1.5kg
Front door cards - 9.2kg
Roof air bags and brackets - 4kg
All oem seats - 76.2kg
Not mentioned all the boring bits but that's the main stuff at least. In total currently around 145kg weight less than full oem wet weight. Also when it was corner balanced it was " a touch over 1400kg" and since then we are over 110kg lighter so should be around 1280-1290kg currently with a quarter tank of fuel, at least 45kg more weight to come out via sound deadening and sunroof and random brackets and bits. No drivers seat in yet though so that will be an extra 15 or so kg on top worst case I think but aiming for around 1250kg-ish for now, lots of room to get creative in the future though.
Remember that rust I sorted last year? Well after stripping bits looks like it goes all the way through! Seems sturdy still but it's a little flakey so not sure if it just needs sanding and painting or if it's dead and just needs cutting out and welding in.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Qdtqv447/20221210-105117.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6ykRv0N6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rFgJnXJc/20221210-105121.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dLkr3fpS)
Post by: Clarkj93 on December 23, 2022, 03:29:27 pm
Almost got all the sound proofing off. You hear rumours that the tar sound deadening is like 15 or so kg but I've got 80% of it off now and I've Weighed it at 2kg... really not much in it. There are tons of like little flimsy metal brackets on the chassis that are there for seat belts, light fittings, interior door cards etc. That surely do not contribute to stiffness so I may just cut them off, think it could equal quite a bit of weight.
(https://i.postimg.cc/dQhgYfc4/20221212-105553.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Z0hwPVRd)
Sunroof is high up on my list of jobs to do also, going to remove and replace it with a 2mm aluminium sheet.
Post by: Clarkj93 on January 04, 2023, 04:38:01 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/c49pkyGv/IMG-20230102-170743-114.webp) (https://postimg.cc/bsnVd5JP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Wb1R7pCR/IMG-20230102-170743-158.webp) (https://postimg.cc/5jTk4Jfp)
There is definitely some weight in excess brackets/metal, Wiring and crap behind the dash but il save all that for another time or for someone else to do!
Got a nice foot plate from SW, it's for a mk6 but took a plunge and yeah fits a mk5 floor plan perfectly.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mkQQzG38/20230104-154734.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ctLK22bn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/tCN39p4g/20230104-154739.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SJj2r080)
(https://i.postimg.cc/T32rwFKJ/20230104-154748.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pp79c0Ym)
I am really dreading it but the sunroof delete is next! I bought aluminium to cut initially but realised it was always going to come out best by just getting an exact shape and size cut so I ordered the replacement and just need to do some double checking and drill the holes, paint and then look to attach :confused:
Post by: Clarkj93 on January 15, 2023, 08:15:42 am
(https://i.postimg.cc/yx79sP9w/20230107-112902.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ph1yBKsZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/L66fWxmP/20230107-112912.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BtkXLcLZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wBsDV3gb/20230107-114455.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZSZMhZj)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ydm9M5Jm/20230115-080959.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYsnfx35)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gcK84Cbd/20230115-081014.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Dm8SwYzY)
Post by: Clarkj93 on January 29, 2023, 05:07:01 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/g0tFH9cj/20230129-123521.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Y4FstsWB)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FHhMtF71/20230129-152414.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cr59wS7N)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FsXtZVvy/20230129-152427.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G9KS3YHt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/59CdLkh9/20230129-152438.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6TtmNz6F)
(https://i.postimg.cc/J4NfdH79/20230129-152459.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PPqVCxw4)
Post by: Clarkj93 on February 26, 2023, 02:12:00 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/j5fBNKxv/20230205-104434.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Q9X6G2WW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HkZG1Bv0/20230205-104450.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pmFcDYHy)
Interior has all been cleaned up
(https://i.postimg.cc/wTw4135g/20230205-103302.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tYVNfqmM)
Been trying to wire a cut off switch in the fuel pump, but this mysterious relay cannot be found ended up wiring in the starter relay instead via some poor technical documentation I followed online. I've just left the cut off switch in place, see no reason to cut off the starter relay but it's more effort to undo then leave so oh well :grin:
(https://i.postimg.cc/76Tb2CJc/20230215-193953.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XG4VMY8c)
4 week wait but bucket seat turned up! Great service from GSM, highly recommend.
(https://i.postimg.cc/bN54DvkX/20230221-201709.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/KRn0Cx0Q)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qqMWnh1r/20230221-201717.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JDvTCnwY)
(https://i.postimg.cc/J7Pf8xhz/20230221-201724.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Th57qrmz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vTqkvYKV/20230221-201801.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/q6K1JT4J)
Actually drove the car this week for the first time in almost 4 months. Feels like it's gone to stage 2 due to how much louder it is in the cabin and how noticeably faster it is. The non res miltek cat back still doesn't drone even when the interiors stripped mind so shows how good of an oem + exhaust that is. It does feel a little stiffer also, centre of gravity will now be lower and with the car being lighter now the spring rate will feel a little stiffer too.
Next job is RUST! The jacking points and the interior side of the sills need doing. Idea is to use brushes and wire wheels, then a rust converter and then some simple black hammerstein stuff. Por-15 is good but it doesn't work well on an area that gets hammered by debris and Jack's coming into contact with it.
Il be doing the Super pro bushes on the rear too, not sure what I'm going to do with the subframe yet... don't really want to leave the car on axle stands for a week or so while I refurb the subframe on a wonky drive way. Its alright for a day as the Jack's in place just in case but overnight I get a little concerned...
I have an idea too for suspension.... the b14 coiliver set uses progressive springs and fits oem front top mounts. My idea is currently to use a Compbrake adjustable top mount that's meant for non oem fitment as this will allow me to use a linear spring on the front, and the rear should be a straight swap easily enough. So not only a linear spring but a stiffer one. My research tells me the springs should be 250 front/285 rear, my research also tells me that going up 2kg/mm of spring rate should not be an issue for the valving of the damper, beyond 2kg supposedly is quite safe up until 4kg when things become unpredictable. So I'm thinking of going 375 front/400 rear. It kinda sounds like I should just upgrade the coilovers but think personally I'd rather leave it until I can justify getting something really quality and custom to my application and not just off the shelf with predicted spring rates and valving, plus I can use these top mounts for other coilivers.
I may even get around to finally fitting the TT hubs! Maybe anyway!
Post by: pudding on February 27, 2023, 12:39:36 pm
Yeah you'll need different spring rates now you've stripped it out. You usually you go softer as there's less sprung mass to hold up. 70/60n/mm is fairly typical for a hot hatch in the coilover market (dunno what that is in lbs/in) so maybe try 50/50? Nicely balanced out there :grin:
Post by: Clarkj93 on February 27, 2023, 04:36:31 pm
So currently ( I will have to check the spring rate myself when they're off the car) the spring rates are apparantally on the b14:
Front = 250lb/in - 4.5kg/mm - 43.8N/mm
Rear = 285 lb/in - 5.1kg/mm - 49.9N/mm
I'm proposing:
Front = 375lb/in - 6.7kg/mm - 65.7N/mm
Rear = 400lb/in - 7.1kg/mm - 70.1N/mm
So the spring rates will be far closer to what I see the full on expensive race coilovers using (around 80N/mm-120N/mm typically from info I've seen). Yellowspeed race coilovers use around 160N/mm springs on the front though.... which is not far off the stiffest spring rate most manufacturers of race springs even make!
Most setups I see are stiffer up front as the front is quite chunky compared to the rear where as this setup is and will be the other way around but having front and rear adjustable 24mm Arb's I can always get closer to that setup by going full stiff up front and full soft on rear if that is what works best after some trial and error.
Post by: bobby_fodge on February 27, 2023, 05:57:24 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on February 27, 2023, 06:01:15 pm
Can you slide the seat backwards and forwards with those side mounts?
Mine are solid mounted but sparco make a cheap set of runners that can go in between, it will just mean the seat is ever so slightly higher.
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 10, 2023, 07:02:07 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/xdw4wX9y/20230308-084916.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Tyc0mYLp)
Got the new adjustable Combrake top mounts ready to fit with linear springs I need to order. Compbrake get a mix of reviews on quality but these top mounts do look and feel very nice, time will tell how robust they are.
(https://i.postimg.cc/c1mFm9tc/20230310-140440.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RqW1CTR3)
So next step is to attach a linear spring, the Compbrake top mount will accept a 2 to 2.5 inch ID spring and the Bilstein spring perch is for 2.5 inch ID springs so it is simple enough to just stick a 2.5 inch ID spring in there, the springs are also just over 8 inches long. I tried calculating the spring rate of the progressive spring, its quite tricky to be 100% confident like you could be with a linear spring. Here is the method I used to figure it out:
(https://i.postimg.cc/yx1zkLk8/20230310-174320.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Q9yzzkQ2)
This article was useful https://shocktherapyst.com/the-truth-about-dual-rate-springs/#:~:text=The%20formula%20for%20a%20dual,125%20lb%20combined%20spring%20rate. it made me realise that these "progressive" springs on the market and really just cheap to produce dual rate springs.
So after realising this I calculated the spring rates as Rate 1 and Rate 2. Rate 1 being the initial softer rate and Rate 2 being the stiffer remaining rate. I split them by the coils that had protective tubing on and the ones that did not, the reason for this is as the article explains that a dual rate spring like this will result in Rate 1 fully binding together and taken out of the equation ad then Rate 2 taking over so I thought it was semi-safe to assume that coils with the tubing are the ones that bind and therefor are part of Rate 1.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Yq7xLJr3/20230310-152925.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Wt9ZQYJF)
So this gave me the results for the front spring:
Rate 1 = 225 lb/inch - 4 kg/mm - 39 N/mm
Rate 2 = 343 lb/inch - 6 kg/mm - 60 N/mm
slightly different to the results I found on this thread a while back https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=31277.0
I'll paste it here:
B16 PSS 10 Golf 5:
215 f, 285 r (both progressive)
Front: E4-FD1-Y704A00 = progressive; initial rate 32.8N/mm (approx 190lbs/in), secondary rate 43.4N/mm (approx 250lbs/in)
Rear: E4-FD1-Y754A00 = progressive; initial rate 33.0N/mm (approx 190lbs/in), secondary rate 50.1N/mm (approx 285lbs/in)
At static height:
>> 39 and 51 N/mm (R32 B16: 250F and 285R lbs/inch)
So on that basis and my previous understanding that an additional spring rate of 2kg/mm OR 112 lb/inch OR 20 N/mm should be well within the ideal tolerances of the valving.
So I will most likely opt for Faulkner race spring of the following rate:
450 pounds/inch - 8 kg/mm - 79 N/mm
A little stiffer than my calculations OR a lot stiffer if I have ballsed the calculations up and the previous thread got it right :grin: but just going to linear I imagine will have the effect of feeling like a stiffer spring rate anyway as there is not any initial "give" like the dual rate stuff.
Post by: Scheero1312 on March 13, 2023, 11:23:28 am
Take out the bottom fog light have a tube or pipe running from where the fog light used to be and to a cold air intake.
Let me know if you try this and how it goes.
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 24, 2023, 08:36:54 pm
I though of a good idea for the intake on your track build.
Take out the bottom fog light have a tube or pipe running from where the fog light used to be and to a cold air intake.
Let me know if you try this and how it goes.
(https://i.postimg.cc/hhWGxV4J/20220621-194541.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/q6w0Hh30)
1 step ahead of you :happy2: not sure how effective it is mind you, would be better if it was directed to a sealed up alloy air box I think
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 24, 2023, 09:17:46 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/8zLZhG4s/20230323-091153.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mP23s00G)
(https://i.postimg.cc/25m2Gt9G/20230323-091121.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PC3WrSjv)
(https://i.postimg.cc/R0RGDTjB/20230323-091505.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBFpBc84)
Also cleaned up the TT arms and fitted with super pro bushes.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vZ65nvQz/20230321-220554.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JsMyVZHD)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZRJN1t67/20230322-101319.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/McrXQLPV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/xdvHxTNN/20230322-105415.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/R30NqmRv)
The mk5 consoles with TT solid bushes are now in a box after being cleaned up if anyone wants them
(https://i.postimg.cc/4yDxRVrf/20230322-101148.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4H1gz7fq)
Love a suspension shot...
(https://i.postimg.cc/8CXFnJP5/20230324-174225.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/d7dth0CP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XJ0MWxvD/20230324-174235.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mcVpNYCQ)
I still need to finish off 1 or 2 little jobs on front end, sort out some more efficient brake ducting and then onto the rear, found a local shop that is happy to sand blast and powder coat the subframe and control arms for 300 quid so may get that done in grey/silver so matches the front control arms and subframe and then fit with SP bushes all around. Will be a little while before I can do a real test drive on the road of how this setup behaves.
Also got my eyes on a Varley red top 25 battery too which is about 10-12kg further weight saving which I think I will mount behind where the passenger seat would be.
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 05, 2023, 09:42:23 pm
Due to the damper design maybe being too long that it gives the following issues:
- a 450 pound 7 inch spring requires a helper spring to get a good ride height, however this the spring perches are obviously not designed for this in mind as the helper perch and spring perch come into contact as you can see
(https://i.postimg.cc/05HpQ3Jg/20230328-224930.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nMBsS3kT)
- Also at the ideal ride height there is only half an inch of bump travel.... which is 1/8th of the dampers travel which is very detrimental and may even be un-driveable. Raising the car to half about 50% of total travel for bump which is the minimum you would want really makes the ride height so high it may as well be an off-roader build instead. You might be able to see from the pics how high it is, although in real life it looks way worse!
(https://i.postimg.cc/BZr2gL5Y/20230328-224743.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7bNCPLW0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XY3FRRz9/20230328-224751.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F7W7cBmK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/28nhXk2z/20230328-224803.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Xp7rr0Rh)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Hk25d6qR/20230328-224815.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PCCNMQrQ)
So yeah the resulting options are....
- use a very very soft linear spring, that will give a consistent feel, allow for more camber but be way too soft on the track
- use a stiffer linear spring, that will give a consistent feel, allow for more camber but have almost no bump travel
- use a stiffer linear spring, that will give a consistent feel, allow for more camber but very very high ride height and then high CoG
- continue to use bilstein springs, that are overly soft before being loaded up on turn-in and only allow the car to a max of -2.3 deg camber but allow for a ideal ride height and so a much lower CoG
So in my opinion the only option is to continue to run bilsteins, pretty crappy result after all the effort and money I've put into this.
This article sums up the fundamentals well here, although took me some time to really grasp some aspects and do some other research on top https://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/coilovers-installing-and-setting-ride-height-correctly/.
I know a lot more about suspension than I did a month ago but left feeling quite deflated after wasting quite a number of hours of taking the suspension on and off and wasting a good chunk of money over a spring and solid top mount collection....
So I think next I will refit the bilstein springs, sort out some better brake ducting and get the thing booked into retro resus then for a few jobs:
- rear control arms refurbished and bushings changed ( I took some of the arms off the other day, bushings are awful and I cannot be bothered with doing it myself now)
- ditch the aircon and majority of air bags
- corner weight
I was going to switch to a Varley red top battery and get it relocated towards the rear of the car with an internal cut off switch but think I may just look to save some cost for now and maybe stick in a basic toyota aygo battery or something for 40 quid off of ebay as a quick cheap solution for now that still saves 7+kg.
If anyone does want a brand new set of Compbrake top mounts, or even any length of 450/375 pound springs, let me know.
Post by: pudding on April 06, 2023, 11:15:02 am
The one thing I loved about the Ohlins was they were just fit and forget. All the preloads, damper travel, ride height etc was all worked out, and no buggering about with helper springs. They don't even use them at all, which is another great thing. It's literally just mounting the spring perch threads at the right position on the strut for the task at hand.
I'm guessing the Bilsteins are designed to ride a lot lower, so the threads are a lot further down the strut, which is why you're possibly struggling? Did you experiment with 8" front springs to ditch the helpers?
I would mount the stock battery in the boot personally. It's 20Kg in a better place for weight distribution and has none of the draw backs of a small battery. Don't forget the PAS eats a LOT of current.
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 06, 2023, 11:49:29 am
Welcome to the wonderful & annoying world of suspension tuning :grin:
The one thing I loved about the Ohlins was they were just fit and forget. All the preloads, damper travel, ride height etc was all worked out, and no buggering about with helper springs. They don't even use them at all, which is another great thing. It's literally just mounting the spring perch threads at the right position on the strut for the task at hand.
I'm guessing the Bilsteins are designed to ride a lot lower, so the threads are a lot further down the strut, which is why you're possibly struggling? Did you experiment with 8" front springs to ditch the helpers?
I would mount the stock battery in the boot personally. It's 20Kg in a better place for weight distribution and has none of the draw backs of a small battery. Don't forget the PAS eats a LOT of current.
Yeah lesson learnt! Yeah it's definitely made me question more off the shelf stuff that's a bit more on the reasonable price side with no bump tuning available and poor set up guides from the manufacturer whether its actually quite limited setup in reality.
I think after learning what I know now for around the 1k/1.2k mark I'd either go for something custom so I can nag them into getting the right ride height and travel or something with travel adjustment built in so I can get it just right.
But yeah you do know you're in safe hands with the big boy names like Ohlins, AST, Nitron etc.
Yeah I tried 8 inches ones and it was just massively too high, like oem height at absolute best and still not great travel left either.
Battery is buggered I think, takes forever to charge, and lasts no time at all, I found some acid residue under neath it so I'm going to take that as a sign to replace . You are right but I'm just feeling fed up now :grin: so thinking of just replacing with a very cheap citroen c1 battery for now and re think the battery situation in a year or 2. Ahhh did not think about PAS... definitely need to give that some thought actually!
Post by: pudding on April 06, 2023, 06:26:26 pm
All this faffing about makes you realise why OEMs do the things the way they do with suspension :smiley: You wouldn't think simple springs and dampers could be so complicated, not to mention all the geometry and roll centre related stuff on top!
Yeah the more popular coilover kits tend to be a bit too generic and cover a lot of versions of the same car, where as the higher end stuff is model/spec specific. I thought it was strange when I got my Ohlins that the ride height adjustment was only +/- 15mm. Then I saw they literally only give you an inch of threads on the front struts :grin: They basically pre-configured it to lower the car 20mm. And sure enough, every corner was dropped exactly that. No helpers and only 2mm of spring preload. It was like fitting fixed strut suspension, it just went on and worked a treat :smiley: Shame the cost of entry to such convenience is so high.
I'm just not a fan of helpers, or having to wind in shed loads of spring preload to raise the car up, it just ruins the ride and reduces travel.
Shame the taller springs didn't work out. You would think that would be an obvious fix, but clearly not!
Custom can work out really well. I think I mentioned before, but years ago Gaz knocked up a set of Gold coilovers for me, based on gross vehicle and axle weights, desired height range, stiffness preferences, majority use (road or track) etc etc, and that worked out great. It just plopped on and worked like the Ohlins :happy2: The only downside was the quality. The piston rods started shedding it's chrome plating after about 12 months :doh: Couldn't fault the ride or handling though, because it was made that specific car :happy2:
Unfortunately, that or the big boy kits might be the only way achieve what you want, or just stick a B12 kit on there and be done with it :grin:
Oh well, don't give up. You're on the right track, pun intended :grin:
Did you try longer helpers and shorter mains?
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 06, 2023, 08:10:54 pm
Yeah you're right in terms of oem design, the TT is an example of that, the amount it would cost to design and engineer a bunch of alloy hubs and wishbones wirh different geometry just to make it a little sportier on top of the various designs they alresdy make for other mk5 era cars, would have thought they'd just stick some tougher dampers on and be done with it.
Yeah think you're right there. May as well just wirh this setup now and only re think it once I either go big boy or custom via Gaz. Some light weight hubs is probably the only near future suspension upgrade I imagine for now!
I tried 5,6,7 and 8 inch springs just to be sure. Told you I did waste a good chunk there :grin:
Post by: pudding on April 07, 2023, 11:29:56 am
Yeah I reckon they've addressed the quality issues by now. It was circa 2006 I got a set and they hadn't been in operation that long at that point. Yeah I used the Comp brake top mounts on my Corrado many moons ago. I would recommend switching out the spherical bearings for NMB or Aurora (Merlin Motorsport sell them) as the ones supplied in mine only lasted 1000 miles :grin:
Yeah exactly, those lengths are what it takes merely to run a car low whilst keeping the roll centre where it needs to be :happy2: It's a hell of a lot of changes over a Golf! The TT is easily the sportiest setup car of the Golf platform cars :happy2:
:grin: Oh well, I guess all that faff is what we pay someone else to figure out :grin:
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 10, 2023, 08:30:55 am
£300 is pretty good :happy2: Much better than the UK outfits that want £1000 to rebuild Ohlins coilovers :stupid: :grin: Needless to say, they are still rotting in my parts cupboard :grin: I might sneak them onto the MK6 TDI when the missus isn't looking :grin: Also got the MK7.5R front brakes to chuck on as well :grin:
Yeah I reckon they've addressed the quality issues by now. It was circa 2006 I got a set and they hadn't been in operation that long at that point. Yeah I used the Comp brake top mounts on my Corrado many moons ago. I would recommend switching out the spherical bearings for NMB or Aurora (Merlin Motorsport sell them) as the ones supplied in mine only lasted 1000 miles :grin:
Yeah exactly, those lengths are what it takes merely to run a car low whilst keeping the roll centre where it needs to be :happy2: It's a hell of a lot of changes over a Golf! The TT is easily the sportiest setup car of the Golf platform cars :happy2:
:grin: Oh well, I guess all that faff is what we pay someone else to figure out :grin:
Surprised you have not flogged the Ohlins yet! Lots of grubby hand would love to a get a bargain on a set of them I bet.
Yeah It did come to mind that such a well priced top mount might have crappy bearings :grin: I did note that the sleeve nut on one side would not slide into the bearing with a bit of a thwack compared to the other side so that was a slight hint :grin: For under £200 though what can you expect, still great value.
Yeah, the "hairdresser's car" that every loves to say actually has some really cool engineer-y bits on it.
Did just whip to Halfords yesterday on saturday and stuck a 063 battery in, classic Ford Fiesta/Vauxhall Corsa style battery, runs absolutely fine with it. Weighed the new one in at 10.3kg, the old one at 16.7kg, it may be heavier than that when new as it has leaked a bit but a minimum weight saving of 6.4kg for a grand total of £45 is pretty decent still.
Post by: pudding on April 11, 2023, 03:38:28 pm
£300 is pretty good :happy2: Much better than the UK outfits that want £1000 to rebuild Ohlins coilovers :stupid: :grin: Needless to say, they are still rotting in my parts cupboard :grin: I might sneak them onto the MK6 TDI when the missus isn't looking :grin: Also got the MK7.5R front brakes to chuck on as well :grin:
Yeah I reckon they've addressed the quality issues by now. It was circa 2006 I got a set and they hadn't been in operation that long at that point. Yeah I used the Comp brake top mounts on my Corrado many moons ago. I would recommend switching out the spherical bearings for NMB or Aurora (Merlin Motorsport sell them) as the ones supplied in mine only lasted 1000 miles :grin:
Yeah exactly, those lengths are what it takes merely to run a car low whilst keeping the roll centre where it needs to be :happy2: It's a hell of a lot of changes over a Golf! The TT is easily the sportiest setup car of the Golf platform cars :happy2:
:grin: Oh well, I guess all that faff is what we pay someone else to figure out :grin:
Surprised you have not flogged the Ohlins yet! Lots of grubby hand would love to a get a bargain on a set of them I bet.
Yeah It did come to mind that such a well priced top mount might have crappy bearings :grin: I did note that the sleeve nut on one side would not slide into the bearing with a bit of a thwack compared to the other side so that was a slight hint :grin: For under £200 though what can you expect, still great value.
Yeah, the "hairdresser's car" that every loves to say actually has some really cool engineer-y bits on it.
Did just whip to Halfords yesterday on saturday and stuck a 063 battery in, classic Ford Fiesta/Vauxhall Corsa style battery, runs absolutely fine with it. Weighed the new one in at 10.3kg, the old one at 16.7kg, it may be heavier than that when new as it has leaked a bit but a minimum weight saving of 6.4kg for a grand total of £45 is pretty decent still.
The front two need a rebuild as it's an early version of the kit with a nylon bearing sleeve that wears out prematurely, causing a knocking noise at slow speeds. They revised that part in the later kits, typically! I'm not one for selling stuff with caveats :grin: It's like all those car adverts with "Just needs an oil change" or "Runs a bit rough, just needs a coil" :grin: Yeah right, it were that cheap and simple, they'd have done it already :stupid:
:grin: yeah some slight issues with the build quality. The good ones are 3x the price though!
Yeah shame really as it's way better than a Golf in terms of handling and weight distribution! The Boxster was also technically a superb car, better than the 911 in some respects, but it was also afflicted by the same stereotype, or "You bought that because you can't afford a 911" :grin:
Cool, so long as you don't get any juddering from the steering at full lock in the winter, you can call that a win then :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 20, 2023, 10:09:05 pm
Yeah I bet you're right on that. Personally the cayman/boxster is more on my radar than the 911's, the idea of driving a 911 quickly sounds frightening to me I still don't understand how they don't fly off the road with their engine layout:grin:
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 20, 2023, 11:15:49 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/wB876vWt/20230325-095813.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jDcscsYK)
(https://i.postimg.cc/Yq04RTGS/20230325-095848.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JGw446Qw)
I cleaned up the spare TT 8J hubs the other day, they look like they have some tiger pattern in this picture where I wire-wheeled them but they look good and polished in person. I was messing about with mocking up some kind of brake duct bracket, but the only way to get it to work to fit between the caliper and hub is some sort of reducer pipe that goes from about 2 to maybe 0.5 inches and weld it on. I don't think its really worth the effort and money frankly, so just going to point as closer as possibly to that gap between the caliper and hub as I can without causing issues.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7YrHGc3c/20230408-100837.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dDnPg5Sm)
I found this on an evo forum of the reducer pipe to bracket ducting solution
(https://i.postimg.cc/Wz6QJ9jL/Screenshot-20230327-232459-Gallery.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1VXWkrfJ)
I did speak to Suspension Secrets the other day about my recent trial-and-errors not going so well. They basically said there is no issue with what I was trying, and the bump travel will be no less if the ride height is the same so I could actually persevere. So after all that, taking the front dampers off about 8 times I think all for nothing :grin: I was actually close to getting a new spring setup! I've put it on hold now and will come back to it later in the year I think when I start to get itchy again to tinker.
I came across this picture on this forum, which was posted quite some years ago now
(https://i.postimg.cc/pXkfX34Q/Screenshot-20230418-223435-Chrome.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/56YYsKxj)
Its a droop strap on the rear of a Production GTI race car, I've heard of these being used in these series but no where else quite weirdly. Its an interesting idea though, shorten the droop to get the rear inside wheel off the ground easier and rotate the car easier. It is usually found on off-roaders, not much info on it being used for track/race cars though.
Trs sell these https://www.trs-motorsport.com/suspension-limiting-strap.html, I think you could tie it down from the rear damper top mount bolt and the damper to hub bolt. It's adjustable as well so I was wondering if you could use it as a tuning tool. So.... if the damper is say 20 inches long fully extended and and 17 inches long when it hits the bump stop and 19 inches long when its on level ground, that means 1 inch is for droop. So you could tighten up the slack on the strap at full droop and then mark points on the strap at points that equal certain lengths of the damper, like mark a line at 1 inch of droop, half an inch of droop and 0 droop. So might stick it at full droop for the road and then quickly adjust to 0.5 inch at the track for example? Just a theory at the moment but again something to tinker with later in the year.
When I stuck the bilstein stuff back, I lowered the subframe a little to get it into position easier, I realised there is a fair bit of forward-rear movement of the subframe when its loose. So I moved it as far forward as possible and the front hubs are definitely more forward, I wish I measured it before and after but it was quite noticeable when under the car the difference in position. The more forward the hub is of the upper damper mounting location means the more positive caster we get, so maybe a wee freebie in terms of performance. Maybe they're meant to be that far forward though and mine was just way too far back for whatever reason so its now just "correct". You can see how much more forward the subframe has gone here, a good couple of mm:
(https://i.postimg.cc/9Q105h4T/20230420-202650.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HrcdXF9s)
Post by: pudding on April 22, 2023, 12:34:14 am
It did always puzzle me about how people adjust camber plates, and it seems you have the answer :happy2:
If you're planning on fitting 4 pots to those Audi hubs, you might be OK with just the mass of bigger discs to dissipate heat, but nice plan looking into ducting. Even with the monster brakes BTCC cars use, they still have ducting, so it must be effective :happy2:
Are you going full TT with the wishbones and steering rack? That would be a great setup for roll center correction and improved steering :happy2:
Hopefully not too much wheel poke as MK5 arches aren't particularly generous!
Not seen those droop straps before. Interesting! Would limiting the droop not also limit the damper's rebound travel? Then again, coilovers tend to have less travel anyway so it might work well in practice :happy2:
Yeah there's a lot of slack in the subframe mounting holes! I didn't even get half a degree extra caster from SuperPro's claimed +1 degree console bushes :grin: I reckon you'd have to shunt the struts forward about 10mm to get a degree more, which the console bushes aren't even close to. That would be a good move if easily achievable :happy2:
Post by: GilesWoodward59 on April 22, 2023, 10:14:52 am
£300 is pretty good :happy2: Much better than the UK outfits that want £1000 to rebuild Ohlins coilovers :stupid: :grin: Needless to say, they are still rotting in my parts cupboard :grin: I might sneak them onto the MK6 TDI when the missus isn't looking :grin: Also got the MK7.5R front brakes to chuck on as well :grin:
Yeah I reckon they've addressed the quality issues by now. It was circa 2006 I got a set and they hadn't been in operation that long at that point. Yeah I used the Comp brake top mounts on my Corrado many moons ago. I would recommend switching out the spherical bearings for NMB or Aurora (Merlin Motorsport sell them) as the ones supplied in mine only lasted 1000 miles :grin:
Yeah exactly, those lengths are what it takes merely to run a car low whilst keeping the roll centre where it needs to be :happy2: It's a hell of a lot of changes over a Golf! The TT is easily the sportiest setup car of the Golf platform cars :happy2:
:grin: Oh well, I guess all that faff is what we pay someone else to figure out :grin:
Surprised you have not flogged the Ohlins yet! Lots of grubby hand would love to a get a bargain on a set of them I bet.
Yeah It did come to mind that such a well priced top mount might have crappy bearings :grin: I did note that the sleeve nut on one side would not slide into the bearing with a bit of a thwack compared to the other side so that was a slight hint :grin: For under £200 though what can you expect, still great value.
Yeah, the "hairdresser's car" that every loves to say actually has some really cool engineer-y bits on it.
Did just whip to Halfords yesterday on saturday and stuck a 063 battery in, classic Ford Fiesta/Vauxhall Corsa style battery, runs absolutely fine with it. Weighed the new one in at 10.3kg, the old one at 16.7kg, it may be heavier than that when new as it has leaked a bit but a minimum weight saving of 6.4kg for a grand total of £45 is pretty decent still.
The front two need a rebuild as it's an early version of the kit with a nylon bearing sleeve that wears out prematurely, causing a knocking noise at slow speeds. They revised that part in the later kits, typically! I'm not one for selling stuff with caveats :grin: It's like all those car adverts with "Just needs an oil change" or "Runs a bit rough, just needs a coil" :grin: Yeah right, it were that cheap and simple, they'd have done it already :stupid:
:grin: yeah some slight issues with the build quality. The good ones are 3x the price though!
Yeah shame really as it's way better than a Golf in terms of handling and weight distribution! The Boxster was also technically a superb car, better than the 911 in some respects, but it was also afflicted by the same stereotype, or "You bought that because you can't afford a 911" :grin:
Cool, so long as you don't get any juddering from the steering at full lock in the winter, you can call that a win then :happy2:
Lol, I once bought a 924s because I couldn’t afford a Boxster :driver:
Good car actually, apart from the rust…
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 27, 2023, 10:06:53 pm
Haha, it's just decades of persevering with a dumb layout regarding 911s :grin: I haven't driven any modern porkers, but I did drive a mate's 993 3.6 and that thing was glued to the road. They have a very unique feel. I can see why people like them :happy2:
It did always puzzle me about how people adjust camber plates, and it seems you have the answer :happy2:
If you're planning on fitting 4 pots to those Audi hubs, you might be OK with just the mass of bigger discs to dissipate heat, but nice plan looking into ducting. Even with the monster brakes BTCC cars use, they still have ducting, so it must be effective :happy2:
Are you going full TT with the wishbones and steering rack? That would be a great setup for roll center correction and improved steering :happy2:
Hopefully not too much wheel poke as MK5 arches aren't particularly generous!
Not seen those droop straps before. Interesting! Would limiting the droop not also limit the damper's rebound travel? Then again, coilovers tend to have less travel anyway so it might work well in practice :happy2:
Yeah there's a lot of slack in the subframe mounting holes! I didn't even get half a degree extra caster from SuperPro's claimed +1 degree console bushes :grin: I reckon you'd have to shunt the struts forward about 10mm to get a degree more, which the console bushes aren't even close to. That would be a good move if easily achievable :happy2:
I drove a 2007/2008 911, not sure on the model number or spec and was told to drive it very gently so at that speed just felt like any other stiff heavy german car frankly! I'm sure they are great when you're giving them some hence the following and various race car variants.
Yeah what I've noticed is the TCR cars I've seen have big fat ducts to the brakes but they tape over them by a certain percentage until they get the right temps for the pad and disc to work at best.
I was going to initially but from watching an old Darkside video recently they opted against the TT rack because it wasn't quite right for their customesuspension setup but they also said lock to lock its only slightly less and with such an expensive build on their golf they were happy using the caddy steering rack which I'm sure is not any quicker than the golfs so I may leave it to just save some £'s, but then again I could get the rack just because it will have all the steering arms installed ready to go and then it simply bolts in (with some coding-in on top) and yeah I am fully expecting to grind those arches down! It only just fits now with the TT arms and at this ride height.
Yeah would limit the rebound, if done correctly you will have the same bump but less rebound, effectively shortening the damper but without effecting bump travel.
Yeah its asparational agreed but if there is slack may as well get it as far forward as possible I was thinking!
Post by: Clarkj93 on April 27, 2023, 10:27:34 pm
Anyway.. I bagged them for £170 delivered! Considering just 1 brand new Ar-1 is £180 what an absolute bargain. So chuffed with that I had to brag about it. :grin:
(https://i.postimg.cc/TwL7wy3N/20230427-162010.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQz9HgS5)
It was also interesting to see they had them mounted oddly. These tyres are supposedly non-directional but you can see by the wear that they've mounted them as if they are. They're marked as having an "INSIDE" and "OUTSIDE" to the tyre where as the NS2R's have a directional marker, I contacted Nankang anyway to confirm and they specified you must have the OUTSIDE label on the OUTSIDE and that even though the direction looks odd this is expected and part of the tyre design so they were Darkside were seemingly running the INSIDE on the wrong side which is strange.... maybe it doesn't matter and its just a tyre balancing thing but found that unusual anyway.
Post by: pudding on April 30, 2023, 02:22:13 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 01, 2023, 10:03:33 pm
Bargain! They look meaty and grippy! Weird switching the rotation round like that. Maybe they had their reasons as they're all about track work there?
Yeah I thought that. I wonder if it's just an over sight on their side as maybe as Nankang did confirm that 100% it does give a non symmetrical look when setup correctly. Maybe one sides sidewall is stiffer to the other or something? I drove the ns2r's the wrong way around before anyway and it felt like easy a second a lap slower and the car was moving around a lot so I'm just going to do what Nankang tell me form now on :grin:
Post by: Clarky on May 02, 2023, 03:26:26 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 02, 2023, 03:47:04 pm
I have to ask about the turret tops as i too have adjustable top mounts that are a total sh*t to get close to..i can see there was the gentle kiss of an angle grinder involved...but how did you do it and is there any worry about taking rigidity away from the top of the strut? My settings are very track focussed and aggressive for a car that spends 90% of its time on the road and if i could make quicker adjustments than taking it to my mates garage every time its gonna go track/road and back that would be a good thing. I did look at doing it when i fitted the top mounts but couldn't find anyone who had done it and didn't want to get too crazy with the grinder myself...any help or advise is very welcome!
Yeah so entire damper out and wipers and wiper panel off and cover everything in sight as best you can - engine bay, wings, windscreen and then cut with a grinder. It was a bit fiddly to get the grinder in that tight spot but did it eventually. I did make a hell of a mess in doing it which is why I say cover everything and not just the engine bay like I did.
Nah should not effect rigidity at all as we are not changing how or where the damper is mounted or how one side of the chassis is connected to the other side.
Just bare in mind also that changing camber settings on the fly will also effect toe settings and vice versa.
Post by: pudding on May 05, 2023, 09:01:31 pm
I would say they should have fitted them with the row of smaller cuts on the inboard side, but I'm no track tyre expert. Looking at the inboard camber wear, they had them reversed as you say :grin:
'Finessing' the turret tops with a grinder won't affect rigidity, although if that does concern you, stick a strut brace across em' :happy2: I'm sure I've seen one that anchors in 3 places. Both turret tops and the firewall, which is ideal.
I've seen Darkside using shimable wishbones which seems really trick and simple. They just shove in say, 15mm shims to get 2.5-3 degrees, then trim the toe accordingly and they're off. And simply take them out for road duties. The shims being a fixed length, makes it super quick, easy and consistent. Just thinking that may be easier than adjusting top mounts, especially if you do it regularly switching from road to track.
Have you thought about some basic DIY alignment tools? You don't always need an expensive 4 wheel alignment setup each time if only the front is changing.
Another thing worthy of consideration when running tyres like that is stitch welding the chassis rails. Did you see Darkside's video of their track MK5 that has the MK6 bodykit? After a few sessions with semi slicks, he mentioned the spot welds on the chassis legs were pulling apart :surprised:
That was actually a thing back in my Corrado days where we used to stitch weld the front subframes and engine mount cups for the same reason.
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 08, 2023, 10:16:53 pm
Shim-able wishbones sounds awesome, I did have a quick google but cannot find any pics of real world examples. I imagine its not going to be something that is easily made by a weekend diy-er.
Wow did not think you could do that kind of wear unless you were running big fat slicks and aero like a TCR car does.
Post by: pudding on May 12, 2023, 07:27:28 pm
I also watched one of REPerformance's videos recently where Ryan took his MK5 down to their dyno as it's a track certified one. Apparently a lot of folk were complaining his MK5 is too fast, so must be cheating by running more power :grin: Sore losers :grin:
Anyway, yeah the forces have to go somewhere when running track suspension and tyres....and when everything else stops breaking, the bodyshell itself then takes the brunt :grin:
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 14, 2023, 08:33:37 pm
Yeah they showed them in one of their videos, I couldn't tell you which one though :grin: I saw that and though what an epic idea. I think they bought them in. They didn't mention it being something they made at least. I think they switched to the mega bucks Verkline subframes and arms after that.
I also watched one of REPerformance's videos recently where Ryan took his MK5 down to their dyno as it's a track certified one. Apparently a lot of folk were complaining his MK5 is too fast, so must be cheating by running more power :grin: Sore losers :grin:
Anyway, yeah the forces have to go somewhere when running track suspension and tyres....and when everything else stops breaking, the bodyshell itself then takes the brunt :grin:
Yeah they've cracked a couple of those Verklin subframes mind you. I think some of the btcc cars eithe before or currently didn't even have subframes, just control arms mounted directly to the chassis.
Yeah I did see that actually. Tbh I don't think anyone does as much R&D as Darkside and Area motorsports which is why it's always one of them winning each round and everyone is else trying to grass them up for somethin :grin: that's why I'm glued to all their videos to try and get little nuggets of development info.
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 14, 2023, 09:00:01 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/nL7Zkcdk/20230429-153449.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gwYfcdbX)
Bought a 2nd set of 18 inch Monza's, but over ebay online and tbh they're in a right sh*t state. Corrosion everywhere, very annoying. I have learnt my lesson though never buy cheap wheels on the internet :grin: I'll be refurbing them with flap discs and wire wheels to get corrosion off and then just sanding down and doing a quick paint job. These will be the dedicated track tyre set.
(https://i.postimg.cc/tRVqRkdf/20230505-174922.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G9dwqk5J)
It got dropped off yesterday at Retro Resus. God its horrible to drive on the road now :grin: I'm sure its great up the brecon beacons and equivelant driving roads but on the m4 it's horrid :grin:
They're going to:
Delete the air conditioning
Remove majority of air bags
Shot blast and paint the rear subframe and control arms and install all SP bushes
Corner weight
Set alignment to max front camber, O.5 degrees less rear camber, 1mm front toe out and 2mm rear toe out
I also noted on the way down the seat is way too high and too far forward despite being as far back as it will go and as low as it will go so hoping they can find a way to fix that too. I also asked for the total weight to be reported so that will be interesting to find out - my guess is about 1250kg
Post by: pudding on May 28, 2023, 12:50:55 am
I remember in my very naughty days of dumping the PCV gases to atmosphere via a long regular grade silicon hose pointing at the ground.....yeah....the hose turned to mush after about 6 months :grin:
Deleting the A/C is a quality move, not sure about deleting the air bags though :grin:
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 28, 2023, 09:24:01 pm
haha never considered doing that actually, I will try my best to refrain from that approach :grin:
Well AC is staying for now... there was some confusion when it was booked and time restraints meant they're going to leave it for now, not that bothered as the bill is large enough already so :grin: I might have a crack myself later in the year, just thought if I had to have it de-gassed they must as well do the whole thing. The idea of a blower and some ducting have entered my mind as replacement like this one https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/demon-tweeks-in-line-blower-fans-242248/ so swapping a heavy front end 10kg unit that hurts temps and replacing with a 4 inch electric blower aimed directly at the driver, logistics of that is for another time however.
I still have not picked it up yet as I've been busy but its sat waiting currently for next weekend for me. Hopefully they made a note of total weight as I forgot to ask the other day over the phone.
Josh who set it up last time and who I ran into at Pembrey last year mentioned they cannot adjust the seat as it will hurt the integrity of the seat base so they've left it for now and advised to find some universal side mounts that will have far more extreme options in terms of height available. All air bags are now gone though, they mentioned they can leave the steering wheel one in but it would never go off as the front air bags work off the oem seat belt which is now gone so may as well ditch. I know what you're saying about air bags :grin: but with a helmet no air bags is supposedly safer anyway and the amount of road miles will be very small until the car is caged with a harness anyway.
They've put the idea in my head of taking it racing, hillclimbs/sprints will definitely be on the cards for next year but they were mentioning they got have some good links in a few close to home series and can assist in getting to that point... would love to but budget is not there just yet, maybe in a couple of years. It will definitely be going in for a welded up roll cage however next year to meet regs for sprinting and they did mention they can ditch the oem seat mounts and weld in a new base thats custom fit for me so I can try and get it as far back and low as possible that is still drive-able for me and without having to re-engineer the entire pedal and steering wheel position.
I need to stop faffing about with my trying to find extra performance here and there and just focus on getting it to meet regulations, even if its slow in its class at least it is eligibile and being used rather than a fast car that sits on a private piece of land year in year out :grin:
So the focus right now and over the next 12 months will be only very cheap and free mods asside from repairs and maintenance to raise those funds which will be things like:
Build up better brake ducting
Remove any weight possible without cost that allows it to remain road legal
Any cheap/easy/free mods to allow better cooling (that actually work!)
Relocate battery
refurb 2nd set of wheels
try again to convert to solid top mounts and linear springs
Anything else is just not needed right now so I need to pull my finger out :grin:
Bit boring to have no pics I know but I have been reading and watching a lot of Julian Edgar recently on aerodynamics and would highly recommend to anyone, its made me realise just HOW MUCH can be improved on the golf and how many quite mainstream mods out there are probably hurting drag, IAT's, cooling and lift. He shows just how easy you can test this stuff yourself with about 50 quids worth of equipment, its pretty cool.
Post by: Marticus on May 29, 2023, 09:41:27 am
As there is not much off the shelf I'm playing with 3d scanning and am hoping to eventually have something in carbon fiber pulled from 3d printed molds.
I'm fairly confident that it's achievable, but I'm having to climb a steep learning curve with the 3d design part of things as the scans I took are too big and details for the simple program I was using in the past.
Anyway give me a shout if you have any ideas or want to coordinate, this isn't something I'm trying to profit from I'm hoping to eventually have some designs that anyone can get 3d printed directly in abs, or print molds for carbon / fiberglass.
Post by: Clarkj93 on May 29, 2023, 09:21:08 pm
Looks like you're making good progress. Regarding brake ducting, this is something I'm currently playing with.
As there is not much off the shelf I'm playing with 3d scanning and am hoping to eventually have something in carbon fiber pulled from 3d printed molds.
I'm fairly confident that it's achievable, but I'm having to climb a steep learning curve with the 3d design part of things as the scans I took are too big and details for the simple program I was using in the past.
Anyway give me a shout if you have any ideas or want to coordinate, this isn't something I'm trying to profit from I'm hoping to eventually have some designs that anyone can get 3d printed directly in abs, or print molds for carbon / fiberglass.
Very cool stuff. So my understanding is, with a caliper that requires an adapter like the ttrs calipers and porsche stuff this creates a larger gap from the hub to the caliper allowing more freedom in terms of brake ducting design. This is how it appears in pictures anyway so that is worth noting.
Byc have an interesting idea attaching a bracket to the guide pins here
https://bycdesigns.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=100
Also any alloy hub from a s3/passat/TT will have a sort of wider hub making brake ducting even more difficult to design than with the std gti one.
I think a duct to the gap between the hub and caliper is probably the best option if possible.
I do have a TT hub in the shed though so I can test fit stuff quite easily and if I need to get hold of a dust shield or cheap caliper to trial it should be inexpensive and quick to check so happy to help.
For the meantime I will jam a double skin duct to the caliper and protect it with silicone tape, it will get crushed on full lock and will need to be maintained but should be an OK temporary solution.
Post by: Marticus on May 29, 2023, 10:10:09 pm
I havent got to the hub end yet, i had the idea that i could create a modified dust sheild with the ducting exiting there, with maybe some right angle off the back to allow for clearance but that will need some more investigation.
I hadnt even considered different brake types either which is especially short sighted as im in the process of upgrading. But its not going to be a fast process anyway an the good thing about digital design and 3d printing is that its easy enough to modify and change things.
Right now im focused on the intake side and was planning on replacing the current foglight panel with a proper duct, with the possibility of having the intake on the left side split to provide fresh air to an induction kit for example.
Issue is that there are a few obstructions directly behind the bumper there so the intake will have to snake its way around those, again another advantage of 3d printing, but no so easy on the design side.
Anyway like i said, nothing will be ready soon but i will probably make a thread here once i have something more solid to show for my work and to get some feedback from everyone.
Post by: bobby_fodge on May 30, 2023, 12:09:02 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 04, 2023, 04:43:18 pm
Good information there thanks, thats a cool product as well.
I havent got to the hub end yet, i had the idea that i could create a modified dust sheild with the ducting exiting there, with maybe some right angle off the back to allow for clearance but that will need some more investigation.
I hadnt even considered different brake types either which is especially short sighted as im in the process of upgrading. But its not going to be a fast process anyway an the good thing about digital design and 3d printing is that its easy enough to modify and change things.
Right now im focused on the intake side and was planning on replacing the current foglight panel with a proper duct, with the possibility of having the intake on the left side split to provide fresh air to an induction kit for example.
Issue is that there are a few obstructions directly behind the bumper there so the intake will have to snake its way around those, again another advantage of 3d printing, but no so easy on the design side.
Anyway like i said, nothing will be ready soon but i will probably make a thread here once i have something more solid to show for my work and to get some feedback from everyone.
Duct3d have a product for the fog light hole, it looks decent quality. https://www.duct3d.co.uk/shop/p/vauxhall-astra-h-vxr-foglight-adapters-in-black-53y3f-xdwg2-4r3fk
The real challenge is getting it to the centre of the disc and not the disc face while still clearing the drive shaft, it is going to require some funky looking reducing cylinders welded to some sort of bracket I think so that's why I kinda given up on that idea. If my current idea is not enough I'll probably just install an additional set of ducts.
You can definitely heat up the washer bottle and bend it out the way and also the horns brackets they are mounted to are easy to modify with a hammer to allow you to re-position them out the way.
I've actually today ditched my intake duct today, don't think its required. After reading up on some aerodynamics stuff lately the oem intake slot is in a high pressure zone already so adding another duct probably just adds drag and nothing else. But if you just like the look/idea of it then I won't judge :grin:
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 04, 2023, 04:44:42 pm
I had that ECS pcv hose and it collapsed when the engine ran. Stuck the original plastic one back on and kept a spare for when it gets brittle and cracks.
I've heard that happen on others before but I definitely believe it could happen on the ECS ones too.
Post by: Marticus on June 04, 2023, 06:25:43 pm
Duct3d have a product for the fog light hole, it looks decent quality. https://www.duct3d.co.uk/shop/p/vauxhall-astra-h-vxr-foglight-adapters-in-black-53y3f-xdwg2-4r3fk
The real challenge is getting it to the centre of the disc and not the disc face while still clearing the drive shaft, it is going to require some funky looking reducing cylinders welded to some sort of bracket I think so that's why I kinda given up on that idea. If my current idea is not enough I'll probably just install an additional set of ducts.
You can definitely heat up the washer bottle and bend it out the way and also the horns brackets they are mounted to are easy to modify with a hammer to allow you to re-position them out the way.
I've actually today ditched my intake duct today, don't think its required. After reading up on some aerodynamics stuff lately the oem intake slot is in a high pressure zone already so adding another duct probably just adds drag and nothing else. But if you just like the look/idea of it then I won't judge :grin:
Haha, interesting, sounds like you're way ahead of me in this process! Good point about the aerodynamics, I had wondered if its possible to get a proper 3d scan of a golf v to do some digital wind tunnel testing on these kind of changes.
The only other option is a lot of track time and real world testing, which could get costly fast.
Outside of the brake ducting this month I was planning on buying aa cheap diy(ish) tempurature monitoring solution with five thermometers for monitoring the intake pathe to the engine, to see where improvements can be made.
It's getting a bit over the top for me who hasn't even had the car on track yet lmao.
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 04, 2023, 07:38:12 pm
Duct3d have a product for the fog light hole, it looks decent quality. https://www.duct3d.co.uk/shop/p/vauxhall-astra-h-vxr-foglight-adapters-in-black-53y3f-xdwg2-4r3fk
The real challenge is getting it to the centre of the disc and not the disc face while still clearing the drive shaft, it is going to require some funky looking reducing cylinders welded to some sort of bracket I think so that's why I kinda given up on that idea. If my current idea is not enough I'll probably just install an additional set of ducts.
You can definitely heat up the washer bottle and bend it out the way and also the horns brackets they are mounted to are easy to modify with a hammer to allow you to re-position them out the way.
I've actually today ditched my intake duct today, don't think its required. After reading up on some aerodynamics stuff lately the oem intake slot is in a high pressure zone already so adding another duct probably just adds drag and nothing else. But if you just like the look/idea of it then I won't judge :grin:
Haha, interesting, sounds like you're way ahead of me in this process! Good point about the aerodynamics, I had wondered if its possible to get a proper 3d scan of a golf v to do some digital wind tunnel testing on these kind of changes.
The only other option is a lot of track time and real world testing, which could get costly fast.
Outside of the brake ducting this month I was planning on buying aa cheap diy(ish) tempurature monitoring solution with five thermometers for monitoring the intake pathe to the engine, to see where improvements can be made.
It's getting a bit over the top for me who hasn't even had the car on track yet lmao.
I would highly recommend this book https://www.amazon.co.uk/Modifying-Aerodynamics-Your-Road-SpeedPro/dp/1787112837 he talks about how you can measure efficiency of an intake, and any ducting/cooling via a magnehelic guage and some tubing to a high level of accuracy, all can be had for £35 or so.
Its also worth looking at the old BTCC parts that you can still buy here https://absmotorsport.co.uk/product-category/vw-2/golf-mk5/ because AmD who built a mk5 TCR car would have very likely wind tested it and tested thoroughly cooling efficiency. Not that their design can't be improved mind you, as they only used basic bonnet louvre vents for example, but now the modern VAG tcr stuff all use those plus a big vent in the middle of the bonnet with the intercooler completely re-located from the normal front position to at angle pointed out of the middle vent almost on top of the engine.
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 04, 2023, 09:24:23 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/j5jKfQh3/20230603-103118.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2qgPRWMn)
Now fully polybushed front and rear with SuperPro. Interestingly, the ride is substantially smoother which I didn't expect, those old bushes must have just been that bad! I did notice they replaced one of the control arms so it was corroded that bad so it was in quite a state in the end. Another unexpected surprise was the car is much more fuel efficient, a quick 20 minute drive across the motorway to home and 1 or 2 hard pulls so not driving economically really saw over 40mpg on average, nice surprise that!
I did have a chat with the owner Tom at Retro Resus about a cage for next year, got a rough estimated quote for a drive-in/drive-out weld in Production Gti championship spec cage. So next spring hopefully that will get sorted.
As all air bags are now out I forgot I actually have no horn now :grin: So I will have to wire in a button soon for that.
Max'ed out front camber (somewhere around -2.3/-2.5 degrees) and 0.5 degree less camber with 1mm toe out on front and 2mm toe out on rear. Looking forward to testing at Castle Combe sometime soon.
Checked cam follower today, I do check it every it about twice a year or so as it doesn't take long once you've worked out how to do it quickly. Still like no wear at all, they do last much longer than a lot people say for sure
(https://i.postimg.cc/FsZ54FJg/20230604-112308.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F77nb4p7)
Stripped out some wiring from the fog lights too being as they are no longer on the car anyway so may as well cut out
(https://i.postimg.cc/2y0w0tVv/20230604-131041.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FkJ3RDbs)
Hard to get a good picture but here are some snaps of the rear end fully powdercoated:
(https://i.postimg.cc/0QWMF108/20230604-114900.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CB8xnt2t)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MZLfYxG5/20230604-114903.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w3hB6CLR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2y1bf90n/20230604-114908.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8fVPR4QC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pdvFnZdt/20230604-114922.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/FYPRM0cP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nzc93h7R/20230604-114932.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wtZBvHwL)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BbR8Z5zk/20230604-135109.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wRcx0NgQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/65G2jS2X/20230604-135406.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dLwVD5jH)
(https://i.postimg.cc/htWJHrT7/20230604-135409.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qzwMK2mk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nVNYhqqn/20230604-135045.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXcy2G2P)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fk4LQzth/20230604-135049.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GTQrk1xM)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1R8rSvnW/20230604-135102.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/grPZqqKR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/t4Nhkfwg/20230604-112322.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jDCwd8sV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/N0GRzDvk/20230604-135058.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/75cCCg65)
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 12, 2023, 10:24:25 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/WpWhTqQD/20230612-174415.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/F1S9xzFm)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rpNwbD1w/20230612-174838.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBVDKxY2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pdHdqfnS/20230612-174842.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bZm8v2g0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/L8fXtChf/20230612-174850.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Xrj43gf7)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zBDG1q7S/20230612-174917.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qtYTsV9z)
Attached some brake ducting, got it as close to the centre of the disc as I could with some beefy cable ties trying to angle it, it fouls the duct on full lock but only slightly so not too worried.
(https://i.postimg.cc/fRjCbhmg/20230607-181934.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/18XwW2Wp)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HkC3HLcy/20230607-181936.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dL4Gjw9s)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XJhqKTKf/20230607-181954.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xJv9np48)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FF8DWphG/20230607-182002.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7b13bgGT)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8Pvwqv5G/20230607-182010.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Yhp1FhYD)
I road tested this, with one side with the duct taped up and one side open. No difference though in temps. The disc was about 230 degrees and the caliper about 95 degrees, I usually see double this on circuit so it may not be totally useless yet. I'll have to test this at Combe soon to be 100%, if it still does shows no progress then I will probably get the MQB ducts and modify them to fit the mk5 and leave it at that... https://www.akstuning.co.uk/shop/home/425-genuine-audi-rs3-8v-brake-ducts-retro-fit-for-other-mqb-vehicles.html
Its still only a 2.25 inch duct, 3-4 inch is well written about as the ideal size of a brake duct if required but its hard to find clearance, it can be done though with some strategic modification with a hammer on heat gun I'm certain of it.
I was at Combe just yesterday to watch the racing. Nick Vaughn's Audi A3 was there and is seriously impressive in person. But the Production Gti championship was there too which I was eager to see. Talking about brakes, they use an R32 caliper, but none of the cars I saw were running any brake ducting at all interestingly, they weigh about 1300kg too so not light either. So its very possibly running the golf r caliper with semi-slicks and MQB ducts at the most is more than enough if a similar setup works for those cars and considering Combe is a very tough circuit on brakes too.
So aiming to visit Combe at 7th or 21st July and do some testing, mainly monitoring various engine temps, brake temps and finding the correct hot tyre pressures. My assumption is somewhere between 34 and 30 psi hot.
Post by: pudding on June 16, 2023, 08:28:28 pm
Yeah agreed, surprising as I always thought of ECS as the king of VAG tuning and that it was a shame they're only US based with a small amount of their stock making it over here but it is quite dissapointing really.
haha never considered doing that actually, I will try my best to refrain from that approach :grin:
Well AC is staying for now... there was some confusion when it was booked and time restraints meant they're going to leave it for now, not that bothered as the bill is large enough already so :grin: I might have a crack myself later in the year, just thought if I had to have it de-gassed they must as well do the whole thing. The idea of a blower and some ducting have entered my mind as replacement like this one https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/demon-tweeks-in-line-blower-fans-242248/ so swapping a heavy front end 10kg unit that hurts temps and replacing with a 4 inch electric blower aimed directly at the driver, logistics of that is for another time however.
I still have not picked it up yet as I've been busy but its sat waiting currently for next weekend for me. Hopefully they made a note of total weight as I forgot to ask the other day over the phone.
Josh who set it up last time and who I ran into at Pembrey last year mentioned they cannot adjust the seat as it will hurt the integrity of the seat base so they've left it for now and advised to find some universal side mounts that will have far more extreme options in terms of height available. All air bags are now gone though, they mentioned they can leave the steering wheel one in but it would never go off as the front air bags work off the oem seat belt which is now gone so may as well ditch. I know what you're saying about air bags :grin: but with a helmet no air bags is supposedly safer anyway and the amount of road miles will be very small until the car is caged with a harness anyway.
They've put the idea in my head of taking it racing, hillclimbs/sprints will definitely be on the cards for next year but they were mentioning they got have some good links in a few close to home series and can assist in getting to that point... would love to but budget is not there just yet, maybe in a couple of years. It will definitely be going in for a welded up roll cage however next year to meet regs for sprinting and they did mention they can ditch the oem seat mounts and weld in a new base thats custom fit for me so I can try and get it as far back and low as possible that is still drive-able for me and without having to re-engineer the entire pedal and steering wheel position.
I need to stop faffing about with my trying to find extra performance here and there and just focus on getting it to meet regulations, even if its slow in its class at least it is eligibile and being used rather than a fast car that sits on a private piece of land year in year out :grin:
So the focus right now and over the next 12 months will be only very cheap and free mods asside from repairs and maintenance to raise those funds which will be things like:
Build up better brake ducting
Remove any weight possible without cost that allows it to remain road legal
Any cheap/easy/free mods to allow better cooling (that actually work!)
Relocate battery
refurb 2nd set of wheels
try again to convert to solid top mounts and linear springs
Anything else is just not needed right now so I need to pull my finger out :grin:
Bit boring to have no pics I know but I have been reading and watching a lot of Julian Edgar recently on aerodynamics and would highly recommend to anyone, its made me realise just HOW MUCH can be improved on the golf and how many quite mainstream mods out there are probably hurting drag, IAT's, cooling and lift. He shows just how easy you can test this stuff yourself with about 50 quids worth of equipment, its pretty cool.
ECS are great, I just wish we had companies like them, Shop DAP and FCP Euro in the UK. I've used ECS several times over the years and they're always easy and quick. They've been good for my Bimmer as well in getting stuff that just isn't available in Europe :happy2: The Americans have special tools and fixes for just about everything :grin: Think I might move there :grin:
Anyway, yeah I'm not a big fan of silicon hoses, no surprises there :grin: They do the job but they're nowhere near as hardy as the stock hoses. I've always viewed them more as engine dressing than anything else :grin: But we try these things and move on to the next thing, so no dramas, it's all good experience :happy2:
Dumping the A/C was on my todo list as it's crap anyway, even when working properly, and you can feel at idle the engine doesn't like the extra load of it. It's easy to remove, get a non-AC drive belt from AKS tuning and you're golden :happy2: It also frees up more air flow to the intercooler :happy2:
I think you just need to put a load resistor on the pump connector and low and high side pressure sensors to stop the HVAC module moaning.
I'm not sure that 4" fan would do a whole lot if you've got a helmet on tbh. Probably better than nothing though :happy2:
Hillclimbs and sprints look like fun. You would probably benefit from a Wavetrac diff to help accelerate you out of the more technical corners, especially the very tight uphill ones. It's a good circuit for dialling suspension as the car has to change direction much more quickly than a bigger track, which should help on regular track days :happy2:
Definitely move the battery to the boot if you can be bothered. The arse end could do with more weight over it. You could use an R32 size rear silencer and fit the oem R32 battery cubby hole panel? It sits the battery nice and low, which has centre of gravity benefits. You can also grab an R32 battery harness from a scrappy and wire it all in as per oem, which will prevent any weird electrical fault codes :happy2:
So yeah, weight reduction, and also weight redistribution rearwards is the order of the day :happy2:
Post by: pudding on June 16, 2023, 08:46:14 pm
Aero plays a massive part. Ever noticed how MK5s feel a bit sketchy and vague well past 100? Lowering and stiffening helps, and also removing the stock rake, but they're just not that great aerodynamically. Too much underbody lift. Maybe underbody some aero parts from the A3 might help? All those plastic winglet things on the wishbones and full underbelly covers front and rear. The front end air flow is a big factor also as you say, hence why the race cars angle the radiator stack at 45 degrees or more and airflow passthrough the bonnet instead of allowing it flow through into the engine bay, which is massive drag :happy2:
All those wings, splitters and louvred wings we laugh at on road cars, yeah, those things really help on race/track cars :happy2: Have you seen that crazy MK2 16v Turbo on Misha Charoudin's YouTube channel? That thing was covered in DIY bodgey looking aero, but it was fast as fook round the ring because of it!
Powder coating looks great. Yeah the HPFP followers don't wear out if you keep on top of oil the maintenance, and it's generally only those stupidly stiff HPFPs from Loba and APR that chew though followers. That's why I liked the VIS internals as it uses the stock spring :happy2:
What I would also say is focus on yourself as a driver as well as preparing the car. You probably won't remember Maurice Reeves. He was famous for blasting round Castle Coombe in his pretty simple MK2 track car, which beat dozens of much more powerful and sophisticated cars. It was purely down to driver skill and the right mods :happy2:
Post by: GVK on June 16, 2023, 10:43:34 pm
The mk2 on You tube with the aero is owned by a mate of mine Nigel Pinder, really nice guy would help anyone.
He can lap the 'ring at Porsche GT3 pace low 7.3x mins. Thats quick in anyones book.
www.youtube.com search pinderwagen
https://pinderwagen.com/
(https://i.postimg.cc/vTjqxNHX/pinder.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FHx6DGPF/pindeer2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Post by: Marticus on June 17, 2023, 01:56:32 pm
I would love to see the reactions of the supercar owners as they get passed by a 30 year old golf, this kind of build is far more interesting to me that the porsche stuff hes been putting out recently.
Post by: GVK on June 17, 2023, 09:33:15 pm
I went round Cadwell Park as a passenger a few years back and it was amazing.
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 20, 2023, 08:32:28 am
Some interesting reading there! I remember AmD very well from back in the day (90s, early 2000s), when it was Geoff Everett (who sadly passed away) and a couple of other guys. They were the VAG engine mapping & tuning pioneers, and also race car setup :happy2: They are not to be confused with the current 'AmD Essex' or 'AmD Tuning' who are nothing like what AmD used to be. I'm not sure how many times they've changed hands, but in the 2010 era, they weren't particularly good.
Aero plays a massive part. Ever noticed how MK5s feel a bit sketchy and vague well past 100? Lowering and stiffening helps, and also removing the stock rake, but they're just not that great aerodynamically. Too much underbody lift. Maybe underbody some aero parts from the A3 might help? All those plastic winglet things on the wishbones and full underbelly covers front and rear. The front end air flow is a big factor also as you say, hence why the race cars angle the radiator stack at 45 degrees or more and airflow passthrough the bonnet instead of allowing it flow through into the engine bay, which is massive drag :happy2:
All those wings, splitters and louvred wings we laugh at on road cars, yeah, those things really help on race/track cars :happy2: Have you seen that crazy MK2 16v Turbo on Misha Charoudin's YouTube channel? That thing was covered in DIY bodgey looking aero, but it was fast as fook round the ring because of it!
Powder coating looks great. Yeah the HPFP followers don't wear out if you keep on top of oil the maintenance, and it's generally only those stupidly stiff HPFPs from Loba and APR that chew though followers. That's why I liked the VIS internals as it uses the stock spring :happy2:
What I would also say is focus on yourself as a driver as well as preparing the car. You probably won't remember Maurice Reeves. He was famous for blasting round Castle Coombe in his pretty simple MK2 track car, whac ich beat dozens of much more powerful and sophisticated cars. It was purely down to driver skill and the right mods :happy2:
How is the bimmer going then? still taking it apart all the time like the ed30? Miss it at all?
Its the process of de-gassing the air con put me off doing it myself originally, but I may have another go.
A wavetrac diff is high up on my want list for sure, I think it will find easily a couple seconds per lap in its current form.
Interesting about the r32 battery setup, never thought to do it that way but you're right its all available used.
I didn't know that avout AmD, assumed it was the same firm they just abandoned that motorsport side of things.
Yeah I've found the rear feeling light and unpredictable in high speed turns occasionally, I've blamed it on other things in the past but it could be rear lift as the rear is super draggy. Yeah those "winglets" and bits and bobs would be interesting, I would like to see if I can construct a flat floor out of cardboard for the rear first of all and attach seecurely with full suspension movement, if so I can make a very thing aluminium one or just go with the off the shelf stuff which must do something. Yeah I would love a tcr style intercool/rad ducted to a bonnet vent, should be a massive difference in cooling.
Yeah I mean, when you see the tcr cars with aero or any club racing car with huge budgets (like Darkside and Area motorsport) they look great but anything home made half the time looks sh*t :grin: but cannot deny it works. Yes I know very well that mk2 you're talking about.
Yeah you're absolutely right on the driving, but something I'm on top of. I've done a bit of karting with some success in the past and I've probably put in about 6 or so hours per week on my sim setup for the past 3 years, I race with a league now which is made up of enthusiasts/couple of club racers and 1 or 2 pro drivers which has seen the biggest improvement for my driving by far as you push to find tiny amounts of time you wouldn't look for if you're just practicing on your own. I'm also a Ross Bentley super fan, the blokes a spewing enclyopedia of what is usually unavailable information on driving and racing.
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 20, 2023, 08:36:46 am
Post by: bobby_fodge on June 20, 2023, 12:21:00 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 20, 2023, 08:49:42 pm
I have an r32 battery box and battery cables if you need one. I was going to move mine to the boot but didn't in the end.
Thanks, I may take you up on that, I'll let you know!
Post by: Clarkj93 on June 20, 2023, 10:11:49 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/sDkMXjNv/20230615-102718.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/VdFfZ818)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0y7bKTTZ/20230615-154056.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RWVMjDVn)
Oil and brake fluid flush done. Anyone else detest bleeding/flushing brakes? Worst job in my opinion.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Wp06jy3m/20230615-164736.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V5LbWDX5)
MQB ducts delivered from AKS tuning, I was never going to pay nearly 100 quid for the TT 8J ones.
(https://i.postimg.cc/13pg647n/20230620-092028.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFdxZN3h)
Not seen anyone fit these to anything other than a MQB platform cars and the new yaris gr but looking at the design, they ought to fit any mcphearson strut car. For mine which has the 8J tt arms I had to trim two of the tabs to fit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/d3YQJ9v5/20230620-102255.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CBcpNkR8)
Here is the finished product
(https://i.postimg.cc/Y0WFsRR8/20230620-095713.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QKjVBpRW)
The idea is airflow is directed to it via this existing duct in the arch liner
(https://i.postimg.cc/Mp8byNw9/20230620-095744.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tY2xbrY6)
I have the mk7 R calipers which just slightly touches the edge of it on full lock but its so slight it wouldn't be an issue, I don't think the standard caliper or anything 4 or 6 pot would get as close to it though, think this caliper is just a bit more intrusive than others. I run a 24mm whiteline arb with whiteline adjustable drop links, and to change my arb stiffness I do have to manoeuvre the drop link and the duct a bit as its extremely tight. I don't think they're going to have a fight on the road but if they do the drop link is obviously going to win and replacing a single £20 duct is no big deal if that does happen, but looks just about ok for now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/0yRCqfkK/20230620-094625.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xc5mvLb9)
I re-worked the existing 2.25 inch brake duct too, I wasn't happy with it so decided to just implement a very basic solution which it is tied solely to the wishbone and does not move with steering input. Its far more maintainable this way and less likely to cause an issue like interfere with the driveshafts boots. I will be trialing if this duct makes any difference on circuit soon. I already know that the rs3 duct is proven so no real reason to test.
(https://i.postimg.cc/HnVWkXtf/20230620-122617.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/p5MM094Z)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9fYQ8WMN/20230620-122624.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/94z2zHyG)
Lastly, my arb droplinks have always come undone after installing the whiteline arb, never realised why but I think I've worked out its because they rub on the arch liner and get un-done. So I've cut space for them so no rubbing should happen plus it makes adjusting the arb a little easier.
(https://i.postimg.cc/j5kKmCrv/20230620-123750.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/vg9p6YT6)
I'm booked on at Combe for 7th July now, where I'll be trying to find the right tyre pressure range (probably about 30 hot but I'm aiming to try multiple high and low pressures and test the outcome), also I'll be doing various tests on the brake setup as I've already mentioned to monitor temps and how/If I can manipulate this as well as logging various fluid temps throughout the day. Combe is very hard on heat management so it will be a good test.
Post by: pudding on July 07, 2023, 10:23:18 pm
"All those wings, splitters and louvred wings we laugh at on road cars, yeah, those things really help on race/track cars :happy2: Have you seen that crazy MK2 16v Turbo on Misha Charoudin's YouTube channel? That thing was covered in DIY bodgey looking aero, but it was fast as fook round the ring because of it!"
The mk2 on You tube with the aero is owned by a mate of mine Nigel Pinder, really nice guy would help anyone.
He can lap the 'ring at Porsche GT3 pace low 7.3x mins. Thats quick in anyones book.
www.youtube.com search pinderwagen
https://pinderwagen.com/
(https://i.postimg.cc/vTjqxNHX/pinder.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FHx6DGPF/pindeer2.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Yeah that's him! That car was quick. I say 'was' because he binned it recently iirc? Not catastrophic though. He'll be back. He seemed like a decent and knowledagble chap on Misha's video :happy2:
I just find it amazing that such an old car can still cut it with the current breed of fast cars if mods are applied in the right way. MK2s always were pocket rockets though.
Speaking of Misha, I had to laugh the other day when he blew up that guy's Volvo 240 engine :grin: Not his fault, just an old unprepared car, but that is exactly why I would never take a road car on the ring, not one I care about at least :grin:
Post by: GVK on July 07, 2023, 10:26:24 pm
500bhp in a mk2 Golf is going to be quick but just look how a GT4RS pulls away!
Post by: pudding on July 07, 2023, 10:27:23 pm
I was watching misha’s vids about that golf recently, its an inspirational car for sure, and goes like anything.
I would love to see the reactions of the supercar owners as they get passed by a 30 year old golf, this kind of build is far more interesting to me that the porsche stuff hes been putting out recently.
I think Misha could pass some decent cars in a Citroen 2CV :grin: The man probably has 1000s of hours track experience, which on that track in particular, makes all the difference :smiley: I watch a lot of the tourist day crash videos as some of the newbie planks you get on the track are hilarious. Too much hubris!
Post by: pudding on July 07, 2023, 10:28:41 pm
Yeah, he did stack it at the 'ring a couple of months ago but it's all back up and running, he was there for the 'ring meisters track days this week.
Excellent, glad to hear it and look forward to seeing him tear up the track again :happy2:
Post by: GVK on July 07, 2023, 10:35:35 pm
Post by: pudding on July 07, 2023, 11:38:37 pm
Some interesting reading there! I remember AmD very well from back in the day (90s, early 2000s), when it was Geoff Everett (who sadly passed away) and a couple of other guys. They were the VAG engine mapping & tuning pioneers, and also race car setup :happy2: They are not to be confused with the current 'AmD Essex' or 'AmD Tuning' who are nothing like what AmD used to be. I'm not sure how many times they've changed hands, but in the 2010 era, they weren't particularly good.
Aero plays a massive part. Ever noticed how MK5s feel a bit sketchy and vague well past 100? Lowering and stiffening helps, and also removing the stock rake, but they're just not that great aerodynamically. Too much underbody lift. Maybe underbody some aero parts from the A3 might help? All those plastic winglet things on the wishbones and full underbelly covers front and rear. The front end air flow is a big factor also as you say, hence why the race cars angle the radiator stack at 45 degrees or more and airflow passthrough the bonnet instead of allowing it flow through into the engine bay, which is massive drag :happy2:
All those wings, splitters and louvred wings we laugh at on road cars, yeah, those things really help on race/track cars :happy2: Have you seen that crazy MK2 16v Turbo on Misha Charoudin's YouTube channel? That thing was covered in DIY bodgey looking aero, but it was fast as fook round the ring because of it!
Powder coating looks great. Yeah the HPFP followers don't wear out if you keep on top of oil the maintenance, and it's generally only those stupidly stiff HPFPs from Loba and APR that chew though followers. That's why I liked the VIS internals as it uses the stock spring :happy2:
What I would also say is focus on yourself as a driver as well as preparing the car. You probably won't remember Maurice Reeves. He was famous for blasting round Castle Coombe in his pretty simple MK2 track car, whac ich beat dozens of much more powerful and sophisticated cars. It was purely down to driver skill and the right mods :happy2:
How is the bimmer going then? still taking it apart all the time like the ed30? Miss it at all?
Its the process of de-gassing the air con put me off doing it myself originally, but I may have another go.
A wavetrac diff is high up on my want list for sure, I think it will find easily a couple seconds per lap in its current form.
Interesting about the r32 battery setup, never thought to do it that way but you're right its all available used.
I didn't know that avout AmD, assumed it was the same firm they just abandoned that motorsport side of things.
Yeah I've found the rear feeling light and unpredictable in high speed turns occasionally, I've blamed it on other things in the past but it could be rear lift as the rear is super draggy. Yeah those "winglets" and bits and bobs would be interesting, I would like to see if I can construct a flat floor out of cardboard for the rear first of all and attach seecurely with full suspension movement, if so I can make a very thing aluminium one or just go with the off the shelf stuff which must do something. Yeah I would love a tcr style intercool/rad ducted to a bonnet vent, should be a massive difference in cooling.
Yeah I mean, when you see the tcr cars with aero or any club racing car with huge budgets (like Darkside and Area motorsport) they look great but anything home made half the time looks sh*t :grin: but cannot deny it works. Yes I know very well that mk2 you're talking about.
Yeah you're absolutely right on the driving, but something I'm on top of. I've done a bit of karting with some success in the past and I've probably put in about 6 or so hours per week on my sim setup for the past 3 years, I race with a league now which is made up of enthusiasts/couple of club racers and 1 or 2 pro drivers which has seen the biggest improvement for my driving by far as you push to find tiny amounts of time you wouldn't look for if you're just practicing on your own. I'm also a Ross Bentley super fan, the blokes a spewing enclyopedia of what is usually unavailable information on driving and racing.
Apart from it getting covered in seagull sh1t every other day (I work by the coast) yeah it's OK :grin: The dirty b@stards even shat on the door handle :grin: I can't really do much to it as it's still in warranty, so no remaps, coilovers, M3 chassis parts or any of that goodness until it hits 100K, boooooo!
It does get the same ridiculous 3K oil change treatment as the ED30 though :grin:
Yeah I do miss the ED30's handling and performance. I've always felt MK5s are greater than the sum of their parts. They're so fluid through the twisties and punchy. But for now I need a cruise wagon to eat up the 400 mile a week commute. 50mpg and a smooth auto is more palatable than the ED30's mid 20s and heavy Helix clutch :grin:
Is it an environmental responsibility thing that puts you off degassing the AC? I must confess, I just dumped it out to atmosphere on an older car in my more reckless days :doh: :grin:
Yeah the wavetrac will definitely help. Even on public roads, the unloaded wheel used to spin like crazy on roundabouts, in the dry, and not even going at it that hard tbh. It was on my to-do list. The MK6 XDS ABS upgrade was also up there on my must have mods as it works up to 65mph iirc. The MK5s much weaker TC only works up to 30mph iirc. That in combination with the wavetrac would be great!
Yeah the only issue with R32 battery cubby hole is the GTI exhaust gets in the way, which is why R32s have a much shorter rear silencer, but it's doable with a different silencer. It's a better solution than just bunging it in the boot with a generic bracket as the R32 sits the battery really low for good centre of gravity.
Yeah that was also my complaint about the rear end. It felt too vague and floaty at speed. I think some of it is due to a lack of weight back there. The car always handled better with a full tank versus 1/4 full. The Eibach arbs definitely helped with that though, and also getting the spring/damper rates dialled in, which is the tricky bit!
Good stuff :happy2: Even simple things like supportive seats and seating position can help. I tend to slouch in the seat too much, which is really bad for car control. If I sit more upright and pull the wheel closer to my chest, it makes a massive difference. I don't know if you've seen any Chris Harris videos. Kind of like that really. He sits super low, but has the steering wheel as far out as it will go, like he's almost hugging it :grin:
You got the MQB wishbone cover deflectory things then :happy2: Castle Combe is a decent track. You'll have fun there :happy2:
Post by: pudding on July 07, 2023, 11:51:23 pm
Yeah, he did stack it at the 'ring a couple of months ago but it's all back up and running, he was there for the 'ring meisters track days this week.
500bhp in a mk2 Golf is going to be quick but just look how a GT4RS pulls away!
Yeah the Pinderwagen runs out of gearing. He never loses sight of it though, so kudos to him and his car :happy2: I bet the GT4 driver was thinking what the hell is that old thing keeping up with me in the more technical corners :grin: Well driven Porsches are something else though. Ballistic!
Post by: Clarkj93 on July 08, 2023, 09:06:15 am
Some interesting reading there! I remember AmD very well from back in the day (90s, early 2000s), when it was Geoff Everett (who sadly passed away) and a couple of other guys. They were the VAG engine mapping & tuning pioneers, and also race car setup :happy2: They are not to be confused with the current 'AmD Essex' or 'AmD Tuning' who are nothing like what AmD used to be. I'm not sure how many times they've changed hands, but in the 2010 era, they weren't particularly good.
Aero plays a massive part. Ever noticed how MK5s feel a bit sketchy and vague well past 100? Lowering and stiffening helps, and also removing the stock rake, but they're just not that great aerodynamically. Too much underbody lift. Maybe underbody some aero parts from the A3 might help? All those plastic winglet things on the wishbones and full underbelly covers front and rear. The front end air flow is a big factor also as you say, hence why the race cars angle the radiator stack at 45 degrees or more and airflow passthrough the bonnet instead of allowing it flow through into the engine bay, which is massive drag :happy2:
All those wings, splitters and louvred wings we laugh at on road cars, yeah, those things really help on race/track cars :happy2: Have you seen that crazy MK2 16v Turbo on Misha Charoudin's YouTube channel? That thing was covered in DIY bodgey looking aero, but it was fast as fook round the ring because of it!
Powder coating looks great. Yeah the HPFP followers don't wear out if you keep on top of oil the maintenance, and it's generally only those stupidly stiff HPFPs from Loba and APR that chew though followers. That's why I liked the VIS internals as it uses the stock spring :happy2:
What I would also say is focus on yourself as a driver as well as preparing the car. You probably won't remember Maurice Reeves. He was famous for blasting round Castle Coombe in his pretty simple MK2 track car, whac ich beat dozens of much more powerful and sophisticated cars. It was purely down to driver skill and the right mods :happy2:
How is the bimmer going then? still taking it apart all the time like the ed30? Miss it at all?
Its the process of de-gassing the air con put me off doing it myself originally, but I may have another go.
A wavetrac diff is high up on my want list for sure, I think it will find easily a couple seconds per lap in its current form.
Interesting about the r32 battery setup, never thought to do it that way but you're right its all available used.
I didn't know that avout AmD, assumed it was the same firm they just abandoned that motorsport side of things.
Yeah I've found the rear feeling light and unpredictable in high speed turns occasionally, I've blamed it on other things in the past but it could be rear lift as the rear is super draggy. Yeah those "winglets" and bits and bobs would be interesting, I would like to see if I can construct a flat floor out of cardboard for the rear first of all and attach seecurely with full suspension movement, if so I can make a very thing aluminium one or just go with the off the shelf stuff which must do something. Yeah I would love a tcr style intercool/rad ducted to a bonnet vent, should be a massive difference in cooling.
Yeah I mean, when you see the tcr cars with aero or any club racing car with huge budgets (like Darkside and Area motorsport) they look great but anything home made half the time looks sh*t :grin: but cannot deny it works. Yes I know very well that mk2 you're talking about.
Yeah you're absolutely right on the driving, but something I'm on top of. I've done a bit of karting with some success in the past and I've probably put in about 6 or so hours per week on my sim setup for the past 3 years, I race with a league now which is made up of enthusiasts/couple of club racers and 1 or 2 pro drivers which has seen the biggest improvement for my driving by far as you push to find tiny amounts of time you wouldn't look for if you're just practicing on your own. I'm also a Ross Bentley super fan, the blokes a spewing enclyopedia of what is usually unavailable information on driving and racing.
Apart from it getting covered in seagull sh1t every other day (I work by the coast) yeah it's OK :grin: The dirty b@stards even shat on the door handle :grin: I can't really do much to it as it's still in warranty, so no remaps, coilovers, M3 chassis parts or any of that goodness until it hits 100K, boooooo!
It does get the same ridiculous 3K oil change treatment as the ED30 though :grin:
Yeah I do miss the ED30's handling and performance. I've always felt MK5s are greater than the sum of their parts. They're so fluid through the twisties and punchy. But for now I need a cruise wagon to eat up the 400 mile a week commute. 50mpg and a smooth auto is more palatable than the ED30's mid 20s and heavy Helix clutch :grin:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52979510624_dbf767170f_k.jpg)
Is it an environmental responsibility thing that puts you off degassing the AC? I must confess, I just dumped it out to atmosphere on an older car in my more reckless days :doh: :grin:
Yeah the wavetrac will definitely help. Even on public roads, the unloaded wheel used to spin like crazy on roundabouts, in the dry, and not even going at it that hard tbh. It was on my to-do list. The MK6 XDS ABS upgrade was also up there on my must have mods as it works up to 65mph iirc. The MK5s much weaker TC only works up to 30mph iirc. That in combination with the wavetrac would be great!
Yeah the only issue with R32 battery cubby hole is the GTI exhaust gets in the way, which is why R32s have a much shorter rear silencer, but it's doable with a different silencer. It's a better solution than just bunging it in the boot with a generic bracket as the R32 sits the battery really low for good centre of gravity.
Yeah that was also my complaint about the rear end. It felt too vague and floaty at speed. I think some of it is due to a lack of weight back there. The car always handled better with a full tank versus 1/4 full. The Eibach arbs definitely helped with that though, and also getting the spring/damper rates dialled in, which is the tricky bit!
Good stuff :happy2: Even simple things like supportive seats and seating position can help. I tend to slouch in the seat too much, which is really bad for car control. If I sit more upright and pull the wheel closer to my chest, it makes a massive difference. I don't know if you've seen any Chris Harris videos. Kind of like that really. He sits super low, but has the steering wheel as far out as it will go, like he's almost hugging it :grin:
You got the MQB wishbone cover deflectory things then :happy2: Castle Combe is a decent track. You'll have fun there :happy2:
Wow that is something :grin:
yeah I do think the mk5 chassis is great, there is a reason you see so many mk5 platform cars doing well in club racing, MQB platforms being even more successful probably having a slightly better chassis I would guess tied in with the EA888, seems like its so easy to squeeze big power out of them!
ah well I pretend to have an environment responsibility when in the office I would say but really I don't care :grin: I just thought if I dumped it on my drive it would be dramatic e.g make a big bang, lots of smoke and you never know how clocked on that nosy neighbour is across the street... if its a silent unnoticeable process then too right I'll be doing it that way!
only up to 30mph? just there to help teenagers launch at the lights is it :grin:?
yeah will do a post on it soon but for sure you can notice lift on rear at higher speed, as rotating the car at high speed is super easy but low speed the rear feels too planted so negating the lift with a stiffer/more aggressive rear end.
Post by: Clarkj93 on July 08, 2023, 09:53:46 am
(https://i.postimg.cc/JzCm7fzB/20230707-111928.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Tp0BCHmR)
(https://i.postimg.cc/dQXwpkM6/20230707-115253.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s1pkZ2gG)
Tested out various tyre pressures:
33 - grip very spikey
32 - good grip but times when it did feel spikey e.g low speed or making a small mistake and it reacts dramatically
31/31.5 - good grip, quite balanced
30 - felt great, didn't feel super quicker than 31/32 but balance was way more neutral and tyres felt like they could last longer before going off
So 30 sounds like ideal on AR-1's and probably any 100-200 treadwear tyres.. which is what retro resus told me before but thought I'd find out for myself.
I've come across the idea of "scale factor" in terms of tyre pressures, its a way to set hot and cold pressures to get the exact correct pressures every time. So after reliably getting 30 hot, I'll take a cold reading with the tyres in the shade after they have completely cooled, then divide hot by cold and you get a scale factor, you record the scale factor along with the ambient temperature so it means next time you turn up to the same circuit you can see the scale factor and get it right first time, second time worst case rather than having to keep an eye on it constantly. Each ambient 1 degree is worth 0.1 psi so the scale factors I took were:
@27.5 degrees ambient
FL = 1.33 (22.5)
FR = 1.27 (23.5)
RL = 1.2 (25)
RR = 1.11 (27)
So next time I'm there if the ambient temp is say 20 degrees ambient i would set cold to:
FL = 1.33 (23.2 ~24)
FR = 1.27 (24.2 ~ 24)
RL = 1.2 (25.7 ~25.5)
RR = 1.11 (27.7 ~27.5)
Nice to have that recorded, I do think tyres are something overlooked a lot of the time, they're very delicate things and definitely need some thought to get them working well.
The front ARB was on full soft and the front was washing out quite a lot and rolling more than I'd like.. going from full soft to full hard added quite a lot of front grip and stability too. There is some "man maths" logic out there that you should only get a stiffer rear arb and keep an oem/super soft or no front arb but this isn't true at all, if the car rolls a little too much on front then stiffening the front should add more front grip not take away.
(https://i.postimg.cc/25ZCzC4v/20230707-130242.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/d7wb6PNt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/YCVpKvmM/20230707-130251.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/cvRqf4mb)
Recorded temps a couple of times, not every time but if these are not the highest settings then I imagine they are very close to these:
Intake temp: 60 on idle, 38-40 when running
Coolant: 99
Oil: 122
Brake caliper - 195
So Oil and coolant within my target but close to borderline, not giving much more wiggle room, also only running on map 2 ~220bhp all day which may see lower temps. I'm not overly worried as that big ugly AC condenser is surely blocking some clean airflow to the rad and intercooler. Worst case I can always add some bonnet vents to get some hot air out, I do like the middle tcr vents but I think you need some exhaust venting from the IC and rad to get the most out of this and that requires some very clever fab work so.... maybe I will 1 day maybe I won't.
Brakes held up though! Lack of weight, bigger caliper/pads/discs along with some better air flow has paid off, though the golf r calipers do not modulate well I got to say. What I mean is if a braking zone is downhill, and you unbalance the car by going 100% so you want to apply only 80% of the brakes to keep the car balanced then it does not feel like you have 80% of braking power, it feels about 50%! It is manageable but not ideal, not sure its worth the weight saving over the r32 setup because of that modulation issue. It also does not like much trail braking at the mo, probably because right now its super nose heavy having an empty rear.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vZDQNrT0/20230707-130255.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w188tshN)
For anyone who's never been to Combe, a great part of it is its probably the nicest part of england being on the edge of the cotswolds, so 3 minutes down the road you have beautiful scenic gastro pubs. Even my Mrs likes coming here because of that factor :grin: Its a great excuse for weekend away.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Mpw4FRDh/20230707-180241.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D8CBWSRg)
Just to sum up, the car was rapid all day, obviously driver experience plays an enormous part but still going to take the pride in it seemingly being one of the quicker cars lapping all day. Really makes me want to get it running on map 5(273bhp) with a wavetrac diff and more camber, it should fly.
Post by: Clarkj93 on July 12, 2023, 10:18:22 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/JnD2y80v/20230712-202519.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ygKP5wFy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gJCB876J/20230712-202531.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2GrpDdF)
Easy to install just needs some big strong cable ties and its solid. No real need for 3d printed solutions if you don't mind a very much not oem finish to it.
Throttle body has been playing up again lately, every now and then the car will cut out when its first started or start to idle really really rough if left to idle for too long. Did a bit of research recently and as far as I can tell the mk7 Golf R throttle body is just a later revision that is interchangeable, the Q revision is the one I've got on now from a 2012 TT. From what I can tell, the T revision seems to be a reliable unit unlike the ones fitted to the mk5 platform cars that seem to die often at the age they are now so I snagged one from a 2016 golf r for 30 odd quid, worth a punt I thought, not fitted yet but I'm certain it will be a like-for-like replacement.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QtYKzLq8/20230627-171138.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wyJBtGPZ)
Started messing around with linear springs again! Lots of sanding down and odd adaptors and I'm close to working out how it will fit while getting the ideal ride heights. As well as the obvious benefits, there is also quite a significant unsprung weight saving, roughly 3-4kg total saving which is about 0.8kg - 1.05kg unsprung weight saving on each front corner and about 0.6kg - 0.85kg on each rear corner. I'm going to mount 450lb/in (8kg/mm) all around and check how the dampers feel with some road testing and go from there.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5NtjWstH/20230712-201916.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s1t3p97y)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fTgyzY38/20230712-201925.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xcMngJ3m)
Here is something cool I came across the other day, reversing adjustable top mounts left-to-right and vice versa to increase castor.
(https://i.postimg.cc/zfbffLwr/20230706-074358.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8FGGKznK)
I've got the compbrake solid top mounts in the shed so did some quick calculations, the compbrake top mounts have 30 holes to mount them and can be mounted in any orientation so there is quite a lot of freedom. So mounting them so the adjustment goes forward-to-backwards allows for 0 extra camber, but the top of the shock can be mounted up to 18mm further back which should be quite a substantial increase of castor. A good compromise would be to mount them somewhere in between which will still allow for half the total amount of camber possible along with pushing the shock a further 9mm backwards which should still be a decent castor improvement. For now I'm just going to mount them normally so no castor increase to ascertain initially how much camber I can achieve and then I can add additional castor this way if I'm not maxed out on the camber adjustment of the top mount. Camber I'm aiming for is roughly -3.5 degrees.
To top it off, here are some cool snaps at Combe the other day
(https://i.postimg.cc/vBJR2HDL/CCTD-0423-ZF-10307-59247-1-001-001.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/zbFPVNCV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/90Z66573/CCTD-1829-ZF-10307-59247-1-001-002.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/V0sZthg4)
Post by: pudding on July 14, 2023, 10:08:41 pm
Wow that is something :grin:
yeah I do think the mk5 chassis is great, there is a reason you see so many mk5 platform cars doing well in club racing, MQB platforms being even more successful probably having a slightly better chassis I would guess tied in with the EA888, seems like its so easy to squeeze big power out of them!
ah well I pretend to have an environment responsibility when in the office I would say but really I don't care :grin: I just thought if I dumped it on my drive it would be dramatic e.g make a big bang, lots of smoke and you never know how clocked on that nosy neighbour is across the street... if its a silent unnoticeable process then too right I'll be doing it that way!
only up to 30mph? just there to help teenagers launch at the lights is it :grin:?
yeah will do a post on it soon but for sure you can notice lift on rear at higher speed, as rotating the car at high speed is super easy but low speed the rear feels too planted so negating the lift with a stiffer/more aggressive rear end.
The MK5 has a decently stiff body shell on it's side :happy2:
Weirdly the MQB platform went back to MK4 Golf front wishbones in a steel subframe, which is considerably cheaper to manufacture than the MK5's alloy subframe and console bush goodness, and not as stiff. It always boils down to the bottom line, but binning off gas struts on the MK8's bonnet is a step too far in that regard :grin:
The MQBs rear end is pretty much identical to the MK5's in terms of basic layout, but they probably messed with the motion ratio, roll centre and ARB rates to get it turn in a bit keener and flatter :happy2: MQBs also have variable ratio steering racks, which makes a huge difference in the tighter turns. They're decent cars but somehow feel dull to drive compared to the 5.
Nah, it just makes a leaking air noise for a short while and it's over. No dramatic bangs or whooshes :grin: Just don't breathe in too deeply around the area :grin:
Yeah its totally lame! I think the kids care more about pops and bangs than traction these days :grin:
It's mega tricky getting the car to behave how you want it to at all speeds, but you'll get there :happy2:
Post by: pudding on July 14, 2023, 10:29:44 pm
Interesting tyre experimenting! Consistency and predictability are the name of the game on track, so it's good to get that dialled in :happy2:
100% right on the ARBs. Just a bigger rear bar on the road gives instant gratification in terms of a sharper turn in at normal speeds, but when you wind the wick up and change direction quickly, the imbalance is soon felt. It feels like a wobbly table, if that makes sense. Feels like you need to put something under the shortest leg :grin: And don't forget, ARBs increase the spring rates in corners, so if the rear is much stiffer, the forces have to go somewhere, which inevitably results in the front end rolling more, which = more understeer.
Yep Golf R throttle bodies bolt right on. I put one on mine. Sling it on and do a basic settings adaption in VCDS and you're good to go :happy2: The earlier VDO throttles were known to be iffy. Weak springs in them so you'd get some boost hang occasionally.
Linear springs are much better than progressives. Way more predictable. Progressives are OK for road cars driven slowly but they're no use on track.
It's good to experiment with castor as that gives you a lot more dynamic camber, so you don't have to go quite so aggressive with the static camber :happy2:
Good stuff dude! Pistonheads should put your car up against the MK8 R :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on July 27, 2023, 10:30:21 pm
Yeah I agree, on what must weigh like probably 1500kg or even more in mk8 R form, did the gas strut really make any difference? I've got no intention of removing mine and I ditched the front wing brackets last week to save 400 grams as they seemed unnecessary :grin:
Hahah, not saying I did this.... but it definitely would work well to put a wood screw half way through the AC valve cap and tighten it until it slowly seeps out and then just walk away and relieve all responsibility :wink:
I did try 450's/8kg springs all around the other day on a quick road test with a very wonky alignment but ride seemed better than previously frankly so I will be taking the punt on getting it setup soon as an intermittent solution to either re-valving or replacing one day which is fine for now, a cage and a diff are way higher up on my last right now.
haha I've been watching that as well and thinking they're doing it wrong :grin:!
Post by: Clarkj93 on July 30, 2023, 06:47:43 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/Px2Kbb8F/20230716-121025.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/S2YWkMdW)
Ac is now out. 10kg off the front end in total.
Lots of debris blocking the IC going on, clearing it out and removing the AC out should see a nice difference in temps
(https://i.postimg.cc/rpyfDYDt/20230716-121017.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DSDrD6d2)
I tried to improve air flow from the fan pack, by reducing blockages so the air can escape easier, this will lower the air pressure behind the rad and the bigger the difference between the pressure in front of the heat exchangers and the rear the more effective the cooling system will be. I could cut more out but I was concerned it would lose all its strength and start to flop about at speed and possibly damage something, most likely the radiator itself.
(https://i.postimg.cc/mgkchYbg/20230717-193314.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ts0RMVZK)
Its quite common to see multiple holes cut out of the front bumper on track and club race cars, I've always been dubious if this does anything. So I thought I'd put it to the test, I've cut a letter box out the bumper.
(https://i.postimg.cc/3Nr8VhNx/20230717-193210.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xJ7VNWLw)
And cut some holes then out of front grille
(https://i.postimg.cc/0NvLcfb8/20230717-193254.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NKNJ0R6V)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fb5g5QGK/20230728-131557.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gwXDkQkX)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2669KXmf/20230728-131612.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8F2bF4jy)
I'll use the number plate to block this up normally, next time at circuit I'll run logs in 2 sessions of multiple temps with and without the number plate to see if it makes any difference at all.
Trimmed the rear bumper, small reduction in drag. Also it saved 1.2kg which was a nice surprise.
(https://i.postimg.cc/nhW1LcfN/20230718-181139.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9DG982MB)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZKVc1x7b/20230718-211644.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rKRx4x23)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GmtQrTVk/20230718-211717.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pmN8Jr2T)
Post by: pudding on August 11, 2023, 10:45:30 pm
Without the A/C condenser removed, debris shouldn't build up like that again, plus the obvious airflow benefits :happy2:
Yeah I wouldn't have swiss cheesed the radiator cowling like that tbh :grin: It reduces the amount of air pulled through the rad when sat in traffic, although as your car is predominantly for track work, it shouldn't really matter in your case :happy2: Defo not recommended on a daily though :grin:
Swiss cheesed bumper should help the intercooler though, and indeed engine cooling at high rpm :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on August 31, 2023, 12:12:43 am
10Kg, is that all?! I thought it would be a bit more than that! Oh well, 10Kg is 10kg :happy2:
Without the A/C condenser removed, debris shouldn't build up like that again, plus the obvious airflow benefits :happy2:
Yeah I wouldn't have swiss cheesed the radiator cowling like that tbh :grin: It reduces the amount of air pulled through the rad when sat in traffic, although as your car is predominantly for track work, it shouldn't really matter in your case :happy2: Defo not recommended on a daily though :grin:
Swiss cheesed bumper should help the intercooler though, and indeed engine cooling at high rpm :happy2:
yeah 10kg, all on the front end though, still in bits anyway so not had a chance to test it yet :grin: MOT is soon so need to get it sorted. Debating removing the heater blower/matrix as its a big old chunky thing and possibly just ducting the heater radiator next, not sure yet as I'm not exactly sure how much it weighs and not sure how easy it will be to fit back in just for the sake of weighing it so could end up being a headache.
Post by: pudding on September 01, 2023, 09:21:45 pm
Have you got a target weight in mind? What do they weigh as standard? 1350ish kg?
Post by: Clarkj93 on September 01, 2023, 10:01:42 pm
Yeah you could bin off the entire HVAC system, that's a probably a hefty chunk of weight. Sod it, delete the whole dash and just gaffer tape the clocks to the bulkhead :grin:
Have you got a target weight in mind? What do they weigh as standard? 1350ish kg?
yeah it looks it, I've seen rainex stuff to stop all windows from fogging up so don't really need a heater, can always just plug the coolant heater pipes up or just leave that entire coolant heater core in place anyway as its not doing anything anyway and I could possibly see lower temps keeping it in place and even ducting it outwards. The blower is still quite strong without AC so could be useful except on really humid days so I'll have to decide if the weight & weight distribution is worth it or not. Having done a lot of sim racing I have found that times are far more consistent when I'm super cool rather than when I'm getting warm as the overworked PC does heat up a room like an electric fire so if its saving 5kg over myself being more focused, faster & safer then its an easy decision to make!
hahaha why not go further? just draw the speedo on the windscreen with black marker and delete all the dials altogether :grin:
Ummm I got told it was about 1405/1410 last year with about 3/8th of a tank of fuel and no spare tyre in rear (not sure if that includes my own personal weight in the drivers seat or not though of 75kg), So if that is correct then I've weighed everything I've taken out and it should be 1260kg right now. There is a little bit more to come out in terms of unused brackets/trim/wiring etc. The cage will add about 40 or so and I plan to gut and add perspex windows in the doors which is worth about 30kg off the front end which is great so at 1250 with a cage I'd be happy. There is a lot more than can come out but it gets expensive then... forged wheels, light weight calipers/floating discs, carbon or fibreglass panels, light weight custom T45 crash bars, perspex all around etc.
Post by: Clarkj93 on September 01, 2023, 11:19:22 pm
So the heat shield to cover the bulkhead is a pain to remove and re-install so I just cut the thing up and bent some embossed stuff over it instead. I had to import this stuff from China as could not find anyone in UK who would sell it for a reasonable price which I thought was super strange as its quite a common material in modern cars :stupid:
(https://i.postimg.cc/rpPP3t8g/20230819-142758.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jWycJ2nJ)
Added a little spare stuff over the IAT sensor, I heard before that they can heat soak and read higher temps because of it than the actual air that is in the intake, when I get around to it I'll see if I can put that theory to the test:
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZYpJPJcX/20230819-142050.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXNM4Stg)
Now on 6 inch 550 pound spring up front (roughly 10kg/mm), not test driven yet but I'm pretty sure after so many calculations that we'll end up with a just a stiffer linear setup and the rebound should still be OK with this spring. Using a 7 inch 450 on rear which is the same sort of thing, linear and a little stiffer.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z5rN1k4Q/20230821-185648.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w1j3mGt5)
Bought a cheap little camber guage, you have to calibrate it everytime you use it and it does un-calibrate itself which just a single violent shake so got to be very careful using it but I just wanted to see how much camber I was roughly getting with the top mounts and if I could adjust them to still hit my target of -3.5 up front but with a bit more castor by rotating the top mount to move the strut rearwards. But.... when setting the camber at max both sides on the front it showed 2 degrees on the left and 5 degrees on the right? I think possibly the floor was not perfectly level (it was by eye though) and the subframe might be in some really weird position so I'm just going to try and get the subframe in a happy position for now and set the front camber to -3.5 via a trusted shop and if there is plenty of room left in the camber aligning area then I'll know next time I can add more castor.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vZJykBGr/20230901-164012.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gxH16GXj)
Some pics of the bumper trim, like a minute amount less drag and I'm usually not one for the aesthetics and more about function over everything else but I think its looks cool in person more than anything :grin:
(https://i.postimg.cc/bv95gNrN/20230901-164910.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rdzgFT5v)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0Ns37J8B/20230901-164930.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xX6t28Nv)
Post by: pudding on September 01, 2023, 11:42:07 pm
Yeah you could bin off the entire HVAC system, that's a probably a hefty chunk of weight. Sod it, delete the whole dash and just gaffer tape the clocks to the bulkhead :grin:
Have you got a target weight in mind? What do they weigh as standard? 1350ish kg?
yeah it looks it, I've seen rainex stuff to stop all windows from fogging up so don't really need a heater, can always just plug the coolant heater pipes up or just leave that entire coolant heater core in place anyway as its not doing anything anyway and I could possibly see lower temps keeping it in place and even ducting it outwards. The blower is still quite strong without AC so could be useful except on really humid days so I'll have to decide if the weight & weight distribution is worth it or not. Having done a lot of sim racing I have found that times are far more consistent when I'm super cool rather than when I'm getting warm as the overworked PC does heat up a room like an electric fire so if its saving 5kg over myself being more focused, faster & safer then its an easy decision to make!
hahaha why not go further? just draw the speedo on the windscreen with black marker and delete all the dials altogether :grin:
Ummm I got told it was about 1405/1410 last year with about 3/8th of a tank of fuel and no spare tyre in rear (not sure if that includes my own personal weight in the drivers seat or not though of 75kg), So if that is correct then I've weighed everything I've taken out and it should be 1260kg right now. There is a little bit more to come out in terms of unused brackets/trim/wiring etc. The cage will add about 40 or so and I plan to gut and add perspex windows in the doors which is worth about 30kg off the front end which is great so at 1250 with a cage I'd be happy. There is a lot more than can come out but it gets expensive then... forged wheels, light weight calipers/floating discs, carbon or fibreglass panels, light weight custom T45 crash bars, perspex all around etc.
Yeah the Rainex anti-fog stuff works well. I used a 180 degree plumbing elbow on an old Golf years ago to bypass the heater core when it failed, which would work. You need to do that rather than plugging the circuit as you could run into engine overheating issues otherwise :grin:
Yeah you don't want to cook inside the car and have your lap times suffer as a result :grin:
Not sure that would pass inspection :grin: Although I don't know if a speedo is a requirement on track?
Ah, heavier than I thought! Is there a public weigh bridge near you? Some of them are OK with you getting out of it when it's weighed, but some aren't for 'safety reasons' :grin:
1250 is pretty good. I'm not sure all that expensive stuff would reduce times enough to justify the cost. Probably cheaper to turn the boost up!
Post by: pudding on September 01, 2023, 11:59:09 pm
Not done much lately, getting married Sunday :phew: so even I've struggled to escape to the golf :grin:
So the heat shield to cover the bulkhead is a pain to remove and re-install so I just cut the thing up and bent some embossed stuff over it instead. I had to import this stuff from China as could not find anyone in UK who would sell it for a reasonable price which I thought was super strange as its quite a common material in modern cars :stupid:
(https://i.postimg.cc/rpPP3t8g/20230819-142758.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jWycJ2nJ)
Added a little spare stuff over the IAT sensor, I heard before that they can heat soak and read higher temps because of it than the actual air that is in the intake, when I get around to it I'll see if I can put that theory to the test:
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZYpJPJcX/20230819-142050.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXNM4Stg)
Now on 6 inch 550 pound spring up front (roughly 10kg/mm), not test driven yet but I'm pretty sure after so many calculations that we'll end up with a just a stiffer linear setup and the rebound should still be OK with this spring. Using a 7 inch 450 on rear which is the same sort of thing, linear and a little stiffer.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z5rN1k4Q/20230821-185648.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w1j3mGt5)
Bought a cheap little camber guage, you have to calibrate it everytime you use it and it does un-calibrate itself which just a single violent shake so got to be very careful using it but I just wanted to see how much camber I was roughly getting with the top mounts and if I could adjust them to still hit my target of -3.5 up front but with a bit more castor by rotating the top mount to move the strut rearwards. But.... when setting the camber at max both sides on the front it showed 2 degrees on the left and 5 degrees on the right? I think possibly the floor was not perfectly level (it was by eye though) and the subframe might be in some really weird position so I'm just going to try and get the subframe in a happy position for now and set the front camber to -3.5 via a trusted shop and if there is plenty of room left in the camber aligning area then I'll know next time I can add more castor.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vZJykBGr/20230901-164012.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gxH16GXj)
Some pics of the bumper trim, like a minute amount less drag and I'm usually not one for the aesthetics and more about function over everything else but I think its looks cool in person more than anything :grin:
(https://i.postimg.cc/bv95gNrN/20230901-164910.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rdzgFT5v)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0Ns37J8B/20230901-164930.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xX6t28Nv)
Ah good for you mate and best wishes for the day :happy2: Not something I've ever fancied doing tbh, much to my girlfriend's disgust :grin:
Yeah that stuff costs a fortune over here for some reason. It's just stamped aluminium sheet :stupid:
The intake sensor does indeed heat soak because of where it is, but on the move it sorts itself out quickly. It's just at idle sitting in traffic it gives a high reading. If you have VCDS running, you will see it drop right down if you crack the throttle open to get some fresh air through it. More importantly, the reading isn't the intercooler temp....it's just the heat of being right next to the cylinder head and low airflow when the throttle is closed.
Interested to hear how the stiffer springs work out. 400lb front and 350/400 rear is fairy common on most coilovers as a starting point, so 550 isn't massively stiffer. A lot of folk run the same stiffness front and rear because the rear springs being inboard behave differently.....aka 'motion ratio' but it's all good experimenting :happy2: Are your dampers up to that level of extra stiffness? I fitted stiffer Eibachs to my Ohlins and it was a bit too bouncy for my tastes as the dampers weren't up to it, even at max stiffness. Stiffer springs keep the car flatter in the corners though, so you don't need massive ARBs.
Have you got a deadset kit fitted to your subframe? That usually helps iron out camber discrepancies. Most of them have more camber on one side from the factory! Mine was stock -0.55 on one side, and -1.2 on the other side on it's standard suspension. Shoddy! Even with SuperPro ball joints, the best I could achieve was -1.2 and -1.5. One BJ was fully in and other fully out to get that. They're not the best cars for alignment! So long as the toe and caster are the same, it doesn't really matter too much.
The rear end looks pretty cool actually :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on September 02, 2023, 12:34:04 am
Not done much lately, getting married Sunday :phew: so even I've struggled to escape to the golf :grin:
So the heat shield to cover the bulkhead is a pain to remove and re-install so I just cut the thing up and bent some embossed stuff over it instead. I had to import this stuff from China as could not find anyone in UK who would sell it for a reasonable price which I thought was super strange as its quite a common material in modern cars :stupid:
(https://i.postimg.cc/rpPP3t8g/20230819-142758.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jWycJ2nJ)
Added a little spare stuff over the IAT sensor, I heard before that they can heat soak and read higher temps because of it than the actual air that is in the intake, when I get around to it I'll see if I can put that theory to the test:
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZYpJPJcX/20230819-142050.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXNM4Stg)
Now on 6 inch 550 pound spring up front (roughly 10kg/mm), not test driven yet but I'm pretty sure after so many calculations that we'll end up with a just a stiffer linear setup and the rebound should still be OK with this spring. Using a 7 inch 450 on rear which is the same sort of thing, linear and a little stiffer.
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z5rN1k4Q/20230821-185648.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w1j3mGt5)
Bought a cheap little camber guage, you have to calibrate it everytime you use it and it does un-calibrate itself which just a single violent shake so got to be very careful using it but I just wanted to see how much camber I was roughly getting with the top mounts and if I could adjust them to still hit my target of -3.5 up front but with a bit more castor by rotating the top mount to move the strut rearwards. But.... when setting the camber at max both sides on the front it showed 2 degrees on the left and 5 degrees on the right? I think possibly the floor was not perfectly level (it was by eye though) and the subframe might be in some really weird position so I'm just going to try and get the subframe in a happy position for now and set the front camber to -3.5 via a trusted shop and if there is plenty of room left in the camber aligning area then I'll know next time I can add more castor.
(https://i.postimg.cc/vZJykBGr/20230901-164012.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gxH16GXj)
Some pics of the bumper trim, like a minute amount less drag and I'm usually not one for the aesthetics and more about function over everything else but I think its looks cool in person more than anything :grin:
(https://i.postimg.cc/bv95gNrN/20230901-164910.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rdzgFT5v)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0Ns37J8B/20230901-164930.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xX6t28Nv)
Ah good for you mate and best wishes for the day :happy2: Not something I've ever fancied doing tbh, much to my girlfriend's disgust :grin:
Yeah that stuff costs a fortune over here for some reason. It's just stamped aluminium sheet :stupid:
The intake sensor does indeed heat soak because of where it is, but on the move it sorts itself out quickly. It's just at idle sitting in traffic it gives a high reading. If you have VCDS running, you will see it drop right down if you crack the throttle open to get some fresh air through it. More importantly, the reading isn't the intercooler temp....it's just the heat of being right next to the cylinder head and low airflow when the throttle is closed.
Interested to hear how the stiffer springs work out. 400lb front and 350/400 rear is fairy common on most coilovers as a starting point, so 550 isn't massively stiffer. A lot of folk run the same stiffness front and rear because the rear springs being inboard behave differently.....aka 'motion ratio' but it's all good experimenting :happy2: Are your dampers up to that level of extra stiffness? I fitted stiffer Eibachs to my Ohlins and it was a bit too bouncy for my tastes as the dampers weren't up to it, even at max stiffness. Stiffer springs keep the car flatter in the corners though, so you don't need massive ARBs.
Have you got a deadset kit fitted to your subframe? That usually helps iron out camber discrepancies. Most of them have more camber on one side from the factory! Mine was stock -0.55 on one side, and -1.2 on the other side on it's standard suspension. Shoddy! Even with SuperPro ball joints, the best I could achieve was -1.2 and -1.5. One BJ was fully in and other fully out to get that. They're not the best cars for alignment! So long as the toe and caster are the same, it doesn't really matter too much.
The rear end looks pretty cool actually :happy2:
Thanks!
Oh that's real interesting about the throttle open to reduce the reading! That is something I would like to experiment with for sure.
Yeah so I measured the second rate of the bilstein springs as 480 front and 370 rear so kinda just copying the same balance front to rear and staying within a safe tolerance. More worried about the front as it does roll still more than I'd like at the front even with a bigger arb in the mid turn and when hard on the brakes. I was speaking to Julian at balance motorsport recently who basically told me if you're subtle on the stiffness increase your okay but if its substantially stiffer springs you should re valve, he did recommend just buying new coilovers though if going way stiffer as if your getting Bilstein to re valve it would probably be best to shorter the damper and possibly add adjustment and add that point it's the cost of a set of off the shelf or custom gaz coilovers anyway.
No never noticed that subframe walk issue really, I've always wondered too as the dead set kits add plain metal on top of the subframe alloy which has load of grooves in it to grip into the shell but is then covered so in my untrained mind feels like your possibly more likely to loose your alignment?
That is a bit rubbish to be fair, I've toyed with the idea of string aligning myself but nah... It's so much effort into it on jack stands and so easy to read stuff wrong unless you have pricey equipment. I've got some basic toe plates turning up soon but that's just so I can get the car driving straight to take it to a trusted shop for a proper alignment rather than getting kwik fit to do it every time for £60 just so I cna safely drive to have a proper alignment afterwards :stupid:
Post by: pudding on September 02, 2023, 02:00:35 am
Julian is a legend! I think he's written a book! I remember when he first setup his business he would chat on the phone for ages, going into detail and explaining the fundamentals :happy2: He custom spec'd a set of Gaz Gold for my Corrado back in the day. It was for road use only, so he spec'd much softer springs than I would have chosen myself.....325lb front, 225lb rear, but man did it ride and handle well :happy2: Just feed him the axle weights and the car's intended purpose, and he comes up with the goods. Interestingly enough, the only reason the MK7 Clubsport broke the ring record (at the time) was because of it's softer 'ring mode' suspension setting. Interesting. Maybe stiff isn't always the way :thinking: Logically speaking, if the suspension is soft enough to absorb bumps at high speed but stiff enough to prop the car up, it deflects the body shell less, which improves stability and consistency. That is the problem with going too stiff, it can jog the car around too much, unsettling it mid corner....but it depends how bumpy the track is I suppose.
The Ohlins and Gaz Gold are the best coilovers I've ever owned, and both were on the softer side of the norm. Neither lasted long though unfortunately, but I think Gaz have sorted their quality issues now. Gaz are ex Leda, who were a top brand back in the day :happy2:
When it boils down to it, damper quality is the key. If they are top notch, you can afford to back the spring rate off a bit. The temptation is to eradicate all body roll completely, but a bit of roll can be advantageous in some situations. It's all about slip angles and other complex stuff I can't get my head around :grin:
Anyway, I would 100% take advice from the ledge Julian :happy2:
The deadsets are collars to take up the difference in the subframe holes being much bigger than the bolt diameter, which locks it into place and it cannot move. I tried the VAG fix with stiffer bolts and the toothed washers but the subframe still moved. With the collars, the steering feel and alignment were waaaaay more consistent in hard cornering. Without the collars, the movement was so bad, my steering wheel was a few degrees off centre after slinging it hard into a bend :grin: And then do the same thing in the next corner, and it would move the opposite way! Consistency is important on hard track work.
Getting it close with string or camber gauges is fine to get you somewhere. 4 wheel alignments aren't cheap and annoying if you have to keep doing them with every suspension tweak!
Post by: Clarkj93 on September 02, 2023, 05:14:07 am
Yeah got his book, I think if you just tell him you liked his book he will help you out with anything you want :grin:
Didn't know that clubsport went softer... Thought they'd have gone stiffer but not driven a mk7 maybe they're quite stiff from factory anyway. I just chose on stiffer as I know all the mk5 race cars are running much higher rates, when it's time to upgrade dampers I'd like to take time in measuring corner weights and unspring mass and roll centres etc. There are a few hard to find guides about on the Web that show how to precisely pick the correct rates for maximum grip/balance and surface.
Youve convinced me on the dead set kit.... Looking around I think the tyrol one looks best design being a tougher material and the lower washers having a ridge to stop the bolt head from being able to dislodge.
Post by: pudding on September 09, 2023, 12:14:18 pm
:grin: Ask him about his old Peugeot 205 gti next time you speak to him. It had a rear mounted turbo on it! I think it was on that car he cut his teeth on suspension tuning :happy2:
Yeah the ring is a bumpy track by all accounts. Never been, but in the onboard videos online, it certainly looks bumpy! So backing off the damping in 'ring mode' helps with stability at speed. When I was messing with mine, roll centre was the single most important thing to get right, but I just lacked the funds and inclination to investigate TTRS knuckles. If that approach isn't affordable, then stiffer springs it has to be unfortunately!
The Tyrol kit was very good. Not the cheapest but it certainly did the job. The only snag with very precise subframe location is it makes subframe refitment trickier if it ever has to come down again. Lots of fenangling with precise angles etc but it's doable. But on the flip side, the geometry doesn't change as it all goes back exactly where it was, unlike the stock sloppy fitment :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on September 15, 2023, 12:50:32 pm
Yeah it's just the valve overlap heating up the intake, perfectly normal. That is also why catch cans and PCV deletes are pointless. Exhaust reversion carbons up the intake valves regardless.
:grin: Ask him about his old Peugeot 205 gti next time you speak to him. It had a rear mounted turbo on it! I think it was on that car he cut his teeth on suspension tuning :happy2:
Yeah the ring is a bumpy track by all accounts. Never been, but in the onboard videos online, it certainly looks bumpy! So backing off the damping in 'ring mode' helps with stability at speed. When I was messing with mine, roll centre was the single most important thing to get right, but I just lacked the funds and inclination to investigate TTRS knuckles. If that approach isn't affordable, then stiffer springs it has to be unfortunately!
The Tyrol kit was very good. Not the cheapest but it certainly did the job. The only snag with very precise subframe location is it makes subframe refitment trickier if it ever has to come down again. Lots of fenangling with precise angles etc but it's doable. But on the flip side, the geometry doesn't change as it all goes back exactly where it was, unlike the stock sloppy fitment :happy2:
Yeah I misread the price on the Tyrol kit... ouch! Creation Motorsport do one too which is much more affordable, their quality is usually very good considering the price but albeit not the best you can get. Does that mean when you fitted the deadset kit that the subframe only has 1 position it can go in? getting rid of the the subframe being in a right wonky state like mine is now after fiddling with it?
Post by: terrier on September 15, 2023, 03:25:44 pm
As said tyrol kit which i have fitted hasnt moved in 4 years The CM ones are not quality and are suspiciously similar to aliexpress ones I bought the washers only and they are BADYeah it's just the valve overlap heating up the intake, perfectly normal. That is also why catch cans and PCV deletes are pointless. Exhaust reversion carbons up the intake valves regardless.
:grin: Ask him about his old Peugeot 205 gti next time you speak to him. It had a rear mounted turbo on it! I think it was on that car he cut his teeth on suspension tuning :happy2:
Yeah the ring is a bumpy track by all accounts. Never been, but in the onboard videos online, it certainly looks bumpy! So backing off the damping in 'ring mode' helps with stability at speed. When I was messing with mine, roll centre was the single most important thing to get right, but I just lacked the funds and inclination to investigate TTRS knuckles. If that approach isn't affordable, then stiffer springs it has to be unfortunately!
The Tyrol kit was very good. Not the cheapest but it certainly did the job. The only snag with very precise subframe location is it makes subframe refitment trickier if it ever has to come down again. Lots of fenangling with precise angles etc but it's doable. But on the flip side, the geometry doesn't change as it all goes back exactly where it was, unlike the stock sloppy fitment :happy2:
Yeah I misread the price on the Tyrol kit... ouch! Creation Motorsport do one too which is much more affordable, their quality is usually very good considering the price but albeit not the best you can get. Does that mean when you fitted the deadset kit that the subframe only has 1 position it can go in? getting rid of the the subframe being in a right wonky state like mine is now after fiddling with it?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32830273084.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.74.21ef1802SVmNCq
Post by: Clarkj93 on September 15, 2023, 03:50:07 pm
As said tyrol kit which i have fitted hasnt moved in 4 years The CM ones are not quality and are suspiciously similar to aliexpress ones I bought the washers only and they are BADYeah it's just the valve overlap heating up the intake, perfectly normal. That is also why catch cans and PCV deletes are pointless. Exhaust reversion carbons up the intake valves regardless.
:grin: Ask him about his old Peugeot 205 gti next time you speak to him. It had a rear mounted turbo on it! I think it was on that car he cut his teeth on suspension tuning :happy2:
Yeah the ring is a bumpy track by all accounts. Never been, but in the onboard videos online, it certainly looks bumpy! So backing off the damping in 'ring mode' helps with stability at speed. When I was messing with mine, roll centre was the single most important thing to get right, but I just lacked the funds and inclination to investigate TTRS knuckles. If that approach isn't affordable, then stiffer springs it has to be unfortunately!
The Tyrol kit was very good. Not the cheapest but it certainly did the job. The only snag with very precise subframe location is it makes subframe refitment trickier if it ever has to come down again. Lots of fenangling with precise angles etc but it's doable. But on the flip side, the geometry doesn't change as it all goes back exactly where it was, unlike the stock sloppy fitment :happy2:
Yeah I misread the price on the Tyrol kit... ouch! Creation Motorsport do one too which is much more affordable, their quality is usually very good considering the price but albeit not the best you can get. Does that mean when you fitted the deadset kit that the subframe only has 1 position it can go in? getting rid of the the subframe being in a right wonky state like mine is now after fiddling with it?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32830273084.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.74.21ef1802SVmNCq
Shame that... Did they just move around or break or something that made them a no-go?
Post by: pudding on October 21, 2023, 12:27:13 am
Yeah it's just the valve overlap heating up the intake, perfectly normal. That is also why catch cans and PCV deletes are pointless. Exhaust reversion carbons up the intake valves regardless.
:grin: Ask him about his old Peugeot 205 gti next time you speak to him. It had a rear mounted turbo on it! I think it was on that car he cut his teeth on suspension tuning :happy2:
Yeah the ring is a bumpy track by all accounts. Never been, but in the onboard videos online, it certainly looks bumpy! So backing off the damping in 'ring mode' helps with stability at speed. When I was messing with mine, roll centre was the single most important thing to get right, but I just lacked the funds and inclination to investigate TTRS knuckles. If that approach isn't affordable, then stiffer springs it has to be unfortunately!
The Tyrol kit was very good. Not the cheapest but it certainly did the job. The only snag with very precise subframe location is it makes subframe refitment trickier if it ever has to come down again. Lots of fenangling with precise angles etc but it's doable. But on the flip side, the geometry doesn't change as it all goes back exactly where it was, unlike the stock sloppy fitment :happy2:
Yeah I misread the price on the Tyrol kit... ouch! Creation Motorsport do one too which is much more affordable, their quality is usually very good considering the price but albeit not the best you can get. Does that mean when you fitted the deadset kit that the subframe only has 1 position it can go in? getting rid of the the subframe being in a right wonky state like mine is now after fiddling with it?
Jesus they've gone up, substantially! :surprised: I'm sure it was around £150 when I got mine, but that was like, 6 years ago or something :grin: Welcome to Brexit, cost of living crisis, and erm, reasons!
Yeah exactly that. Once the deadset is fitted, the subframe can only go back on in exactly the same position it came off, which is fiddly. You can of course just dissamble everything and bolt things back up individually, but then you'd likely need a realignment because the consoles would move out of their locked in position, well, from what I can remember at least. The fiddliness of putting it back as one lump pays off because the alignment doesn't change :smiley:
The key to a decent deadset is the alignment collars need to be harder than aluminium and also not cause galvanic corrosion. Tyrol's bronze alloy does that nicely. Aluminum collars would be a waste of time and stainless ones would definitely cause galvanic corrosion. It's why OEMs don't use stainless bolts.
Another key advantage of the deadset is the ARP bolts, which I might have mentioned previously. Again, Tyrol identified the main area of slipping and just binned off the VAG bolts in favour of decent ones. That is why the kits are expensive because the bolts are custom and low volume for a big company like ARP. Something to remember is Tyrol are race car specialists. Cloning companies are just that, they just copy a decent product and delude themselves that inferior materials will do the same job.
I totally get they are expensive for a few collars and bolts, but it's the only kit I'd recommend personally :happy2:
Haven't been on here in a while, any updates, or is the old girl tucked away for winter hybernation now?
Post by: terrier on October 21, 2023, 06:53:56 am
Aluminium versus stainless :wink: Chalk and cheese driving, no noise with the stainless kitAs said tyrol kit which i have fitted hasnt moved in 4 years The CM ones are not quality and are suspiciously similar to aliexpress ones I bought the washers only and they are BADYeah it's just the valve overlap heating up the intake, perfectly normal. That is also why catch cans and PCV deletes are pointless. Exhaust reversion carbons up the intake valves regardless.
:grin: Ask him about his old Peugeot 205 gti next time you speak to him. It had a rear mounted turbo on it! I think it was on that car he cut his teeth on suspension tuning :happy2:
Yeah the ring is a bumpy track by all accounts. Never been, but in the onboard videos online, it certainly looks bumpy! So backing off the damping in 'ring mode' helps with stability at speed. When I was messing with mine, roll centre was the single most important thing to get right, but I just lacked the funds and inclination to investigate TTRS knuckles. If that approach isn't affordable, then stiffer springs it has to be unfortunately!
The Tyrol kit was very good. Not the cheapest but it certainly did the job. The only snag with very precise subframe location is it makes subframe refitment trickier if it ever has to come down again. Lots of fenangling with precise angles etc but it's doable. But on the flip side, the geometry doesn't change as it all goes back exactly where it was, unlike the stock sloppy fitment :happy2:
Yeah I misread the price on the Tyrol kit... ouch! Creation Motorsport do one too which is much more affordable, their quality is usually very good considering the price but albeit not the best you can get. Does that mean when you fitted the deadset kit that the subframe only has 1 position it can go in? getting rid of the the subframe being in a right wonky state like mine is now after fiddling with it?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32830273084.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.74.21ef1802SVmNCq
Shame that... Did they just move around or break or something that made them a no-go?
The aluminium washers lost their shape Price says it all really :thinking:
Post by: Clarkj93 on October 28, 2023, 08:59:33 pm
Well life has been busy plus I lost interest for about a month to be honest, I was enjoying eating and drinking too much :grin:
The last two weeks just been cleaning up and getting it ready for its MOT, fingers crossed it goes through, I'm not totally convinced it will yet :grin:
After taking the shocks off and on so many times the wheels were allover the place. So I tried doing a home alignment for the first time, it was actually okay and the car drives straight about 90% of the time, its just adding a lot of lock when parking or navigating around low speed tight bends where you noticed its a little askew but perfectly safe to use and drive to the MOT and for the 1.5 hour trip to Taunton to get retro resus to set it up properly.
(https://i.postimg.cc/nLRsvT5v/20231028-104801.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJmPn8Kj)
So after test driving and confirm it aligned okay I got to test the new 550 front/450 rear spring setup. Despite being about 1kg/mm stiffer front and rear the car actually rides far better on the road as well as being stiffer in total.... I really do not understand the point in progressive springs, they just seem to ride like crap and give less performance. The only issue I have currently is now the top mount is mounted lower, it means the angle of the drop link is less up-right and when I have the ARB on full hard it is genuinely only has about 2mm of clearance from the driveshaft! Full soft and medium the clearance is fine though, I do want to run it on full hard though too as for anyone who knows Combe, the exit of the Esses (first chicane) there is so much camber that you can lose a lot of time by having too soft ARB's. I might just ask Retro Resus to see if they can wiggle stuff around next time, I cant be asked taking subframes off in the winter months frankly!
Little bonus pic just because I thought it looked so cool from behind parked in the driveway!
(https://i.postimg.cc/RFgTJc18/20231028-180358.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N9rXW2z7)
Post by: Aleksandar on November 04, 2023, 11:30:55 am
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 05, 2023, 12:10:20 am
Very nice build and it's interesting to see your progress regarding brakes and suspension... Would you remember what thread size the b14 are? And how do you find the ar1 vs ns2r?
Umm the B14 damper body thread is described as Bilsteins own thread, but lots of companies make parts that fit these threads anyway. It uses a 2.25 inch spring/spring seat. From memory I think the top mount thread is an M14?
NS2R is great, seriously people bad mouthe it for he wrong reasons, its decent in the wet on the road, good on track but it will get hot and loose grip eventually after maybe 10 mins but its linear so it gradually goes off unlike a slick tyre that may just go from on to off, plus its cheap and is still much quicker than your standard PS4 tyre.
AR-1 feel similar just much more grip and its like 80% of the grip instantly, the warm up lap is almost optional as its ready to go straight away as long as its dry.
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 05, 2023, 08:20:40 am
(https://i.postimg.cc/5yBgkcfS/20231104-143136.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LgsjnbYJ)
Trying to get this heater core out without having to drain the coolant is my current challenge, I just can't be asked getting under the car in the crappy weather right now :grin:
The heater core is 100% going though, I imagine it weighs a fair bit looking at the size of it and it has a TON of wiring in it too. I will need some rainex for the windscreen and rear window then. Part of me is thinking of keeping the heater matrix however, as it will act as a sort heat sink, I could possibly run a small duct to it or from it also for more cooling, my only concern is will it be impossible to stop the interior getting rediculously hot?
The main to do list looks like the following currently:
- remove as much wiring and unrequired items as possible
- relocate battery to interior (need a new gel battery)
- install new steering wheel
- ditch heater core for lighter solution
Its not going to be a quick turnaround I imagine though, as its all quite a mess right now! I'm still in two minds about adding a fibreglass vented bonnet and plastic windows for the front as a light bonnet and gutting the doors out and adding plastic windows equals about 30-40kg in weight saving! and all from the front end. We will see..
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 11, 2023, 05:15:59 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/4dNqJxP1/20231111-162036.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XZmQL3TZ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pVS4HxFD/20231111-162040.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hh9pLkMj)
Feels like it weighs 5-7kg as a unit, but then there is the excess wiring, vents, the AC rad, condenser/compressor etc. By the end of it I think its a minimum of 20kg in weight if you ditch the entire AC and heater/blower system.
Nice big hole to fille now, not decided how I'm going to do it yet, will have to do a little research
(https://i.postimg.cc/yYz5djLd/20231111-162052.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bd3LVxcc)
Need to do a little cleaning and then I can start looking at removing unused wiring from the harness while there is lots of space + room, got some auto electrical tape to "try" and package it all neatly back together
(https://i.postimg.cc/KzPPsPBq/20231111-162349.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/njL9XQdB)
Lots of other little bits to do, wiring new buttons, removing anything not needed, moving the battery to a much smaller gel battery inboard instead. make a nice fancy abs control panel for the centre console which is one job I'm actually looking forward to. cap off the coolant hoses, plug the firewall hole and some other little things I'm sure.
I need to consider what I am going to do about the doors, I would love to gut them as there is about 15kg each to get out of them but I need to find out if the cage is enough side impact protection or if I ought to retrain the crash bars in the doors.
Post by: pudding on November 18, 2023, 01:10:27 pm
I really do not understand the point in progressive springs, they just seem to ride like crap and give less performance.
Yup! Exactly why I was less than thrilled by the Racingline kit. Every aftermarket progressive spring I've tried has been sh1te. OEM ones are far better, but still not ideal. Linear all the way :happy2:
Is that harness tape the OEM style soft felt type stuff? If so it's really good :happy2:
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 18, 2023, 09:16:42 pm
I really do not understand the point in progressive springs, they just seem to ride like crap and give less performance.
Yup! Exactly why I was less than thrilled by the Racingline kit. Every aftermarket progressive spring I've tried has been sh1te. OEM ones are far better, but still not ideal. Linear all the way :happy2:
Is that harness tape the OEM style soft felt type stuff? If so it's really good :happy2:
yeah mate the oem style, trying to keep as neat and tidy as possible.
Post by: Clarkj93 on November 18, 2023, 09:31:05 pm
(https://i.postimg.cc/Fzy443tZ/20231118-100638.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9wQSP4QR)
blank silicone plug too
(https://i.postimg.cc/h4b6KSzp/20231118-100634.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7bhmVrN2)
Full setup looks like this to delete the entire heater core and AC:
(https://i.postimg.cc/445LrBq0/20231118-100643.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6T8fZL9V)
started gathering wiring. its very scary to start getting it ready to remove and hoping nothing breaks dramatically but a good learning point. I have heard of some other cars of similar age ditching over 10kg from just wiring... I don't think we will ditch that much as its still going to be mot worthy but I will be happy with half that frankly.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RhH7d16v/20231118-120925.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gLGLkZH7)
Post by: pudding on November 24, 2023, 11:12:05 pm
Post by: Clarkj93 on January 29, 2024, 10:15:39 pm
Sealed off the firewall, 2mm aluminium plate riveted down and using a heat resistant sealant, then just used some foil tape as a bit of extra thermal resistance to keep the cabin cooler.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZRxQC9Cn/20240121-143655.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/njM2WhKf)
(https://i.postimg.cc/DZTDvQfR/20240121-143658.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TytQQDDc)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HLpXTVDB/20240127-100317.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Js2Gq7hk)
Lightened the dash and made it generally easier to install/remove by getting rid of the brackets that are not needed anymore. 1.5kg saved overall which is nothing to be sniffed at considering its free and makes it easier to fit now.
(https://i.postimg.cc/RFvBsxt3/20240127-115255.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QBYwCP0s)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rpkXs2Qh/20240127-122930.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mP86pJxM)
Went in so much easier, took all of about 3 minutes to fit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/7hkrG8HP/20240127-124941.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YGbsZPLT)
Made a new control panel, ABS sheet with carbon look to it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/XJ29X3cd/20240124-173122.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8J67n2Yz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/DwJ4FHzp/20240129-210606.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tsb4NrWF)
Lots of little jobs to do and need to do a test of some of the electrics but aiming to book it in within a month. Been doing a bit of reading on what I want/can justify the cost of and what designs I will get value out of. Gussets on A and B pillars for example look great but the cost to take windshield and side windows out and back in and the labour/material cost would be quite an increase on the overall cost. A rear strut brace and dash bar between the A pillars are simple to add but add a lot of rigidity so great value. Not sure what I am going to do about paint yet though! Definitely want to keep the cost low for paint, as long as it protects it from rust and does not look terrible I'm okay with that.
Post by: pudding on February 10, 2024, 01:06:18 pm
Love that picture of the angle grinder next to the dash with chunks on the floor :grin: Not normally a part you see people attacking with a grinder :happy2: :grin:
You must be running out of things to remove/lighten? :grin:
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 12, 2024, 10:02:03 pm
Good stuff having a break as you don't want car fatigue setting in!
Love that picture of the angle grinder next to the dash with chunks on the floor :grin: Not normally a part you see people attacking with a grinder :happy2: :grin:
You must be running out of things to remove/lighten? :grin:
haha yeah almost all of the free weight savings mods done now :(
Post by: Clarkj93 on March 12, 2024, 10:59:39 pm
Trimmed the battery bracket so I could use it to mount a transfer box for the starter cable and the positive cable
(https://i.postimg.cc/bwwfg3wX/20240226-213830.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w7ZrT5NF)
Placed the battery then behind the passenger seat. Opted over the boot for a few reasons... simpler install, less cable required, closer to the moment of inertia so can help rotation. Should also help the cross weights a little. Its just a cheap 50 quid mobility scooter battery, starts up fine though! There is a lot removed now though, including the comfort pack so really not many electric modules or features still left to manage.
(https://i.postimg.cc/v8X4Z2jk/20240302-151724.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YjGrXRtz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jdgnZ34P/20240302-151727.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/6yZQQ0Sp)
MOT man mentioned the bearings were going... had a bit of wheel wobble too. Its been sat for a while so I just took all the wheels off sanded down the hubs really well, re-greased and torqued wheels back up and got the tyre pressures right and its fine now! I wonder how many people fall into a false negative and end up paying 200+ quid in part for bearings or double getting the garage to do it.
Also car is officially booked in for the cage :pomppomp: lots planned, lotta money too :grin:
I've done a bit of research on cages to get it booked in. So gone for the Production GTI Spec cage that Retro Resus provide with some tweaks so overall its a 6 point cage with a rear strut brace, dash bar, rear X, hoop X and driver seat weld in mounts. The rear strut brace and dash bar make a big improvement to rigidity, have gussetts on A + B pillars do too but not to the same level after some research, they do look awesome though but that would add quite a good chunk of cost to overall build so I left that for now.
This gives you an idea what the outcome will be, these are some retro resus Production gti built cars
(https://i.postimg.cc/hvkv6Hwy/Screenshot-2024-03-12-22-45-35.png) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://i.postimg.cc/TwHpqycX/Screenshot-2024-03-12-22-46-32.png) (https://postimages.org/)
They're also going to strip out unnecessary brackets, and trim the boot, and ditch the crash bars and excess metal in the doors themselves and replace front windows with polycarb ones. So after all that it should negate the weight of the cage or be very close anyway. No idea what to do about paint yet :grin: Although it will be done at a warmer and dryer time of year so no manic rush to get that sorted.
They're also going to fit Aerocatches to the boot, and strip out the massive chunk of leftover wiring, and then its a geo setup and good to go!
Post by: pudding on March 16, 2024, 01:12:52 pm