MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Members Rides => Topic started by: christii on November 10, 2021, 02:34:47 pm
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Hey, my names Chris and I'm from Bangor, Northern Ireland. I've bought myself a project GTI that needs rescuing. I'm new to the forum and so far its been a great help especially the Modification catalogue. I thought I would start a little build thread to document the progress of my car.
Back in 2008 my Dad bought a new mk5 Candy White GTI 5 Door Manual. At the time I had an ep3 Type R and although the Civic was class, I preferred the GTI. So when he came to trading it in after 3 years, I sold the Civic and bought his Golf from him.
I loved the car, I have loads of happy memories with it. Me and wife (then GF) used it to drive all over France, Belgium and Luxembourg. Sadly I only owned the car for 2 years until I sold it for a new M135i. Afterwards I always regretted selling the car, if I'm ever asked which car I've owned and miss the most, I always say the mk5.
So about 3 years ago, I wanted a cheap hot hatch for modifying and for track days. I wondered if I could find it again. So I set up some saved search alerts on Gumtree, Used cars NI and Auto Trader.
Every time a 2008 white mk5 comes up for sale in Northern Ireland, I get an email. And for the last 3 years I've had a few emails, but never mine. I ended up buying a Clio 182 FF and kind of forgot about the search for the Golf.
Until a couple of months ago. I got the usual email, but this time when I looked at the reg, it was my car! I couldn't believe it.
I had to have it back. Unfortunately I didn't have any room for another car so I started getting the Clio ready for sale straight away. The sellers ad was rubbish, 3 blurry pictures, very little information. The seller wanted to swap it for a Diesel. Funnily enough he didn't want to swap it for a track focused Clio :grin:.
I went to view the car, and was honestly heart broken. It looked like it had spent the last few years in the sea. Every panel had paint chipped off, and rust had crept in. Underneath was even worse. If I was in the market for any old mk5 GTI, I would run a mile. I actually did at first, I didn't make an offer, told the seller thank you but the ad had no mention of rust whatsoever, and wished him good luck.
I went home annoyed and gutted, I guess I was hoping to find the same car I sold 8 years ago or at least something close.
That night I did a 180. Figured I'll only regret it and I won't get the opportunity to buy it again. So I messaged the guy, gave him a cheeky offer and we quickly agreed on a price. I guess he soon realised his valuation of the car didn't reflect the condition.
So now I am the owner, again, of a 2008 mk5 Candy White Golf GTI Manual.
Plans for the car is basically a restoration of the body work, and to increase power (stage 2 for now) and handling to something that is exciting on the track.
The car is booked in for a respray in March 2022 and until then I'm going to get to work on everything else.
So far I've replaced a couple of bits of interior trim and had the wheels refurbished. I've managed to clean up a good bit of the rust with touch up paint.
Plans for the car is to go Stage 2 for now and maybe pushing to a K04 conversion stage 3 maybe later down the line.
I'm in the process of getting as much new parts together before it goes to the work shop.
So far the parts I've bought are;
A pair of used S3 front brakes
VBT hooked discs all round, Ferodo performance pads.
Darkside upgraded intercooler.
Whiteline front and rear anti roll bars
Whiteline anti lift kit
KW V2 Coilovers
Helix organic clutch kit
Vibratechnics engine mount
Things I still plan to get bought asap;
A 3' power valve turbo back exhaust from @Powervalve Nige (https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=331) if he can ship to Northern Ireland
A Revo intake and tune (R-Tech unfortunately involves a Ferry ride for me)
Obviously I'm new to the forum and in some ways mk5's in general so I need some help and guidance from some of the guys with loads of mk5 experience when it comes to the underside. I'll share some pictures of the state of it, but I think everything will have to be replaced or refurbished. I understand some of Passat b6 parts are considered a good option? Basically I'm not sure where to start with it. If there's any links to anyone elses projects who have to do similar jobs, that would be appreciated.
Any other advice or obvious things I should be doing while the cars at the mechanics then let me now. :happy2:
(https://i.postimg.cc/5yV7354C/IMG-3107.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JDp57kBr)
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Cool story behind this one! Look forward to seeing you restore it to as you remember and better!
I'm still at early stages on mods for mine but one of best things I've done was installing mk2 audi tt alloy control arms and bushes, allows for adjustable camber, setting that at -2 degrees at the front even on oem worn out suspension felt worlds apart than the standard setup I had. At only 80 quid 2nd hand it was also one of the cheapest mods... if you don't count the cost of install as I chickened out doing it myself incase I snapped a bolt in the subframe :grin:
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Thanks! I’ll look into the TT control arms. Is it all mk2 TT’s that fit or just the TFSI ones?
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From my knowledge it is all from the mk2, mine are from a 3.2 v6 quattro for example.
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Excellent read and glad you bought it back..
Mod wise
Lowering either on springs or coil overs
Front console bushes
Poly bushing the arms
S3/r32 rear brakes
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Welcome and a nice back story too :happy2:
I keep looking out my old Lupo GTI, as miss that little pocket rocket loads
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Obviously I'm new to the forum and in some ways mk5's in general so I need some help and guidance from some of the guys with loads of mk5 experience when it comes to the underside. I'll share some pictures of the state of it, but I think everything will have to be replaced or refurbished. I understand some of Passat b6 parts are considered a good option? Basically I'm not sure where to start with it. If there's any links to anyone elses projects who have to do similar jobs, that would be appreciated.
Great story - personally I cant think of any of my old cars I would want back - well maybe one - especially considering the state that I leave them in!
Sounds like quite a shopping list - be aware that the rust proofing on whiteline ARB's isn't great
Edit: Plus I always feel skeptical on the prices of darkside stuff, does this intercooler look familiar: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32403463768.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32403463768.html)
If your feeling brave this is a Wagner tuning clone: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000836496073.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.1.657f7cc7uBBBsc (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000836496073.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.1.657f7cc7uBBBsc) - just bin the hose clamps.
B6 alloy hubs get great reviews - big weight saving over original iron ones.
What about engine servicing, has that been kept up to date?
My Mk5 was from Aberdeen - everything under the car was super crusty - especially rear suspension and subframe - so bad I ended up getting an entire used rear axle and poly bushed it.
As potentially starting a "Rust-off" -I offer blind my rear ARB bracket:
(https://i.vgy.me/K32b3p.jpg)
I keep looking out my old Lupo GTI, as miss that little pocket rocket loads
Yes - fantastic cars
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That rust reminds me of someone....
(https://cdn.vox-cdn.com/thumbor/e24tgTh5ZfpWye1ASp_Fs-OsHUo=/62x0:737x450/1200x800/filters:focal(62x0:737x450)/cdn.vox-cdn.com/uploads/chorus_image/image/46086386/thing_movie.0.0.jpg)
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Obviously I'm new to the forum and in some ways mk5's in general so I need some help and guidance from some of the guys with loads of mk5 experience when it comes to the underside. I'll share some pictures of the state of it, but I think everything will have to be replaced or refurbished. I understand some of Passat b6 parts are considered a good option? Basically I'm not sure where to start with it. If there's any links to anyone elses projects who have to do similar jobs, that would be appreciated.
Great story - personally I cant think of any of my old cars I would want back - well maybe one - especially considering the state that I leave them in!
Sounds like quite a shopping list - be aware that the rust proofing on whiteline ARB's isn't great
Edit: Plus I always feel skeptical on the prices of darkside stuff, does this intercooler look familiar: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32403463768.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32403463768.html)
If your feeling brave this is a Wagner tuning clone: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000836496073.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.1.657f7cc7uBBBsc (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000836496073.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.1.657f7cc7uBBBsc) - just bin the hose clamps.
B6 alloy hubs get great reviews - big weight saving over original iron ones.
What about engine servicing, has that been kept up to date?
My Mk5 was from Aberdeen - everything under the car was super crusty - especially rear suspension and subframe - so bad I ended up getting an entire used rear axle and poly bushed it.
As potentially starting a "Rust-off" -I offer blind my rear ARB bracket:
(https://i.vgy.me/K32b3p.jpg)
I keep looking out my old Lupo GTI, as miss that little pocket rocket loads
Yes - fantastic cars
I had a good look at the intercooler, I have no idea if its an Alibaba special. It has Darkside written on the front and on the top. So hopefully not.
As far as servicing goes it been kept up to date well. It had the timing belt changed over 50k miles ago so I should probably get that done while its at the mechanics. I will also get an oil change, brake fluid change, gearbox oil change when the clutch is being changed, fluid change when the intercooler goes in. Is there anything else I should be doing on a 110k mile car?
(https://i.postimg.cc/Wz7nptrf/036652-AB-74-E5-4-AA4-9652-D7-BA5-ECF82-F3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1Vf6Jmvp)
(https://i.postimg.cc/T2jQJNSq/21143-BE7-FF1-A-45-EE-880-F-FDA561-AD84-C2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fkLxwCMJ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/2S90Bqts/3-D0917-B6-2023-43-C9-B4-EB-20-AD8-E6-EB5-C3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/pm8fwdRC)
(https://i.postimg.cc/GtRK1vBy/51097-AD5-CB49-46-C0-8-C23-63-CB443-F4567.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8JyMRJmp)
(https://i.postimg.cc/W1znjN4X/5-C3-E61-DE-5-E68-4-F7-A-ADC4-E3-E32988-E4-E3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/QFL5Jr1T)
(https://i.postimg.cc/FR3pqTKv/777-B2-B54-7-E26-4-CD9-8-F07-21872-DBEF6-CB.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9RXywtTg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9fv1J6C1/7-D2296-A5-4714-4-FEF-8-AA0-9-DB8-F4-B1-C5-B4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/060pNH6J)
(https://i.postimg.cc/g0wNyzFn/8-A4-DEF39-F196-4447-BAD1-30-C9-AAF41-A54.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/67XrtNQX)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VLYgGBPy/BDB44643-A211-4055-A4-CB-9-D60-CD5-C9-E60.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xq4Lqmdg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/CKfsBck8/DE9423-D4-5-B7-C-45-F2-8284-CCF5-B8-F36-CAE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/67tvFLH6)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nc0k6jnX/DF613-E3-E-024-A-456-A-BA63-4-E005-AAD0-EF6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kBRKS56C)
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It’s awesome that you’ve bought back your old car. Such a shame that it’s got into the state it is but hopefully when you’ve finished with it it should be good as new.
Nearly all my old car just went straight to the scrap heap!
Certainly is rusty...
Other thing to think of at that mileage is the cam chain, thermostat and potentially the VVT gear.
That intercooler is genuine BTW, Darkside are just round the corner from me.
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Cool thanks! I’ll look into the other stuff as well.
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So a bit of an update. First up I tackled the rust underneath. Luckily my mechanic is really sound and left me a set of keys one weekend and let me have a go at tackling the rust in his workshop. When he saw the mess I made, he might of regretted it. :joy:
I had no idea what I was doing, but basically, grind off all the rust, some primer, white stone-chip, then some Candy white. How hard could it be? Really hard. Any bits I couldn't reach, I sprayed with rust converter before I covered it. Fingers crossed it keeps the rust away in the future.
Rear subframe looked like it was brought up from the Titanic. Got another from a scrap yard which was then sandblasted and powder-coated.
I purchased an upgraded fuel pump from Awesome GTI, a new intake from REVO and a K04 turbo kit from Facebook marketplace. Apparently the turbo has been rebuilt in the last year. So should get me 300+bhp easy enough. The car is currently at Autotune NI having the turbo fitted, looking forward to seeing it on the Dyno!
(https://i.postimg.cc/9QfgVNzt/08-D8-B62-A-0896-4-D02-994-E-A6-E56-BBDBEED.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CzWss7Gz)
(https://i.postimg.cc/8znKCB68/0-EFD676-C-E29-A-4-BD1-BC31-C5-E8-ED86312-F.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5XLq7zgp)
(https://i.postimg.cc/d1CSpk3b/1780-DF03-6894-4-CA8-94-A9-220-BE7-F0-C22-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/9RWpqfGb)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/rFfghCgd/3-A10-ACE0-8-B8-D-41-B2-BCC7-A96-C6-D57663-E.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mtFQk9vR)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/nc2SytVh/5-CA6-AE6-C-CD0-B-4344-B513-5-A40-CA54-BA91.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kBVySzt0)
(https://i.postimg.cc/5y1prsZz/5-EA0-AB28-2-B3-D-4-B01-8012-ADEAFFA63-A88.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/sQ6pQ4ff)
(https://i.postimg.cc/kGcwPxmp/8089-EA29-D072-4-D5-C-BA36-385-E7476-BA32.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jnDyznCH)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/HkjzFcP6/8-BD17-B00-79-C3-4-BA8-8212-60-EC6-F8-B8-D96.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w18DmvzN)
(https://i.postimg.cc/jjw8nwHD/994-A9-DE3-71-E6-4036-864-B-802-DF1-F6-B8-F7.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nsxK6Lwx)
(https://i.postimg.cc/j5yZvpkK/9-F3-E5-E86-3834-4-EE3-A591-A16-C42-EF4-A8-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/47N6xSgF)
(https://i.postimg.cc/9MHB4xXk/A15-C35-EF-75-BA-4626-8602-6977-F62-C3-A61.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/06ZSF0wG)
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(https://i.postimg.cc/fb9KR4sX/B9-C7-E553-F7-E7-4906-866-C-5-ACD7-F975-D98.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/wt9JwG7T)
(https://i.postimg.cc/rwbjTVBM/CAC3-EE95-739-B-4287-B0-F6-D06721-D91-EA9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xXvMy2j4)
(https://i.postimg.cc/C5FH7zqH/CD2-EC0-E5-E1-A1-446-A-9-E80-970-A9-F3-EDEBE.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LYb164vn)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nLy34F20/DEF8483-C-6587-4-B14-95-DA-6-AAAF0-E04396.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBjPr1Zy)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bNw92S8q/EF816-DC6-1-EFF-426-A-8-D06-7-B90453-C35-B1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/t78xKTYc)
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Not sure why all the photos have been shuffled into a random order. Though you get the idea.
After the K04 and tune is completed, I'm going to start to tackle the rust on the body work.
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Nice update - great work!
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First … What a cool story :happy2:
Just read it completly…
You’ve put some realy hard work & effort info it!! :happy2:
Enjoy your first love again :love: :jumpmove: :jumpmove:
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That’s awesome work to be fair, and what a legend your mechanic is letting you use his garage!
I’d have been tempted with some new driveshafts though, that rust on them looks out of place now…!
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Time for a depressing update.
Always wondered why the check engine light didn’t show when the ignition is on. I sort of forgot about it but then I mentioned it to the guys who tuned the car, and they reckoned someone had covered it up. I feared the worst, but surely nobody would actually do that?? Well it turns out, yes they do, the previous owner is officially a c**t.
The car had a bunch of misfire fault codes when i first gave it a once over after buying it, which I cleared. And since there was no check engine light, I never thought about the codes ever again. Also, I’ve changed all the spark plugs, coil packs and the cars had a full service.
Well I decided to take the speedo out to see if I could find why the light wasn’t coming on. I can’t believe what I found!
(https://i.postimg.cc/fLhvCJhs/E5-C7-D43-F-2-D8-C-44-BC-9-DF7-9-D2-B0-B64-DE63.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bG3bNYJV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/N0R6KB2z/B937-F576-01-D1-4-FA3-880-E-07-ACDDFC3-BC9.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hJPzwFrL)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wvVDk2V5/3-C71317-D-1-E08-4-DFE-A846-BC46484-E248-D.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7G5CHgjb)
(https://i.postimg.cc/J0zZYX6f/5-DA13749-7-C9-E-44-C2-A6-D1-92-DAA8-F5-E175.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bD4ZsZjg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/90gT6fsr/C7-C7-B2-E6-84-A5-4877-BCE3-747121394962.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jnNLNRxb)
(https://i.postimg.cc/pXdJqw3m/0-C59-D858-A1-B1-404-E-BAAC-A14-BCDD0-C822.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4nrc3SfG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/htzbq9Dg/261-D829-B-6-A9-F-49-A8-8-CDF-9-CAA56-C0-F45-A.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/68KGr441)
As you can see from the pictures. After removing the tape, the check engine was on!!
Codes are the same as when I first bought it. P0300 - 0304.
Also when the plugs where changed, the plug in cylinder 1 was badly corroded and it looked liked water had got inside.
This led me to wonder if it was the head gasket. So I bought a test kit from Amazon.
If the blue liquid turns yellow, I’m in trouble. And guess what….
(https://i.postimg.cc/KYmP3C7c/083-D6333-4-D7-C-492-D-9-C13-257-DCD17-A7-E6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gxBXfSB1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/fL2fN59z/52-AED3-BA-C1-F2-4632-88-EE-4138-FA1-EEA83.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gXhZyVsQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/266n2vXP/635-D000-C-10-B8-4088-BD34-605-A01-DC3-EB8.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nsysLsxk)
So now the car is going to the mechanics on Monday for a full diagnosis. He says he would be surprised to see a gasket go on one of these engines. But the test I used has good reviews, and it would explain the corroded plug. Plus, why would someone go through all the trouble of covering up the engine light unless it was a big job to fix.
Gutted.
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I've never come across a head gasket going on these, it's super rare. Do you have the infamous generic milky oil cap by any chance?
But yeah, who ever taped that up is a right see you next Tuesday.
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I've never come across a head gasket going on these, it's super rare. Do you have the infamous generic milky oil cap by any chance?
But yeah, who ever taped that up is a right see you next Tuesday.
Nope, no milky oil cap. Though the oil consumption is a lot. I guess I’ll know more once the mechanic does his diagnosis.
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That is really is $hitty news - it may have only blown into a waterway and not got to the oil.
A minor win - at least they only taped over the LED, I have seen older cars where the bulb had been smashed.
Where was it last MOT'd - they are meant to actively check for both CEL and ABS lights coming on with ignition.
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That is really is $hitty news - it may have only blown into a waterway and not got to the oil.
A minor win - at least they only taped over the LED, I have seen older cars where the bulb had been smashed.
Where was it last MOT'd - they are meant to actively check for both CEL and ABS lights coming on with ignition.
Yeah it sucks. I’m based in Northern Ireland. Our MOT is different than the rest of the UK, it’s the government who MOT our cars so there’s no way it slipped through. Although I’m not 100% sure if a check engine is a failure or not? But the car was MOT’d just before I bought it.
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Christ on a bike… as if they taped over the check engine light?!
How big a job is it to get the clocks out? You’ve got me worried now as I had a 1840(I think) code the other day which supposed to bring up the CEL but didn’t on mine…!
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I've seen the exact same thing on a mk4 someone I knew bought from a trader.
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Ok so apparently it’s definitely not a head gasket.
Mechanic isn’t 100% sure but he thinks it’s an ECU issue. Also he noticed that the car backfires loads when you rev to 3500 rpm, only at stand still, not when driving. The whole car shakes when it’s backfiring!
I phoned Autotune, they assure me it’s not the map and if it was the ECU they would of spotted it. Though I’ve gone ahead and bought another ECU to try, and it’s booked into Autotune again on Tuesday so they can have a look to see if it is the map. Though I’m pretty sure the problem was there before the map, hence the cover-up job.
Anyone any ideas?
(https://i.postimg.cc/FFM5yD5x/5-B8-F2-AC2-257-B-470-F-A44-B-85-A06-A5-C2617.png) (https://postimg.cc/t7NMydg1)
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Are you losing coolant? White smoke from the exhaust?
You need to try and figure out where the exhaust gasses are getting into the cooling system first.
It could be a sensor issue if the misfire counter is just rocketing up.
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Result!!
It was the ECU! Autotune transferred the map onto the new ECU and no more engine light.
The car is driving better as well. No more stutter, and before it was pooping and banging a lot. I thought it was the map but it’s doing it far less now.
:happy2:
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Phew, that’s good news!
No more combustion gases in the coolant then either?
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Phew, that’s good news!
No more combustion gases in the coolant then either?
Yeah the Amazon Gasket test is bugging me. Though the mechanic said he tested the coolant and it was fine. And since there’s now no symptoms of a problem with the gasket I have to hope it was just a false positive.
There’s loads of the blue liquid left. I might use the test kit again and maybe check a couple of other cars to see if they get negative results.
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happy to hear that now is working fine! Congratulations for the investigation + conlcusions!
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That is good news - but how does that explain the head gasket tester going yellow?
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I took the Golf to a track day last Sunday at Kirkistown, which went ok. I had fun but the car wasn’t without its issues, even though I was taking it reasonably easy.
The clutch is doing this thing where it sticks halfway when coming up, only on right hand turns. Which isn’t great for a clockwise circuit. I know what the issue is, I think.
The output shaft in these gearboxes start to get play in them. There is a shim kit which can take the play out. I’ve tried fitting the kit but there isn’t enough play in the shaft to fit the shim. So I’ve ordered some skinnier shims to try.
Also the car started to get hot. The needle crept up 3/4 a couple of times. A cool down lap brought it back down again.
Then on the last session I was getting big vibrations on braking. So I’m worried I’ve warped the discs.
Then the biggest problem was discovered today when it had its post track day oil change. 2 random bits of metal were found in the oil.
I honestly have the worst luck with cars! Although maybe tracking a highly tuned car with over 100k miles on the clock wasn’t the greatest idea.
Anyway, the current plan is to just keep driving it, and if the engine does eventually give up. Then go find a used Golf R engine. :grin:
(https://i.postimg.cc/wTHXRp4H/71-E34-BBC-F472-4-E42-9181-5-F347-F82-B786.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/G9786Z1S)
(https://i.postimg.cc/c4Nm7YHp/E9-C4-A999-5-CD2-4-C76-9879-105-B1-AF2998-C.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3WnmYk21)
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What colour/size are the metal bits? You're not the only one with bad luck :grin: They do keep soldiering on regardless though :happy2:
There's a company on Facebook that does turn-key MK7 R engine conversions, otherwise it'll have to be a Golf 6 R/ED35/Scirocco R/S3 engine for easier compatibility.
If you can't get standard issue shims in the gearbox, it doesn't need shimming. You can't take up all the slack unfortunately as VW used plain roller bearings + circlip instead of the more usual taper bearings for some bizarre reason :stupid: Another cause of a sticky clutch pedal is crank walk, but hopefully it's just the gearbox, or master/slave cylinders on their way out. Could even just need a bleed, or the friction disc is binding on the input shaft.
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What colour/size are the metal bits? You're not the only one with bad luck :grin: They do keep soldiering on regardless though :happy2:
There's a company on Facebook that does turn-key MK7 R engine conversions, otherwise it'll have to be a Golf 6 R/ED35/Scirocco R/S3 engine for easier compatibility.
If you can't get standard issue shims in the gearbox, it doesn't need shimming. You can't take up all the slack unfortunately as VW used plain roller bearings + circlip instead of the more usual taper bearings for some bizarre reason :stupid: Another cause of a sticky clutch pedal is crank walk, but hopefully it's just the gearbox, or master/slave cylinders on their way out. Could even just need a bleed, or the friction disc is binding on the input shaft.
Crank walk? I have no idea what that is but it can’t be good! The cars got a brand new clutch, flywheel, master and slave cylinder. The gear changes aren’t the smoothest and on the track day, I struggled to get into 4th gear a couple of times.
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Ok, did a bit of Googling. Crankwalk might be a reality. And those bits of metal might be the left over of a thrust bearing.
If it is “crankwalk”, is it fixable or game over?
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I've been frustrated with the issues my recent track day has brought up but fairplay you definitely win with clumps of metal in the oil pan!
Someone may know better but my understanding when you have crank walk it's either a rebuild or expensive enough repair you may as well do a rebuild while you're there.
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I've been frustrated with the issues my recent track day has brought up but fairplay you definitely win with clumps of metal in the oil pan!
Someone may know better but my understanding when you have crank walk it's either a rebuild or expensive enough repair you may as well do a rebuild while you're there.
Thanks. I think the plan is no more track days until I get it fixed. I have a GR Yaris coming in August/September time. So hopefully the Golf can stay alive until it gets here. Then I’ll put it in storage until I can afford the rebuild or replacement engine.
Unfortunately there’s no decent specialist over here in Northern Ireland. So I think Decimal Tenths in Newcastle might be the place to take it to. It’s only a 3 drive from Stranraer. And after watching their you tube channel, they seem to know what their doing.
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Usually you just need a new thrust bearing if it is indeed the problem. It is unfortunately an engine out job (unless they fancy dropping the crank in situ), so it might make more sense to put a better engine back in! Out with the old, in with the new :grin:
I think I win the woes competition with 120psi compression readings across all 4. Should be 175-200! Well I suppose it is at least consistently sh1t across the whole bank :grin:
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Usually you just need a new thrust bearing if it is indeed the problem. It is unfortunately an engine out job (unless they fancy dropping the crank in situ), so it might make more sense to put a better engine back in! Out with the old, in with the new :grin:
I think I win the woes competition with 120psi compression readings across all 4. Should be 175-200! Well I suppose it is at least consistently sh1t across the whole bank :grin:
I agree that a new improved engine would be great, but it’s gonna be expensive to buy, plus you don’t know what you’re getting. It might come with a bunch of new issues. I’ve also spent serious money on the engine already, I wouldn’t have to worry about swapping the parts over or replacing them if they don’t fit. (Depending on what engine I went for).
I’ll try the new skinnier shims when they arrive, I might as well since their on the way.
And if they don’t fix the gear change and clutch issue (I’m pretty sure they won’t now) then I’ll come up with a game plan.
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Yup. A K04 'long block' (no turbo or ancillaries) engine from VW/TPS is about £4K, and I imagine the K03 GTI engine will be around the same. At least buying new from the manufacturer guarantees a successful install and life span, unlike a lot of rebuilds or used engines.
So if you replace the turbo, clutch, flywheel, injectors etc at the same time, you're in for £6-7K to do it properly. Hence why so many GTIs end up in the bin when their original engines let go.
That kind of money opens up the doors to newer, more powerful engines, but with the wiring and other compatibility hurdles to overcome, you're in for the same amount, or more!
It's a tricky one!
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If mine went first thing I'd do is probably call a nationally known specialist like decimal tenths or aks tuning as they may have something on a shelf to go and you know it would be checked over thoroughly not some junk that a breaker might try to flog. Also any race teams that's specialise in tfsi powered cars as they will should have something spare ready to go if one of theirs or their customers tfsi engine dies on or near a race weekend so they don't miss out on the races, TRS, Retro Resus and Jabba sport are a few, again they won't want junk they'll make sure it's good and able to take abuse.
If not I imagine they'll known someone or would source one and send it over on a pallet for a reasonable fee.
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VAG Technic and REPerformance are worth a shout as well. The latter built a 1000hp engine for EcoTune's 8 second RS3 drag car :happy2: I think that engine has had over 600 dyno pulls and done countless 1/4 miles, and it's still in one piece :surprised:
The trouble with modern VAG engines is once they come apart, unless everything is spotless and within tolerance, they're pretty much junk. Hence why I would only get a crate motor from VW if I was to do a replacement, rather than repairing the original one. The only time I would entertain a rebuild is if it was a 'built' (or fully forged as the kids say) motor from the aforementioned specialists, as all the pistons, rods etc are uprated anyway.
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Thanks guys for the advice. I think a new engine is too much of an investment. A new engine is a good bit more than I paid for the car!
How much do think an engine rebuild from one of the top guys would cost? And worst case scenario, imagine my engine is in bad shape.
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Holy metal crumbs batman, I've just seen the carnage pics. They look suspiciously like the thrust bearing remains we were talking about to me, which might explain the gear engagement issues, aka, crank walk.
The thrust bearing on these engines is a terrible design, basically only half a bearing compared to the usual standard. I pity the later EA113 engines with the clutch down to start the engine nonsense. No oil pressure on the bearing whilst cranking.....what the frick were VW thinking :stupid:
As for a rebuild/new engine. I doubt the cylinders or top end have suffered, you probably just need a new thrust bearing, which is like 40 quid, but the labour to replace it is 4 figures. Engine out job.
Golf GTIs were never meant to do track work. Too much oil surge in the corners and not enough preventative measures to safeguard the engine against it. Later Golfs, MK7 and on, are even worse for it. Clouds of blue smoke on track days due to oil surge having nowhere to go but up through the PCV or blowing out the rear crank seal.
I admire you chaps who track GTIs but honestly, I would stick the GTI to road duties only and buy a second car for track work, something designed for it like a Caterham.
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Holy metal crumbs batman, I've just seen the carnage pics. They look suspiciously like the thrust bearing remains we were talking about to me, which might explain the gear engagement issues, aka, crank walk.
The thrust bearing on these engines is a terrible design, basically only half a bearing compared to the usual standard. I pity the later EA113 engines with the clutch down to start the engine nonsense. No oil pressure on the bearing whilst cranking.....what the frick were VW thinking :stupid:
As for a rebuild/new engine. I doubt the cylinders or top end have suffered, you probably just need a new thrust bearing, which is like 40 quid, but the labour to replace it is 4 figures. Engine out job.
Golf GTIs were never meant to do track work. Too much oil surge in the corners and not enough preventative measures to safeguard the engine against it. Later Golfs, MK7 and on, are even worse for it. Clouds of blue smoke on track days due to oil surge having nowhere to go but up through the PCV or blowing out the rear crank seal.
I admire you chaps who track GTIs but honestly, I would stick the GTI to road duties only and buy a second car for track work, something designed for it like a Caterham.
That’s experiencie taking.
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Bit of an update on the Golf.
I took it over to Decimal Tenths in Newcastle upon Tyne to have the engine properly diagnosed and hopefully rebuilt. I've been watching Nicks Youtube channel for a while and I was confident it would be worth getting the ferry over for.
Hopped on the 7.30am ferry and was in Newcastle by 1pm. Nick gave me a lift into the city centre, I grabbed some food, had a walkabout then got the Metro to the airport. It was all very easy.
Unfortunately by Thursday the diagnosis was complete and I got the bad news. The first sentence in the message didn't full me with much confidence;
"Every now and then a car comes in and when we look inside, we are shocked that it was even running." :tired_face::joy:
So basically the crank walk is as bad as it gets. There's no thrust washers left at all, the crank has been grinding against the main cap. The flywheel has been grinding against the sump. The crank is moving side to side a good 10mm! The balance shaft has seized solid and sprocket that drives it has completely sheared off. The engine is officially scrap.
I managed to find a used engine for a good price from a breakers yard in Nottingham. It's from a Golf that's been written off from a side impact, and it's only got 85k miles on it. Fingers crossed its a good one. (Can't be any worse than the ship anchor currently in it)
So the plan now is for Decimal Tenths to totally go through this new engine. Carbon clean it, new cam chain, balance shaft delete and new upgraded thrust washers so this doesn't happen again. Its very likely that my performance clutch is what's destroyed the thrust washers, so upgraded ones from Pro-Race Engineering are a must!
Then they'll have to swap all my K04 kit over, and all the new shiny bits I've added to my old engine along the way. It will then need to go onto their Dyno for another remap. Well that's the plan so far. Fingers crossed there's no more nasty surprises.
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Ouch! :surprised:
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Hmmmm, and that's why I would steer people away from uprated clutches.
I've had pedal to floor because of them twice now, leaving me stuck in heavy traffic to push it off the road. First time the delay valve burst, and second time the bleeder block blew. All because of the ridiculous spring rates of the aftermarket pressure plates.
Crank thrust bearing destruction is the worst case scenario but what can help reduce the risk of that happening is:
Not cranking the engine over with the clutch down.
Not holding the car in traffic with the clutch down.
Regular oil changes.
Try and avoid heavy traffic, if you can.
My advice is stick to stage 1 with a fresh stock clutch. If you want max power and torque, stick to the DSG cars.
The thrust washers in this engine are lame anyway, and this issue can happen on standard engines as well.
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Glad to see you have kept your patience with the Golf.
I watch the Decimal tenths YT vids as well -that's quite a mission to get over to Newcastle from NI -what are the guys like to deal with?
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Glad to see you have kept your patience with the Golf.
I watch the Decimal tenths YT vids as well -that's quite a mission to get over to Newcastle from NI -what are the guys like to deal with?
So far, so good. I'll give an update once I pick the car up and put it through it paces.
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Wow, that is lots of broken things.
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I picked up the car from Decimal Tenths at the end of January. One of the guys picked me up from the airport in my Golf, quick run to their workshop to go through everything that was done, including photos etc and I was on my way.
The replacement engine got the full treatment, heres a list of everything;
New timing Belt
New water pump
New cam chain
New cam chain tensioner
New VVT rings
New VVT gasket
New rocker cover gasket
New cam bolts and follower
New thermostat
New oil pickup and seal
New rear main oil seal
Pro-race thrust bearing upgrade
Walnut blasting carbon clean
Injector test
VIS balance shaft delete
Sump clean
New fuel filter
Air-con re-gas
New S3 LUK DMF and bolts
Slave cylinder
Audi TTRS low pressure fuel pump
New air-con radiator
Darkside short shifter kit fitted
Every upgrade from old engine and full K04 kit fitted
Stage 2 Dyno remap
The remap they put on the car was a bit different from the old remap from Autotune. The new one is 373bhp and 378ft/lb. The biggest difference is the midrange. It feels like its always on full boost and actually takes a bit of getting used to in order to drive smoothly. It's easy to spin the wheels in 3rd gear 😂. It's gonna be great once it's on the track.
(https://i.postimg.cc/h4zbdyB2/12-C4-C08-C-0-C2-E-4313-B93-F-5-B32-ADBA05-DB.png) (https://postimages.org/)
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I bought a set of S3 wheels from someone local for track days. On the one and only track day last year I managed to buckle 2 PS4 tyres (didn't even know that was a thing). I don't fancy doing that everytime, so a seperate set of wheels made sense. They came with 2 Pirelli's and 2 budget tyres, I plan to do 1 or 2 track days on these and then upgrade to a set of Toyo r888r's once they're done.
I also had some brake wobble and a knock coming from the front left of the car. Turns out the new Vagbremtechnic front discs had warped after one track day. So I got a new set of EBC discs which feel so much better.
A new set upgraded ECS top mounts have also been fitted when trying to fix the knock. They definitely make the ride a bit better.
(https://i.postimg.cc/R0ghhR89/2177-CD49-49-A5-4715-9-B45-24-F4349-F3-D37.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/bG2pFQpF)
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Last week I've had the traction control, ABS and handbrake warning lights coming on. Codes indicate a faulty ABS pump. I managed to get a used one from a bloke on Facebook marketplace for £50. VAG World quoted me £450 plus delivery. 😂
I won't get it fitted for a couple of weeks though, as the cars going off to finally going to get the rust sorted this week. It's going to a local body repair shop that I've never used before, so fingers crossed they do a good job and the Golf will finally look as good as it drives!
(https://i.postimg.cc/PqSzm0JR/9-B0-DC953-0-C44-4370-9811-19-BEE4766912.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/94q728Gd)
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Buckled tyres? Do you mean buckled wheels? Not heard of buckled tyres yet :surprised:
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Buckled tyres? Do you mean buckled wheels? Not heard of buckled tyres yet :surprised:
Yeah, it’s also called being “out of round” tyres, apparently 2 of my tyres were egg shaped. 😂
I think it was from the tyres getting really hot on the track and me lowering the PSI on them like I would with track day tyres.
I locked up a couple of times on the track day so I thought I had flat spots. When driving slowly on a really smooth road you could hear the tyres juddering. I went to have them replaced anyway and the tyre fitter told me it was because of 2 buckled tyres.
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Ah makes sense if there were some flat spots! Not been able to lock up mine... with stickier tyres I find the tyres can "under rotate" which helps braking anyway but anymore than that and abs comes in