Post by: Matto on August 22, 2012, 06:15:04 pm
Tools Required – Torx T20, Torx T30, Small Flathead Screwdriver, M6 12-point spline bit, bit holder and ratchet.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FCLgJFXl.jpg&hash=cc0973325a02f658d640e200a602171d7964d2d7)
Time taken – Will probably take 1hr 30mins on your first go.
Before you start make sure you have a new lock module to fit. Either brand new from the dealers which will set you back over £100 or they can be picked up off eBay for around £30 but you run the risk of buying another dud.
This guide is to show you how to change the door lock module on a MK5 Golf. This method can be used for both front and rear doors and is presuming you can also get the door open which you will need to do. If like mine did the first time and the door has deadlocked shut, you best hope and pray some firm banging and a bit of luck are on your side.
If this is the case, I wound the window down and gave the outer door skin a few firm bangs with the bottom of my fist in the area where the module is. After this I repeatedly pressed the unlock button on the key whilst pulling the interior handle. After about 10 mins of different combinations of banging, pulling and unlocking the door opened. When doing this you will find that at some point when pressing unlock on the key fob it will stop working. I think the motors have a thermal trip but this will automatically reset after a minute or so and you can carry on.
Now it’s open DO NOT CLOSE IT AGAIN!!
Start by removing the black rubber strip down the edge of the door. This is held on by small plastic clips. Pull gently starting from the top working your way down. It may leave a couple in the door which you need to remove and then refit to the strip.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FesVQ5Fl.jpg&hash=994737e925842a11916c8fc9bed7d58adea1a8f2)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FJIcOj0V.jpg&hash=ef317ec8f76dd04f93a47580612278613817a0cc)
Clips refitted.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2F20tHMOX.jpg&hash=f3116b34c995faff662e44b52e12f5e1eaf03978)
Behind this you will see a circular piece of silver or clear tape which is covering a hole. Remove this and inside you will see a torx head bolt. Using a T20 torx bit, loosen as far as it will go. It won’t fall out.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FBzsPSbl.jpg&hash=4d372460253829d1da9bcfab25ca571c0528a98d)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2Fz4RFIwW.jpg&hash=8da2d8792b147f8ff687d398ed75b7c063d87fb5)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2F8HTPBhf.jpg&hash=ad4e53df34aa802fcc28479c7ebd1df9e0deed27)
With this done, pull the door handle and the lock barrel/blank should pull from the door.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FWKOtGNm.jpg&hash=3deeb64c72e5f3c85e3db67427c8c462e83b23a3)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FkXENwmp.jpg&hash=d03b2e4ad3ce3eadec7b6fdf81bb970e38323afd)
Look into the handle and you will see a small black clip attached to the end of a cable. Note its position within the handle I.E how many grooves are showing then flick out with a small flat screwdriver.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FEUtfWOj.jpg&hash=8c8fbdc7f8bb88e2d46b8c99adddad61f950e99d)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FHvfI76f.jpg&hash=44e65e59437a8f085adfb661b887a122db8f97cf)
Once the cable is free, pull the door handle sideways into the space wear the lock barrel/blank was and then remove by pulling away from the door. The front end of the handle should feed through the door skin.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FlN19yW7.jpg&hash=f123f2ad59d846cff64416ac125e9f3a446896fa)
Undo the Torx screw (T20) that was behind the handle.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FMo9aAJA.jpg&hash=7bd46bec2e2de4be41f48b11eaa6b0e9aa3d847f)
Now start undoing the retaining bolts (T30) that hold the door skin on. Lay them out so you know where they came from as they are not all the same. Same are smaller than others and some have a thick washer on them.
There are some down both sides and underneath. Also if doing the rear doors there is one hiding behind the rubber gaiter that the cables go through.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FIrxkkgS.jpg&hash=4e162b1daa0e62b3f1a95fbd37e15a4be5ab5eaf)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FIkL45vw.jpg&hash=bd99c3636a63769dcd638fa766e1ea42673792e4)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2F7rVRqaM.jpg&hash=9bf02816ba434af28632b90fed11822b1fe83dde)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FxE2DWqr.jpg&hash=8655117414fc2c5e3ff37c3adc3e110999bb66d8)
Screws laid out. Starting from left to right - Outside of door, underneath and inside of door. You can see the differences between them.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FdojG4js.jpg&hash=69dc6485699c6bd791fea0640b3c7295813a7689)
Once all the bolts are removed you can now remove the skin. It shouldn’t fall off but I leave one bolt in until I know I have got a good grip on it then remove it just in case. If doing the rear doors, opening the front give you a bit more room. Once the skin is off, lay it down or stand it against something so that you won’t scratch the paint. And yes I know its filty :signLOL:
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FyQVedr0.jpg&hash=ce00e010affc705cbf06cbf409f2478f0b601399)
You should now be able to see inside the door. The next thing that needs to be removed is this contraption.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FSZPeZLn.jpg&hash=eaee4ef76a4f7480ab9652ce1ccd0b88f253187e)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FjEn2PzX.jpg&hash=a64b58cb54ecfe452fdd072468386b4ed7a64589)
It fits into the slots top and bottom and held by a small coloured elastic band.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2F3xqUgvT.jpg&hash=0ed1a7d08747bed754028bb21024c59dc0c6f96f)
Make sure that the mechanism is in the position shown before refitting.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2F5YfaBLO.jpg&hash=c06550dc630d6aa64ba19b4b747c97ec38cca301)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2F0Ioq7XV.jpg&hash=9b0cbb4109886320ed8fdf5ba3ff129f3f974000)
You can now start to remove the mechanism. I prise off the white cover first but I don’t think it is necessary but gives you a bit more room. Do this with the window up. Undo the 2 M6 12-point spline bolts which hold the module to the door. Release the module by pulling up slightly. There is a small metal tab that sticks out which it hangs on.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FB4db7HS.jpg&hash=65503297d6ffcf30c7db83609995a7b7969bd00d)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2F7TxALr0.jpg&hash=a6a6a94d59ef04cc572a352761794da61a7df185)
View of the metal tab.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2F8pje7my.jpg&hash=14e643cc81bdd46dd1cc6779f1805f63c458c9e9)
Turn the module round so you can see the back. Disconnect the electrical plug. Then push the lever on the lock mechanism which will give you some slack on the cable and release the lug.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FOFHbThT.jpg&hash=161fc7c0d6a823e2b1a23be1f48a86d5d00fb66f)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FliAaNhw.jpg&hash=55433266fbbfab84b9c08e7490c71a7d4c76e9a0)
You should now have the lock module free.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FtgFadEZ.jpg&hash=f261721fb805f5c4286a46588a6654f5b331c2db)
With the new one you may need to transfer over the small cable which fastens into the door handle. This is done by pulling the mechanism forward and then twisting the black plastic bit 90 degrees. You should see it has a flat on it, allowing it to slide out.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FqGe6zKL.jpg&hash=9ad7aedc2aa6a332a536805f0670d6599bff1803)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FPeCU21W.jpg&hash=e384b51637ce7e45893c8ea7bfc8a0c5ea68bc85)
As the old saying goes, refitting is the reverse of removal. When screwing in the T20 screw through the hole, as you do it, it will probably bang. This is the mechanism taking up the slack on the cable and is normal.
TIPS:
Fit the module and try opening, closing and locking with the window down and door skin off. Will save you time having to take it all apart again if it does not work. It doesn't matter if the handle is not connected. You can just pull the little cable.
When fastening up the bolts for the new lock module, all I do is line up the heads where they originally left marks in the paint. This should make sure it’s roughly back in the same place.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2Fr5ZHqV8.jpg&hash=a3a4d8f0b08d8ba3dfc43a792f1ceddd75daa79d)
The new lock module should not need recoding with VCDS unless you have door exit warning lights or illuminated door triggers fitted.
Hope this helps a few of you out as I know this is quite common.
Mods - Might be worth making this a sticky :happy2:
Post by: holepunch on August 22, 2012, 06:48:07 pm
Post by: galaxie500 on August 22, 2012, 07:12:41 pm
Brillant write up and really well annotated.
Now can anyone do one to illustrate rear window change - tinted to privacy glass?!
Matto, you've set the standard with this 'How To'. Perhaps Haynes is looking for a staff writer!
PR
Post by: stealthwolf on August 22, 2012, 07:54:16 pm
Are the lock modules same for front and rear?
Post by: SI-R32 on August 22, 2012, 08:10:00 pm
Glad its all working OK now.
Post by: Matto on August 22, 2012, 08:17:39 pm
Stealth - I believe the front and rears are different. I can have a look at ETKA later and then add the part numbers to the write up :happy2:
Post by: vRSAlex on August 23, 2012, 04:04:36 pm
You're a star! :pomppomp:
Are the lock modules same for front and rear?
You can do yours yourself now Jaz!!! :evilgrin:
Post by: stealthwolf on August 23, 2012, 09:54:07 pm
You can do yours yourself now Jaz!!! :evilgrin::surprised:
Still need someone to sort my brakes out. :P
Post by: chowgar on November 11, 2012, 04:51:21 pm
I did remove the other screws hoping that I could get a bit of space to get behind and somehow loosen but with no luck. I haven't removed any of the interior cards to see if I can get at it that way.... Does anyone have any suggestions?
Many thanks in advance
Tim
Post by: stealthwolf on December 04, 2012, 09:12:16 pm
A couple of things need to be mentioned:
- you really do need to remove the plastic white cover
- the "contraption" thing that's held in by a rubber band has been revised. My original one had a break in the plastic bit in the middle somewhere. On the revised version, this has been reinforced
- if you have to replace the "contraption", you either need a new lock barrel cover thing, or you need to nick a metal C-shaped collar from the old contraption and swap it over.
I'm sure Alex will post up anything I've missed but this took something like 3-4 hours to do because of trial and error of finding out what the problem was at each stage.
Post by: Matto on December 04, 2012, 11:02:17 pm
Post by: chowgar on April 14, 2013, 09:04:37 pm
Couldnt get the barrel lock out.... lost the M6 spline (after taking everthing apart) went to motor mart for a replacement twice as I left my wallet at home... several bits were a pain in the a$$ but replaced the offending item and all seems to be good....
thanks for the advice...
Post by: monte on November 05, 2013, 12:36:31 am
Post by: RedRobin on November 08, 2013, 04:18:40 pm
You couldn't wish for a better How To :happy2: :notworthy:
Post by: Matto on November 08, 2013, 05:19:03 pm
Just seen this Matt. Great How-to. Thanks for your time and effort buddy :congrats: :notworthy:
You couldn't wish for a better How To :happy2: :notworthy:
Thanks a lot. This wasn't actually when I changed the lock unit. I did that the day before then kicked myself that I didn't take the opportunity to take photos. So thought I'd do the job again as I knew I could do it in around an hour and made sure I got photos just so I could put the guide together :happy2:
Post by: kippers_cracks on November 17, 2013, 02:05:44 pm
secondly totally peeved off:
purchased a new lock module for the rear passenger door ( right hand drive car) from flea bay fitted it and all seemed well for one day.
literally was chuffed as i had done it myself.
I then locked the doors leaving the car as usual using the remote and noticed the lock light had not come on. i thought here we go remove the lock and send it back to poland!
i was wrong as i checked the door and it was locked as it should have been. Unlocked and locked again and no locking light as before. Starting from the drivers door checked them all until i got to the front passenger door ( last ). it was unlocked opened an on came the alarm.
Exactly the same fault that i had with the rear passenger door :scared: :scared:
This seems like too much of a coincidence to me ?
have i missed something ?
is there something deeper that has failed and is causing the locks to fail ?
please help !
thanks
Post by: doylebros on November 17, 2013, 05:06:10 pm
When you have VCDS connected you can test each lock and watch it change over to safe mode.
This testing lets you isolate each module or the door wiring.
Post by: kippers_cracks on November 18, 2013, 01:47:06 pm
To do the job correctly you've got to scan it with VCDS - this shows which modules have been failing in the log.
When you have VCDS connected you can test each lock and watch it change over to safe mode.
This testing lets you isolate each module or the door wiring.
hi,
there was no doubt that the rear near side was failing as the door was not locking for a couple of weeks, i checked lots of times.
I suppose the front passenger door could also have been playing up as i never checked that one :)
its funny because both are now working as i am getting the locked signal flash again when leaving the car ( and checking all doors are locked ).
not sue if they are both connected but if the front passenger door starts playing up i will change that one too.
Does anyone know someone that has a VCDS unit in the bromsgrove / worcester area that they could plug in and see the error codes ?
thanks again
Post by: doylebros on November 18, 2013, 05:47:12 pm
http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,120.0.html
Post by: Spooky1 on November 22, 2013, 02:17:24 pm
Post by: Leigh200sx on November 24, 2013, 07:45:17 am
Post by: Degudodger on December 29, 2013, 06:32:31 pm
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi184.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fx211%2Fdegudodger%2FMobile%2520Uploads%2Fdcfbff18-e91b-4c62-9f36-a3c5b4b81643_zps4c50dd69.jpg&hash=df535525cf452cf822601b687cffb88f4f2db7e4)
Any thoughts as to which size i need?
Post by: Matto on December 29, 2013, 10:35:09 pm
Post by: Degudodger on January 11, 2014, 03:41:04 pm
Turned out it was a T20 just me being a dumbass and not noticing :ashamed:
I removed the lock barrel but failed to remove the door handle so as i limited time i gave up and refitted the lock barrel. However the barrel will not secure in place, i think the retaining ring (circled in red) is either broken or has come away from the main mechanism meaning the lock barrel can easily be removed.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fdegudodger%2FMisc%2Fb6d92c28-8f7a-4647-91d2-f75ea66651e8_zps5a159268.jpg&hash=3da9dcb53ff39ab77513de415e259d620ae7f153)
I could really do with some help, i'm sure i can fix the barrel but need to remove the door skin first which i can't do until i figure out how to remove the door handle :(
Post by: doylebros on January 11, 2014, 06:22:48 pm
Post by: Degudodger on January 11, 2014, 10:21:47 pm
Undo lock pull, pull the handle as far as i can then pull towards the rear of the car?
What really boils my onions is i have stripped so many god damn doors in the past yet this one is beating me!
Post by: Degudodger on January 11, 2014, 10:24:20 pm
If all else fails remove the door card then window regulator to gain access to the offending item.
Hi John,
Unfortunately i need to remove the door skin as i think they may be a break in the door loom causing issue with my door lock. :(
Post by: doylebros on January 11, 2014, 10:52:59 pm
Right. Just so i'm not missing anything am i doing it right when i try and remove the door handle.
Undo lock pull, pull the handle as far as i can then pull towards the rear of the car?
What really boils my onions is i have stripped so many god damn doors in the past yet this one is beating me!
That's the same technique I've used, although you've got to get the angle right as you pull the handle towards you, before pulling it back towards the rear of the vehicle whilst wiggling it free as the end is hooked.
Just like many items they take a bit wiggling!
Look at the hassle he had removing the lock barrel
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sPmKY7k-Ths
You'll sort it tomorrow I'm sure.
Post by: Matto on January 12, 2014, 11:56:19 am
Post by: Degudodger on January 12, 2014, 12:37:22 pm
I really to find somewhere dry. I have a garage but its just not wide enough.
Post by: Matto on January 12, 2014, 12:46:11 pm
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2FMatt.H%2FInternet%2FIMAG1212_zps7b4dd13b.jpg&hash=9e44ed002ae10ad9a3b2c0e8c2ca97ec9a610c3e)
Post by: Degudodger on January 12, 2014, 12:48:50 pm
Post by: xonk on March 24, 2014, 08:30:56 pm
Post by: Jonnyboy on November 17, 2014, 09:54:50 pm
Post by: pjuster on December 13, 2014, 01:38:15 pm
Thanks for sharing
Post by: lukemk5gti on December 13, 2014, 06:45:43 pm
As in when I pull the handle nothing happens but when I release and open again it then opens so obviously something mechanical is not engaging. It's not an electrical fault.
Anybody any thoughts?
I've taken the inside trim off 4 times now and will break it if I have to do it again!
Post by: doylebros on December 13, 2014, 07:09:50 pm
Post by: lukemk5gti on December 18, 2014, 01:34:26 pm
Just take the external handle cover back off and try operating it again from the short wire whilst disconnected from the external handle,if it works first time from pulling the wire recheck your adjustment when connecting it to the external handle?
I tried this in a few different positions with no luck. Any other thoughts?
Post by: Jonnyboy on December 27, 2014, 01:59:45 pm
Post by: lukemk5gti on January 05, 2015, 12:53:53 pm
Just take the external handle cover back off and try operating it again from the short wire whilst disconnected from the external handle,if it works first time from pulling the wire recheck your adjustment when connecting it to the external handle?
I tried this in a few different positions with no luck. Any other thoughts?
I retract my initial statement. I had only pulled the wire more toward me notch by notch with no success as I was putting it back in the same position as it was originally.
I moved the wire backwards from it's original position and now it's working fine! Thanks for the advice!
Post by: mattp244 on February 03, 2015, 07:24:24 pm
Sorry to bump the thread but today I tried to replace the rear passenger door lock module on my Golf, however, after undoing the T20 bolt for the Locking Cylinder in the door (mines a blank) the actual Cylinder will not budge at all!
Is there anyway I can get it removed? or will I have to try and force it out?
Post by: doylebros on February 03, 2015, 07:55:04 pm
Hi Guys,
Sorry to bump the thread but today I tried to replace the rear passenger door lock module on my Golf, however, after undoing the T20 bolt for the Locking Cylinder in the door (mines a blank) the actual Cylinder will not budge at all!
Is there anyway I can get it removed? or will I have to try and force it out?
So you actual removed the T20 bolt not slackened it?
Post by: mattp244 on February 03, 2015, 09:46:26 pm
Hi Guys,
Sorry to bump the thread but today I tried to replace the rear passenger door lock module on my Golf, however, after undoing the T20 bolt for the Locking Cylinder in the door (mines a blank) the actual Cylinder will not budge at all!
Is there anyway I can get it removed? or will I have to try and force it out?
So you actual removed the T20 bolt not slackened it?
Yeah, it came out, the cylinder was not really loosening as I undid it though, I did manage to get the bolt back in, but the cylinder doesn't loosen, If I have busted it is there anyway of getting it out?
Post by: doylebros on February 03, 2015, 09:59:49 pm
When you go back too it loosen the bolt five full turns and wiggle the blank whistle loosening the bolt a bit further each time and you may realign the ring to allow the barrel removal!
When it's apart you'll see what I mean - just reassemble before reinstalling after the lock module replacement.
Post by: mattp244 on February 06, 2015, 02:29:59 pm
My guess is that I've somehow damaged the mechanism that secures it in place when the bolt came out initially.
So frustrating as the rest of the job looks so straight forward and saves a massive amount of money!
Post by: doylebros on February 06, 2015, 04:44:13 pm
Post by: mattp244 on February 06, 2015, 05:34:18 pm
Post by: doylebros on February 06, 2015, 05:39:19 pm
Post by: Swampy on March 01, 2015, 11:39:07 am
thanks :jumpmove:
Post by: StGiles on June 27, 2015, 10:39:53 pm
Stealers wanted £145 for the lock + £100 to fit, after reading your guide I decided to go eBay for £30 and 2hrs of my time on a Saturday morning.
The only problem I had was during the re-fit, securing the door handle key/blank barrel was proving difficult. After tightening the lock handle carrier retaining screw the key/blank barrel was loose and would just pull out. Each time the beveled metal piece on the handle carrier kept falling off. It seemed the closed (i.e. normal positioned) door handle was pushing the beveled piece off the carrier before I could tighten the retaining screw. After putting on/taking off the skin 4 times to get the beveled piece back in place it very slowly dawned on me that you need to pull & hold the door handle lever (in the door opening position) and hold the key/blank barrel firmly with your thumb whilst tightening up the retaining screw. The new lock is working just fine and I hope this makes sense! :rolleye:
Post by: D3mon_Hunt3r on July 02, 2015, 11:34:37 pm
Recently has been acting up a lot more, to the point i can't open it unless i loose 3 minutes attempting to lock/unlock...
Post by: LukeTabasco on August 14, 2015, 06:35:13 pm
Post by: Carl_GTD on August 18, 2015, 10:43:50 pm
This guide is perfect for changing the lock but does anyone have a way of getting the door to unlock. I've tried hitting the door and spent about an hour pressing the unlock buttons whilst pulling the door handle (both inside and outside) any help would be greatly appreciate
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: waj27 on August 20, 2015, 12:31:24 pm
Post by: BlackRabbit on August 28, 2015, 05:57:54 pm
Post by: manc01 on October 03, 2015, 11:15:07 pm
Post by: slim08 on December 30, 2015, 04:38:07 pm
Matto, I owe you big time. What bloody incredible guide! I'm no mechanic, but I always do my own repairs - I couldn't have replaced this part so quickly and efficiently without your help. I really enjoyable job this was, and really satisfying to finally have the problem solved.
Fitted the new lock to my passenger side... now I need to find a new lock for the drivers side! Same problem.
Thanks again
Post by: Matto on December 31, 2015, 02:39:34 pm
I've done a lot of reading on the forums, but this is my first post.
Matto, I owe you big time. What bloody incredible guide! I'm no mechanic, but I always do my own repairs - I couldn't have replaced this part so quickly and efficiently without your help. I really enjoyable job this was, and really satisfying to finally have the problem solved.
Fitted the new lock to my passenger side... now I need to find a new lock for the drivers side! Same problem.
Thanks again
No worries and glad it helped you out. I know what you mean about an enjoyable job. As far as repairs on these things go, its one of the less horrible ones :signLOL:
Post by: tlnds on January 04, 2016, 03:05:38 pm
Post by: ALIAHMET on January 04, 2016, 03:53:03 pm
I have to pull the door handle twice for it to open.
I would pay a little extra and go original - I wish I did.
Post by: doylebros on January 04, 2016, 05:07:17 pm
I've fitted plenty and have only one faulty one,which the supplier changed without any questions.
It's not a difficult job but easy to get wrong without using a how to guide.
My advice would be to have it scanned with VCDS and do some output testes to prove its the module and not the door wiring from the pillar.
Post by: tlnds on January 05, 2016, 01:46:12 pm
It's more than a little more - in the region of £100 more.Cheers I'll probably scan it and try to narrow it down first then
I've fitted plenty and have only one faulty one,which the supplier changed without any questions.
It's not a difficult job but easy to get wrong without using a how to guide.
My advice would be to have it scanned with VCDS and do some output testes to prove its the module and not the door wiring from the pillar.
Post by: Berry on January 30, 2016, 08:05:21 pm
Post by: Spooky211 on March 09, 2016, 08:38:32 pm
Also, is there anyone with VCDS in or around Glasgow that would be willing to scan my car for me? Will pay with beers!!
Post by: Spooky211 on March 10, 2016, 11:59:42 am
Post by: Berry on March 10, 2016, 01:46:55 pm
It's best to check and make sure what codes are being thrown but I didn't as all the evidence was pointing to door lock module so risked it. Been spot on ever since.
Post by: Spooky211 on March 10, 2016, 02:28:10 pm
What a pain.....just need to find someone with Vagcom!
Post by: pjuster on March 17, 2016, 03:49:47 pm
my door skin was well and truly stuck near one bolt, yet the bolt was out, I checked and double checked all screws were removed, in the end I put my arm between the glass and door skin and shove it outwards where it was stuck (with one tiny blob of black sealant near one of the screws).
Also as my door skin was "stuck" I thought I would remove the interior door panel to help give me access and see why the panel was stuck, DON'T bother you can't see/access anything from the inside of the door, all it resulted in was me having to buy some interior clips and a screw driver !
my interior mechanism flew apart during the process, so had to order one from VW only £27.99. should be finished tomorrow !
my Chinese OEM door mechanism, from ebay is fully working, vagcom errors have all been cleared and double tested, they have not returned central locking works a treat.
only other tip is as I think someone else posted to fit the blanking plug make sure you pull the handle as thought your opening the door this pulls the mechanism towards the door making the blanking plug connect when tightening the screw. it took me ages to work that out !!
thanks again for sharing.
Post by: Georrge on April 30, 2016, 04:53:37 pm
Post by: r5gtt on April 30, 2016, 08:03:46 pm
Post by: Berry on May 02, 2016, 05:33:05 pm
Post by: DANBOY66 on May 02, 2016, 06:24:58 pm
drivers door unlocks some times if it does not i use the key
drivers rear door wont even open :scared:
any tips on opening a door that wont open ? its clicking away when i press the key but nothing is happening
2 locks have been ordered from ebay
Post by: DaveE on May 06, 2016, 11:03:02 pm
Post by: r5gtt on May 07, 2016, 12:06:43 am
89k for mineThanks for letting me know :smiley:
yeah i have 2 to do on the same car 4 door 90kAgain thanks for letting me know. I also have a four door hatch at 74k so far so will not be looking forward to doing the replacement :signLOL:
drivers door unlocks some times if it does not i use the key
drivers rear door wont even open :scared:
any tips on opening a door that wont open ? its clicking away when i press the key but nothing is happening
2 locks have been ordered from ebay
Post by: DANBOY66 on May 07, 2016, 12:40:10 am
rear door opened after pulling both hanles while pressing the button to unlock it
30 mins each lock to swap quite an easy job :happy2:
Post by: costi88 on May 20, 2016, 03:50:19 pm
A have a similar problem but does not appear evri time .I did a scan with vcds I got error 00470 and 01333 after delete did not pup up again but it's still doesn't work all the time....so I have to check all the time .
Do I need a new one?what does your experience say
Thanks :happy2:
Post by: markt on June 06, 2016, 04:35:28 pm
Post by: costi88 on June 17, 2016, 02:32:23 pm
Post by: Guff on July 26, 2016, 10:17:44 pm
I'm a retired electronics engineer so I was keen to find out the failure mode. I was loathed to replace the module with a second hand one of unknown pedigree and he was loathed to buy a new one. I opened up the module and found that one of the motors was not working unless it was given a gentle push. It then ran fine, but every time it stopped it would not start up again without help. The motors can be removed from the rigid wiring quite easily and the motor can be opened up by bending back the two locking tabs. As I expected, the commutator was in a bad way and one pole was terribly pitted (which probably explains where the motor stopped and why it wouldn't start up again) but there was some useful carbon left on the brushes so I carefully cleaned the poles and put it back together. It now runs fine, but it took me three attempts to get all the mechanical linkages back together. Sorry there are no pictures but there is a guide to taking the module apart on YouTube (but the internals are different as there are two motors):
In my opinion, the motors are cheap and nasty and therein lies the reason for a lot of failures. You may be lucky if you use a second hand one or you may have to replace it sooner than you'd like. It is possible to recondition the motors and restore them to a good working state.
Post by: doylebros on July 27, 2016, 06:34:24 pm
Many thanks to Matto for a comprehensive guide - just wish I'd read it before I took the inner door card off my son-in-law-to-be's car.
I'm a retired electronics engineer so I was keen to find out the failure mode. I was loathed to replace the module with a second hand one of unknown pedigree and he was loathed to buy a new one. I opened up the module and found that one of the motors was not working unless it was given a gentle push. It then ran fine, but every time it stopped it would not start up again without help. The motors can be removed from the rigid wiring quite easily and the motor can be opened up by bending back the two locking tabs. As I expected, the commutator was in a bad way and one pole was terribly pitted (which probably explains where the motor stopped and why it wouldn't start up again) but there was some useful carbon left on the brushes so I carefully cleaned the poles and put it back together. It now runs fine, but it took me three attempts to get all the mechanical linkages back together. Sorry there are no pictures but there is a guide to taking the module apart on YouTube (but the internals are different as there are two motors):
In my opinion, the motors are cheap and nasty and therein lies the reason for a lot of failures. You may be lucky if you use a second hand one or you may have to replace it sooner than you'd like. It is possible to recondition the motors and restore them to a good working state.
Interesting approach but it makes me wonder why not fit one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Right-Driver-Side-Door-Lock-Control-Mechanism-For-VW-Golf-Mk5-2003-2009-/161996465304?hash=item25b7bde498:g:ODEAAOSw9ZdXKY0B
The price makes it worth it just for spares if your that way given.
Post by: m3cca on November 02, 2016, 01:58:29 pm
Things I have learnt from doing it.
Initial trim comes off easily, can be a little tricky in the last step putting it back on, as you need to align the plastic trim pieces to plastic grooves in the door skin I think. If you apply it and it doesn't look like it is sitting flush and aligned with the panel, pull it off again and ensure the the black plastic lips on the trim piece sit under the teeth on the door panel.
Enusre all your bolts are laid out correctly, I used an old egg carton to keep them in order. As they do differ in size and you can possibly damage the door skin or thread if a long bolt is placed in a short thread.
Was initially confused how to remove the door handle, but pulling it away out of the mechanism then out does work. The arrows were a little confusing.
White plastic shroud sitting over the mechanism inside was initially hard to remove, but just pry it out. It does have internal clips which fasten to the mechanism and are tough, so hopefully you can't break them too easily.
Ensure you remember to remove the bits you need from the old mechaniism, and completely agree about testing it out before reassembling the entire door. Once you do have it fitted with the MBit screws to the door, you can close the door or use the central locking to test if everything is working correctly.
Applying the door skin on your own can be tricky, but can be done. Make sure you get the alignment right. There are some black plasic knobs near the screw points to assist in ensuring that the door skin is aligned correctly. Also, test fit all the screws in for alignment first before screwing it down permanently just to ensure everything is aligned correctly.
Thanks again for the HOW TO, definitely feels good to work on your own car and fix it. Especially when the specialist wanted £90 to fit the part. No thank you!
Post by: IOMAL on April 14, 2017, 08:32:14 am
all has gone well except tightening the blank back up with the t20 torx ,put the blank back in ,held the handle part out ,tightened up and thought all was ok ,couple if days later noticed the blank was starting to come out ,so loosened the t20 off tried tightening with the handle in / out all sorts and the blank is sitting in place ,but not secure ☹️ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: spicypixel on May 03, 2017, 09:09:22 pm
Thanks
Post by: lukemk5gti on May 04, 2017, 08:20:41 am
Anyone able to suggest a reputable source for rear drivers (right) side door locks? As long as they work it's an improvement over the totally not working one right now.
Thanks
eBay do reconditioned models for around £30
Brand new from VW is much much higher.
I suggest trying to repair yours by drilling a pin hole into the enclosure and filling with grease to get things moving. There's a video somewhere on here.
Post by: spicypixel on May 05, 2017, 06:43:25 pm
Post by: Matto on August 18, 2017, 09:54:18 pm
Post by: acko2204 on March 18, 2018, 04:04:57 pm
Great guide
I too have just put a 2nd hand OSR door lock on, had exactly same issue as above?! Took me roughly 15 attempts, I’m still baffled as to what I did differently on the 15 attempt haha..all worky worky now 👍🏼, just hope my locking barrel doesn’t fall out anytime soon.knowing my luck though it probably will
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: kpowell911 on November 09, 2019, 07:18:13 pm
https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,122715.0.html
Post by: kpowell911 on November 16, 2019, 07:02:53 pm
Post by: JayHays2020 on January 25, 2020, 08:49:58 pm
Post by: kevster996 on April 15, 2020, 09:17:29 pm
Great guide! Does anyone know the part number for the purple rubber band that holds the door lock in place?
You can prob use anything to hold it in place e.g. rubber band doubled up a few times - it just holds it there I think until you get the screw in under the handle to hold it so prob can leave it off anyway?
Mine is all done apart from getting the blank back in. I keep managing somehow to knock the C collar off the mechanism which means door skin off again! Gave up tonight so will try again in the morning. If you are unlucky you can knock it off pushing the blank back in if its in the wrong position. The tabs on the C collar arent big enough to hold it in place and at certain points in its rotation I think it can come away from the mech - aaaarggghhhhh!
Post by: Octoparrot on April 16, 2020, 11:02:20 am
Great guide! Does anyone know the part number for the purple rubber band that holds the door lock in place?
1J0820749C
Post by: kevster996 on April 16, 2020, 11:32:01 am
Also test fit the blank in the mech so you can line up/rotate the C collar so its in the right place when it all goes back in - this way you know the blank should drop in and and then be tightened up. The issue with the C collar is that if you screw in too far it can drop away from the mechanism as the tabs go past where they are retained ans then its skin off again. I didnt tighten it all the way in but it holds fine. And yes you need to pull the handle out all the time the C collar is being tightened or it can foul on the collar and push it out... :driver:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Pc9wUtag1EABCjix6
Post by: GVK on June 01, 2020, 09:57:54 pm
Noticed during this thread that a few people had problems with the handle c collar falling apart, on the vid he only loosens the tx20 12 turns, maybe the guys that have had problems moved it too far?
I've got a passenger side lock to fit do, so been doing a bit of research.
Post by: Mattt on January 11, 2021, 07:03:20 pm
When I picked it up 2/4 doors locked with 1/4 dead locking, this years been financially destructive so I aimed to get all my locks working for £0 or as close as possible, this thread in particular was of interest to me because I immediately found one of the barrel lock blanks was stuck...
I’d like to share my experience, thoughts and solutions to the stuck barrel and servicing of the locking mechanisms.
My car, like most it’s age has been fiddled with before, when doing the doors the most obvious sign is the plasters covering the handle mechanism torx screw either missing or part unstuck.
See YouTube for some excellent tutorials on door skin removal, 12 turn technique should always work.
If you are not familiar with doing this pay extra attention to feeling/part pulling the handle, as the ring turns it catches and holds the handle spring under part tension and helps when refitting the handle in the door, you can do damage by binding the barrel release ring up if you don’t pay attention here, if you see/feel the handle bind up, wind the torx screw in a bit and try again.
If the 12 turn technique (make sure you keep the handle part open) hasn’t worked check that there is a tab visible at 6 o’clock of the torx screw head! On mine it had been bent over and the screw head simply wound past it, in this case use a magnetic screwdriver and completely remove the screw to allow more access, it’s doing nothing anyway, now you can fashion a loop out of fine wire and catch and pull the mangled tab on the barrel retaining ring, hey presto!
The cause of this was incorrect previous assembly(screw tightened onto the release tab instead of installed between the release and back tab, I was able to straighten out the ring tabs and pre assemble the handle retaining mechanism once the door skin was off.
There are plenty of pics of these parts online, checkout the ring mechanism, it’s well designed to prevent failure/stuck issues so if yours is stuck it’s probably been put together wrong, add a little penetrating lubricant to make it even easier.
Servicing the locking modules; there are two fairly distinct parts, the mechanical/hardware side I will not cover, I don’t believe there are many failures happening there.
When you tear down the electrical side you’ll find a PCB, 2 small DC motors, 3-5 micro switches and 1-2 resistors.
Check the PCB, micro switches and resistors with a multimeter, on mine 1 door had a bad circuit in the pcb, all micro switches and resistors were fine (there are replacement micro switches and resistors all over the net for pennies incase you need something)
I fixed my pcb with some extra solder. This door worked sometimes in warm conditions and sometimes if you hit it.
Looking at the motors two things struck me, they do very few revolutions between locked and unlocked/deadlocked (one locks/unlocks, one is deadlock on/off), they are orientated in such a way that any detritus that is generated within them will collect around the brushes.
On inspection my motors all felt a bit sticky and the magnetic poles almost non existent.
Frustratingly replacement motors are hard to identify with certainty, the big corporates that produced them don’t publish specs and they don’t appear for resale anywhere I could find.
Back out with the generic ‘fixes everything’ penetrating lube... I started by soaking the motors and spinning them back and forth by hand to loosen things up then tipped the motors down to allow the muck to drain out followed up by another soak, then I ran each one on a 5v circuit back and forwards.
Just repeat until each motor operates reliably. Pay particular attention to stop/starting repeatedly to be sure there’s no sticking points.
The failure point is when you apply voltage but the motor doesn’t turn, cause being dirty/worn brushes. This is prone to happening more frequently in these locks because the motor always stops/starts from the same two points.
If this happens in the deadlock motor in the locked position you will get the ‘door stuck shut’ problem.
If the other motor fails you’ll get ‘doesn’t lock/unlock’ but will still be able double pull from the inside to open, assuming child locks are off!!
ECU codes thrown will likely be; 0155x 0009x 009xx ,x dependant on what door is playing up. 01038 central locking thermal protection may also be in the DTC.
If you want to open up the motors and be even more thorough go ahead, there’s a vid somewhere on YouTube for that. I didn’t because I wanted to first try this solution.
This is day 1 of all my locks working (and coming home lights! YAY!)
Will post here again when I have to take a door skin off again incase anyone is interested.
Total cost, swearing only, lucky I had all required tools, warning, you’ll need tx9 which is unusual ish.
Post by: MindlessHero on February 20, 2021, 07:39:32 am
Cheers 👍
Post by: Lewo on June 18, 2021, 11:14:26 am
I need to get a regulator for the drivers door but had to look at the window regulator yesterday and stupidly refitted the door skin but forgot to put the small screw in behind the handle before re-fitting the handle & lock ....
Got the lock back out but can't get the handle off as you can see the carrier moving slightly, right PITA.
Any tips on how I can get myself out of the kaka?
Cheers.