MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: Trav Turbo on January 05, 2019, 05:05:35 pm
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Hi all I'm in the process of wanting a ignition on/off for my aftermarket Pioneer stereo in my 2007 Gti. As the weather has dropped I'm trying to avoid battery drain as it stays on standby even when turned off. I've seen people do fuse tap and also seen pictures of wire and fuse added under the bonnet fuse box which is easy to do. I just did mine and it still doesn't turn on/off with ignition. Also I've got an extra 15 amp fuse in mine compared to the pictures I've seen.
Any help on how people have done theirs would be great full.
Cheers (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190105/e7db560cef9dfb1337f764dff5cb1385.jpg)
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Hiya,
I had a problem with my Pioneer Head Unit not turning off!, I was pointed in the direction of this little box of tricks!.
It has given me 'speed pulse', 'switched live' and more!
Hope it may help, this is what I purchased - do check though it is right for your car if you are looking at this option
http://www.connects2.co.uk/Product/ProductItem/CTHUP-VW01
Cheers, Emm's
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i think you can take the stereos power wire and wire it into an "ignition live" wire (say the cigarette lighter) but I don't know if you've basically already done this in a slightly different way. also.. the ignition live is ok, as it is literally on/off with the key but I don't think it holds memory in the stereo. just an idea to prevent battery drain.
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Hi just an update. I went for the fuse tap route taking it's own live feed from drivers side fuse box from one of the empty slots , it turns on/off with the key now and works all good.
Cheers
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Hi just an update. I went for the fuse tap route taking it's own live feed from drivers side fuse box from one of the empty slots , it turns on/off with the key now and works all good.
Cheers
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Good work mate, happy you got it all working now :-)
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I've used the connect 2 harness that allows the multi function steering wheel controls to work and even without multi function steering wheel this will sort out and saves running extra wires for power and battery drain issues and used them on 3 mk5s and never any issues 👍
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FnS69frD.jpg&hash=f54b157eb8ff8608088cb67e0d798c93c65f6080)
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fitted the standard dynamic sounds harness to a mates mk5 tdi. they guy from DS said to run the wire to ignition live as that's all the box basically does anyway. but of course, if you don't know how to tap fuses or don't want to tap into existing wiring then this harness is the way to go ;-)
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Pull out the 15 amp fuse in F19 slot and put in the connection into the right connection on the F19 slot only. Im gonna do this tonight.
Which gauge wire did you use?
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Same problem :-)
What terminal do you connect the F19 right connection to?
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That fuse tap doesn’t work as you leave the car for a few days and battery’s flat as a pancake!!!
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That fuse tap doesn’t work as you leave the car for a few days and battery’s flat as a pancake!!!
Why does everyone use it then? Bit confused as everywhere says to do it.
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Just to confirm, i too want to upgrade my head unit... if I buy that connects box above it will avoid the battery drain issue? No need to run any wires?
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Just to confirm, i too want to upgrade my head unit... if I buy that connects box above it will avoid the battery drain issue? No need to run any wires?
it all depends on whether you buy an OEM stereo for original fitment or whether you go universal aftermarket. if you get an OEM stereo it should jut plug and play :-)
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And if I go after market it’ll need that connects box so that I don’t have to run any wires to an ignition feed?
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And if I go after market it’ll need that connects box so that I don’t have to run any wires to an ignition feed?
I believe so yes. But look into it deeper before committing as I’ve read mixed reviews on them.
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Hi just an update. I went for the fuse tap route taking it's own live feed from drivers side fuse box from one of the empty slots , it turns on/off with the key now and works all good.
Cheers
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Any issues with battery since? I need to do this myself, but not sure how. Or what I’m supposed to buy. What kind of wire is it? I can’t find any websites or videos that explain how to do this. Could you help? Pictures or a video or something?
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I've used the connect 2 harness that allows the multi function steering wheel controls to work and even without multi function steering wheel this will sort out and saves running extra wires for power and battery drain issues and used them on 3 mk5s and never any issues 👍
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FnS69frD.jpg&hash=f54b157eb8ff8608088cb67e0d798c93c65f6080)
I can’t find this on the Dynamic Sounds website. Do you have a model number or something for the exact Connects2 harness you bought?
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Ho yeah it has been spot on and no issues whatsoever. I ran a fuse tap from one of the top row empty slots in the dashboard fuse box as they are ignition live by the key. I get the fuse tap from Ebay and I also bought the same head unit to go in my Audi A3 and ran the exact same fuse tap setup and no issues (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/d92031a252ac1491252e48421b29cbf9.jpg)
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Ho yeah it has been spot on and no issues whatsoever. I ran a fuse tap from one of the top row empty slots in the dashboard fuse box as they are ignition live by the key. I get the fuse tap from Ebay and I also bought the same head unit to go in my Audi A3 and ran the exact same fuse tap setup and no issues (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/d92031a252ac1491252e48421b29cbf9.jpg)
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Thanks for replying. I’m a bit of a noob when it comes to cars, so apologies for the questions. Is it a 5 amp or 10 amp fuse you are using? Is it a specific type of fuse tap I need to buy? Which wire from the headunit goes in to the fuse tap and where do you feed it through? I think it’s currently wired up to my engine fuse box as a 15 amp fuse in there keeps blowing when I’m playing around with the headunit wires.
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Ho yeah it has been spot on and no issues whatsoever. I ran a fuse tap from one of the top row empty slots in the dashboard fuse box as they are ignition live by the key. I get the fuse tap from Ebay and I also bought the same head unit to go in my Audi A3 and ran the exact same fuse tap setup and no issues (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/d92031a252ac1491252e48421b29cbf9.jpg)
I did this and it worked fine with a pioneer mvh-av290bt head unit. Although I'd seen lots of posts on the Internet to me it still seemed a bit of a bodged fix. I saw the option from dynamic sound and had a few emails back and forth to make sure it would do what I wanted it to do I ended up ordering this from them which also allows me to add a reverse camera without the need to run the wire to the gear selector and sorts the issue where the multi function steering wheel controls would not work with just the live wire feed I had installed.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401051264078
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Ho yeah it has been spot on and no issues whatsoever. I ran a fuse tap from one of the top row empty slots in the dashboard fuse box as they are ignition live by the key. I get the fuse tap from Ebay and I also bought the same head unit to go in my Audi A3 and ran the exact same fuse tap setup and no issues (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/d92031a252ac1491252e48421b29cbf9.jpg)
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Thanks for replying. I’m a bit of a noob when it comes to cars, so apologies for the questions. Is it a 5 amp or 10 amp fuse you are using? Is it a specific type of fuse tap I need to buy? Which wire from the headunit goes in to the fuse tap and where do you feed it through? I think it’s currently wired up to my engine fuse box as a 15 amp fuse in there keeps blowing when I’m playing around with the headunit wires.
I used a 20amp fuse and connected to the power lead on the stereo. Ran the wire behind the dashboard from the fuse box to the stereo wiring loom. It works exactly the same way the stock head unit did, no battery drain, turns on/off with ignition key & doesn't loose stereo memory. Haven't had a problem for over a year now
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Ho yeah it has been spot on and no issues whatsoever. I ran a fuse tap from one of the top row empty slots in the dashboard fuse box as they are ignition live by the key. I get the fuse tap from Ebay and I also bought the same head unit to go in my Audi A3 and ran the exact same fuse tap setup and no issues (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200307/d92031a252ac1491252e48421b29cbf9.jpg)
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Thanks for replying. I’m a bit of a noob when it comes to cars, so apologies for the questions. Is it a 5 amp or 10 amp fuse you are using? Is it a specific type of fuse tap I need to buy? Which wire from the headunit goes in to the fuse tap and where do you feed it through? I think it’s currently wired up to my engine fuse box as a 15 amp fuse in there keeps blowing when I’m playing around with the headunit wires.
I used a 20amp fuse and connected to the power lead on the stereo. Ran the wire behind the dashboard from the fuse box to the stereo wiring loom. It works exactly the same way the stock head unit did, no battery drain, turns on/off with ignition key & doesn't loose stereo memory. Haven't had a problem for over a year now
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I can’t work out what cable you’re connecting to the wire tap in the fuse box. Which one is the stereo power lead? The cable which goes into the slot named 'radio'? Are you using some kind of extension cable as well? As my wire tap is a small cable. I have pictures of all wires and connectors and my unit that would help you show me what I need to do. I can send them to you via email or something?
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Yes I did extend the fuse tap to make it longer. Power lead you need to connect it to the one on the actual head unit, not sure which one as all makes of head unit are different. Then plug the ISO connectors as normal. Any auto electrician should be able to do this for you if you're unsure to do it yourself
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Yes I did extend the fuse tap to make it longer. Power lead you need to connect it to the one on the actual head unit, not sure which one as all makes of head unit are different. Then plug the ISO connectors as normal. Any auto electrician should be able to do this for you if you're unsure to do it yourself
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I’m not sure how to extend the fuse tap. I Just saw a video which says to take the red ignition wire from the radio and crimp it to the tap. Is that what you did? I see you have your tap connected to slot 6 in the fuse box. I have slot 5 spare, should I use that? (as long as it's ignition live). Do you still need 2 fuses in the tap if there wasn't a fuse in the slot in the first place? Or should I use slot 6 like you have? I'm not sure what the fuse in my slot 6 is for.
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Yes I did extend the fuse tap to make it longer. Power lead you need to connect it to the one on the actual head unit, not sure which one as all makes of head unit are different. Then plug the ISO connectors as normal. Any auto electrician should be able to do this for you if you're unsure to do it yourself
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I’m not sure how to extend the fuse tap. I Just saw a video which says to take the red ignition wire from the radio and crimp it to the tap. Is that what you did? I see you have your tap connected to slot 6 in the fuse box. I have slot 5 spare, should I use that? (as long as it's ignition live). Do you still need 2 fuses in the tap if there wasn't a fuse in the slot in the first place? Or should I use slot 6 like you have? I'm not sure what the fuse in my slot 6 is for.
When I say 'spare slot' I just mean a slot without a fuse. Both slots 5 and 6 on my chart have the symbol of a book with an exclamation mark on the page, whatever that means.
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I extended the fuse tap wire by buying the same amp wire joined & crimped. Some cars have all the top row fuses and some has less depending on model car and extras ect. If it's an empty slot you only need 1 fuse to power the head unit. Also look on YouTube there is a video on how to do it on a Audi A3 8P which is the same process how I did mine
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I extended the fuse tap wire by buying the same amp wire joined & crimped. Some cars have all the top row fuses and some has less depending on model car and extras ect. If it's an empty slot you only need 1 fuse to power the head unit. Also look on YouTube there is a video on how to do it on a Audi A3 8P which is the same process how I did mine
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Just watched one where he connects a black wire directly to a fuse pin without the tap adapter, if that's the video you meant. Couldn't find any others. What do you mean 'same amp wire'? Have you plugged the fuse into the slot closest to the pins on the tap adapter? I can't really tell from your picture.
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No that's not to video I seen unfortunately. I've got the same gauge wire to join the fuse tap to extend it as the fuse tap comes short. My fuse is in the slot away from the fuse box, I did have it in the one closer and realized I had it in the wrong one as it didn't work. Hope that helps
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No that's not to video I seen unfortunately. I've got the same gauge wire to join the fuse tap to extend it as the fuse tap comes short. My fuse is in the slot away from the fuse box, I did have it in the one closer and realized I had it in the wrong one as it didn't work. Hope that helps
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Okay thanks. I dunno if you could just link me to the wire I need to buy for the extension. All seems a bit over my head. Sorry for the bother.
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That fuse tap doesn’t work as you leave the car for a few days and battery’s flat as a pancake!!!
Why does everyone use it then? Bit confused as everywhere says to do it.
Fuse tap easy way had no battery drain after 2 weeks parked up... Simple to do
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No that's not to video I seen unfortunately. I've got the same gauge wire to join the fuse tap to extend it as the fuse tap comes short. My fuse is in the slot away from the fuse box, I did have it in the one closer and realized I had it in the wrong one as it didn't work. Hope that helps
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Okay thanks. I dunno if you could just link me to the wire I need to buy for the extension. All seems a bit over my head. Sorry for the bother.
https://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/car-amps-and-subs/proflex-6mm%2F10awg-red-power-cable-5m-188642.html?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Technology%3ECar+Audio%3ECar+Amps+and+Subs-_-Technology%3ECar+Audio%3ECar+Amps+&+Subs-_-188642&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=62b447cf-331e-4fec-a47a-9985ff72d404&istItemId=xtqprx&istBid=tztx&_$ja=tsid:94971|cid:8979078134|agid:94446545927|tid:pla-330689104041|crid:412800843296|nw:g|rnd:5710673837131817508|dvc:m|adp:|mt:|loc:9045622&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3qzzBRDnARIsAECmryo7Q0EXZlwIEh9pc7TAQUkIB_4HXCn9j40x65KvRSzHrayCIWZv0bUaAldkEALw_wcB
Something like this . Or take the fuse tap with you in the shop and ask for the same gauge wire to extend it
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No that's not to video I seen unfortunately. I've got the same gauge wire to join the fuse tap to extend it as the fuse tap comes short. My fuse is in the slot away from the fuse box, I did have it in the one closer and realized I had it in the wrong one as it didn't work. Hope that helps
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Okay thanks. I dunno if you could just link me to the wire I need to buy for the extension. All seems a bit over my head. Sorry for the bother.
https://www.halfords.com/technology/car-audio/car-amps-and-subs/proflex-6mm%2F10awg-red-power-cable-5m-188642.html?cm_mmc=Google+PLA-_-Technology%3ECar+Audio%3ECar+Amps+and+Subs-_-Technology%3ECar+Audio%3ECar+Amps+&+Subs-_-188642&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=62b447cf-331e-4fec-a47a-9985ff72d404&istItemId=xtqprx&istBid=tztx&_$ja=tsid:94971|cid:8979078134|agid:94446545927|tid:pla-330689104041|crid:412800843296|nw:g|rnd:5710673837131817508|dvc:m|adp:|mt:|loc:9045622&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3qzzBRDnARIsAECmryo7Q0EXZlwIEh9pc7TAQUkIB_4HXCn9j40x65KvRSzHrayCIWZv0bUaAldkEALw_wcB
Something like this . Or take the fuse tap with you in the shop and ask for the same gauge wire to extend it
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Thanks. I want to send you a picture of my headunit to help me identify the power cable you’re referring to. But I don’t know how to upload a picture to this damn thing. Would wiring it to the headunit's red wire work?
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Yes if it's your red power lead that powers the head unit to come on. All the fuse tap does is do the exact same thing as a power lead to the factory head unit but switches it on/off via the key
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Yes if it's your red power lead that powers the head unit to come on. All the fuse tap does is do the exact same thing as a power lead to the factory head unit but switches it on/off via the key
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A friend of mine is saying to connect to 12V red wire to the fuse box, but that’s the one that comes directly from the car's harness. It would be easier to disconnect it from the car's harness and connect it straight to the fuse tap instead. None of the wires coming directly from the headunit say 12V, but say 300V. Could it work that way or should I still be cutting a wire closer to the headunit?
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Your friend is correct he means connecting from the fuse box and connecting straight to the red power wire on the head unit. Not the one in the factory wiring loom on the car leave that as it is .
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Your friend is correct he means connecting from the fuse box and connecting straight to the red power wire on the head unit. Not the one in the factory wiring loom on the car leave that as it is .
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The wire we were thinking of cutting was the 12V red from the black adapter that locks on to the factory harness (the side with the lever clip bit that you pull down to lock it). We weren't doing anything to any wires on the factory side with the locking clip. I'll try and explain the order I see all wires and harnesses etc and you can tell me where I need to disconnect/cut.
Car Factory harness w/ locking clip > black adapter that locks onto factory harness > lots of wires from that (including the 12V red were going to cut) leading to 1 brown and 1 black adapter > a black harness that fits the brown and black adapters inside > lots of smaller wires including a red (they say 300V on them) which connect into the headunit via a black plug. There is also a can bus decoder towards the headunit side of things.
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Yes cut the 12v red wire from the black adaptor that locks into the factory loom. Remember to put a female connector on the end that's not needed so it can be simply connect it again if you was to remove the head unit at a later date to go in a different car. Or you can just crimp or tape it up. Hope this helps.
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After Market radios are meant to have a permanent live to prevent saved data like the clock or preset radio stations from resetting.
I have a Pioneer AVH head unit and I know it can do 10 days without running the car. I also know after 30 days away the batter has completely died and needs a jump.
If your battery is dead after 3 days maybe look at replacing the battery.. Or parking at the top of a hill for a bump start..
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Does joining the red and yellow from the head unit and wiring it to the yellow from the connector not give it an ignition only power on set up?
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No it won't. I have a Pioneer AVH head unit, before I fitted a fuse tap it would always loose memory of preset radio stations and time ect . If not driven for 4 days battery would be flat and would have to jumpstart, then when winter came it got worse automatic home/away lights stopped working when opening the car ,slow starting up sometimes struggled & pretty much killed my battery. Fitted a new battery and it would still loose memory and if not driven for a week it would still struggle to start so I knew it had battery drain issue, fitted fuse tap and everything has been perfect, no more memory loss, no more flat battery after days not driven
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After Market radios are meant to have a permanent live to prevent saved data like the clock or preset radio stations from resetting.
I have a Pioneer AVH head unit and I know it can do 10 days without running the car. I also know after 30 days away the batter has completely died and needs a jump.
If your battery is dead after 3 days maybe look at replacing the battery.. Or parking at the top of a hill for a bump start..
My battery is faulty anyway, I do need to get it replaced :happy2:
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Yes cut the 12v red wire from the black adaptor that locks into the factory loom. Remember to put a female connector on the end that's not needed so it can be simply connect it again if you was to remove the head unit at a later date to go in a different car. Or you can just crimp or tape it up. Hope this helps.
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So are you saying the end that is not needed, to keep that bit of wire plugged in to the black adapter which clips onto the factory harness, with a female connector on the other end I've cut? I was just going to disconnect it and keep it safe. Also, the other end of the wire we're connecting to the fuse tap, does it just need crimping or does it need a bullet connector to be able to fit into the tap?
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Yes I left a female connector on the end and taped up with insulation tape on mine and used a crimped the fuse tap wire to the 12v power wire. If I have to remove the head unit to fit in another car I will put a male connector on the cut wire to join it back if need be.
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Yes I left a female connector on the end and taped up with insulation tape on mine and used a crimped the fuse tap wire to the 12v power wire. If I have to remove the head unit to fit in another car I will put a male connector on the cut wire to join it back if need be.
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Success!!! So much easier than I expected once I knew exactly what to do. Thanks, dude! A bit tricky feeding the wire through the back, mind. Appreciate the help!
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No worries glad you got it all sorted. Bit tricky when you don't know but easy to do when figured out .
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