MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: irish_ram on October 09, 2015, 08:29:44 pm
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If my rear wheel bearing is making a noise does this needing replaced straight away
Only reason I ask is after sending the diagnosis and description of fault to my Warranty company they have advised they will not pa for any work as it is not faulty but just noisey
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Just check for castellated tyre's on the rear as this can sound like a bearing gone
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Typical of warranty cover!
Imagine you disconnected that wheels ABS sensor and recorded a MIL then that would imply the reluctor ring within the noisey bearing has failed due to excess play.
To me that would mean a noise had indicated a potential problem and the light is the resulting failure, now we should have met the cover criteria - the repairer will confirm you have both the noise and the MIL light which would be cured with a new wheel bearing - worth a try for very little effort.
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Just check for castellated tyre's on the rear as this can sound like a bearing gone
As Andy has said, check the rear tyres for 'sawtoothing' as this is a very common problem on mk5 platform cars and causes a droning/bearing type noise...
Run your hand around the outer/inner edge of your rear tyres and if in one direction it feels 'stepped' instead of smooth :happy2:
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Just check for castellated tyre's on the rear as this can sound like a bearing gone
As Andy has said, check the rear tyres for 'sawtoothing' as this is a very common problem on mk5 platform cars and causes a droning/bearing type noise...
Run your hand around the outer/inner edge of your rear tyres and if in one direction it feels 'stepped' instead of smooth :happy2:
I thought it may be this as had tyre noise on previous car however the diagnosis was done at VW and they had the car jacked up and then manually spun the wheel and you could hear the noise. So no contact of the tyre to anything to make a noise
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Typical of warranty cover!
Imagine you disconnected that wheels ABS sensor and recorded a MIL then that would imply the reluctor ring within the noisey bearing has failed due to excess play.
To me that would mean a noise had indicated a potential problem and the light is the resulting failure, now we should have met the cover criteria - the repairer will confirm you have both the noise and the MIL light which would be cured with a new wheel bearing - worth a try for very little effort.
I think I see what you mean but as part of the garage diags would they not clear the MIL and re-scan and the MIL would disappear?
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Then if they do and the fault comes back (which it will if you unplug it again) are they going to wait for the wheel to drop off before correcting a faulty bearing - I'm sure the repairer will push in your favour!
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Then if they do and the fault comes back (which it will if you unplug it again) are they going to wait for the wheel to drop off before correcting a faulty bearing - I'm sure the repairer will push in your favour!
Good point. Annoying I paid a good few hundred for this cover and you have to go this far to get them to repair a fault they should be doing anyway from the word go :confused:
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Mind do check the other posters recommendations as its a common problem!
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I had mine replaced under warrantee, get another garage to diagnose it as failed and is in need of urgent repair. Then tell the warrantee company you seeked a second opinion.
They might not go for it but worth a shot if it is Infact the bearing :smiley:
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I am going to take a look at it tomorrow again myself. Is there a test I can do to almost pinpoint it to the bearing. For instance if the car is jacked up and the wheel then spun and makes the same noise would that eliminate that it could be wheel noise as it is not in contact with the surface.
Want to be as sure as possible as my warranty says if I get diags done and it is not a fault they will cover as in just tyre noise I would have to pay the diag fee
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Jack the corner up and spin the wheel, mine was grinding and was completely obvious and also if I grabbed the top and bottom of the wheel while it was jacked up I could wobble the whole wheel.
Obviously mine was pretty far worn so don't know how bad yours is but if it does that you can almost be sure its the bearing.
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If the warranty end up being awkward and not paying out I may either try the repair myself or buy the part and get a garage to do it for the labour cost. Is something like the below a suitable replacement
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volkswagen-Golf-Mk5-2003-2010-Rear-Wheel-Hub-Bearing-Kit-ABS-Hub-/301550950408?hash=item4635d65808#vi-ilComp
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I replaced mine myself on axle stands on the drive. Easy job, part was around 40 quid for mine, little bit of hassle sourcing the correct abs sensor but it's certainly a DIY job
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I replaced mine myself on axle stands on the drive. Easy job, part was around 40 quid for mine, little bit of hassle sourcing the correct abs sensor but it's certainly a DIY job
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Yeah I watched a couple of videos last night and it seems from what others say the only issue will be if some of the bolts are seized as without proper garage tools you may be stuffed at that point
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For a start it looks like I don't have all the tools
From looking at tutorials it seems to need
Rachet set for wheel nuts
Two spanners for the caliper
Screwdriver
Hammer
M14 and M18 Triple Spline
So I have all of these apart from the M18 Spline :confused:
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Yeah, the m18 socket is only a fiver or so on ebay
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Anyone now a good source for these M Sockets as cannot seem to find an M18 to purchase on its own
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Caliper? You don't need to remove the brakes
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Caliper? You don't need to remove the brakes
I thought you did, in the videos I have watched it removed the Brake Caliper I presume so the Brake disc can be removed and then the bearing slid off?
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Sorry. Ignore me. For some reason I thought you were replacing the shocks. Not enough sleep :indifferent:
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Probably going to leave it to the garage as the bolts were so seized it took me until now to get the wheels off. Then tried for ages on one of the bolts on calipers and not budging :confused:
I may just get a wheel bearing for £40 and my cv boot is gone so £13 and then get a garage to do me a good deal on labour as would take them no more than a couple of hours to replace
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Probably going to leave it to the garage as the bolts were so seized it took me until now to get the wheels off. Then tried for ages on one of the bolts on calipers and not budging :confused:
I may just get a wheel bearing for £40 and my cv boot is gone so £13 and then get a garage to do me a good deal on labour as would take them no more than a couple of hours to replace
A wise move as the carrier bolts quite often require enough access to get a breaker bar in and that means height off the ground if you've not got access to a ramp!
The jobs are easy jobs but only if you've got the equipment which makes it easy.
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Did the bearing on my ED30 a few months back. I bought the spline tool for the main centre bolt from VW at £12. VW don't like selling their tools to the public, but you can usually twist the parts man's arm and get away with it. They're the best quality tools for the job in my experience.
The bearing/hub assembly was £110. Not sure where these £40 bearings are coming from but I only use genuine stuff on critical components. Don't trust cheap copy stuff.
The centre bolt is done up real tight, so I bought a 3 foot 3/4" breaker bar from Machine Mart for £20. The caliper carrier spline tool I already had, so in total the job cost me less than £150 and took less than an hour. It's dead easy. Just need the right tools and plenty of leverage for the centre bolt as it's a lb-ft rating + 180 degrees iirc. Feels like the bolt will snap, but it doesn't!
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I appear to have a passenger side rear bearing noise.
From what I see there is 2 different types...30mm and 32mm.
Is there anything I can do bar having car on stand all day while I run around getting the right part.im guessing mine has the 32mm bearing but wouldn't really want it striped to find I have the wrong one.
Any advice?...ie...would vin number indicate which size the car has?
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The bearing/hub assembly was £110. Not sure where these £40 bearings are coming from but I only use genuine stuff on critical components. Don't trust cheap copy stuff.
From my local factors, used them a few times, never had a failure reported