Post by: AJP on February 15, 2016, 03:09:28 pm
Reason for that is the new turbo-back Powervalve... on top of the stage 1 R-Tech there's now just too much for the clutch.
So, am I right in saying the Helix Organic with a new oem flywheel is the way to go? I may be going hybrid k03 at some point so it'll need to be able to cope with 400lbft.
Any info, links etc appreciated. Cheers!
Post by: pudding on February 15, 2016, 03:52:26 pm
You need to tell Helix which brand of DMF you're using, so order that first. Be prepared for a wait on the clutch too. Got mine last year but hate to wait a month!
Post by: ed30Lewis on February 15, 2016, 03:57:21 pm
I have The Helix Organic Clutch with a oem LUK DMF. Its coping with my stage 2+ eddy at 397lbft no problem. Mine was ordered through awesome GTI and the wait time was a week :happy2:
Post by: AJP on February 15, 2016, 04:32:06 pm
Unfortunately I'll have to wait a few weeks til I get the funds together as I was quietly hoping the clutch would cope... bad assumption on my part.
I'm also booked in with Niki on 24th to tweak the map to the exhaust - think I'll have to cancel that - no point trying to squeeze more out of it on the rollers if it's struggling now.
Steady driving required for a bit then!
Post by: BradCobbs on February 20, 2016, 01:24:29 pm
With 130,000 miles on the clock I think it has done well.
Will an OE clutch simply not take the extra torque that stage 1 provides? I've done roughly 8,000 miles since the remap.
Obviously an uprated clutch is the way to go, but they are significantly more expensive.
Post by: AJP on February 20, 2016, 06:05:52 pm
I've had the same problem in the last couple weeks which is gradually getting worse.From what I gather, an oem clutch should handle stage 1 levels of torque, but simply won't last anywhere near as long as it should.
With 130,000 miles on the clock I think it has done well.
Will an OE clutch simply not take the extra torque that stage 1 provides? I've done roughly 8,000 miles since the remap.
Obviously an uprated clutch is the way to go, but they are significantly more expensive.
I suppose it depends how long you plan to keep the car, and if further power mods are a possibility down the line. For me, I'll be keeping the GTI for a good 5+ more years and I am planning more power, so it wouldn't make sense to go for another oem clutch in my situation.
Also if you look at the job as a whole, done right with a new flywheel, plus labour, it's a dear job whichever way you look at it. The clutch itself is just one part of the job so you're not going to be saving a huge amount relatively.
I like the idea of having a clutch that you can put 400lb/ft through. Not sure the con rods will be too happy but that's just another a bridge to be crossed when it arises..
Post by: Madone on February 21, 2016, 09:14:42 am
Post by: rashg60 on February 21, 2016, 09:26:38 am
Since our cars similar, I suspect it won't be too long before mine will start to play up too.
I actually have no idea about uprated clutches or what needs replacing etc. By the sounds of things it seems very expensive. Please do keep me updated on your progress, as no doubt I'll be crossing this bridge sooner or later.
PS - you free next weekend?
Post by: AJP on February 21, 2016, 10:38:07 am
AJP that is bad news man! I guess you, like me, were hoping that the standard clutch would hold. Now you're beginning to frighten me, as I didn't wanna go down the route of clutch replacement. Thankfully mine is holding up just fine at the moment.I think it's just bad luck mate, yours could be ok for a long time to come, but maybe keep a little fund to one side just in case..!
Since our cars similar, I suspect it won't be too long before mine will start to play up too.
I actually have no idea about uprated clutches or what needs replacing etc. By the sounds of things it seems very expensive. Please do keep me updated on your progress, as no doubt I'll be crossing this bridge sooner or later.
PS - you free next weekend?
I'll pm you now regarding the bumper
Post by: pudding on February 23, 2016, 12:39:40 pm
I've had the same problem in the last couple weeks which is gradually getting worse.From what I gather, an oem clutch should handle stage 1 levels of torque, but simply won't last anywhere near as long as it should.
With 130,000 miles on the clock I think it has done well.
Will an OE clutch simply not take the extra torque that stage 1 provides? I've done roughly 8,000 miles since the remap.
Obviously an uprated clutch is the way to go, but they are significantly more expensive.
I suppose it depends how long you plan to keep the car, and if further power mods are a possibility down the line. For me, I'll be keeping the GTI for a good 5+ more years and I am planning more power, so it wouldn't make sense to go for another oem clutch in my situation.
Also if you look at the job as a whole, done right with a new flywheel, plus labour, it's a dear job whichever way you look at it. The clutch itself is just one part of the job so you're not going to be saving a huge amount relatively.
I like the idea of having a clutch that you can put 400lb/ft through. Not sure the con rods will be too happy but that's just another a bridge to be crossed when it arises..
A brand new OEM clutch can cope with 300lbft, just. One that's beyond half worn, doesn't like it and has been demonstrated enough times now that it's almost a fact!
Also, bear in mind VW only rate their FWD turbo gearboxes to a maximum of 280lbft, so over-boosting our cars puts us all on borrowed time anyway....but I digress....
.....Just to add some context to this because forums tend to be black or white with these things..... I am talking about peak boost / torque when the car is over-geared (so 6th on the motorway), peak boost up a hill in 4th and sometimes 3rd. Most of the time on a flat or slight down hill and with the wind behind you, the clutch can cope with it. Throw a cold winter's day into the mix and the variables all change again!
Just prior to getting my clutch done and with Revo, it was spinning up 3rd like clockwork, in the dry. After it was custom mapped, it was barely wheel spinning at all and just didn't feel as responsive when in boost. Why? Because the damn clutch was slipping!!! Threw the helix in and it's 'f'ck me', what an animal!!!
Post by: AJP on February 23, 2016, 12:55:40 pm
Can safely say I agree with this!I've had the same problem in the last couple weeks which is gradually getting worse.From what I gather, an oem clutch should handle stage 1 levels of torque, but simply won't last anywhere near as long as it should.
With 130,000 miles on the clock I think it has done well.
Will an OE clutch simply not take the extra torque that stage 1 provides? I've done roughly 8,000 miles since the remap.
Obviously an uprated clutch is the way to go, but they are significantly more expensive.
I suppose it depends how long you plan to keep the car, and if further power mods are a possibility down the line. For me, I'll be keeping the GTI for a good 5+ more years and I am planning more power, so it wouldn't make sense to go for another oem clutch in my situation.
Also if you look at the job as a whole, done right with a new flywheel, plus labour, it's a dear job whichever way you look at it. The clutch itself is just one part of the job so you're not going to be saving a huge amount relatively.
I like the idea of having a clutch that you can put 400lb/ft through. Not sure the con rods will be too happy but that's just another a bridge to be crossed when it arises..
A brand new OEM clutch can cope with 300lbft, just. One that's beyond half worn, doesn't like it and has been demonstrated enough times now that it's almost a fact!
Also, bear in mind VW only rate their FWD turbo gearboxes to a maximum of 280lbft, so over-boosting our cars puts us all on borrowed time anyway....but I digress....
.....Just to add some context to this because forums tend to be black or white with these things..... I am talking about peak boost / torque when the car is over-geared (so 6th on the motorway), peak boost up a hill in 4th and sometimes 3rd. Most of the time on a flat or slight down hill and with the wind behind you, the clutch can cope with it. Throw a cold winter's day into the mix and the variables all change again!
Just prior to getting my clutch done and with Revo, it was spinning up 3rd like clockwork, in the dry. After it was custom mapped, it was barely wheel spinning at all and just didn't feel as responsive when in boost. Why? Because the damn clutch was slipping!!! Threw the helix in and it's 'f'ck me', what an animal!!!
Post by: BradCobbs on February 23, 2016, 05:38:44 pm
A brand new OEM clutch can cope with 300lbft, just. One that's beyond half worn, doesn't like it and has been demonstrated enough times now that it's almost a fact!
Also, bear in mind VW only rate their FWD turbo gearboxes to a maximum of 280lbft, so over-boosting our cars puts us all on borrowed time anyway....but I digress....
.....Just to add some context to this because forums tend to be black or white with these things..... I am talking about peak boost / torque when the car is over-geared (so 6th on the motorway), peak boost up a hill in 4th and sometimes 3rd. Most of the time on a flat or slight down hill and with the wind behind you, the clutch can cope with it. Throw a cold winter's day into the mix and the variables all change again!
Just prior to getting my clutch done and with Revo, it was spinning up 3rd like clockwork, in the dry. After it was custom mapped, it was barely wheel spinning at all and just didn't feel as responsive when in boost. Why? Because the damn clutch was slipping!!! Threw the helix in and it's 'f'ck me', what an animal!!!
So in regards to the flywheel replacement, has anyone actually had any problems with them?
I've only ever encountered issues with Diesel Dual Mass Flywheels as the vibrations from compression strokes are far greater than those of a petrol.
I'm a mechanic so I'll be doing the work myself and think I'm gonna chance mine and just go with the clutch. I'm sure that'll come around to bite me in the arse, it's inevitable.
Post by: AJP on February 23, 2016, 08:53:38 pm
I think the point is that if you're in there doing the clutch it's pointless to leave in a flywheel that's got maybe 6 months on it.
A brand new OEM clutch can cope with 300lbft, just. One that's beyond half worn, doesn't like it and has been demonstrated enough times now that it's almost a fact!
Also, bear in mind VW only rate their FWD turbo gearboxes to a maximum of 280lbft, so over-boosting our cars puts us all on borrowed time anyway....but I digress....
.....Just to add some context to this because forums tend to be black or white with these things..... I am talking about peak boost / torque when the car is over-geared (so 6th on the motorway), peak boost up a hill in 4th and sometimes 3rd. Most of the time on a flat or slight down hill and with the wind behind you, the clutch can cope with it. Throw a cold winter's day into the mix and the variables all change again!
Just prior to getting my clutch done and with Revo, it was spinning up 3rd like clockwork, in the dry. After it was custom mapped, it was barely wheel spinning at all and just didn't feel as responsive when in boost. Why? Because the damn clutch was slipping!!! Threw the helix in and it's 'f'ck me', what an animal!!!
So in regards to the flywheel replacement, has anyone actually had any problems with them?
I've only ever encountered issues with Diesel Dual Mass Flywheels as the vibrations from compression strokes are far greater than those of a petrol.
I'm a mechanic so I'll be doing the work myself and think I'm gonna chance mine and just go with the clutch. I'm sure that'll come around to bite me in the arse, it's inevitable.
By all accounts an oem dmf works well with the Helix.
Post by: pudding on February 24, 2016, 10:46:32 am
You must specify to Helix whether your DMF is LUK or SACHS at the time of order though. I've used both brands and they're as bad as each other, so take your pick!
Post by: AJP on February 26, 2016, 11:58:16 am
Post by: pudding on February 26, 2016, 04:51:22 pm
LUK & SACHS should be hauled over the coals for that. Making sh*te parts as well as monopolising the market.
Post by: AJP on March 04, 2016, 05:49:09 pm
Better price than I imagined and great service from Alex.
I can get back to looking at bigger turbos now... I mean big brakes, honest.
Post by: pudding on March 04, 2016, 08:30:00 pm
You will be very happy with the Helix mate. I just had 4 Michelin pilot sport 4s put on and with those and that beefy clutch, the car feels epic :smiley:
I warn you now though, it's a heavy old thing. Prepare yourself for a bit of a knee work out in traffic!
Post by: AJP on March 04, 2016, 09:09:15 pm
I don't mind a heavy pedal if it means I can get some power down!
Post by: rashg60 on March 04, 2016, 09:11:00 pm
Just a quick note - spoke to Alex today and should have the clutch, flywheel and all the bits with me by the start of the week
Better price than I imagined and great service from Alex.
I can get back to looking at bigger turbos now... I mean big brakes, honest.
You'll have to let us know how that goes mate as I may have to go down this route too.
PS - where are you getting it fitted from? Also what sort of price would I be looking at as I'm gonna need to start saving!
Post by: AJP on March 04, 2016, 09:22:20 pm
I'm getting it done at Statller in Sheffield hopefully mate (I'm yet to book in!). Used them before and they're genuine specialists. Hurdy's old mk6 R was built there.Just a quick note - spoke to Alex today and should have the clutch, flywheel and all the bits with me by the start of the week
Better price than I imagined and great service from Alex.
I can get back to looking at bigger turbos now... I mean big brakes, honest.
You'll have to let us know how that goes mate as I may have to go down this route too.
PS - where are you getting it fitted from? Also what sort of price would I be looking at as I'm gonna need to start saving!
Will PM you now regarding parts cost.
Post by: BradCobbs on March 09, 2016, 06:27:55 pm
Post by: pudding on March 10, 2016, 10:15:52 am
Post by: ArildStavrum on March 10, 2016, 10:28:55 am
Just went to order a Helix clutch from Awesome and they are having trouble with their cataloging and have recommended a Sachs Performance one. Does anyone have any experience with this brand? It's around £100 more, which is making my pockets feel even more inadequate than they already were
I've got the Sachs racing clutch and it is heavier than stock, I've never used a helix clutch so cannot compare. It's been on my Ed30 for 50k miles and touchwood it's still going strong. A new DMF was installed at the same time as the Sachs clutch. I like the heaviness to be honest but Im glad I don't sit in traffic very often.
Post by: AJP on March 10, 2016, 12:17:08 pm
Just went to order a Helix clutch from Awesome and they are having trouble with their cataloging and have recommended a Sachs Performance one. Does anyone have any experience with this brand? It's around £100 more, which is making my pockets feel even more inadequate than they already wereMate, email Alex. He's got Helix kits in stock. Got mine very quick at a good price last week.
alex@akstuning.com
Post by: Tfsi_Mike on March 13, 2016, 02:17:43 pm
Just went to order a Helix clutch from Awesome and they are having trouble with their cataloging and have recommended a Sachs Performance one. Does anyone have any experience with this brand? It's around £100 more, which is making my pockets feel even more inadequate than they already wereMate, email Alex. He's got Helix kits in stock. Got mine very quick at a good price last week.
alex@akstuning.com
This ^^ Alex has them on the shelf :happy2: I'd get one of t he clutch hardline too :innocent:
Post by: AJP on March 13, 2016, 02:21:02 pm
I was reading about this briefly in your thread Mike. I'm booked in to get the clutch and flywheel fitted on 6th April so is it worth me ringing Alex to get a hard line before it goes in?Just went to order a Helix clutch from Awesome and they are having trouble with their cataloging and have recommended a Sachs Performance one. Does anyone have any experience with this brand? It's around £100 more, which is making my pockets feel even more inadequate than they already wereMate, email Alex. He's got Helix kits in stock. Got mine very quick at a good price last week.
alex@akstuning.com
This ^^ Alex has them on the shelf :happy2: I'd get one of t he clutch hardline too :innocent:
What exactly are the pros and cons?
Post by: vRSAlex on March 13, 2016, 02:23:16 pm
Post by: Tfsi_Mike on March 13, 2016, 02:26:10 pm
Only really need the hardline on the single mass kits. Not even tested the lines that I've made in house yet or with the dual mass setups.
Was the one you fitted on the vRS or on something else?
Post by: AJP on March 13, 2016, 02:27:45 pm
Post by: Tfsi_Mike on March 13, 2016, 02:30:35 pm
^^ There you go!
I'm mainly concerned about the clutch pipe popping off at the bulk head. I guess it must just be the SMF kits where that happens.
Post by: Neil 54 on March 13, 2016, 06:41:38 pm
Post by: pudding on March 14, 2016, 02:49:22 pm
Bite on the Helix is more abrupt than standard too, but you soon get used to it.
Don't get me wrong, it's far from unusable as a daily. My girlfriend has driven it, for 10 mins or so, and didn't even comment on the clutch weight, just said it was 'grabby' :smiley:
Post by: Neil 54 on March 14, 2016, 07:47:15 pm
Post by: pudding on March 16, 2016, 02:14:32 pm
Hi Pudding thanks for the reply so basically that means as Helix ages it will get heavier?
It will indeed.
Post by: MS1 on March 20, 2016, 04:28:18 pm
I've had the same problem in the last couple weeks which is gradually getting worse.From what I gather, an oem clutch should handle stage 1 levels of torque, but simply won't last anywhere near as long as it should.
With 130,000 miles on the clock I think it has done well.
Will an OE clutch simply not take the extra torque that stage 1 provides? I've done roughly 8,000 miles since the remap.
Obviously an uprated clutch is the way to go, but they are significantly more expensive.
I suppose it depends how long you plan to keep the car, and if further power mods are a possibility down the line. For me, I'll be keeping the GTI for a good 5+ more years and I am planning more power, so it wouldn't make sense to go for another oem clutch in my situation.
Also if you look at the job as a whole, done right with a new flywheel, plus labour, it's a dear job whichever way you look at it. The clutch itself is just one part of the job so you're not going to be saving a huge amount relatively.
I like the idea of having a clutch that you can put 400lb/ft through. Not sure the con rods will be too happy but that's just another a bridge to be crossed when it arises..
A brand new OEM clutch can cope with 300lbft, just. One that's beyond half worn, doesn't like it and has been demonstrated enough times now that it's almost a fact!
Also, bear in mind VW only rate their FWD turbo gearboxes to a maximum of 280lbft, so over-boosting our cars puts us all on borrowed time anyway....but I digress....
.....Just to add some context to this because forums tend to be black or white with these things..... I am talking about peak boost / torque when the car is over-geared (so 6th on the motorway), peak boost up a hill in 4th and sometimes 3rd. Most of the time on a flat or slight down hill and with the wind behind you, the clutch can cope with it. Throw a cold winter's day into the mix and the variables all change again!
Just prior to getting my clutch done and with Revo, it was spinning up 3rd like clockwork, in the dry. After it was custom mapped, it was barely wheel spinning at all and just didn't feel as responsive when in boost. Why? Because the damn clutch was slipping!!! Threw the helix in and it's 'f'ck me', what an animal!!!
I'd like to try a Helix clutch, but I must say, I've just had the OE LUK clutch replaced on my Mk5 after 97,500 miles, 70,000 of that has been with nigh on 300bhp/300lbft, it never slipped, I just had a bit of flywheel judder. Upon removal it was clear the clutch was still in a fair condition, maybe 75% worn, suggesting the OE LUK may be good for up to 100,000 miles, even on a near maxed out Ko3. I'm going to R Tech on Wednesday and there'll be another 75lbft torque, so I'll let you know how it handles it.
Post by: AJP on March 20, 2016, 04:37:15 pm
Good luck with that! I think the standard clutch is good for maybe 310-320lb/ft. 375lb/ft may be pushing it, but fingers crossed it holds up for you.I've had the same problem in the last couple weeks which is gradually getting worse.From what I gather, an oem clutch should handle stage 1 levels of torque, but simply won't last anywhere near as long as it should.
With 130,000 miles on the clock I think it has done well.
Will an OE clutch simply not take the extra torque that stage 1 provides? I've done roughly 8,000 miles since the remap.
Obviously an uprated clutch is the way to go, but they are significantly more expensive.
I suppose it depends how long you plan to keep the car, and if further power mods are a possibility down the line. For me, I'll be keeping the GTI for a good 5+ more years and I am planning more power, so it wouldn't make sense to go for another oem clutch in my situation.
Also if you look at the job as a whole, done right with a new flywheel, plus labour, it's a dear job whichever way you look at it. The clutch itself is just one part of the job so you're not going to be saving a huge amount relatively.
I like the idea of having a clutch that you can put 400lb/ft through. Not sure the con rods will be too happy but that's just another a bridge to be crossed when it arises..
A brand new OEM clutch can cope with 300lbft, just. One that's beyond half worn, doesn't like it and has been demonstrated enough times now that it's almost a fact!
Also, bear in mind VW only rate their FWD turbo gearboxes to a maximum of 280lbft, so over-boosting our cars puts us all on borrowed time anyway....but I digress....
.....Just to add some context to this because forums tend to be black or white with these things..... I am talking about peak boost / torque when the car is over-geared (so 6th on the motorway), peak boost up a hill in 4th and sometimes 3rd. Most of the time on a flat or slight down hill and with the wind behind you, the clutch can cope with it. Throw a cold winter's day into the mix and the variables all change again!
Just prior to getting my clutch done and with Revo, it was spinning up 3rd like clockwork, in the dry. After it was custom mapped, it was barely wheel spinning at all and just didn't feel as responsive when in boost. Why? Because the damn clutch was slipping!!! Threw the helix in and it's 'f'ck me', what an animal!!!
I'd like to try a Helix clutch, but I must say, I've just had the OE LUK clutch replaced on my Mk5 after 97,500 miles, 70,000 of that has been with nigh on 300bhp/300lbft, it never slipped, I just had a bit of flywheel judder. Upon removal it was clear the clutch was still in a fair condition, maybe 75% worn, suggesting the OE LUK may be good for up to 100,000 miles, even on a near maxed out Ko3. I'm going to R Tech on Wednesday and there'll be another 75lbft torque, so I'll let you know how it handles it.
Post by: MS1 on March 20, 2016, 05:29:53 pm
Post by: AJP on March 20, 2016, 05:51:13 pm
Fingers crossed indeed mate. The Stage 2+ hardware R-Tech suggest for 275-290bhp and 350-360lbft, doesn't include an uprated clutch, that only comes in at Stage 3.Well you're on a brand new clutch, and Niki will make sure the torque doesn't come in one big dollop. You might be ok.
Not sure if you've read the whole thread, but mine started slipping once I'd had a full Powervalve fitted on top of Stage 1 R-Tech. It's entirely likely the clutch was on its last legs anyway and the extra torque from the big downpipe just broke its back!
I do have plans for Stage 3 - a turbo upgrade as well as all the 2+ bits - so it just seemed like logic for me to go for the Helix.
Post by: MS1 on March 21, 2016, 06:42:20 am
We'll see come Wednesday I guess. I'm looking for a linear map, with the bulk of the torque coming in at 3,200-3,500rpm, where my car is currently lacking a little, I can't be dealing with a huge torque spike. I don't know if I just got lucky or whether or not my previous mapper specifically created a clutch friendly map, for sure there's no big torque spike, but I've been stage 2 for 70,000 miles, including a big downpipe and 200 cell sports cat and the clutch has always been very well behaved.
Post by: AJP on March 21, 2016, 04:38:54 pm
Yes bud, I read the whole thread. I saw that and guess you're right, it must have been on its last legs. You did the right thing uprating with your planned mods.Well typical Stage 2 k03 at R-Tech should yield about 330lb/ft, and 2+ like you say should be 360lb/ft at least.
We'll see come Wednesday I guess. I'm looking for a linear map, with the bulk of the torque coming in at 3,200-3,500rpm, where my car is currently lacking a little, I can't be dealing with a huge torque spike. I don't know if I just got lucky or whether or not my previous mapper specifically created a clutch friendly map, for sure there's no big torque spike, but I've been stage 2 for 70,000 miles, including a big downpipe and 200 cell sports cat and the clutch has always been very well behaved.
I take it you've got an upgraded pump installed? Intercooler?
Post by: MS1 on March 21, 2016, 08:56:21 pm
Post by: AJP on March 21, 2016, 09:08:02 pm
Yes bud. Loba HPFP and Forge TwintercoolerYou should get a great result. Make sure you post up your graphs once you're home!
Post by: MS1 on March 21, 2016, 09:18:32 pm
Post by: AJP on March 21, 2016, 09:43:27 pm
Of course I will mate. We'll see what the score is and how the car drives I'm sure I'll be thrilled. My current map is geared towards top end power and lbft, so I'd be happy to see the bhp come down from 292 if the lbft goes up from 287 to 350+, especially low down gains :)You won't be disappointed pal. Hope your tyres have plenty of tread!
Post by: MS1 on March 22, 2016, 08:20:10 am
Post by: AJP on March 22, 2016, 08:41:21 am
Post by: pudding on March 22, 2016, 11:41:29 am
Tyres - haha, I shredded my F1s to f'ck super quick. Pilot Sport 4s on now and the TC barely flickers now. I'm around 334lbft.
Post by: pudding on March 22, 2016, 11:48:44 am
If the Helix is defective, what about a diesel clutch? They're normally stronger, or are they the same as GTI?
Post by: AJP on March 22, 2016, 01:30:19 pm
Noticed that my gear shift is progressively getting stiffer and stiffer, especially 1st to 2nd in the mornings. I hope it's not the clutch binding. Is there anything else it can be?Hope it's not the Helix. Low fluid?
If the Helix is defective, what about a diesel clutch? They're normally stronger, or are they the same as GTI?
Post by: pudding on March 22, 2016, 02:10:03 pm
Noticed that my gear shift is progressively getting stiffer and stiffer, especially 1st to 2nd in the mornings. I hope it's not the clutch binding. Is there anything else it can be?Hope it's not the Helix. Low fluid?
If the Helix is defective, what about a diesel clutch? They're normally stronger, or are they the same as GTI?
So do I as fitting it was a pain in the backside. Do the brakes and clutch cylinders share the same reservoir? It had a new slave when the clutch went in, so it could be the master getting weak I suppose. Wouldn't surprise me after 100K and double the spring pressure in the clutch!
Post by: AJP on March 22, 2016, 02:19:04 pm
They do.Noticed that my gear shift is progressively getting stiffer and stiffer, especially 1st to 2nd in the mornings. I hope it's not the clutch binding. Is there anything else it can be?Hope it's not the Helix. Low fluid?
If the Helix is defective, what about a diesel clutch? They're normally stronger, or are they the same as GTI?
So do I as fitting it was a pain in the backside. Do the brakes and clutch cylinders share the same reservoir? It had a new slave when the clutch went in, so it could be the master getting weak I suppose. Wouldn't surprise me after 100K and double the spring pressure in the clutch!
Gearbox oil could also be a culprit. If things are a bit lumpy between changes in the morning it might point to it being degraded, and it'd in theory be worse when it's stone cold.
Re the MC, there were apparently two different sizes fitted to the mk5 GTI; one which is 22 cubic cm and the other 23 cubic cm. A '22' or '23' in the part number denotes which. Pretty sure the 23 was also used in the R32. Not sure if the 22 was actually superceded, but obviously get the 23 if you do end up changing it.
Post by: pudding on March 22, 2016, 03:10:11 pm
I put new gear oil in when I got the car a couple of years ago, so I guess it wouldn't hurt to refresh it again.
It feels stiff like the gearbox shafts are still under load, which is classic clutch drag. I suppose I could disconnect the cable ends from the gearbox and just double check the cables themselves aren't seizing up. Had that problem in my old Corrado now I think back on it.....
Where is the clutch MC, so I can check it for leaks? Haven't seen one on the bulkhead in the engine bay after a quick poke around. Still learning about these cars.
Post by: AJP on March 22, 2016, 03:17:50 pm
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F16%2F03%2F22%2F8acfe68c9d0864de31d8aeb8f6bdaa27.jpg&hash=557eae0645837abc005911683323035f89cc2464)
Post by: pudding on March 22, 2016, 04:03:39 pm
Post by: pudding on March 22, 2016, 04:05:34 pm
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fl434%2FSimmsled%2FIMG_20110206_145646.jpg&hash=44bc46dc1218b3a64a1ede3c3349ce062526bd08)
Post by: AJP on March 22, 2016, 04:18:39 pm
That looks like a lovely job!!!