MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: jaylufc17 on March 21, 2016, 07:23:50 pm
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I have a Golf GTI 3dr DSG 57 Plate. The car has been recently remapped to stage 1.
I have been told to flush out my oil and replace the current 5W-30 with 5W-40... Im not expert on this so just wanted advice...
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Millers nano drive CFS 5w40
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Castrol Edge 5w-30 is meant to be good too.
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5W40 is not essential. I would only use that if the engine is burning oil personally.
I use 5W30 Mobil 1 ESP in my Edition 30. Has all the relevant approvals and it always was and still is in the top rung of synthetic oils.
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Alex uses Millers NanoDrive CFS 5w40 in mine. If it comes with his stamp of approval it's the oil to have in my opinion.
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Another vote for Millers 5W40 Nanodrive, Ran it my Edition 30 and just done and Oil & Filter change last week on my Golf R using Millers too. :happy2:
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Mine is burning a lot less oil since changing to Millers Nanodrive. Good stuff I've heard. Is pricey though but not something you'll realistically notice over the course of a service interval.
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Millers FTW!!! :driver:
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Millers nano drive CFS 5w40
This.
Dave
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Short journeys, cold starts, normal driving in normal temperatures in the UK 5W-30.
Track use, monitor your oil pressure during the session and see if it falls off. If so, and assuming you're managing oil temperature, consider a different grade. Maybe here a 5W-40 is beneficial. A '40' grade oil is thicker at 100C than a '30' grade.
Above all, and this isn't brand specific, choose an Ester based oil. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/esters-in-synthetic-lubricants/ (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/esters-in-synthetic-lubricants/)
Any premium brand brand meeting the grades which is Ester based will do the job nicely.
Personally I would go with '30' grade as I know it will flow faster around my engine under normal operating conditions. Yes the pressure will be lower (remaining within prescribed limits), but the flow rate will be up ensuring fresher oil at all of the vital components.
If it burns a little oil so be it. This is also accepted and is a worthwhile trade off to ensure good flow of fresh oil around the engine.
Topping up every now and then also helps keep the oil fresh.
I do 4/5k miles a year and many of my journeys are 5 miles each way commuting. Because of this the oil temp by the time I get to work has just equalized with the coolant temp and therefore only just got anywhere near an optimal operating temperature. For this reason I do an oil change every 6 months, albeit without a filter at the intermediate change.
On a properly warmed engine the oil will be about 5-10 degrees warmer than coolant.