MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => How to Guides / Troubleshooting => Topic started by: Clgale1988 on April 30, 2016, 11:47:58 pm
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Hi guys i recently purchased a 55 plate mk5 golf gti now im getting some starting issues its alot worse if the car has been sat overnight or all day. But when you start the car it seems like it wants to cut out it splutters and the dar shakes abit and sounds like its going to die then after about 3 seconds it starts to run fine. The car does sometimes hunt slightly when on ideal but not always once it has been started drove turned off then started again it still does it but not as bad if you press throttle when start it kinda overides it abit. Any thoughts people
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Seems to be a common issue the starting thing on some of our cars, but, supposedly, and as far as I know, no one has yet found a cause/cure
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I had the same issue once but its totally cleared now on the gti :thinking:
Had it with my audi tt and when I replaced the crank sensor the problem disappeared for good. no eml fault codes nothing.
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I have no codes on dash or anything its really bad when start it after its been sat all night really want it sorted but no1 seems to know
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The problem is no one will ever know as it doesn't register on vagcom either. I'd put my pennies on a crank sensor as most of the cars I've worked on with starting issues from cold have had failing or dirty crank sensors with lots of deposits stuck to the magnet causing starting issues which were resolved by either cleaning or replacing the sensor. Could also be heavily clogged up cylinder head or injectors. Vagcom can tell you if your injectors are faulty if you have one and know how to use it?.
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I dont have 1 but i know someone who does. If crank sensor was dodgy would it still do it when its warm as its not as bad starting it when warm but very slightly does it
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Sorry does what, misfire?.
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Yea well stumbles and splutters abit when start dosnt do it as bad when its warm but its still there so would crank sensor still cause that
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Definitely a possibility.
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Coilpacks wouldnt cause it no?
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Plugs could also cause the problem if thr vehicle hasnt had a plug change for a few years so best check plugs and coils first if you haven't already done so.
Those are the basics tbh.
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Ok i will have a look got no record of plugs or coils been changed on it
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What spark plugs do they take?
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I have changed plugs, coil packs, fuel filter, had inlet cleaned and runner flaps removed to see if it was any of them, nope no joy. Tried priming the lpfp a few times also, no joy.
I know what you are saying with regards to not doing it was it's been run. It will start perfect if it hasn't been sat for 7+ hours.
To me it seems like a fuel pressure dropping issue, since it's only really apparent after long stands
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Il start with the basics for me 1st iv not long brought it and its always been there so want it sorted its done 100k now and cant find nowhere says coils been done plugs been done etc
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What spark plugs do they take?
Recommended plugs are NGK BKR7EIX Iridium plugs around £28 from ebay. I received mine in two days. Take one out of the car and have a look at it maybe even post a picture up in possibl?.
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The car also slightly hunts abit when idling
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Mine doesn't hunt at all, but that starting issue is there every day without fail
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The car also slightly hunts abit when idling
Could well be the infamous cylinder coked up with gunk as it's a very common problem with the tfsi engine. apparently the new polo's have 8 injectors to overcome this so worth a think about the tfsi with coking in the inlet side?. There are many threads on this and I replied to a good few of them myself when I first started using the forum to its full and never came off it :signLOL:
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The car also slightly hunts abit when idling
Could well be the infamous cylinder coked up with gunk as it's a very common problem with the tfsi engine. apparently the new polo's have 8 injectors to overcome this so worth a think about the tfsi with coking in the inlet side?. There are many threads on this and I replied to a good few of them myself when I first started using the forum to its full and never came off it :signLOL:
I'm wondering if this could be failing injectors, or clogged injector nozzles, pity there is no easy way of checking and or replacing them without the removal of the inlet manifold
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@Beej (http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=11339) once manifold if off you may as well clean the inlet side the head :signLOL:
You need vagcom on it to check the injector parameters. I checked for misfires last night but Oundle detect any.
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@Beej (http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=11339) once manifold if off you may as well clean the inlet side the head :signLOL:
You need vagcom on it to check the injector parameters. I checked for misfires last night but Oundle detect any.
I had it cleaned in March when rfd was done, which I why I am either considering injectors or lpfp, but from what I gather,the lpfp doesn't really generate any real pressure and that our engines/fuel supply setup is so that fuel pressure is only really generated on engine cranking/running. I doubt it would be the lpfp at fault, unless the valve on the return side of it has failed and fuel is returning back into the tank, rather than staying under pressure in the system hence the time taken before the starting splutter appears again
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Have you done a throttle body reset lately?. Cleaned it out?. Checked your pcv if not already done do? .
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So isit wortg doing plugs and coils 1st then if still there clean cylinder out and clean throttle body out?? Is all this easy to do?
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Throttle bodies a mother to do that's why I'm not touching it till the whole manifold comes off.
As I said, check your plugs and gapping on them first as that's an easy job. can't say swop your coils over as you don't have vagcom.
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How does the cylinder get coked up of its regulary had a oil change then surely it wont get that bad will it?
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Try this.
http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=79369.10;wap2
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Il try plugs and get some injector cleaner see if that works also i have only been running the car on normal unleaded no super unleaded or anything will that make a difference
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Do the basics as mentioned. you can try change the fuel to 97 ron super unleaded as it will smoothen out your drive but not sure how much it will help in the long run as the damage already seems to be done. I've used BP untimate and it makes the car feel a litre quicker on throttle response but I use regular 95 ron although should be running 97 as specified on the fuel cap but never bothers me. did a log on vagcom a while back and Dan_FR said it was running fine so I'm happy with that.
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/151123439925
These the correct plugs says for a civic but id imagine still fit the golf
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Make sure they are pre gapped to 0.8mm as recommended and you'll be fine :happy2:
Just checked they'll be perfect.
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Have you done a throttle body reset lately?. Cleaned it out?. Checked your pcv if not already done do? .
To be honest, no, I haven't done a throttle body reset. I have however replaced the pcv. One thing I did notice is that once the rfd was done, it's seems to be worse now than what it was also
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I need to do a few of these things myself tbh.
rfd?
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Runner flap delete.
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What he^ said!
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:stupid: :doh: :signLOL:
^^^
^^^
:drinking:
I've read on a few forums and here that it's a waste of money unless you go stage 3 or BT for some reason and I've also read that it's beneficial too adding a little extra horses and saves you the trouble of having runner flap issue but it needs mapping out?.
Someone tell me otherwise please?.
Another on the to do list :doh:
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I done it as I wanted the inlets cleaned and to be honest, the fact that they are prone from time to time to fail, and with mine showing faults, it was only a matter of time for me to either fix the fault or remove the issue completely. I am stage 2+ ko3, so wasn't expecting any real gains, but I have some nice noises from the exhaust on over run now!
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That's good to know someone who's done the delete but again does the mil code require mapping out.
sugar you're a stage 2 + I'd love to get there at some point as I'm bored of 200bph as my tt was 265 and to me a lot quicker than an R32 raced down the A13 from lakeside with my car full :signLOL:
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That's good to know someone who's done the delete but again does the mil code require mapping out.
sugar you're a stage 2 + I'd love to get there at some point as I'm bored of 200bph as my tt was 265 and to me a lot quicker than an R32 raced down the A13 from lakeside with my car full :signLOL:
I am running apr software, so when I bought the apr rfd kit, they map out the running flaps for you.
To be honest, I am not really happy with the performance of my car anyway, considering the costs and hardware I have fitted, hence why I have reverted to fault finding, ie the other topic we have spoken on regarding the actuator on the turbo.
But that is irrelevant in this topic, so I will keep that for another topic!
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Was never keen on apr for some unknown reason :signLOL:
So thats a yes to the mil needing mapping out or it will illuminate. Argh!!!
Hmm let's get back to the other topic lol
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Was never keen on apr for some unknown reason :signLOL:
So thats a yes to the mil needing mapping out or it will illuminate. Argh!!!
Hmm let's get back to the other topic lol
Which one???????
But in relation to apr, I am not faulting their map, I'm annoyed at my car! I have had both apr and revo stage 2+ files, and both peak bhp and torque were lower than expected and lower than most.
You may not get an eml to begin with, but you will get a rough idle after start up for approx 10/15 seconds
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That's kindly poops then isn't it?.
Why lower?, that because it's a custom map or just the way you cars set up?. do you have an uprated hpfp?.
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I am running a turbo back bcs powervalve with 200cel cat, revo intake, autotec hpfp internals, at the time a rev g dv valve, airtec intercooler, iridium plugs and r8 coils (although no performance benefit on these). Plus I am dsg, so shouldn't be any clutch issues. Both maps never even managed 300ftlbs. Although, the apr agent was the one who gave me the heads up on the turbo actuator being at fault. It ran 272.9 bhp 288ftlbs on revo and 267bhp 298ftlbs on apr. I have since had the inlet cleaned, a rfd done gb dv+ and will be changing out the airtec cooler for a mk6 r one, as that may also be affecting the torque due to the volume
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Wow that's sh*te for all you have replaced mod wise no offence intended :confused: thought a stage two would hit you around 300 mark with similar torque?.
Something doesn't add up as I'm reading people with stage 2 300+ or am I missing something here.
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Wow that's sh*te for all you have replaced mod wise no offence intended :confused: thought a stage two would hit you around 300 mark with similar torque?.
Something doesn't add up as I'm reading people with stage 2 300+ or am I missing something here.
2 different variants I think are confusing you.
Gti(ko3) rough idea of figures
Stage 1 240-255 bhp 290-310+ftlbs
Stage 2 255-270 bhp 310-330+ftlbs
Stage 2+ 270+bhp 320+ftlbs
Gti ed30 (ko4)
Stage 1 290-310 bhp
Stage 2 310-330 bhp
Stage 2+ 330+ bhp
All these are just rough numbers
I only have a gti (ko3)
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I was reading this off their website :confused:
The TFSi K03 based AXX BWA engines can be tuned upto:
Stage 1 custom remap 230-250 hp 290-310 lbft
Stage 1+ custom remap 255-260 hp 335-350 lbft
Stage 2 custom remap 265-275 hp 315-330 lbft
Stage 2+ custom remap 275-290 hp 355-360 lbft
Stage 3 custom remap 330-350 hp 350-370 lbft
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http://r-techperformance.co.uk/2-0-tfsi-tuning/
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Wow that's sh*te for all you have replaced mod wise no offence intended :confused: thought a stage two would hit you around 300 mark with similar torque?.
Something doesn't add up as I'm reading people with stage 2 300+ or am I missing something here.
2 different variants I think are confusing you.
Gti(ko3) rough idea of figures
Stage 1 240-255 bhp 290-310+ftlbs
Stage 2 255-270 bhp 310-330+ftlbs
Stage 2+ 270+bhp 320+ftlbs
Gti ed30 (ko4)
Stage 1 290-310 bhp
Stage 2 310-330 bhp
Stage 2+ 330+ bhp
All these are just rough numbers
I only have a gti (ko3)
Are they taking out :booty: then?.
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Yeah they are all custom numbers. Apr and revo are really generic maps, so number are normally lower, but mine are well off.
R tech have had stage 1 numbers stronger than my 2+ ones!
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Wow that's sh*te for all you have replaced mod wise no offence intended :confused: thought a stage two would hit you around 300 mark with similar torque?.
Something doesn't add up as I'm reading people with stage 2 300+ or am I missing something here.
2 different variants I think are confusing you.
Gti(ko3) rough idea of figures
Stage 1 240-255 bhp 290-310+ftlbs
Stage 2 255-270 bhp 310-330+ftlbs
Stage 2+ 270+bhp 320+ftlbs
Gti ed30 (ko4)
Stage 1 290-310 bhp
Stage 2 310-330 bhp
Stage 2+ 330+ bhp
All these are just rough numbers
I only have a gti (ko3)
Are they taking out :booty: then?.
What do you mean?
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Annnnnnnnnnnnnd anyway back to the topic. What it like cleaning the cylinder on the fsi engine?
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Annnnnnnnnnnnnd anyway back to the topic. What it like cleaning the cylinder on the fsi engine?
Yeah, sorry about that, sidetracked too easily!
It's a bit of job removing the intake manifold supposedly. I payed someone to do it, as the weather was poor and I already had a fault on the intake to which I didn't want to completely fail.
There is no real way of removing the built up carbon deposits with chemicals etc, needs to be done by scraping or media blasting
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Annnnnnnnnnnnnd anyway back to the topic. What it like cleaning the cylinder on the fsi engine?
Sorry buddy lost connection :signLOL:
It's a nightmare to do I'll send you a link.
Two ways to do this or pay to have it done £350+
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Would this do the job theres a company local to me who does something called Terraclean have a read says removes carbon build up etc
http://www.paleclassics.co.uk/terraclean.html
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No, no chemical will shift the built up carbon, need to get in there and scrape or have it blasted off with walnut shells or similar media
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So why would they say it removes all build up in engines
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There was someone on here before who payed for it to be done, and done before and after dyno's, and I think he also stuck a camera in to see it, and it made no difference what so ever. If you have a look at some of the videos on you tube, and even the ones posted earlier you can clearly see how gummed up and how much effort is required to remove the build up.
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Yea did see that earlier seems like a right ballache to sort out
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I dont know if it doesn't help the car as per what Beej says but I'm going to give it a shot as I've heard and read good things about de coking but it is a pain to scrape the gunk out as you can see.
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That dosnt make sense lol
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sorry typo :stupid: phone re read it now lol
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So what was you trying to say haha
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So what was you trying to say haha
I'm trying to say regardless of what others say, I'm going to de coke the head and hope for the best :signLOL: