MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: exodus_ste on September 14, 2016, 11:49:22 am
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A little bit of a request to anyone who has done the manual cleaning of the inlet valves - what parts am i going to need if any?
I dont mean scrapers/brushes etc but gaskets or seals that i will need to replace, or parts to change whilst doing the job.
Im doing an intercooler change at the same time so access will be good, i just want to make sure i have everything ready to go.
Thanks
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Should only need an Injector seal kit (x4) and an intake manifold seal. Possibly a throttle body seal too, if you remove it.
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Also the injector tool
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/BERGEN-Tools-18pc-Fsi-Injector-Remover-Puller-Set-VAG-NEW-5536-/252460422930?hash=item3ac7d05712%3Ag%3AXMsAAOSw2zlXhrOL&_trkparms=pageci%253Aec294155-7a8e-11e6-ac9a-74dbd180da38%257Cparentrq%253A2949f3141570a2b0a3a1e5f1fffe8389%257Ciid%253A1
Iv got all the stuff together for doing this I was going to use crushed walnuts in a media blaster that's what the bmw dealers seem to be using on there direct injection engines just scared of making a mess of it
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Blimey, all that to remove and reseal the injectors! Yikes. When I had my injectors replaced, we just pulled the injectors out by hand, stuck the new teflon seals on (by hand) and popped them back in! Seemed pretty easy? Well, the Teflon seals were fiddly buggers, but doable without tools.
AKS tuning do walnut blasting, which is probably the option I'll take when the time comes.
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A little bit of a request to anyone who has done the manual cleaning of the inlet valves - what parts am i going to need if any?
I dont mean scrapers/brushes etc but gaskets or seals that i will need to replace, or parts to change whilst doing the job.
Im doing an intercooler change at the same time so access will be good, i just want to make sure i have everything ready to go.
Thanks
I did this recently, as already stated, Intake manifold gasket - 06F 129 717 D
Injector seal kit x 4 - 06D 998 907 (Thats for S3/Ed30)
I did the runner flap delete also, did you consider this?
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I'd replace the pcv with the r tech delete one and then you can sit back knowing your valves will never get clogged up in crap ever again.
Not sure what that injector tool is for :confused: like above the injectors will just pull out by hand.
Oh and a air line is very handy when doing this kind of job if you have one.
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The injector tool is to help you fit the new teflon seals and resize them after you have stretched them onto the injectors
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I'd replace the pcv with the r tech delete one and then you can sit back knowing your valves will never get clogged up in crap ever again.
I wish that were the case! They still get carboned up again with a PCV delete. The only thing that keeps them clean permanently is a petrol wash.
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I've done a couple of inlet cleans and never removed the injectors. As long as it's not disturbed which luckily was the case both times, just replace the 4 blue seals at the top of the injectors.
As already mentioned though, if you do want to remove the injectors, they pull out easily by hand and seals are swapped with out any problems.
Carbon off was used to break down the carbon. It's pretty harsh stuff but makes an easy job of it! Pointing out the obvious but just make sure you close off both valves by turning over the crank if you use it. Not ideal to get that stuff dripping down to you combustion chamber. Use an old hoover to suck out all the old crap once cleaned.
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I'd replace the pcv with the r tech delete one and then you can sit back knowing your valves will never get clogged up in crap ever again.
I wish that were the case! They still get carboned up again with a PCV delete. The only thing that keeps them clean permanently is a petrol wash.
R tech one deletes both front and rear pipes from feeding the crap back into the air intake, this is the only REAL pcv delete out there.
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Thanks for all the info guys.
fab5freddy - i will order these bits right away.
Just called rtech to order a PCV delete but they are closed today. Was going to look at the forge kit with catch can but its quite costly!
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I'd replace the pcv with the r tech delete one and then you can sit back knowing your valves will never get clogged up in crap ever again.
I wish that were the case! They still get carboned up again with a PCV delete. The only thing that keeps them clean permanently is a petrol wash.
R tech one deletes both front and rear pipes from feeding the crap back into the air intake, this is the only REAL pcv delete out there.
You'll still get carbon build up on the valves from exhaust reversion and oil dripping down the valve stems, but it should take longer to build up without PCV crud adding to it.
The amount of posts I see on the FB group about people fitting PCV deletes and then getting tonnes of blue oil smoke is unreal. Won't be going down that road myself!
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Yeah because all the other so called deletes only delete the front pipe and leave the rear crank breather in place. The only thing passing over the valves is air with the r tech delete. Yeah ok there may still be some oil coming past the valve stem oil seals but that will vary engine to engine and won't be anything like the gunk that the pcv throws into the valve. The r tech delete is around £120 from memory (correct me if I'm wrong) so it's a no brainier to clean valves and fit one of them.
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hmmm maybe i'll just go down the route of fitting a new oem PCV. Engine is on 80k nearly so i dont think it will need doing again for a while once its had a good clean.
Are there actually any performance benefits of PCV delete or alike?
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You get a fresher inlet charge with a PCV bypass. PCV is basically a mixture of air, exhaust gas and oil vapour. Nice! Whether that shows on the dyno as a performance gain remains to be seen, but it'll be a very small gain, if there is one.
Worth noting also a full PCV delete requires dumping crank case gases to atmosphere, which is an MOT fail.
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@exodus_ste (http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=5277) - Thanks for starting this thread buddy. I need to do exactly the same job and this is making very interesting reading!
@fab5freddy (http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=3064) - How did you tackle this job mate? Did you go DIY or bring it to a specialist?
@stuart-88 (http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=7545) - Am I right in thinking that three of the inlet valves will be closed at any one time and only one open?
I just noticed you mentioned that two will be closed at a time? I definitely don't want any of the "carbon off" leaking down the cylinder bores :scared:
I wanna make sure I am getting this right :happy2:
I was told using petrol to clean the valves is safer. But I imagine the petrol wouldn't be nearly as effective at removing the crap as carbon off? would you agree?
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Yeah just pop each cylinder onto TDC before you begin the scrubbage.
Yeah carbon off is serious stuff. Oven cleaner basically, but strong! Way better than petrol for initial cleaning.
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As above, just turn the crank by hand and put it into TDC. 2 inlet valves per bore so just do one cylinder at a time, clean it all out and move on to the next :happy2:
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As above, just turn the crank by hand and put it into TDC. 2 inlet valves per bore so just do one cylinder at a time, clean it all out and move on to the next :happy2:
Yeah just pop each cylinder onto TDC before you begin the scrubbage.
Yeah carbon off is serious stuff. Oven cleaner basically, but strong! Way better than petrol for initial cleaning.
Thanks guys :happy2: I really appreciate the feedback :happy2:
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Hey Dave, I took it to a local specialist for walnut blasting. Did the the same time as fitting the TTE and the runner flap delete.
There are no VW specialist walnut blasters down here, so took it to a Mini specialist :happy2:
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All good info coming through here. I'm probably going to have a crack at this within the next few weeks so i'll post my findings!
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Thanks for all the info guys.
fab5freddy - i will order these bits right away.
Just called rtech to order a PCV delete but they are closed today. Was going to look at the forge kit with catch can but its quite costly!
Don't do it buddy you'll forever regret it. stick to oem pcv and you'll have no fume issues smoking issues. Also forge are absolutely sh*** :doh:
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Thanks for all the info guys.
fab5freddy - i will order these bits right away.
Just called rtech to order a PCV delete but they are closed today. Was going to look at the forge kit with catch can but its quite costly!
Don't do it buddy you'll forever regret it. stick to oem pcv and you'll have no fume issues smoking issues. Also forge are absolutely sh*** :doh:
Where did you vent yours, into the dash board? Once you've cleaned the inlet, it's one of the best things you can do for the engine. It doesn't 100% eliminate the carbon build up, but it certainly helps it.
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Thanks for all the info guys.
fab5freddy - i will order these bits right away.
Just called rtech to order a PCV delete but they are closed today. Was going to look at the forge kit with catch can but its quite costly!
Don't do it buddy you'll forever regret it. stick to oem pcv and you'll have no fume issues smoking issues. Also forge are absolutely sh*** :doh:
Where did you vent yours, into the dash board? Once you've cleaned the inlet, it's one of the best things you can do for the engine. It doesn't 100% eliminate the carbon build up, but it certainly helps it.
If only :signLOL:
Way too many complaints about the delete and fumes venting back into the car so many put the oem pcv back on stage 2 + I know a few have reverted back to the pcv as they complain about the black smoke pouring out the exhaust.
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How much does walnut blasting cost?
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Ok i have done a bit of research and im going to stick with a new OEM PCV. Ok they dont last forever but they arent expensive and i certainly cant be doing with smoke and smells...
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You get a fresher inlet charge with a PCV bypass. PCV is basically a mixture of air, exhaust gas and oil vapour. Nice! Whether that shows on the dyno as a performance gain remains to be seen, but it'll be a very small gain, if there is one.
Worth noting also a full PCV delete requires dumping crank case gases to atmosphere, which is an MOT fail.
Only if they spot it :happy2:
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If only :signLOL:
Way too many complaints about the delete and fumes venting back into the car so many put the oem pcv back on stage 2 + I know a few have reverted back to the pcv as they complain about the black smoke pouring out the exhaust.
Some have complaints but not all. I fitted the Forge oil catch can since it was the best I found on the market at the time. Only later R-Tech started selling the complete delete solution.
Mine is working well and I don't see any black smoke pouring out of the exhaust. I do have to empty the can from time to time because it gathers oily water and muck.