MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: croak2012 on November 11, 2016, 05:42:25 pm
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Hi,
spent all this money on das 6 pro, chemical guys green pads and some super resin polish by autoglym....
I clayed the car before polishing. looking at bonnet under street light and you can see all the scratch marks?
yes the are really fin but is this not the whole point of spending money on machine?
The green 5.5 pad only had polish on the inside bit - did I not use enough pressure on the pad?
is srp a compound? or just a finishing product because did not see much correction.
how do i clean the pads ? should i wait for them to dry before using them again?
thanks
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SRP is a filler with a mild cut. I'm not an expert but I'd imagine if you started with something slightly more abrasive you might get better results. Hopefully someone with a better idea can tell you what to use specifically.
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You should let the weight of the machine do all of the work and no pressure. And is it a rotary or dual action orbital polisher?
Also might be worth trying a better compound. I use this and had good results.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Meguiars-ME-G17216-Meguair%60s-G17216EU/dp/B002KKCLO6
And you won't get rid of all swirl marks straight away. Some panels require 2 or 3 going over.
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Also with my pads I let them soak in warm soapy water for an hour or so then hand wash them clean in the same water.
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Maybe you're right - I've heard vw golf paint is really hard - maybe should of used orange pad first...
and/or a more abrasive compound like the one you suggest.
one you finished washing pad - do you use it straight away or let it dry out because I did a few panels and then washed the pad in water and
then when I used it again on another panel it looked like it didn't work as well?
I used a tiny tiny bit of pressure to have a constant amount applied to surface...
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Maybe you're right - I've heard vw golf paint is really hard - maybe should of used orange pad first...
and/or a more abrasive compound like the one you suggest.
one you finished washing pad - do you use it straight away or let it dry out because I did a few panels and then washed the pad in water and
then when I used it again on another panel it looked like it didn't work as well?
I used a tiny tiny bit of pressure to have a constant amount applied to surface...
You can press dry the pads but I prefer to use them dry as otherwise the compound will water down loads.
And keep trying. It's a learning curve and I'm still learning every time I do it.
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Also with my pads I let them soak in warm soapy water for an hour or so then hand wash them clean in the same water.
@slix (http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=14819)
Interesting, I've managed to destroy 2 pads already but I've used them dry... what's the reason for soaking them? :thinking:
I also think I'm using too much pressure as it looks like the edge of the backing plate is cutting into the pad.
As has already been said, it's a learning curve.
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Also with my pads I let them soak in warm soapy water for an hour or so then hand wash them clean in the same water.
@slix (http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=14819)
Interesting, I've managed to destroy 2 pads already but I've used them dry... what's the reason for soaking them? :thinking:
I also think I'm using too much pressure as it looks like the edge of the backing plate is cutting into the pad.
As has already been said, it's a learning curve.
I only soak them after I've finished as to loosen the dried Polish ready for a rub with my hands to clear it all off, then let air dry.
When I first start with a fresh pad I just give it a misting of water once with a spray bottle to help avoid burn as pad will be bone dry.
And said said you don't have to press down as the machines are usually pretty weighty and the weight alone should be perfect.
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Also with my pads I let them soak in warm soapy water for an hour or so then hand wash them clean in the same water.
@slix (http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=14819)
Interesting, I've managed to destroy 2 pads already but I've used them dry... what's the reason for soaking them? :thinking:
I also think I'm using too much pressure as it looks like the edge of the backing plate is cutting into the pad.
As has already been said, it's a learning curve.
I only soak them after I've finished as to loosen the dried Polish ready for a rub with my hands to clear it all off, then let air dry.
When I first start with a fresh pad I just give it a misting of water once with a spray bottle to help avoid burn as pad will be bone dry.
And said said you don't have to press down as the machines are usually pretty weighty and the weight alone should be perfect.
Ah ok, thought you were soaking before using.
I have dampened the pads before using, so not too far out then, just got to get used to not pressing too hard as it's getting expensive!
How long should a pad last roughly? (Or how many times to polish a full car?)
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Sorry but Autoglym is the Wrong Polish!
Autoglym SRP simply won't work and was never really designed to be used on a Machine polisher it is for use by hand. Its a mild hand polish with fillers.
You need a proper compound that still works after the 5th or 6th pass and at high speed, I can imagine you just end up with a mess after a while and a pad thats soaked through.
Regardless of how much pressure you apply you won't get the results.
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My mate used meguirs 105 compound with a DA on my black gti, then ultimate polish and finally the ultimate wax.
Most of it is spot on except for some deeper scratches on the nearside which I might try again with something else.
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Sorry but Autoglym is the Wrong Polish!
Autoglym SRP simply won't work and was never really designed to be used on a Machine polisher it is for use by hand. Its a mild hand polish with fillers.
You need a proper compound that still works after the 5th or 6th pass and at high speed, I can imagine you just end up with a mess after a while and a pad thats soaked through.
Regardless of how much pressure you apply you won't get the results.
I was kind of thinking this ... will buy some meguires tomorrow and start again!
can you use autoglym hd wax with polisher?
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watch some das 6 how too videos on youtube. best place to start
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would you guys recommend meguires 105 or mezerna 400 from halfords - I will do the car with one of these compounds and then maybe AG SRP ?
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I highly recommend that anyone reads this thread before using a machine to polish a car:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=63859
Chris
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As already stated the SRP has a lot of filler to hide defects but after a few washes these fillers come out and defects will show again. It also has very little cut so will not remove/correct defects very much if it all.
Something like Megs 105 has a lot more cut but can leave polish inflicted marks/haze/buffer trails which need to be removed with something like Megs 205 and a lighter polishing pad... this is all very general stuff though as every car reacts differently to paint, especially if panels have been repainted.
Chris
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Yeah gotta agree about every car being diff i worked for ages on my last car a Bmw e90 couldnt really get any decent results with a dual action on hex pads but used the same products and technique on my mums skoda fabia with some amazing results.
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what if i use hd wax after SRP - will this not seal the filler for a long time?
As already stated the SRP has a lot of filler to hide defects but after a few washes these fillers come out and defects will show again. It also has very little cut so will not remove/correct defects very much if it all.
Something like Megs 105 has a lot more cut but can leave polish inflicted marks/haze/buffer trails which need to be removed with something like Megs 205 and a lighter polishing pad... this is all very general stuff though as every car reacts differently to paint, especially if panels have been repainted.
Chris
...there are also a few deep scratches that have been filled in with a steel grey paint pen but is slightly lighter than the rest of paint work - before I start using an agressive compound is there something I can do about these ?
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as said several times. SRP wont do bugger all. i've bought a range of the menzerna compounds. ranging from heavy cut all the way down to finishing polish. mines diamond black which ive been told is probably the hardest paint of all the colours to correct. machine polishing is an art and you wont get it right first or second time. i suggest watching the 3 part video series from the junkman on youtube
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I highly recommend that anyone reads this thread before using a machine to polish a car:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=63859
Chris
I would second this. It's a long read but worth it if you're serious about keeping your car looking it's best.
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I use...
Meguiars 105 with Orange Hex-Logic Pad (Correction Stage/Heavy Cut)
Meguiars 205 with White Hex-Logic Pad (Refining/Finishing Stage)
On a car I have never done before it would take many hours to prepare the Paint for the polishing stage.....Pre Wash, Fall out removal, Tar Removal, Wash by 2 Bucket Method and Lambswool Mitt, Dry and then Machine Polish. Then a Suitable Wax or Sealant to protect.
Easily 10-12 Hours work for proper detail and Machine Polish.
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what if i use hd wax after SRP - will this not seal the filler for a long time?
The wax might help seal the fillers in a little longer but not for much longer.
Chris
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I use...
Meguiars 105 with Orange Hex-Logic Pad (Correction Stage/Heavy Cut)
Meguiars 205 with White Hex-Logic Pad (Refining/Finishing Stage)
On a car I have never done before it would take many hours to prepare the Paint for the polishing stage.....Pre Wash, Fall out removal, Tar Removal, Wash by 2 Bucket Method and Lambswool Mitt, Dry and then Machine Polish. Then a Suitable Wax or Sealant to protect.
Easily 10-12 Hours work for proper detail and Machine Polish.
thanks..
1) I have already bought green and black hex pads - would these do? I was going to order more abrasive orange for headlight restore... ok i'll order order orange 5.5 and 4" but black should be fine for 205?
2)I will order 105/205 meguires but my paintwork is already quite good so is it not safer to use ultimate compound instead with DA? does 205 have oils too because I like the fact that ultimate compound had oils to make paintwork darker and richer - especially with grey car colour?
3) Autoglym Super Resin polish is totally useless with DA - just scuffs up the paintwork worse!
4) I have a few small pen paint corrected scratches - they are tiny but annoy me because the paint is slightly different shade - can I leave these to sort later date?
5) I have already spent about 3 and half hours with Autoglym clay bar and karcher snowfoam etc so it is prepped for polishing but should I now remove
SRP before 105?
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I use...
Meguiars 105 with Orange Hex-Logic Pad (Correction Stage/Heavy Cut)
Meguiars 205 with White Hex-Logic Pad (Refining/Finishing Stage)
On a car I have never done before it would take many hours to prepare the Paint for the polishing stage.....Pre Wash, Fall out removal, Tar Removal, Wash by 2 Bucket Method and Lambswool Mitt, Dry and then Machine Polish. Then a Suitable Wax or Sealant to protect.
Easily 10-12 Hours work for proper detail and Machine Polish.
Ditto for me on my black paintwork with the Megs 105 then 205. Gotten rid of a number of swirls and scuffs and definitely recommend this combo. @ OP - There's a few pics in my build thread (link in sig) if you want to see.
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thanks cocoapuff - I had a look - looks good - my paintwork is actually really good but in the wrong light and you are very close you can see the light scratches ...
I will try the meguires - if you are still considering using srp with das 6 pro - waste of time! don't bother
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It depends what you're trying to achieve though. SRP is perfect for someone who wants to add a little gloss and likes spending a little time every couple of months polishing their car.
If it's to correct defects then yes it is pretty much useless.
When you say the "wrong light" what kind of lighting to you mean? Direct sunlight, LED light, Halogen light, strip light, street lights, garage forecourt lights? Different light sources will show defects differently and in order to get a full correction on a car can easily take upwards of 20 to 30 hours, that would be for a full wash and decontamination (very very very important to make sure paint is free of contaminants or the machine polishing pads can pick this up and inflict damage rather than remove it) 2 or 3 stage polish and then topping it off with a last stage/step product (lsp) that is some kind of wax/coating/sealant etc.
Chris
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As above, RTFM mate. SRP is not a cutting compound and there is a wealth of information on the net to tell you this.
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I read plenty of stuff before I started but the SRP comes with the autoglym claybar kit - and searches revealed that I oculd use SRP with my DA...
In conclusion - I have found that SRP is no use at all for cutting and that a more abrasive polish is needed - I have ordered meguairs 105 and 205 and various hex pads with different cutting abilities ( orange, green and black) for my Das pro 6 DA .
Aslo ,I have realised that every cars paintwork is different and that You need a small test patch to start with least abrasive combination of pad/polish and after
reviewing results you can go with more abrasive combo...
thank you and good night! :congrats: