MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => How to Guides / Troubleshooting => Topic started by: StuF on February 15, 2017, 09:29:06 pm
-
Had the car off the road for 5 months with the battery disconnected whilst I was in the Falklands
Just back now and have started the job of putting the car back on the road
When I connected the battery initially I had the usual Traction Control, Tyre Pressure Sensor and Air Bag Lights on which I solved by rotating the the wheel to the left and right for 5 secs and driving slowly forward which cleared all the dash lights and all was good.
However - upon taking the freshly taxed GTI down the road after a good wash and polish when attempting some spirited acceleration the engine seems to be suffering with a fuel cut situation, no dash lights or check engine lights though.
With gentle acceleration it drives fine and have just put a fresh tank of super in however under load it wont rev - gets to about 3k rpm and cuts the engine back to idle
This evening a good friend came round and we scanned the car, below are the results of the scan
Obviously the engine speed sensor and low pressure fuel sensor are showing a fault however would the first issue of power supply low at terminal 30 cause all the reported issues?
Any help greatly appreciated - car was working perfectly before I went on "holiday" and would rather sort the issue myself rather than paying for the rectification to be carried out
Wednesday,15,February,2017,21:08:25:41182
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 7 x86
VCDS Version: 17.1.3.0
Data version: 20170203 DS267.2
www.Ross-Tech.com
VIN: License Plate:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.clb
Control Module Part Number: 1K0 907 115 Q HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Software Coding: 0403000318070160
Work Shop Code: WSC 00132 210 81461
VCID: 34675AB6579BB1E13D-8060
4 Faults Found:
001089 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0441 - 002 - Incorrect Flow - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 282888 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 07:33:54
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 839 /min
Load: 19.6 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 69.0∞C
Temperature: 26.0∞C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.224 V
005634 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 002 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: -40.0∞C
Temperature: -40.0∞C
Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
Voltage: 0.000 V
000801 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28)
P0321 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0
009529 - Low Pressure Fuel Sensor (G410)
P2539 - 001 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 284526 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 14:29:18
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1203 /min
Load: 32.5 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 18.0∞C
Temperature: 10.0∞C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.224 V
Readiness: 0000 0000
-
Evap fault is nothing to worry about, I've also seen power supply 30 popping up quite a bit with no problems.
Engine speed sensor and low pressure fuel sensor are your likely candidates.
Is it mapped? Was it mapped? Maybe it needs a hpfp and corresponding components?
-
It will be the engine speed sensor. Aka crank sensor.
When the engine gets to 3k and dies,do the clocks go mental and flash on and off?
I had this exact issue a few years ago.
-
Cheers for the replys guys. Engine is standard and nearly on 180k so doing well
Rich - yep gets to about 3k and the gauges just drop and die flicking back and forth
Will nip out to get a crank sensor and report back
-
Yep... sounds the same as what I had. Luckily Alex had one lying around that he swapped over for free :smiley:
-
Definitely crank sensor and amazing it lasted for 180K!
Ignore low voltage on terminal 30. That is basically the main battery supply to the fuse box and if the battery goes flat, or disconnected whilst doing work, it logs it as a fault.
-
Thanks again for the reply's
Is this the correct replacement item - dont really want to drive the car till its sorted
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Golf-MK5-2-0-GTI-Genuine-Lemark-Camshaft-Position-Sensor-Replacement/361507684823?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41415%26meid%3De9e8d11b8bd5439e9b92f17e6195fcb5%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D291788396185
Im guessing its a straightforward swap?
Shouldnt the low voltage terminal 30 dissapear now the battery is charged and reconnected
These faults were recorded after clearing all the old ones?
Do you think it is worth replacing the low fuel pressure sender at the same time or is that failing because its getting the incorrect reading from the camshaft sensor?
-
That is the cam sensor mate, the one you need is the crank sensor, or 'Engine Speed Sensor'. It's more money I'm afraid!
I would only use a dealer one personally. It's a critical sensor and not worth risking a cheapy ebay one.
Yeah the terminal 30 error I've had dozens of times but it always stays gone once cleared and it's happy with the voltage. If it keeps coming back with a decent battery, you might actually have an issue that needs looking into. It the battery voltage drops too low during cranking, that can also trigger a fault.
Try the crank sensor first, disconnect the battery and touch the terminals together a few times to do a full 'capacative discharge' reset, reconnect, drive it around for approx 20 miles with soft and hard throttle inputs so that it adapts, then recheck for fault codes.
-
Cool thanks for that - have ordered a genuine Bosh Crank Sensor and will report back when I have replaced the offending sensor and followed your instructions
Is it an easy replacement? Suppose I will do some googling!
-
I don't recall Alex moaning about it too much so my guess is it's not hard to replace.
-
It'll be on the front side of the block, adjacent to the gearbox bell housing. Hopefully it's not buried behind the oil filter housing like it is on the R32!
-
Well I am happy to report that I have today managed to replace 3 of the cars sensors
Camshaft Position Sensor - easy takes 5 mins
Low Fuel Pressure Sensor - again 5 min job
And the Crank Sensor - my god that is a job I never ever want to do again - took me hours and hours!
Also replaced the oil and oil filter with some lovely Mobil 1 0w40
Went for a 45min test drive and it pulls like a train and revs to the redline like a scalded cat!
Successful day all round! Just need my buddy to come round again to clear the codes and Im good!
Thanks again for all the advice and help - much appreciated :happy2:
-
Well done :happy2:
Yeah the crank sensor is a b1tch isn't it!
-
Cheers mate :happy2:
Yep dont want to have to do that one again!
All codes cleared now and is back to normal pulling like a train and running sweet!
:drinking: