Post by: AJP on March 30, 2017, 10:05:36 pm
I know Febi are a decent brand (and probably make the OEM ones anyway) but I'm a bit wary of 'OEM replacement' parts - the kind you'd get off ECP - after fitting some Pagid discs that don't seem that great.
It's an assumption at this stage that proper OEM RS3 mounts from the dealer are going to be considerably more expensive than the Febi equivalent, so does anyone have an idea of price, with bearings?
Cheers
Post by: Andy on March 30, 2017, 10:35:04 pm
Post by: MIJ_JAGGER on March 30, 2017, 11:04:42 pm
Post by: Shoduchi on March 31, 2017, 01:32:24 am
I paid €81 for both RS3/TT top mounts and bearings (the bearings are the same in GTI and RS3/TT).
Post by: Dan_FR on March 31, 2017, 07:56:55 am
Post by: AJP on March 31, 2017, 09:15:42 am
Post by: Shoduchi on March 31, 2017, 09:29:17 am
I have Febi on mine. Put them on last year when chasing a knocking noise I couldn't find. No complaints so far and they were around £55 a pair with the bearings
You can keep us posted on how long they last. I hope mine last around 6 years. I try to avoid bad roads. :laugh:
Post by: Paradox1 on March 31, 2017, 09:43:19 am
i Have a spare if anyone needs them
Post by: pudding on March 31, 2017, 03:12:46 pm
Febi stuff for the aftermarket is complete trash in my experience, *especially* when it comes to rubber mountings. For sake of 40 quid, I'd rather not have to redo the work after 5000 miles or so.
Post by: AJP on March 31, 2017, 03:25:25 pm
Just put dealer GTI ones on. I don't think S3 ones are necessary as it's a lighter car. If OE GTI ones last for 10 years, I can't see the need for 'uprated' ones personally, unless of course you're going for Ground Control caster plates, in which case you have my full endorsement :grin:I've heard the RS3 mounts are a bit cheaper.
Febi stuff for the aftermarket is complete trash in my experience, *especially* when it comes to rubber mountings. For sake of 40 quid, I'd rather not have to redo the work after 5000 miles or so.
But point taken. I'll call in at the dealer tomorrow.
Post by: pudding on March 31, 2017, 08:40:10 pm
Just put dealer GTI ones on. I don't think S3 ones are necessary as it's a lighter car. If OE GTI ones last for 10 years, I can't see the need for 'uprated' ones personally, unless of course you're going for Ground Control caster plates, in which case you have my full endorsement :grin:I've heard the RS3 mounts are a bit cheaper.
Febi stuff for the aftermarket is complete trash in my experience, *especially* when it comes to rubber mountings. For sake of 40 quid, I'd rather not have to redo the work after 5000 miles or so.
But point taken. I'll call in at the dealer tomorrow.
Cool if they are. I haven't looked into the differences, but I assume the S3 uses the same bearing, but stiffer rubber? Which means the bearing life will be no different to the GTI part, but the rubber bit should last a bit longer.
My dealer mate did me a pair of GTI TMs for about 80 quid iirc.
Sorry to be blunt about the febi parts. Been there in the past and VW stuff is just better in the long run mate :happy2:
Post by: AJP on March 31, 2017, 08:48:59 pm
No worries mate, it's why I asked the question! So it'll definitely be OEM after seeing the consensus.Just put dealer GTI ones on. I don't think S3 ones are necessary as it's a lighter car. If OE GTI ones last for 10 years, I can't see the need for 'uprated' ones personally, unless of course you're going for Ground Control caster plates, in which case you have my full endorsement :grin:I've heard the RS3 mounts are a bit cheaper.
Febi stuff for the aftermarket is complete trash in my experience, *especially* when it comes to rubber mountings. For sake of 40 quid, I'd rather not have to redo the work after 5000 miles or so.
But point taken. I'll call in at the dealer tomorrow.
Cool if they are. I haven't looked into the differences, but I assume the S3 uses the same bearing, but stiffer rubber? Which means the bearing life will be no different to the GTI part, but the rubber bit should last a bit longer.
My dealer mate did me a pair of GTI TMs for about 80 quid iirc.
Sorry to be blunt about the febi parts. Been there in the past and VW stuff is just better in the long run mate :happy2:
Yeah they're apparently a bit stiffer, and I've read a few times they're cheaper than GTI ones, for whatever reason. So win win really, although I doubt there's really much in it in terms of longevity or performance. It's probably one of those things that's theoretically 'better', but in the real world isn't worth obsessing over!
Just waiting for a PM back from @Paradox1 as he's got a pair of OEM. Whether they're Audi or VW doesn't really matter to me, just saves a trip to the dealers
Post by: fish on May 31, 2017, 12:35:03 pm
I put new mounts and bearings (tps) on my GTI only 20k ago due to knocking over minor bumps at low speed and the knocking is back! I have been running VWR springs with B4's since fitting them so maybe the stiffer (slightly) springs have killed them? Slightly disappointed have to say
Post by: pudding on May 31, 2017, 01:45:21 pm
Post by: fish on May 31, 2017, 02:17:13 pm
Thanks for your reply, I will investigate. It only started a few days ago but I cannot deal with my car not being tip top!
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: pudding on May 31, 2017, 04:01:54 pm
Did you torque the 21mm top nut down, or just air gun it? There is a risk of over tightening that nut, which can prematurely wear out the ball bearings. If the wheel has no vertical play in it, it's not the bearings.
Another source of knock can be the steering rack. The actual mechanical rack/pinion part, not the electric motor side of it. How many miles on the car? Mine's on 110K and making all manner of clonks, clunks, clicks, clacks, crunches, knocks, bangs and thumps! I did the top mounts/springs/dampers last month, so I know it's not them!
Post by: fish on May 31, 2017, 04:23:58 pm
Car has done 85k (had it for 6yrs 45k, Reg Dec 07)) that's just it, for the last couple of years it has been silent suspension wise, no clonks, knocks, squeaks, nothing, tight as a drum. Car has had such an easy life with me too, hardly gets a thrashing and only recently been driven a bit harder since having bcs tbe and stage 2 Revo. Also had fitted a few months back S3 wishbones and bushes, bot ball joints and track ends. Mmm wonder if that's related??
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: pudding on May 31, 2017, 04:46:47 pm
First things first is to jack up the front and check for play in those the mounts. If it's not them, prepare for a long drawn out process of elimination. Things that clonk on the road don't always reveal any play on the ramp!
Post by: fish on May 31, 2017, 05:01:02 pm
Think I will jack up tonight to see if there's anything obvious awry.
Thanks.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: pudding on June 01, 2017, 10:02:55 am
Ditto, I also had to replace racks in MK2s and Corrados. Good to see the newer VWs still have the same issue :grin: I remember replacing the rack, column UJ and tie rods on the VR6 and it felt like a brand new car after that. No perceptible play at all in any of the parts when bench tested. Weird.
Post by: fish on June 05, 2017, 10:38:31 am
Getting my car looked at on Thursday re knocking noise. Pudding, you have the VWR shocks as well as the VWR springs? How do you find it at M/way speeds? Could you honestly say it is comfortable enough to do a long journey in? I find that mine with the b4's never really settles at speed, am wondering it its a control symptom of the shocks with the stiffer springs.
Thinking of maybe getting the shocks when/if I get the top mounts done.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: pudding on June 05, 2017, 12:01:38 pm
Yeah I would say it's comfortable for long journeys, definitely. I had standard suspension on previously and that was fine on long journeys, but the VWR is even better! The issues I've had with it are ride height related. Arch rubbing and hitting the bump stops. I'm on standard wheels with no spacers, so the rubbing was a bit of a surprise, with just one passenger.
It's a great kit though. Ride quality and cornering both improve.
Post by: MIJ_JAGGER on June 05, 2017, 12:20:35 pm
I know the feeling! It bugs me when the whole car is not 100%, but that just isn't possible on a 10 year old car without rolling your sleeves up and opening the wallet!I was in a similar position Pudding. Chasing a knocking and clunking over bumpy roads, changed top mounts, bushings, droplinks and its only now that my power steering died and got the rack changed, the clunking and knocking has gone! So maybe....
Did you torque the 21mm top nut down, or just air gun it? There is a risk of over tightening that nut, which can prematurely wear out the ball bearings. If the wheel has no vertical play in it, it's not the bearings.
Another source of knock can be the steering rack. The actual mechanical rack/pinion part, not the electric motor side of it. How many miles on the car? Mine's on 110K and making all manner of clonks, clunks, clicks, clacks, crunches, knocks, bangs and thumps! I did the top mounts/springs/dampers last month, so I know it's not them!
Post by: fish on June 05, 2017, 01:06:38 pm
One issue I had when fitting the VWR springs to standard shocks (b4) was that the rear was just sitting on the bumpstops making the ride unbearable. The only option was to chop the bumpstops by the same amount of lowering to regain any sort of suspension travel.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: pudding on June 05, 2017, 03:36:04 pm
I know the feeling! It bugs me when the whole car is not 100%, but that just isn't possible on a 10 year old car without rolling your sleeves up and opening the wallet!I was in a similar position Pudding. Chasing a knocking and clunking over bumpy roads, changed top mounts, bushings, droplinks and its only now that my power steering died and got the rack changed, the clunking and knocking has gone! So maybe....
Did you torque the 21mm top nut down, or just air gun it? There is a risk of over tightening that nut, which can prematurely wear out the ball bearings. If the wheel has no vertical play in it, it's not the bearings.
Another source of knock can be the steering rack. The actual mechanical rack/pinion part, not the electric motor side of it. How many miles on the car? Mine's on 110K and making all manner of clonks, clunks, clicks, clacks, crunches, knocks, bangs and thumps! I did the top mounts/springs/dampers last month, so I know it's not them!
Thanks mate, that's certainly encouraging. I don't mind replacing the rack if it will sort the problem. I just don't like throwing parts at it and the problem remains! It's at AKS next month for walnut blasting, so I'll get them to check the rack whilst it's in. I'm pretty sure it's 100% shot though, due to the way the car wanders around so much on uneven surfaces.
Post by: pudding on June 05, 2017, 03:44:22 pm
Thanks for the replies. Is the rubbing front or back? Also I assume the VWR shocks are shortened so to allow effective suspension travel with a reduced ride height?
One issue I had when fitting the VWR springs to standard shocks (b4) was that the rear was just sitting on the bumpstops making the ride unbearable. The only option was to chop the bumpstops by the same amount of lowering to regain any sort of suspension travel.
I've only noticed it at the front so far, and only once. I kind of flung it hard into a sharp bend the other night (much to the missus's disgust lol) and I heard some rubbing from the front offside arch. I checked it when I got home and couldn't see any scuff marks on the liner, liner screw or the arch lip, so it must have been a very slight kiss.
I haven't noticed any harshness from the back yet. That's a good point about chopping the Bumpstops. I didn't think I'd need to do that as everyone said the VWRs only lower about 15-20mm, but the drop seems way more than that to me. Quite tempted to try OEM springs on the VWR dampers, but I prefer how the VWR springs feel round corners as they're progressive. I didn't compare the damper lengths to the OEM ones when I had it in bits, but VWR say their dampers can be used with OEM springs.
I might contact VWR and see if they do any longer springs!
Post by: fish on June 09, 2017, 09:13:33 am
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: pudding on June 09, 2017, 10:52:29 am
It's an age old conundrum.... 1) do you get rid of the car, knowing it has faults that will devalue it, and move onto something else and potentially start over with sorting issues......or 2) throw the towel in and lease a Golf R, but with the unsatisfying feeling it's not yours, you can't mod it and you only get a 5 door one.....or 3) just keep investing in the current steed and get it up to scratch?
All of the options involve opening the wallet unfortunately. I'm definitely of the option 3) mind set.
Anyway, yes the rack will clunk if there's wear in it, and it does seem like you and I both have a chunky bill looming. But it will feel epic with a new rack though :happy2:
Post by: fish on June 13, 2017, 04:58:44 pm
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: pudding on June 29, 2017, 09:21:41 am