MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: slix on April 10, 2017, 10:35:07 am
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Was having a browse on ye old vcds and stumbled across this in the steering assist menu. Think it was meant for the fwd vr6 passat in the states but has anyone tried it?
It's meant to reduce torque steer and in a k04 equipped car it will be putting down more power than the vr6 passat anyway.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-116KbqSNxpE/T4-Jj5hCYHI/AAAAAAAAApg/263CQLTIRQU/s1024/TorqueSteer.jpg)
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Interesting. I might try to see if the coding is accepted and if anything different is noticeable. :smiley:
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Interesting. I might try to see if the coding is accepted and if anything different is noticeable. :smiley:
Interested here too!
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Quite a big thread about it on the MK6 forum - http://www.golfmk6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36475
Apparently it does also work on the MK5.
Torque Steer is pretty much non existent on a standard height car though :smiley:
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It wasn't accepted on my Mk5 GTI.
Never found torque steer to be an issue.
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Anyone else tried it?
Not had a chance to stick the cable in yet :signLOL:
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I'll try it after work tonight during removal of the instrument cluster to see what the feck is rattling like fook behind there.
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I'll try it after work tonight during removal of the instrument cluster to see what the feck is rattling like fook behind there.
Let me know what you find as I have an evil rattle deep in there too!
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Mine doesn't torque steer. By those videos it looks like it is reducing the torque of the engine
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Yes, mine doesn't torque steer either. I was confusing with torque understeer... :ashamed: :signLOL:
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Doesn't work on my 07 Edition 30. Just says "Channel not found".
I'll try it after work tonight during removal of the instrument cluster to see what the feck is rattling like fook behind there.
Let me know what you find as I have an evil rattle deep in there too!
I discovered a couple of missing screws from assorted trim panels, and the lower panel that holds the OBD2 socket and footwell light was clanging around like a good un (again, due previous owners). Tightened up every bolt and nut I could see, took the clocks out, had a good grope around but nothing! Still rattling like buggery. It's more a vibration induced rattle than bumps in the road. Certain dual carriageway surfaces really aggravate it.
I think the next step is to remove everything except the dash carcass and clocks and just poke and prod things whilst on the road until I find it. It could actually be something under the scuttle cover in the wiper motor area rattling about, or something inside the alloy dash skeleton / crash structure that's loose..... but I'll check the obvious interior bits first.
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Can't say I've suffered any torque steer but may as well have a look..... Be rude not to!
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Might be worth trying it with traction control off too and see if any wheelspin feels any less crazy through the steering wheel.
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I can't say why (although at 330bhp and as much if not more lb/ft torque it could be expected) but mine torque steered fairly profoundly at stage 2 right up until I had a Wavetrac LSD fitted then it went away.
It's a DSG although I can't see why that would make any difference...
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If the car is lowered it's probably bump steer. Standard suspension, stage 1 eddy, hands off the wheel, nail it on a flat piece of road......zero torque steer. I do get some tugging on the steering wheel under power on bumpy B roads, but that's bump steer induced.
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If the car is lowered it's probably bump steer. Standard suspension, stage 1 eddy, hands off the wheel, nail it on a flat piece of road......zero torque steer. I do get some tugging on the steering wheel under power on bumpy B roads, but that's bump steer induced.
Could have been, but I might have expected it not to be affected by the addition of an LSD. Otherwise, suspension is Bilstein B12 Pro Kit, WALK, at the time S3 arms and Eibach ARB's with stock geometry. On a flat motorway slip road it could be routinely demonstrated.
What seems to be clear is that there can be conditions present that can mean it affects some cars more than others. I deliberated for ages over buying these parts as I wanted to make the car track day capable and didn't mind the compromises in biasing the car in this way. I do agree with a point you made somewhere else in that manufacturers get stock cars set up pretty well but they are often focused neither one way or the other and please most people most of the time.
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If the car is lowered it's probably bump steer. Standard suspension, stage 1 eddy, hands off the wheel, nail it on a flat piece of road......zero torque steer. I do get some tugging on the steering wheel under power on bumpy B roads, but that's bump steer induced.
Could have been, but I might have expected it not to be affected by the addition of an LSD. Otherwise, suspension is Bilstein B12 Pro Kit, WALK, at the time S3 arms and Eibach ARB's with stock geometry. On a flat motorway slip road it could be routinely demonstrated.
What seems to be clear is that there can be conditions present that can mean it affects some cars more than others. I deliberated for ages over buying these parts as I wanted to make the car track day capable and didn't mind the compromises in biasing the car in this way. I do agree with a point you made somewhere else in that manufacturers get stock cars set up pretty well but they are often focused neither one way or the other and please most people most of the time.
It's weird isn't it. Not sure how or why an LSD would have any influence on torque steer. ATB type differentials usually make it worse! Case in point: MK1 Focus RS! What else did you fit at the same time?
I was reading in that MK6 thread about some OEM parts to make the wishbones equal length, which will kill TS mechanically, once and for all!
I've driven a lot of hot hatches and the MK5 and MK7 are setup 85-90% capabale from the factory imo. The remaining 15% is people tuning the feel for track work and lowering etc. A standard MK5/7 can be thrown around at mega license losing speeds on any road and I often wonder what kind of ludicrous speeds people drive at on public roads to need coilovers and massive brakes, to top an already massively talented chassis!
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If the car is lowered it's probably bump steer. Standard suspension, stage 1 eddy, hands off the wheel, nail it on a flat piece of road......zero torque steer. I do get some tugging on the steering wheel under power on bumpy B roads, but that's bump steer induced.
Could have been, but I might have expected it not to be affected by the addition of an LSD. Otherwise, suspension is Bilstein B12 Pro Kit, WALK, at the time S3 arms and Eibach ARB's with stock geometry. On a flat motorway slip road it could be routinely demonstrated.
What seems to be clear is that there can be conditions present that can mean it affects some cars more than others. I deliberated for ages over buying these parts as I wanted to make the car track day capable and didn't mind the compromises in biasing the car in this way. I do agree with a point you made somewhere else in that manufacturers get stock cars set up pretty well but they are often focused neither one way or the other and please most people most of the time.
It's weird isn't it. Not sure how or why an LSD would have any influence on torque steer. ATB type differentials usually make it worse! Case in point: MK1 Focus RS! What else did you fit at the same time?
I was reading in that MK6 thread about some OEM parts to make the wishbones equal length, which will kill TS mechanically, once and for all!
I've driven a lot of hot hatches and the MK5 and MK7 are setup 85-90% capabale from the factory imo. The remaining 15% is people tuning the feel for track work and lowering etc. A standard MK5/7 can be thrown around at mega license losing speeds on any road and I often wonder what kind of ludicrous speeds people drive at on public roads to need coilovers and massive brakes, to top an already massively talented chassis!
I've heard of equal length drive shafts having an effect on TS but not wishbones, but I know very little about chassis dynamics etc so am in no way an expert. I simply took JKM's advice on setting up and bought as per their recommendation which has been successful. As I grew more proficient on track I outgrew the S3 front brakes and changed to the AP kit I have now. I'll be the first to admit that they are bigger than I need without a doubt and BG Developments did say as much. A neat little 4 piston kit would have done fine. I went for the 6 piston kit for economic reasons as it was barely more expensive and I thought it would appeal to wider audience when sold if removed for sale. What I have also found is that the pad area is so big I don't need exotic compounds to stop the car as I like and I also wanted floating rotors. But yes, I agree, not really required to get the job done, especially for road use. For road use only the S3 parts were fine, they had the required bite from cold and could take a few hard laps at Goodwood but would eventually give out and default to the ABS zone with no progression or feel. If you got into that situation on the road I'd say you were driving like a tit.
There's only one coilover I'd want and it's Ohlins Road and Track and at £2k thereabouts it isn't going to happen. Its dual valve feature is a great feature for a car used on the road. I had something similar in Koni FSD's on a 2008 Leon FR which had truly awful damping in stock form. Otherwise CO's are too harsh, for me at least.
Good quality dampers and springs which are properly matched and fitted with complimentary ARB's is still better than I am on track. The limits are far far beyond anything I have ever experienced on the road. So I agree completely with you on that point. Good geometry with -2 degrees if you can get it set and a WALK kit to deal with toe angle changes would probably do.
Tyres are one of the best mods for a car going on track, they'll give you measurable benefits but you need a well sized gentlemens' area to see the benefit and some ability :rolleye: :grin:.
The Wavetrac diff is supposed to be different to conventional torque biasing diffs, I couldn't explain the differences but see if this makes sense to you http://www.wavetrac.net/technical.htm (http://www.wavetrac.net/technical.htm)
A friend at work has a Mk1 Focus RS and he says it's a pig for it :fighting:
It's very easy to ruin a car with the best of intentions.
On the Mk7, I have a standard GTI in manual form and it's wonderfully capable. Truly brilliant. It may 'only' have 210 bhp but you can access a lot of that without any bother, and you are really moving when you do :driver: :party:.
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It's probably soggy OEM console bushes causing the Wishbone to move under power affecting the toe I reckon? ALKs get rid of that problem, as do S3 console bushes.
Always been a fan of your car as it's got all the ingredients I would fit myself, and you went for the less showy black AP calipers :happy2: I had the 4 pot version of yours a long time ago, along with AP discs and Pagid RS15 pads. Really good brakes. BG Developments helped me out with some custom bells back in the day, and they were good to deal with.
Agreed on the coilovers. Only Ohlins for me also. Fox Racing (of mountain / motor bike fame) have recently branched out into the car market, so hopefully they might offer us MK5 owners something soon. I use their dampers on my mountain bikes and they're great! Damper performance and quality is what it all boils down to really. Springs are springs!
Mine is never going on a track as it's a daily. If I were track it, I'd fit the APs and Ohlins for sure.....Tyrol sport rear brace, Ground control top mounts, Wavetrac all of it!!
The wavetrac is the same basic construction as the Quaife / Peloquins but it also has locking on zero load conditions, which the other 2 don't have. It's definitely the LSD to have :happy2: When my box comes apart for a rebuild, I think I'll drop one in.
You have a MK7 as well?! Lucky man :smiley:
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It's probably soggy OEM console bushes causing the Wishbone to move under power affecting the toe I reckon? ALKs get rid of that problem, as do S3 console bushes.
Always been a fan of your car as it's got all the ingredients I would fit myself, and you went for the less showy black AP calipers :happy2: I had the 4 pot version of yours a long time ago, along with AP discs and Pagid RS15 pads. Really good brakes. BG Developments helped me out with some custom bells back in the day, and they were good to deal with.
Agreed on the coilovers. Only Ohlins for me also. Fox Racing (of mountain / motor bike fame) have recently branched out into the car market, so hopefully they might offer us MK5 owners something soon. I use their dampers on my mountain bikes and they're great! Damper performance and quality is what it all boils down to really. Springs are springs!
Mine is never going on a track as it's a daily. If I were track it, I'd fit the APs and Ohlins for sure.....Tyrol sport rear brace, Ground control top mounts, Wavetrac all of it!!
The wavetrac is the same basic construction as the Quaife / Peloquins but it also has locking on zero load conditions, which the other 2 don't have. It's definitely the LSD to have :happy2: When my box comes apart for a rebuild, I think I'll drop one in.
You have a MK7 as well?! Lucky man :smiley:
I really hope that when/if it's sold the new owner wants to keep it the way it is. I have the standard intake, engine mounts and refurbished Pirelli wheels for it although I can't imagine when I'll sell though, I've had it for 5 years now which is my longest ever ownership. I've been given a phone number to call should I sell, a chap from the business next door saw it in the car park at work, he may have a long wait! At 54,000 miles on an 09 plate I'm hoping for a few more years yet.
Thanks for your compliment on it :happy2:
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I'll try it after work tonight during removal of the instrument cluster to see what the feck is rattling like fook behind there.
Let me know what you find as I have an evil rattle deep in there too!
@OEM+ DUB (http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=776) I found the two main rattle sources:
1) A 'self expanding' nut for attaching the offside front lower arch liner to the bodywork pulled out and was tapping on the chassis rail. VW have redesigned these and everything is tight and secure now, rattle #1 gone for good.
2) Something behind the steering column plastic shells is loose as hell, but I haven't got around to stripping it down for investigation yet, so rattle #2 persists for now, but at least I now know where it's coming from!