Post by: DMackie on July 18, 2017, 12:22:34 pm
I recently got an error code and the EML appearing on the dash. First thoughts from browsing the forum was that its a MAF issue. I was going to TPS anyway and picked one up. It seemed to help and the next day the EML was off my dash however it came back today on the way to work.
Can anyone help with these 3 codes. Info on the car is that it has a Milltek TBE with 200 CEL sports cat.
3 Faults Found:
005634 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 002 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: -40.0°C
Temperature: -40.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
Voltage: 0.000 V
008583 - Bank 1; System too Lean at Idle
P2187 - 004 - - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 4
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 200955 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 18:03:34
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 950 /min
Load: 16.1 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 63.0°C
Temperature: 16.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.605 V
000256 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0100 - 004 - Supply Voltage - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100100
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 4
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 200955 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 18:03:34
Post by: pudding on July 18, 2017, 01:13:01 pm
The other 2 could be air leak related. Disturbed anything in the area recently, other than the MAF?
Is the car remapped?
Post by: DMackie on July 18, 2017, 01:42:28 pm
I did have a charcoal canister error which was fixed with a new unit. My only thoughts were N80 valve possibly failed. I had the PCV and gasket changed when i newly bought it.
Just a bit stuck. Car doesn't feel down on power and its not been mapped.
Post by: DMackie on July 19, 2017, 11:19:53 am
Post by: Trow81 on July 19, 2017, 06:57:40 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/53c6928556edba139d202f214cd2db0b.png)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170719/15478437b10f9ac09c992ee1f24b3cff.png)
Hope that helps
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: DMackie on July 19, 2017, 07:03:20 pm
Thanks anyway.
Post by: Scottymon on July 19, 2017, 07:14:35 pm
Post by: DMackie on July 28, 2017, 11:42:21 am
However the rattling noise had been annoying me for a while so went in past North East Motors in Newmacher for a chat with them and went through everything i have had done and that i felt it may have been the cam chain. Went ahead and got the work carried out today and what a difference. The car is silent on idle. It cost a bit of money to do but its done now and i can get on with modding the car to stage 2.
Post by: pudding on July 28, 2017, 12:15:20 pm
Post by: DMackie on July 28, 2017, 02:25:04 pm
Post by: pudding on July 28, 2017, 02:40:26 pm
I was at AKS last week and they recommend the Wagner or Peron intercoolers. The latter is currently being revised and due out soon.
S3 is OK, but the Wagner especially is hugely better.
Post by: AJP on July 28, 2017, 08:14:58 pm
Nice. I'd get a pump and go straight to stage 2+ personally, because you'll end up there anyway...... may as well skip out the middle man :smiley:Wagner ICs are right up there. Really highly regarded in the BMW scene. A little bit on the pricey side, but if it was a money no object situation they'd be near the top of my list. APR, too.
I was at AKS last week and they recommend the Wagner or Peron intercoolers. The latter is currently being revised and due out soon.
S3 is OK, but the Wagner especially is hugely better.
I thought the Peron had already been revised and has been available for a while, but I could be wrong. Or it could be a second revision? I heard about pressure drop issues from my local TFSI guru... around the time the revised model was becoming a thing. That was a good few months ago.
100% agree on the pump. It's such a weak link past Stage 1 on either k03 or k04!
Post by: DMackie on July 29, 2017, 06:30:16 pm
I was thinking of getting the uprated darkside s3 intercooler which is slighter larger than the stock s3 one. Thoughts on this too please.
Down the line i may even go hydrid, bbt or tte. But at the moment i want to get handling and power mods done before getting the map done. Would stage 2+ mean getting a uprated clutch too? Im on stock clutch at 125k miles.
Cheers
Post by: AJP on July 29, 2017, 07:06:25 pm
I thought that the Peron would be too big for stage 2+ and would be best suited for the k04 turbos. I have been looking at the vis fuel pump internals as i heard they are kinder on the cam follower than the autotech internals but some advice would be greatly appreciated.Loba and APR are your 'ideal' fuel pump upgrades. They're costly new, but they do come up second hand now and then. Internal upgrades like VIS and Autotech... well the jury is still out. They might be fine, if installed into the existing Hitachi pump body properly. That's the key - clean and accurate installation.
I was thinking of getting the uprated darkside s3 intercooler which is slighter larger than the stock s3 one. Thoughts on this too please.
Down the line i may even go hydrid, bbt or tte. But at the moment i want to get handling and power mods done before getting the map done. Would stage 2+ mean getting a uprated clutch too? Im on stock clutch at 125k miles.
Cheers
If you're k03 and likely to stay k03, go for an OEM alloy-ended Audi 8P S3 intercooler.
If there's a good chance you'll go for a k04 or k03 hybrid in the future, then a Peron, Wagner, whatever good intercooler might be wise. I personally think the S3 part would be good for a k04 car, as long as the map doesn't push inlet temps too much.
Really, it boils down to the power/performance you want to achieve, and how much headroom above you're willing to pay for. Run a k04 at 20psi and you should have no problems with heat. Run a k04 at 26psi and you'll need to get things right. Translated: Map is very important.
The Darkside cooler you talk about is IIRC a Chinese THS copy, and there are quite a few like it, under different brands.
In summary - if this helps - if and when I go over 300bhp the spec will be as follows:
Loba pump
RS4 return valve
BCS full exhaust (sport cat)
S3 cooler
K04 injectors
K04 (obvs..)
Stay with Ramair intake or go back to OEM airbox
Etuners map at low 20s psi
Post by: DMackie on July 29, 2017, 07:09:20 pm
Post by: AJP on July 29, 2017, 07:31:22 pm
Cheers for the info man. Will work away on modding it as and when the money allows.No worries. Forgot to mention the clutch... yeah you'll probably knacker a standard one in no time at even Stage 2. Helix Organic is the way to go. Works with an OEM DMF, has a nice feel, will take 350-400lb/ft. Only tangible difference is a heavier pedal.
Post by: DMackie on July 29, 2017, 08:38:57 pm
The clutch is pretty soft standard on the gti. My mk1 leon cupra and mk3 golf gti had heavier clutches so im not too fussed about it being heavier.
Post by: AJP on July 30, 2017, 11:32:00 am
I would normally change the DMF at the same time. That still the thing to do?Yes, fit a new flywheel with the clutch. LUK is the OEM brand to get.
The clutch is pretty soft standard on the gti. My mk1 leon cupra and mk3 golf gti had heavier clutches so im not too fussed about it being heavier.