Post by: MIJ_JAGGER on October 06, 2017, 02:55:20 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171006/91927bd26db0d24a1ac4170a85198e12.png)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171006/edcbe9d0dcfef2bde410c9d13a4fd406.png)
Post by: pudding on October 06, 2017, 03:30:25 pm
If I didn't already have the Vibrators, I'd be trying those for sure!
Post by: MIJ_JAGGER on October 06, 2017, 05:12:36 pm
I can't find anyone that's fitted these, I might have to be the guinea pig
Post by: pudding on October 06, 2017, 05:59:55 pm
Post by: Stig_gti on October 06, 2017, 07:48:15 pm
Post by: Dan_FR on October 06, 2017, 09:40:06 pm
Post by: MIJ_JAGGER on October 07, 2017, 06:01:16 pm
Fitting mine tomorrow hopefully, had them sat here all week waiting for 5 minutes to myselfLet us know
Post by: Dan_FR on October 07, 2017, 10:12:18 pm
First thing to note is that there are different upper engine mount void designs, much like the differences with the rear dog bone... and typically I have the wrong type of engine mount..... However I managed to modify it to make it fit and work sufficiently....
They do everything I had hoped for without the drawbacks you constantly hear with uprated mounts.
Revving the engine at idle = no movement at all. Previously there was a lot with my standard mounts, even with the dogbone mount insert I have fitted.
Driving= can feel straight away when pulling off. Solid but without horrific vibrations. The only vibrations I noticed were when pulling off without enough throttle - rattled the contents of my door pocket.
Absolutely no vibration or rattles at idle, feels as smooth as it ever did once I fixed the fuel line rattle.... I'd disturbed it as I did the cambelt and pump at the same time as fitting these inserts.
The wheel hop I've suffered with for 4 years is finally gone too. The engine is solidly mounted yet perfectly civil for a daily drive.
Not been out for spirited drive with some twisties yet but I've no doubt it'll feel much better, especially when coming on/off the throttle.
All in all, aside from the upper engine mount difference (metal centre piece is a much wider oval profile compared with the rounded smaller one shown in the kit)......once you get past that, either with the correct mount or some creative trimming, I would whole heartedly recommend these along with the rear mount insert (I already fitted)
Post by: MIJ_JAGGER on October 08, 2017, 12:25:29 am
Next on my list then
Thanks for the feedback mate
Post by: rich83 on October 08, 2017, 12:27:40 am
Post by: mk1mad on October 08, 2017, 09:31:11 am
Post by: AJP on October 08, 2017, 10:13:59 am
Post by: Andy on October 08, 2017, 10:16:28 am
Post by: MIJ_JAGGER on October 08, 2017, 02:49:37 pm
Lifted most of this from my Facebook post...Dan did you go for the black series?
First thing to note is that there are different upper engine mount void designs, much like the differences with the rear dog bone... and typically I have the wrong type of engine mount..... However I managed to modify it to make it fit and work sufficiently....
They do everything I had hoped for without the drawbacks you constantly hear with uprated mounts.
Revving the engine at idle = no movement at all. Previously there was a lot with my standard mounts, even with the dogbone mount insert I have fitted.
Driving= can feel straight away when pulling off. Solid but without horrific vibrations. The only vibrations I noticed were when pulling off without enough throttle - rattled the contents of my door pocket.
Absolutely no vibration or rattles at idle, feels as smooth as it ever did once I fixed the fuel line rattle.... I'd disturbed it as I did the cambelt and pump at the same time as fitting these inserts.
The wheel hop I've suffered with for 4 years is finally gone too. The engine is solidly mounted yet perfectly civil for a daily drive.
Not been out for spirited drive with some twisties yet but I've no doubt it'll feel much better, especially when coming on/off the throttle.
All in all, aside from the upper engine mount difference (metal centre piece is a much wider oval profile compared with the rounded smaller one shown in the kit)......nonce you get past that, either with the correct mount or some creative trimming, I would whole heartedly recommend these along with the rear mount insert (I already fitted)
Post by: Dan_FR on October 08, 2017, 04:39:49 pm
And these are the standard density purple/yellow inserts... I do have a black edition insert for the dogbone though and would highly recommend this combination, even in older mounts, mine have done near enough 75k
I have noticed some slight vibration through the steering wheel on a cold start, until the revs settle after 30 seconds or so, and there is a slight split second of vibration when you blip the throttle from idle, at literally just above idle speeds -800 to 900 rpm ish but it is slight. If you didn't know any better I doubt you would notice it, but after 4 years with the car I notice everything.
I would recommend confirming the engine mount design you have and even finding one of the correct design though for convenience of a proper fit. Very easy to do though and still thoroughly recommended
Post by: MIJ_JAGGER on October 08, 2017, 04:42:51 pm
Post by: Paradox1 on October 09, 2017, 10:31:47 am
I had almost convinced myself that no more mods would be purchased for my ed30..... :thinking:
hahahahaha Same as everyone on this forum
Post by: pudding on October 09, 2017, 11:06:26 am
If my VTs ever collapse into a pile of rubber dust, I'll give these inserts a look.
Post by: Dan_FR on October 09, 2017, 11:37:03 am
Noticed the insert has moved and is slipping out of the mount a little. Likely because it is not the correct mount and the design/void is slightly different. Can't feel it in the car yet, the insert is still doing its job but I'm not happy with it. Currently on the lookout for a cheap engine mount of the correct type/design to fit the kit to.
Check those engine mounts first folks, post up a picture if unsure :happy2:
Post by: MIJ_JAGGER on October 09, 2017, 11:43:40 am
I'm guessing the trans mount would be...
Post by: Shoduchi on October 09, 2017, 12:08:51 pm
Post by: Paradox1 on October 09, 2017, 12:52:01 pm
Powerflex directly?
Post by: Dan_FR on October 09, 2017, 01:36:28 pm
Think my issue is more of a 'Leon' thing so you guys might be ok since this is a Golf page and all.....
Post by: Molesy on October 09, 2017, 02:09:15 pm
https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/powerflex/powerflex-upper-engine-mount-insert-kit-pff85-531/ (https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/powerflex/powerflex-upper-engine-mount-insert-kit-pff85-531/)
https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/powerflex/powerflex-transmission-mount-insert-kit-pff85-530/ (https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/powerflex/powerflex-transmission-mount-insert-kit-pff85-530/)
Post by: MIJ_JAGGER on October 09, 2017, 02:23:56 pm
Trans mount:
Suitable for the original OEM Part Numbers:
- 1K0199555Q
- 1K0199555R
- 1K0199555L
- 1K0199555M
- 1K0199555N
- 1K0199555AB
- 1K0199555BE
Engine mount:
Suitable for the original OEM Part Numbers:
- 1K0199262AM
- 1K0199262AR
- 8J0199262
Post by: Dan_FR on October 09, 2017, 02:51:25 pm
I foolishly didn't check the engine side. Going to look for the right type I think
Post by: MIJ_JAGGER on October 09, 2017, 03:10:05 pm
But like you say, mission to know for sure
Post by: Dan_FR on October 16, 2017, 11:51:48 am
Anyone finding they have the other/wrong engine mount as I did - some advice:- Get the correct type mount and don't modify it to fit. Lesson learned and how 100% happy with the kit
Post by: MIJ_JAGGER on October 16, 2017, 12:23:48 pm
Quick update: The drivers side engine mount has to be replaced as the insert was sliding out of position. Went with the AM part number listed as being compatible, and all is well with the world.What was the part number for the mount you had on there originally?
Anyone finding they have the other/wrong engine mount as I did - some advice:- Get the correct type mount and don't modify it to fit. Lesson learned and how 100% happy with the kit
Post by: Dan_FR on October 16, 2017, 12:34:38 pm
Post by: Shoduchi on October 16, 2017, 02:20:25 pm
Post by: f00glee on November 29, 2017, 12:44:38 pm
Post by: colesey on November 29, 2017, 02:05:22 pm
https://www.facebook.com/groups/529405700525327/?fref=nf
Post by: Dan_FR on November 29, 2017, 03:06:55 pm
Labour at a garage or DIY? Both sides are an hour maximum in a garage.. I did both of mine in about 15-20 minutes in all honesty - block of wood across the sump using a low profile alu jack to support the engine (didnt even need to remove my under tray or jack the car up) - Drivers side is easily accessible and a 5 minute job with a windy/battery gun. Gearbox side is a little longer as you have to remove the battery, battery tray, aftermarket intake etc. but still a 10 minute job with a battery/windy gun
Post by: f00glee on November 29, 2017, 04:08:48 pm
That means the saving from not paying garage charges covers the cost of the inserts themselves. (man-math at its finest there :signLOL:)
Thanks all.
Post by: Bodyboarder81 on November 29, 2017, 04:19:17 pm
Post by: colesey on May 30, 2018, 07:49:36 am
Post by: Shoduchi on May 30, 2018, 11:57:05 am
Post by: colesey on May 30, 2018, 12:07:40 pm
Post by: pudding on December 13, 2019, 05:51:26 pm
The positives:
Engine rock is greatly reduced and the (manual) gearshift is also improved. Cheap and easy to fit.
NVH:
Nothing added at idle and part throttle cruising, if anything it idles a fair bit smoother. I do get a bit of noise/coarseness when accelerating from 2000rpm upwards but it smoothes out as the engine temperature rises. Overall NVH is a lot better than full aftermarket mounts but there's definitely an increase in NVH. A lot more than I was expecting given the feedback in this thread. Maybe some cars experience less, but in my manual ED30 it's very noticeable!
The negatives:
Whilst the concept is a good idea and very cost effective, it is ultimately flawed in practice. Why? Because you have two different density materials occupying the same space which aren't bonded to each other or securely fixed in place. I did already consider this before I bought them, but thought f'ck it, try them anyway.
If you consider the physics.....the gearbox side with the shortest and more rigid driveshaft, and less weight, it tries to pivot the whole drivetrain to the right when you floor it.
This theory was apparently true on the road after a bit of midrange acceleration. The car abruptly kicked to the right. I got back home and found this:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49214291112_e3bd52fea6_b.jpg)
As I suspected, the opposing force of the transmission side forced the engine mount insert out.
So to solve this problem, I did this:
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49213526073_c31b169ca3_b.jpg)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49213526118_243b5c3a49_b.jpg)
I also had to shorten the main insert legs as they pressed hard against the engine side bracket, preventing them from going fully in. The securing tangs therefore had to be cut off, but the 2 x M6 bolts keep the upper insert in place, so it's not a problem.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49213526048_9f58be31bd_b.jpg)
This remedial action shouldn't be necessary, but hey, it's only a 30 quid mod and the reinforcements do the trick :happy2:
I haven't checked the gearbox side yet as it's under the battery, so not easy to see without a wifi borescope camera thing but I suspect it will be fine due to the reasons above. If the inserts have walked out, I will apply the same measures.
You can clearly see in this pic how far off the bolt holes are when the mount is restored back to it's correct position with the inserts! The gearbox mount is the worst one for wear and NVH.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49214058651_b30f893a10_b.jpg)
So in summary, not that great in my opinion, but the low cost of them makes them worth a shot and the NVH is minimal at best, to acceptable at worst. Just be prepared to modify them if you want them as a long term solution.
Post by: pudding on December 13, 2019, 06:03:24 pm
Tomorrow I'll be helicoiling the threads, hopefully without having to remove the bracket from the engine as drill space is tight.
Moral of the story - don't f'ck with your daily a day or two before it's needed for work :grin:
Post by: Cosmos on December 14, 2019, 01:30:13 am
(https://i.postimg.cc/7ZH45XjF/0-A075-E3-C-B727-4038-B0-D3-D88-DB3-CBAE86.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gnTQ5yzs)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mrqW64h4/CD4-C6271-0-A75-4695-8613-7-C2-D1017-C9-C5.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/SXWPJwW1)
They were fitted over a year ago and noticed it early in the summer so i removed the inserts, refitted them and pumped in a bit of clear silicone in places to hold them in place and have been keeping an eye on it and so far so good.
(https://i.postimg.cc/C528Rzxt/76-C791-FA-67-F3-42-F0-87-EC-0-F5892-B79336.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JHb0g7Jc)
(https://i.postimg.cc/MZgNktW7/3174-BC5-C-0206-42-BB-B18-A-0-BA2-C7-D41652.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/dDm4r2Z3)
(https://i.postimg.cc/htTmG4Wy/6-F196-B34-1-A9-B-42-E6-8902-54-F83-FE14-A68.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NKGFJc0m)
Am going to check the gearbox insert when ive got time over the xmas holidays. Fingers crossed its not done a similar thing.
Post by: colesey on December 14, 2019, 02:01:02 pm
Post by: pudding on December 14, 2019, 04:15:35 pm
Managed to Helicoil the engine mount bracket today which was a relief as I need the car for work on Monday. Thank god for my local Machine Mart is all I can say!
The vibration has reduced considerably since putting the mount back on, which is weird, but I'm happy with it all now.
The engine bracket really does not like frequent removal/torquing up of the bolts. Still, the helicoils are a lot stronger than the original threads, so it was worth doing.
Post by: Cosmos on December 14, 2019, 07:00:02 pm
Looking at it now i was daft to think silicone would hold it in place lol
(https://i.postimg.cc/VLP4HmwM/83-CF462-E-95-B5-4-C06-BEE8-C5-B2-EC90256-D.png) (https://postimg.cc/nMTvX8Cc)
Post by: pudding on December 14, 2019, 08:20:52 pm
The upper insert started walking out on mine as well, hence tying that down with the bolts also. But not inserted too far otherwise the pendulum arm will contact the bolts when accelerating. I don't think any kind of glue or silicon will be man enough to keep them in place unfortunately.
Post by: Cosmos on December 14, 2019, 08:41:35 pm
I never noticed any difference with the mount squeezed out.The other side of the mount still looks all in place.
I have a wavetrac diff in mine and when it spins up which it still does very easy the car still keeps a fairly steady forward motion where before it pulled to one side.
Post by: pudding on December 14, 2019, 09:04:05 pm
Yeah I had a Quaife and still got lots of wheel spin. I think a combination of a diff and MK6 XDS ABS unit is the way forward. The MK5 traction control only works up to 40mph or something low like that.