MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: shail on May 23, 2018, 07:17:05 pm
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I'm planning on doing my rear pads and discs.
I've got all the bits, and a 14mm xzn socket for carrier bolt removal. I read that they are a pain to remove - anyone got any tips / ideas to get those bolts out?
I've done this job before on a MK3 and MK4 so I know what to do - I'm just worried about not being able to take the carrier off.
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Having done it twice now and despite having lubed the bolts etc, the best bit of advice I can give is to expect the two carrier bolts to be stuck- fast. You'll need a lot of clearance to get a big bar on there.
If they are stuck, you can get away with it by loosening the bearing and sliding that off the car. You can then angle the discs on and off. Not exactly a kosher method but it works if you're in a pickle.
Dan.
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Done mine a couple of times now and no issues with removing the M14 bolts.......just a little awkward for access and unplug the ABS sensor.
I was expecting the worst when I first did them, but must have got lucky as it was not as bad for me.
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Two very different replies!
Im guessing I'll just have to have a go.
One question - I may have access to a vehicle lift at work, but wont be able to do the whole job on the lift, as I'll only get about 5 mins on it. Is it possible to 'crack' the bolts and re-tighten them with the wheels on, and the car up in the air? This might make the job easier when I do it at home on the drive.
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Mine's had a slightly unloved past and is a 55 plate car, just for reference. I doubt anybody ever took penetrant near any part of the car before I got it. Although if you read anywhere the consensus is that the bolts are buggers, so it may be just luck of the draw if they aren't.
I guess you could crack them but two things come to mind.. you've got very limited clearance anyway so probably even less with the wheels on, plus you'd then be driving around with 2/4 carrier bolts loosened. Good idea/ bad idea?
Dan.
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Couldn't get the clearance safely with a big bar, so opted to take it to a garage rather than risk it crushing me when I have one leg up in the air trying to get the bolt off.
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When i did my rears before late years mot with a friend his impact helped us out with that god awful bolt took a good bit to get it out even with his air snapon impact.
At the end of the day give it a go if you cant get it off put it back together and take it to a garage.
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Guess I'll give it a go then. Knowing my luck 3 will come off ok, but one will be a nightmare.
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Fail!
Had a bash at this, and no combination of breaker bar or ratchet would work.
I've ordered some ratchet socket adapters which will allow me to put a 19mm spanner on the end of the socket - might give me the room I need, but probably not the leverage.
One more attempt then it's off to the garage :(
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Here's a semi-thorough DIY; https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Volkswagen_Golf_GTI_Mk_V/127-BRAKES-Rear_Brake_Pad_Replacement/127-BRAKES-Rear_Brake_Pad_Replacement.htm
Some parts stores/houses have free rental of caliper compression tools, only needed for the rear on our mk5's, and makes it a bit easier than trying to compress and turn; https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-disc-brake-caliper-tool
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hi Shail, i did this job on my mates GTI and have done it on other cars very similar... they are really tight and the space you got is tight too! as you now know. But with the GTI i remember using a long ratchet bar. as my breaker bar was causing me issues! make sure you jack the car up nice and high to give yourself plenty of room (you already know but use axle stands!!!) and find the perfect length extension bar.. good luck.
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I just used a 1/2” triple square socket in a regular breaker bar to crack them off, then a 3/8” socket set can take it from there. The more ratchet teeth your wrenches and torque wrench have, the better. The space available is only a click or two’s worth with Halfords wrenches. Need a lot more than that, but you can generally fudge your way through it.
Really sh*tty design by VW. Makes rear disc swaps 10x longer than it should. Dealers must have specific tools.
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@Pudding (http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=10733) due to the length of my triple square socket and the size of the breaker head, I can't physically put the triple square end into the bolt.
Attempt 2 tomorrow.
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Aye, it’s fruitin’ tight!
Fwiw, I used Halfords triple square bits (a rail selection in 1/2”) and a Halfords breaker and it only just fit, rubbing on the trailing arm slightly, but not enough to skew the tool angle. That gave me about 3” of travel, which was just enough crack em’. It literally is mm precise!
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I had the same problem, you need really shallow triple square bits to be able to get a socket wrench or breaker bar on them, I ended up getting a set from BluePoint but there are cheaper alternatives on eBay.
https://browse.snapon.com/#/product/BLPXZNM389
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I've bought these https://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/manufacturers/silverline_tools/vehicle_and_mechanical/ratchet_spanner_socket_adapter_set_3_sizes_959681_10mm_13mm_19mm_14_38_12_P28588.html
Will allow a 19mm spanner to be put on end of socket. I've measured it and it gives me an extra 3cm of space.
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Use the socket and ratchet and 'tap' (whack as hard as you can) the handle and it should work loose.
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I had the same problem, you need really shallow triple square bits to be able to get a socket wrench or breaker bar on them, I ended up getting a set from BluePoint but there are cheaper alternatives on eBay.
https://browse.snapon.com/#/product/BLPXZNM389
That is a good shout. This job really does come down to tools that will fit in the gap. Everyone likes cramming their big tool into a tight gap, don't they? :smiley:
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T
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Use the socket and ratchet and 'tap' (whack as hard as you can) the handle and it should work loose.
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hello
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Can anyone see my posts? Cos I cant :indifferent:
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I'm having the same problem, can't seem to see the second page.
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:thinking:
Odd.... working now
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Use the socket and ratchet and 'tap' (whack as hard as you can) the handle and it should work loose.
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Just to finish off this thread.....
Rear brakes were a total nightmare!!!
I got one side caliper bolts off after battling for ages. Used a 19mm ring spanner attached to a 'socket to spanner converter's attached to the triple square bit. Had to lie down and push spanner with my foot.
Other side just wouldn't budge. Tried everything. Ended up abandoning and purchasing a Sealey AK6682 Flexi-Head Ratchet Wrench 1/2"Sq Drive Extendable for £30. Made the job about a thousand times easier. Still a bit of a fiddle to get the triple square into the bolt, but managed it. After that it was plain sailing (apart from rounding off the set screw holding the disc onto the hub).
All in, having sourced genuine parts, bought the tools, I still came in under what a garage would charge, and have the satisfaction knowing I did it.
Side note - I forgot to remove the coat hanger I used to hold the caliper.....had a service the other day where they found it - I pleaded ignorance.
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Agreed.
Avoid at all costs.
I think my main problem was, yes, I had the tools (splines) to do the job but I just couldn't bring myself to have the car on stands at the highest setting) with one leg high in the air trying to put through torque on the bolts.
My personal problem was I couldn't get the leverage on the bolts. All my bars just hit the floor.
Just paid a garage to raise it up.
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Having a flex head extendable ratchet either 3/8" or 1/2" makes life a lot easier on this job.
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Penetrating oil and stubby triple squares make short work of this job. I've removed the rear carriers a few times without much difficulty tbh, not entirely sure why folk struggle with it so much!
(https://www.autopartsapi.com/eEuroparts.com/images/parts/lg_9bbf9c7a-15f3-4f89-8171-e2f44d99b1e7.jpg)
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I had to remove a serious amount of crap from the spline bolt before tapping the bit in fully. I used AC90 fluid on the bolts. a few applications and a wire brush :happy2: