MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => How to Guides / Troubleshooting => Topic started by: Patters78 on May 31, 2018, 09:19:26 pm
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Hi guys
Can anyone help my poor 2006 Jetta TDI 140 BKD
So as the title car has sat for a year started and drove probably 2 times over that year just to move it, anyway it was time to bring it back from the dead and start using her again so last month brought all service parts and a new battery.
Battery replaced filters changed didn’t do oil as work halted me getting on the road.
So forward on to this weekend just gone, week off decided to finish it off get it running taxed/insured the egr was faulty so that was replaced the battery was dead so it was charged and put back in.
Started car started on second attempt and I took it for a 5 mile spin all good
Parked back at home repaired a faulty washer hose gave the plastic in the engine bay a clean with a cloth and wd40 then attempted to start it again nothing..
Noticed it only had 5 miles on clock so got some more diesel still don’t start
Following advice on another forum I have done the following
Fuel is being run through filter housing confirmed
Earth studs have been checked cleaned, one snapped when checking so have extended wires and earthed to another point
Tried to jump start from another car resulted in smoke coming from large earth cable under air intake was corroded now cleaned
Have replaced all glow plugs
Battery has been taken off for the night to clear can-bus
Easy start used nothing
I’m now out of options and skill set if I’m honest
Haven’t got vcds located Tamworth if anyone has a good heart lol
Any suggestions
Gonna have to call a mobile mechanic as I cant move it
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There is a list for members with vcds and so on check it out hopefully somone will be close and able to help.
Silly question when you did the service you did do the fuel filter ? Diesels go through them fast
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Yes changed checked today fully clean
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I have also checked all fuses but can someone just look over these photos to make sure nothing is in the wrong place
https://ibb.co/eKqRay
https://ibb.co/grfg8J
Cheers
Yes fuel filter done checked nice and clean
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it does sound like you could do with a vcds have you had a look at the list of members with them and chucked someone a message?
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Only member that is in Tamworth hasn’t been on for a year
Have posted asking for help
Don’t know why but I’m wondering if it’s the battery question if my battery was bad would jumping it bypass the battery or could it still cause issues?
( the reason I ask is my other car 2012 Passat recently had battery issues and I did try the Jetta battery on that and it did the same, I put that down to not enough power ? Unsure )
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Ah think I have made a mistake!
I ordered a 027 battery instead of the 096!!
Would this be the reason it’s not starting! How stupid!! Wow
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I think the only difference is the size of the casing, orientation and type of terminal posts. I cant see that being a problem.
If you have a multimeter you can check the battery to make sure its charged and being charged by your alternator.
When you try to start it does it try to turn over or is it completely dead?
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Turns over and would do until the battery gets flat
You sure it’s not the battery the 027 only has 480CCA while 096 has 640CCA
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So you turn the key and it turns over but dosent start yeah? You turned it over trying till the battery went flat?
Just had a check and the 027 batteries have a lower Ah and CCA that the 096 so this might be the problem i always thought it was the casting and so on.
Where did you get the battery from did they advise you on which one to get or did you choose yourself?
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Take from GSF Car Parts forum post
Details from our system show:
027 - Length 241 mm, Width 175 mm, Height 190 mm, Battery Capacity 60 Ah, Cold-test Current, EN 540 A
096 - Length 278 mm, Width 175 mm, Height 190 mm, Battery Capacity 77 Ah, Cold-test Current, EN 780 A,
But we also list the 065
065 - Length 241 mm, Width 175 mm, Height 175 mm, Battery Capacity 56 Ah, Cold-test Current, EN 480 A, Length 242 mm, Width 175 mm, Height 190 mm
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Is it priming? The in tank fuel pumps seam to be a problem on these from what i can see and they dont throw up any codes. Would explain why its turning over and not starting.
I would defiantly put the right battery in tho just on the safe side
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Yes it’s been turned over till flat obviously not key in constant just over the day gone flat!
I have googled and most people are saying it should be the 096 for 1.9l tdi’s I’ve been a twit and ordered it myself not thinking!
Have reserved a Bosch s3 from eurocarparts collect in the morning
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Yes it’s priming I think right
So took rubber hose off fuel rail after the filter placed them in coke bottle and turned it over both pushed through fuel the lower rail slightly at a lower rate tho?
Don’t know if that makes a difference
But yeah fuel is going through the filter into the rail
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I do have a yellow engine light on but that is from the failed egr vavle tells me emissions garage and won’t go away till the flap opens again but it needs to be driven.
Don’t know if that is masking another fault that would throw up a yellow engine light tho
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Sorry I say egr it’s the inlet manifold flap anti shudder
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ok hopefully it will be the battery but i am unsure if that would case it to turn over but just not start, if not i would suggest get the codes read ideally a vcds but you can use others my friend uses his works snapon or bosch one back in york for his mk6 gti with no problems.
You could also try easy start when turning it over to see if that helps it kick in and at the very least get it up to a garage without expensive towing costs.
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Tried easy start don’t work I need it fault coded I will get the proper battery tho
I’m so tempted to just lift my battery in my 2012 Passat but I’ve only just got that running again due to guess what.... battery and the car needing to be coded to say it’s a new battery.
I’ve also read about engine temp probe can cause no starts so I’ll look at that too
Thanks for your help tho
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no worries bud good luck.
it will be sods law its the battery then haha :signLOL:
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New battery not worked but...
The starter seized while trying to turn it over I have tapped it a bit to try and release it and it’s kinda turning over.
The thing does look rather rusted up expecially at the end where the nut is for the motor bearing? Perhaps not enough revolutions going through the start to kick in engine?
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if the starter dosent have the power to turn the engine over fast enough this could be a problem, you say the car has been sat a while till recently so this could cause it to go.
If you have just put a new battery it will have power to heat up the glow plugs enough for you to jump start it and if it works you should have your problem. or you could change it and try up to you.
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Right then
New starter motor! Still not firing :sad1:
I spent about 10mins maybe 20mins trying to start it and at some points it felt like it was gonna fire right on the edge, but the I heard a kinda clunk noise and when turning the key I just get a click!! Thought no have I killed the new starter so pulled it out again and tested in my back garden all working fine phew!
I also tested the old starter while I was there and it defiantly spun slower and sound like a bearing was loose as the gear just seemed to run a bit loose, the new one seems loads better so I’m happy I swapped it out
So put it back in and swapped over the battery to the old less power one as my new one I thought might be low start turned over tried again for around 10mins was getting close again no fire tho! Smoke out the back not much but some
But then smoke from the starter it was extremely hot! And again it just does one click!
Tried to jump it around 30mins later with leads but after 5-6 turns smoke again
Waiting now for new battery to become fully charged
As possibly calling a mobile mechanic
:surprised:
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Also sorry I’m no mechanic but is this possible
Can I test the starter while it’s attached to the car ie remove the ignition connector and patch a wire directly to the starter see if its a ignition problem?
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if its new starter it wont be that so no need to test it and you say its turning the engine over fine its just not kicking in, i wonder if since it been stood if the injectors are clogged up.
The problem is it could be so many things you have already checked the obvious stuff next would be glow plugs and injectors i would say.
The thing is do you want to carry on yourself eliminating stuff till you find the problem or do you want to get a mechanic in that hopefully can do a scan and find the problem.
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and yes there are a number of ways to test your starter while its in the car if you have a multimeter. plenty of how2s on youtube
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Right so starter is fine just done oil change so that’s new
New battery is charging my only hope now is that the battery is not strong enough yet to fire starter and all electrical components?
Glow plugs have been checked and replaced so should be good
When it’s starts it’s gonna feel like a new car lol 😂
My only option now is to get the battery fully charged try start it if it don’t mobile mech I think
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maybe while you wait give the injectors a going over just to rule them out as well
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Any good guides on that never touched injectors before?
Is it
Rocker cover off
Injector harness off
Rocker off
2 bolts for injector?
I have just been out and tried a google tip and primed the engine like 20 times just turning key to on then off nothing but at the engine you can clearly smell fuel so I think I can rule out pump
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yeah thats it.
from what i know =
1) 10mm for the rocker cover bolts and take it off, sometimes taking the timing belt cover off can help you take it off it should have 2 clips one on each side and just pull off, i dont think this is always necessary but can help taking the rocker cover off.
2) Un clip the injector loom, just be careful rocking them side to side to get them off works but can be stuck on and you dont want to brake them. The heat can make them brittle after time.
3) M10 spline bit to take the rocker off.
4) M6 spline bit to take out the injector locator bolt, 1 on each injector.
5) useing the injector remover to remove the injector - if you dont have one wiggle the injector side to side to break the seal and you can use some rope put under the injector while wiggling it to remove it just dont go overboard with wiggling and pulling it shouldn't flex much.
6) Check to see if your injector is F$%£&D :happy2:
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Cheers good tips
The wiring harness inside I know I don’t have to remove it but I have someone saying that the terminals can get loose over time causing starting issues, how do you remove the big round multi connector? I have seen a red clip pull that toward then you can rotate part of the outside harness off but I can’t get the rest out?
There is a metal clip inside that I’m not sure does anything it just seems to twist inside ?
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Just spotted another thing thanks to Google’s help!
Just went and checked the inlet manifold flap and it’s shut?
Now I can’t try turning the engine as the rocker is off but should it be closed or open surely if closed that could be my problem?
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Right with the key to second position the flap stays shut! That can’t be right?
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ok the inlet manifold throttle body should be open when the engine is turned off, i think please dont quote me on this this is something i haven't messed around with on diesel cars and dont want to give you information i am not sure on.
From what i can remember its located just back from where the egr pipe goes into the inlet next to the pipe from the throttle body?
Take it out give it a clean hopefully its just stuck.
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If you read my original post I put changed egr I don’t know why I call it that but I meant the throttle body or as Vw put it inlet manifold flap common issue on bkd engines it will be the second one this car has had.
Anyway it’s a new part so more googling
The flap closes when the car is turned off to prevent shudder so I’d say it should be closed when the car is off, but should open again at end start I’d say that would be key in second position.
Now you should also be able to unplug it and just move the flap where you want it but I have just tested mine and I can budge it? Getting removed first thing fingers crossed I can bodge it open for now!
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sounds like you know more about this than i do hehe
i love how parts can have 2/3 names makes finding and talking about parts so much more fun dont you htink :signLOL:
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Right so it’s firing :laugh:
Took inlet manifold off and behind it was a big pool of oil flap stuck shut new part remember had to hammer it open!
Reattached and didn’t insert connector fired first time but with a big proof of white smoke... it’s was due a mot today at 10 and it was just firing white smoke took it up and down the road started to lessen and turned a blue color! Hopefully it just needs burning off due to the failed start attempts
Think it’s gonna fail the emissions tho
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i wonder whats caused all the oil to be there.
Hopefully its because it has been sat for so long but i would defiantly keep an eye on it.
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Failed mot said emissions but he was referring to the warning emissions message on the car and check engine light also rear seat not being in!
Car is now not smoking have plugged inlet manifold back in and it’s seems to be working as should perhaps the engine kicked out some oil and crap and that caused it to stick shut?
As for the oil being there it’s a common thing the egr has 2 valves that leak oil doesn’t effect the car and is only cosmetic on all my Vw cars they have been mucky around the egr and pipe leading down
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Sounds like you need to get the seat back in and sorted and just have the fault codes wiped will the garage you have the car in for mot not wipe the codes for you?
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Yeah they wanted to charge me £30 for this
Brought a cheap £15 scanner plugged in scanned codes 6 codes found, cleared them took it for a drive rescanned and all clear no more lights
👍
Thanks for your help sometimes it’s nice to just throw ppl ideas etc
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Your more than welcome bud glad to be of use for once plus i am stuck doing mainly bodywork atm so its a nice change to talk about something else thats not a furkig rusty front wing :signLOL:
got to love the cheap scanners amazing how good some of them are these days go back 10 years and the £15 scanners wouldn't connect to its own battery let alone your car and clear codes bahaha.