MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Members Rides => Topic started by: fuscobal on March 06, 2010, 10:43:36 pm
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Hello guys. Although I've been an old member of Vortex and golfmk5.com, I've discovered these forums recently through a friend and decided to join you. Here's my ride :
Car :
- VW Golf 5 GTI MY2006(AXX engine code)
Performance mods :
- K04 turbocharger
- S3 injectors
- S3 camshafts
- Integrated Engineering Rods
- Calico rod bearings
- Autotech HPFP
- S3 intercooler
- Milltek non-res turbo-back
- Evoms CAI
- PCV fix
- S3 front brakes + Tarox F2000 discs + DS2500 pads
- Bilstein B16/PSS10 coilovers
- BSH solid 27mm RSB
- H&R solid 26mm FSB
- Peloquin LSD
- Sachs racing SMF clutch
- Forge short shift
- BSH pendeleum engine mount
- BBS RS-GT rims on 8.5x19"
- Goodyear F1 asymmetric tires on 235/35/19
- STRI racing gauges (oil press, oil temp, boost)
- Revo stage 3 software
Future performance mods :
- Forge twintercooler (have it, waiting for better weather to log before and after the install)
- 42DD + FFE shifter bushings (on the way)
- RS4 fuel pressure regulator valve (on the way)
Audio mods :
- Clarion DRZ9255 head unit
- Audison VRX 4.300, 2.150 & 1.500
- 2 x Micro precision 7 series midbass drivers
- Scan-Speak 12M revelator midrange drivers
- Scan-Speak 2904/700000 revelator tweeter
- Brax Matrix 10.1 subwoofer
- Custom made door panels, tweeter pods and subwoofer enclosure
- Stinger, Aurix & Audison cables
- Power cell batery
- Dynamat, STP & Alcantara insonorisation
The latest dyno showed 374HP and 462NM but unfortunately the car is very heavy due to the audio system > about 1550kg without driver
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Welcome to the forum. :happy2:
So any plans to mod the car. :grin:
I think we need pics. :pomppomp:
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nice car dude
welcome :wink:
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I'd like to post some pics but there is no "attachment" option and when I tried to embed some images uploaded in Imageshack, the forum blocked for about 5 minutes !
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http://img412.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=99083755.jpg
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Wellcome Fuscobal, actually you have spoken with me on the american forum and guided my first mods :happy2:
Lots of informative peeps here, look in the events tread, they are going to wörthersee and the ring in may, might interest you to come along??
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(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg43.imageshack.us%2Fimg43%2F1637%2F85219506.jpg&hash=cbf138bc53fbcd7add33d359af2e3da110276518)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg693.imageshack.us%2Fimg693%2F9562%2F96070633.jpg&hash=4cf960e9af767e78a085b56cc8c62458ea312327)
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We will be also going to the Ring between 28th april and 2 may. We already reserved the rooms ! :) Thanks for the invitation, I will take a look at future events !
Stokebaloon, how can I embed the pics like you ? I have many with the interior also !
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Copy the image address as in and paste it as below........
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/1637/85219506.jpg
then highlight it all and press the img icon, 2nd row orange oblong icon.
That will add [ img ] at the start and [ /img ] at the end with no spaces, and allied with your address will become
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg43.imageshack.us%2Fimg43%2F1637%2F85219506.jpg&hash=cbf138bc53fbcd7add33d359af2e3da110276518)
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welcome to the forum
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welcome, some crazy mods there dude :congrats:
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Hey bro, welcome!
Glad you joined. :congrats:
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Welcome, Thats a lot of horses and torques you have there and very OEM + on the outside :drool:
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Great list of mods, and it sits lovely on the road. :congrats:
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Thanks for the tip. Here we go then :
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg684.imageshack.us%2Fimg684%2F3906%2Fimg8297m.jpg&hash=c9e6ce6627dfe7399b33e5de8d0ccea68424ea90)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg684.imageshack.us%2Fimg684%2F4155%2F24205344.jpg&hash=1a4a3d5af58ef4d489938c7c8fa578a9ce7470fd)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg690.imageshack.us%2Fimg690%2F1327%2F60712092.jpg&hash=6634e1d0ccab048f7d81a4b9af370e7d0215800e)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg191.imageshack.us%2Fimg191%2F9407%2F51354428.jpg&hash=d294b0ff82e7188972dc7d8ce41024a7e9a83683)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg85.imageshack.us%2Fimg85%2F3397%2F22346845.jpg&hash=dcc5fae34e7ccbe9ccab309a2a4566264c3f467e)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg36.imageshack.us%2Fimg36%2F1348%2F53949514.jpg&hash=137315ca7b79611a916eafea1859c98f6b89517c)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg694.imageshack.us%2Fimg694%2F893%2F59037861.jpg&hash=44f209e86a96d36a68cbc9ff0f2aea3219e39084)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg51.imageshack.us%2Fimg51%2F118%2F55081103.jpg&hash=5961677942de3e3da6d0750994784e21f6d0a9a1)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg33.imageshack.us%2Fimg33%2F8497%2F57467886.jpg&hash=c8846d2648fd04c2b5d27484b9dc5641692c98ed)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg193.imageshack.us%2Fimg193%2F5706%2F83420827.jpg&hash=82881111dfa65a20370c32b0bdee673bb509a845)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg51.imageshack.us%2Fimg51%2F9347%2F54740994.jpg&hash=5c9dd84a24cb809f9746c9b5240f6ace0700cd03)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg651.imageshack.us%2Fimg651%2F1000%2F88407355.jpg&hash=bf1c7957acda929eeeed9fab290c757363a96a4b)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg256.imageshack.us%2Fimg256%2F1953%2F69072705.jpg&hash=594068ea220d4085b56d8fca06c8cf608e881e19)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg46.imageshack.us%2Fimg46%2F8740%2F64976561.jpg&hash=325abf43ac1cfec632fa15579e4e04979181d47b)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg412.imageshack.us%2Fimg412%2F8509%2F14650666.jpg&hash=9eba6c9ad5e492c1d6b5b5b02656b0ecd5fc8708)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg230.imageshack.us%2Fimg230%2F3347%2F75547628.jpg&hash=cd0138718f2d53123334008fa57ea1b9fa7f708e)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg11.imageshack.us%2Fimg11%2F7931%2F52522224.jpg&hash=c5f3564b4317f17b21dc1a24af86c561283bdd92)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg163.imageshack.us%2Fimg163%2F6843%2F81499470.jpg&hash=213ccf61a0d22c94249daaabac0348c47aa1db1c)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg695.imageshack.us%2Fimg695%2F5281%2F72465704.jpg&hash=ed22543aa6e5bd8f539a03dd8258d1158811613a)
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And here are some pics from the latest work to the subwoofer enclosure. I still have to add the grill and custom mats !
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg202.imageshack.us%2Fimg202%2F6448%2Fimg1274ierodsnimic.jpg&hash=c53fd1b25486d3ef66766a9283c71b3e664a0a9c)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg211.imageshack.us%2Fimg211%2F1075%2Fimg1266ierodsnimic.jpg&hash=bf3b6ebbe3de043e23b0b695fa0e204eaf73aa2f)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg246.imageshack.us%2Fimg246%2F2981%2Fimg1263ierodsnimic.jpg&hash=4ba3c75b3df3b0d4913834c36551f37c82302aa8)
And some other pics of the car >
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg155.imageshack.us%2Fimg155%2F4535%2F92276920.jpg&hash=104a58f798d37a9499e4c2e3b96876c9b545a4b9)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg696.imageshack.us%2Fimg696%2F9205%2F37939475.jpg&hash=a08ce4be3ca2ac966f508fd36ea0a53c5c645791)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg43.imageshack.us%2Fimg43%2F1249%2F62098086.jpg&hash=f7dba8451b557f7bf04abaa43a95269404ff4942)
Yes, Gobbleplease, I very much preffer the OEM exterior to all the kits on the market today. The only external mod I would do is the thunderbunny front bumper but I find it way too expensive ! The car participated in 2 EMMA european finals at sound-quality and won 3rd place each time. This year , after several improvements in the sound system, it will participate again and hopefully I will become european champion :)
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AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME, this is my kind of build thread. super cool builds man. going to be doing mine this week fingers crossed only took me 6 months to get round to it ha ha :rolleye:
Keep up the strong work :happy2:
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the most beautifull gti that i know 8)
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:drool: :drool: wow, awesome car. I wish one day i could get a ride in it
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Some really good mods there matey, keep up the good work :notworthy: :drool:
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Hey mate, why don't you tell the guys about the latest mods installed on the fuscomobil? :pomppomp:
@all: don't laugh (too hard) about the "fuscomobil" thing... it's the name I gave to the beast, inspired from Batman's car. :signLOL:
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awesome mods and creative with the stereo!
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:happy2:
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Did you fit the fuel pressure reg valve?
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Yes, the twintercooler, shifter bushing and RS4 valve have been installed...all working great. Just received my Carbotech RP2 pads for track use. These pads have been designed for R-compound tires only, being too strong for street tires. Fade temperatures for the pads that I own :
- Ferodo DS2500 > 540 deg Celsius > I use them on street
- Carbotech XP10 > 870 deg Celsius > I used them on my last track days from 2009 and 2010 at Nurburgring and Hungaroring
- Carbotech RP2 > 1100 deg Celsius > I will use them starting from this spring. They are the equivalent of XP12 in terms of grip but they are endurance pads and last 2 times more. I've laso weighed these and they have 1126g/pair
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg41.imageshack.us%2Fimg41%2F6484%2Fcarbotechrp26.jpg&hash=a158a1d3ba314ea84dfb8abaa78adc5e52b12b73) (http://img41.imageshack.us/i/carbotechrp26.jpg/)
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very nice speaker set up :happy2:
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Time for some updates since many happened to the car since my last post
18.03.2011
Car's weight without driver + 55% gas :
Front left > 442Kg
Front right > 515Kg
Rear left > 339.5Kg
Rear right > 279Kg
TOTAL > 1575.5Kg
Car's weight + driver + 55% gas :
Front left > 474Kg
Front right > 530Kg
Rear left > 372Kg
Rear right > 288Kg
TOTAL > 1664Kg
The difference between the 2 measurements = 88.5Kg, meaning exactly my weight :
My weight distribution on the 4 wheels :
Front left > 32Kg
Front right > 15Kg
Rear left > 32.5Kg
Rear right > 9Kg
TOTAL > 88.5Kg
It's interesting to notice that on the left side, more of my weight went to the rear wheel than the front one, meaning that either my CG is more towards the rear than the car's CG (hard to believe), either the rear suspension compresses more under the same weight than the front one.
Weight distribution including driver :
Left - right :
Left = 846Kg > 50.84%
Right = 818Kg > 49.16%
Front - rear :
Front = 1004 > 60.34%
Rear = 660Kg > 39.66%
Cross weight :
Front left - Rear right = 762Kg > 45.79%
Front right - Rear left = 902Kg > 54.21%
If the left - right distribution is pretty good, you can clearly see the cross weights are very different. The front right must be heavier due to the subwoofer from the passenger's feet and the rear left might be heavier because the car is lower on that side. This distribution may also be related to the stiff roll-bars.
Car's CG position on a horisontal plane :
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg716.imageshack.us%2Fimg716%2F3514%2Fgtimassdistribution.jpg&hash=56dd22a3f6bf8c1742b1da8893d99f3df624fa9a) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/716/gtimassdistribution.jpg/)
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Car's CG position on a vertical plane :
You first need to weigh the car on a horisontal plane (did that), then you need to raise the rear of the car by say 30-40cm and only weigh the front this time (you need to completely block suspension movement (this is kind of hard to accomplish by me). The position of the CG on the vertical axxis is necessary in order to be compared with the rotation center (CR) of the car wich can be obtained like this > On a transversal section of the car, you draw a line parralel to the lower arm and one perpendicullar to the damper on the upper side of this one. From the point where these 2 intersect, you draw a third line to the point where the middle of the tire meets the road. The intersection of this line with the vertical symmetry axxis of the car gives the CRSe traseaza o dreapta in prelungirea bratelor inferioare si o dreapta perpendiculara pe amortizor plecand din partea de sus a acestuia (la flansa). The closer the CG and CR are, the less body roll you have and the chassis will lean less on both directions !
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg402.imageshack.us%2Fimg402%2F287%2Fgtifrontaxle.jpg&hash=10db03d2efe4d6f552e1120954ebc3942cf1d599) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/402/gtifrontaxle.jpg/)
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01.04.2011
Installed the following items :
- BSH OCV revamp wich replaces the originl PCV
- USP Fluidampr wich should remove some of the SMF chatter, better dampen the crankshaft's vibration at high RPMs. The Fluidampr has 2738g while the OEM only 1639g.
- USP SS clutch line to better hold the pressure of the hidraulic system.
- Replaced one of the engine mounts with a new OEM one wich looks pretty different than the one that came with the car 5 years ago !
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg694.imageshack.us%2Fimg694%2F6168%2F310320111.jpg&hash=d2773b81b782d9d0c351f82f130e384b99092897) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/694/310320111.jpg/)
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18.04.2011
Removed some weight for the incoming Hungaroring track day :
- subwoofer + enclosure > 34.5Kg
- spare wheel + tools > 17.5Kg
- MDF board over the amplifiers > 8.2Kg
TOTAL : - 60Kg from the last track day
To follow :
- S3 front reinforcement bar (aluminium vs steel on GTI) > -10Kg ?
- Odyssey racing battery wich has 12.5Kg (27Kg for my current deep cycle one) > -14.5Kg
- Recaro Poleposition > -30Kg
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07.05.2011
Installed the A3 reinforcement bar, S3 spindles and the Tyrolsport bushings on the R32 front brakes.
Weight :
- GTI reinforcement bar> 7.1Kg
- A3 reinforcement bar > 5.3Kg
- bearing > 3.226-3.240Kg (GTI si S3 are the same)
- GTI spindle > 4.413Kg
- S3 spindle > 2.928Kg
Weight difference on the spindles : aprox 1.5Kg/corner
Weight difference on the reinforcement bars : aprox 1.8Kg (much less than estimated)
Wheel position :
Didn't do any exact measurement but it goes like this :
With 235/35/19 on 8.5J BBS RS-GT rims :
- OEM arms + OEM spindles > the wheel is perfectly aligned with the fender
- TT arms + OEM spindles > the wheel stitches out of the fender by approx. 7mm
- TT arms + S3 spindles > the wheel stitches out of the fender by approx. 10mm
On the road :
The steering feels a little lighter and more responsive but what amazed me the most was the comfort increased ?!?! (while the damping and rebound are as fast as before, the suspension doesn't feel as crashy as before). The only logical explanation I found was the damper works better due to the lower mass of the new spindle !
Install :
As you can see on the pics, the TT arms cannot be installed above the balljoint as on TT because they touch the spindle. I installed them just like on the OEM GTI
Reinforcement bar install :
Unfortunately the weight difference was too small so I wouldn't do it again as the trouble to install it was too big > had to fabricate new brackets and the hook cannot be used anymore also
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Weight deducted until now :
- subwoofer + enclosure > 34.5Kg
- spare wheel + tools > 17.5Kg
- Mdf board over the amplifiers > 8.2Kg
- rear seats (back only) > 27.5Kg
- Front reinforcement bar > 1.8Kg
- S3 spindles> 3Kg
TOTAL : 92.5Kg
Next :
- Battery > 15Kg
- Recaro Poleposition > 28Kg (OEM seats have 26Kg with leather, heating and lumbar support)
- Brakes > 18Kg
- Wheels > 12Kg
TOTAL : 73Kg
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01.07.2011
Previous weight measurement :
Car's weight + driver + 55% gas :
Front left > 474Kg
Front right > 530Kg
Rear left > 372Kg
Rear right > 288Kg
TOTAL > 1664Kg
...new measurement :
Car's weight + driver + 27% gas :
Front left > 490Kg
Front right > 483.5Kg
Rear left > 310Kg
Rear right > 268Kg
TOTAL > 1551.5Kg
Taking into account the gas difference of 55%-27% = 28% from 55L = 15.4L, we would have had the equivalent of 1551.5+15.4 = 1567Kg, meaning 97Kg less than the previous measurement from 2010 !
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This is some serious modding mate. A fine example :happy2:
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nice job. please tell us about your latest upgrade :drool: :drool:
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Tomorrow Teff, too tired now :)
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Ok, here comes the time for my latest update >
Just finished instaling a new brake system, much more capable and lighter than my previous R32 brake system (wich served me exemplary on track). The new system is Ap Racing Pro 5000+ and was purchased from our colegue Stefan (Teff) about 2 month ago. The fun started when, trying to install the brakes I noticed they won't fit the S3 spindles wich have thicker legs than the OEm GTI ones. Because I didn't want to give up the S3 spindles (lower weight , lighter steering feel and increased comfort), I decided to design a new caliper carrier myself and find a CNC machine to execute it. The new carrier was different in 2 places than the original AP Racing one :
1) The new carrier needed to be lenghtened by 16mm in order to fit the S3 spindle
2) The new carrier needed to be filed on the lower side because it was touching the TT arm with the wheel turned to the max. ( I manually filed the old carrier to find out where it didn't hit the arm anymore)
I then made an Autocad drawing of the carrier and send it to our beloved colegue DaveB for manufacturing (the shop that makes the parts for Dave also makes parts for Red Bull racing F1). Unfortunately they made 2 mistakes on the new carriers wich I saw when I was with the car on the ramp ready for the install:
1) The pitch of the thread of the M12 bolts was 1.5 instead of 1.75 so I decided to make new bolts because it was faster than sending the carriers back. It was hard to find bolts with 1.75 pitch and allen key head but I fabricated some from a strong alloy (not so strong as the original Ap ones though)
2) The original carrier had a milling (cutting) that was there to clear the pad ears (probably the guys from the machining shop considered this useless or they forgot about it. I found a machine to make the cutting but afterwards the hard anodizing on that area was compromised so I found a high temperature paint spray wich I used to protect that area (not as good as anodizing but hopefully will protect the aluminium carrier.
PS : I acomplished all these in one day only with the help of my friend Teff wich had the patience to carry me around town the whole day (my car was on the ramp and it took me the whole day to make the mods but succeded to install the brakes on the evening of the same day)
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1) The braking system in its original state (when Teff bought it)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg560.imageshack.us%2Fimg560%2F4754%2Fapracingpro50001.jpg&hash=a922ee915067cf2efdd0b8e199fd3933eee2ffaa) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/560/apracingpro50001.jpg/)
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2) Manual cutting of the old carrier and measurements taken for the new carrier
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3) Designing the new carriers
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4) New carrier vs old carrier
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5) Cutting the area that cleared the brake pad ears and painting for protection
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6) Brake system install, R32 caliper vs AP caliper, Ap brakes + TD Pro race 1.2 rims (no tires yet)
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R32 345x30mm weight > 40Kg
Ap Racing 362x32mm weight > 28Kg
Weight loss until now :
- subwoofer + enclosure > 34.5Kg
- spare wheel + tools > 17.5Kg
- MDF board over the amplifiers > 8.2Kg
- Rear seats > 27.5Kg
- Front reinforcement bar > 1.8Kg
- S3 spindles > 3Kg
- Braking system > 12Kg
TOTAL : 104.5Kg
TD 8x18'' rims have 9.2Kg/pc but knowing I'll be using a 235/40/18 tire, they will be weighing about the same as my 17'' OEM denvers + 225/45/17 tires
Next : 235/40/18 (probably Toyo R888 because Kumho makes only 225 & 245), Recaro Polepositions, lighter battery and possibly some mods to the amplifier's area on the trunk !
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Very nice indeed. :notworthy:
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Excellent work Fuscobal, i'm watching this closely as i'm awaiting new adaptors for my Tarox 10 pots 330mm solution :happy2: :notworthy:
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looks really good!
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amazing pics !!
:happy2:
Did you optimize the weight distribution yet?
Guess you had to raise front left and right rear a bit.
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These is huge! :drool:
Look's great! :drool:
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No weight optimization until I finish installing all parts. It will be done sometime before the first track day next year. In the meantime, I opted for Toyo R888 on 235/40/18 wich are more like 245 (measured by me). They are indeed 20mm wider than my Kumho V70 and I will need wider fenders on front. The wheels weigh in only 20.5Kg wich is 0.5Kg less than the 17'' with 20mm narrower tires. The bad news is the baseframes for my Recaros came and they are frickin heavy. The seat + sidemounts has 10Kg and the baseframe 7Kg. All in all, the seat has 17Kg (instead of 12Kg as everybody said)
Weight loss until now :
- subwoofer + enclosure > 34.5Kg
- spare wheel + tools > 17.5Kg
- MDF board over the amplifiers > 8.2Kg
- Rear seats > 27.5Kg
- Front reinforcement bar > 1.8Kg
- S3 spindles > 3Kg
- Braking system > 12Kg
- Recaro Poleposition > 18Kg
- 18'' TD + 235/40/18 R888 > 2Kg
- rear bench > 5Kg
TOTAL : 129.5Kg
In order for me to compensate this, I decided to replace the rear amplifiers + rack with lighter amps wich also won't need a rack since they will fit inside the spare wheel area. The rack + amplifer had 40Kg and the new amps will be less than 15Kg (these amps are also high end so there will be no loss in sound quality)
Pics with the seats will come soon as only one of them is installed on the car now !
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What did AP answer when you asked for winter dirt with the non sealed calipers?
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Nothing cause I forgot to ask them. Anyway, with the new brakes, my 17'' OEM rims + winter tires don't fit anymore so I won't be using the car anymore during winter. I'll keep the car in the garage and drive the mighty Fiesta (1.2, 60HP :) )
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my 17'' OEM rims + winter tires don't fit anymore so....
My advice would be to sell them on very cheaply to me :grin:
The car is looking fantastic mate :happy2: :happy2:
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wow love the audio in the car--You must know Mark Turner from the uk with the Pioneer bmw!!love them brakes :notworthy:
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Don't know him by the name but perhaps if I see him I recognise him. Didn't attend EMMA Eurofinals since 2008 so I'm a little bit outdated now. Keano, the winter wheels were sold before going out of the car :) !
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Thanks for the tip. Here we go then :
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Hope I don't get in trouble for this, but I can't justify censoring what I am about to say, because you deserve nothing less than a HOLY sh*t. (never mind, it censored it automatically, I tried)
-Neil k
Absolutely spectacular.
-
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Looks awesome!
Will you be leaving the colour of the seats black?
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Don't know yet but will certainly rework the leather sometime next year !
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:happy2: :happy2: :happy2:
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Love the gloss black backs !!!
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I have finally succeded installing the new Sinfoni amplifiers. To my surprise, the sound was similar to the VRX on mids and highs but faster and more precise on midbass and sub. It's a double success : better sound and much lower weight. the 3 VRX amps + 2 MDF boards had 40Kg and the 4 Sinfonis + aluminium mounts have only 15Kg !
Weight deducted until now :
- subwoofer + enclosure > 34.5Kg
- spare wheel + tools > 17.5Kg
- MDF board over the amps > 8.2Kg
- Rear seats > 27.5Kg
- Front reinforcing bar > 1.8Kg
- S3 hubs > 3Kg
- Braking system > 12Kg
- 18'' wheels > 2Kg
- Recaro seats > 18Kg
- Lower rear bench > 5Kg
- Sinfoni amplifiers > 25Kg
TOTAL until now : 154.5Kg
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Another good & technical post by fuscobal. Good job :congrats: can't wait to get my Sinfoni amps in the car
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I like this:
http://www.stereophile.com/solidpoweramps/1197pass
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/firstwatt3/alephj.html
http://www.analog-forum.de/wbboard/index.php?page=Thread&threadID=36807
:happy2:
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Bruce, those are all good choices but Nelson improved even more the sound on the new generations (XA.5 and X.5). I'm using the XP10 preamp & X250.5 amp combo in my house and they are great amplifiers with insane levels of dynamics and crystal clean output !
Going back to the car now, does anyone have a comparison between the OEM/CARBON versions of the hood and trunk lid) ? I know the OEM hood is 15Kg but don't know how much for the boot lid. I also don't know the weigt of the Seibon equivalents. I'm looking for the vented hood that Seibon makes but they have a shaved version and a normal version. Wich is the weight on each ? Can they be painted black if they are carbon ?
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Sadly I had my hands on a brand new genuine Becker/VWM hood in 2010,
but I decided against it.
If you can afford it I would send an email to Bildon and Becker Carbon who
manufacture the carbon parts for Volkswagen.
ps:
great amps !! :happy2:
I use horn speaker and so I need very little power. The Aleph J is my second
Pass DIY project after the PearlOno.
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Why did u decide against it ? That one is clearly the lightest of all with only 4kg and dry carbon. Seibon replied today and said the Dv shaved hood has around 11kg and the boot lid about 9kg. I would spend money on a 4kg hood but 11kg is too close to the OEM weight to deserve the money. Bruce, do you recall if the VWM hood was vented or OEm style and the price ? I will mail them in march/april when I'll have the money. First, the kerscher fenders, Odyssey battery and RS29 pads are on the list !
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I hardly regret my decision. :ashamed: :ashamed: :ashamed:
I didn't like the vents and the trouble with TÜV etc.. At that time
my GTI was almost stock.
You're right. The best available quality and the most lightweight.
Put you fingers in my wound . . . .
:scared: :jumping:
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I need a set of those seats!!. :love:
Very nice job. :congrats:
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What was the price of the hood Bruce ? Donal, I got them second hand at half price. One of them was new, the other was on a car for like a month so very good deal !
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I remember a mate first told me about 500,-- €, then 600,-- €. I felt
a bit disappointed about the raising price. But it's gone anyway. :sad1:
The hood was brand new from Volkswagen Motorsport Hannover stock.
At that time their activities switched from the Mk.V to the Mk.VI.
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Damn, that's a great price. Isn't that hood the same that Bildon sells in US for 1800$ (GFK - street approved) and 2500$ (CFK) ?
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Yes, fwik Bildon sells the same genuine VWM parts made by Becker.
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I wonder what would be the difference in weight between the CFK and GFK ? I suppose the CFK (race version) wich is more expensive has 4kg (as VW racing advises) and the other one is a little bit heavier !?
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Fuscobal, VWRacing UK does not do the 4kg CF hood anymore i'm afraid :sad1: :fighting:
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So I've heard but maybe if its the same as VW motorsport and bildon, they will find some forgoten somewhere that did not sell before replacing the racing Golf 5 with the Golf 6 !
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Give them a call !! :wink:
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What was the price of the hood Bruce ? Donal, I got them second hand at half price. One of them was new, the other was on a car for like a month so very good deal !
You hardly want to sell them on again to me for the same price. :signLOL:
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rex spoke with vwm on email and they just said they don't sell parts (wich was to be expected) but they didn't reply when asked to provide a seller in Europe (besides Bildon who's in US). Seibon makes the closest looking hood to vwm but it's much heavier and costs 750Euro + shipping ! Don't know how good it's quality is compared to vwm but they should both provide better engine cooling and air flow through radiators. The other hoods on the market with vents closer to the windshield where air pressure builds are just wrong as they will not let the air out > http://autospeed.com.au/cms/gallery/article.html?slideshow=0&a=2455&i=4
http://www.seiboncarbon.com/products/carbon-fiber/hoods/HD0607VWGTI-DV/
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.... they should both provide better engine cooling and air flow through radiators. The other hoods on the market with vents closer to the windshield where air pressure builds are just wrong as they will not let the air out
You are right !! :happy2:
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rex spoke with vwm on email and they just said they don't sell parts (wich was to be expected) but they didn't reply when asked to provide a seller in Europe (besides Bildon who's in US). Seibon makes the closest looking hood to vwm but it's much heavier and costs 750Euro + shipping ! Don't know how good it's quality is compared to vwm but they should both provide better engine cooling and air flow through radiators. The other hoods on the market with vents closer to the windshield where air pressure builds are just wrong as they will not let the air out > http://autospeed.com.au/cms/gallery/article.html?slideshow=0&a=2455&i=4
http://www.seiboncarbon.com/products/carbon-fiber/hoods/HD0607VWGTI-DV/
You haven't considered Osir?? :happy2:
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Osir told me their bonnet is under 7kg wich is very good compared to Seibon but the vent is in the wrong position and the price is also much higher than Seibon + bringing it from US would add 50% to theprice from shipping and taxes !
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loving the audio!!
are the mids in the door cards sealed or venting into the door??
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The mids are on the dash. The midbasses are venting into the door because the Microprecision 7 are infinite baffle drivers. A sealed enclosure for 2 x 16.5 drivers would need a volume that cannot be obtained inside a door (I mean the door has the volume but it's impossible to seal it as you have the windows and water that has to drain on the lower part of the door) !
This is what Osir offers right now > http://www.osirusa.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=VGTI-CFHGT1-DCF&Category_Code=VJETEB
I'm a bit confused as of wich one is the lightest of all, wich one can be painted and does the vented one have any real benefit of cooling the turbo knowing there is positive pressure on that area pushing the hot air back (not allowing it to exit from under the hood) ?
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Ok, found some info that I've missed before > http://www.osirdesign.com.au/GTI_CFH.htm
CFH GT1 and CFH GT2 offers 2 versions, single sided and double sided
CFH GT1 and CFH GT2 uses special reenforce compound coating which can withstand high pressures
This special coating keeps your hood in shape all the time
CFH GT1 and CFH GT2 lets you use the factory latch and hood stand with no modifications needed
Factory hood weight 13.6kg
CFH GT1 and CFH GT2 Single side (carbon out only) weight less than 7kg
CFH GT1 and CFH GT2 Double sides (carbon inside out) weight less than 8kg Looks good even the hood is opened
Knowing the weight is my main purpose, the single sided wich is much cheaper and a little lighter also would be my main bet. Now...can it be painted black and would be any real benefit to buy the vented one (same price vented or OEM like) ?
Yesterday I've removed the rear seat belts assemby wich was a 2Kg saving
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Because I got bored today, I made some aerodynamic calculations for the Hungaroring track today :
- Car's weight > m = 1450Kg
- Car weight + downforce > N = 1520Kg (OEM car has 0kg front@160kmh and -20kg rear@160kmh. I've considered an addition of 20kg front brought by an air dam/splitter and 70kg rear from an 1400mm span wing with 225mm width and 10deg AOA. On the rear I've substracted the 20kg lift of the OEM car from the 70kg addition brought by the wing so I've got about 50kg left. The wing considered was the Reverie 225mm wich is a moderate downforce wing (wouldn't want something too big wich would hurt the car's look or bring too much rear downforce wich may cause front lift). N@160kmh resulted by adding the downforce to the car's weight, so 1450+20+50 = 1520kg, from wich only1450kg will generate inertia and centrifugal force.
- Hungaroring length> 4381m
- Hungaroring cornering length> 675m (15 turns)
- medium cornering radius R = 55.5m
- Friction coeff between semislick and asphalt > u = 1.2 (Don't have an exact value so this is an approximation. However, even with a different value, the difference would remain because it would appear in both formulas and deduct itself)
The car's equilibrium at the limit would be Fn = Ff
Fn = u * N (for OEM car N1 = m = 1450kg, for the car with downforce addition, N2 = 1520kg)
Ff = m * V^2 / R
In the 2 situations, the car's speed on a circle with 55.5m radius would be :
1) OEM car > v1 = sqrt(Fn1 * R / m) = 8.161m/s^2
2) Aerodynamically enhanced car > v2 = sqrt(Fn2 * R / m) = 8.356m/s^2
Knowing the cornering total distance of the track is L = 675m, at the 2 speeds, this would be driven in t1 = 82.71s by the OEM car and in t2 = 80.78s by the aerodynamically enhanced vehicle. From here, we can see there's a 1.93sec improvement in lap time wich is not negligeable at all.
Considerations :
1) The cornering length and medium radius were taken from a database but for accurate calculations each corner would have to be accounted separately with its radius and arc length. I supposed the car is spinning inside a 55.5m radius circle for a distance of 675m
2) The aerodynamics of the stock car was approximated from Bruce's post on ''improving aerodynamics with OEM parts'' topic !
3) I did'n consider my car's riding height wich is probably about 30mm lower than OEM. Normally this should bring extra downforce by increasing the undercar air speed and decreasing pressure but as I don't have any data, I can't approximate the addition
4) I didn't also account for the chassis body roll and different tire loads.
5) I didn't take into account the effect of the greater corner exit speed on straights wich would bring time improvement on straights also (maybe another 1sec even !!!)
To follow :
- 30mm wider Kerscher wings > maybe 1-2kg weight reduction being they are ABS as opposed to iron sheet
- Odyssey ER40 deep-cycle > - 15Kg
- Carbon Osir hood > -7Kg
- VwRacing air dam > +2Kg (don't actually know the difference between the OEm one and this)
- Rear carbon wing > +3Kg (same as above)
- Maybe another set of fixed Recaro sidemounts for track days (or custom made ones) wich will replace the sliding rails > - 12-14Kg
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Great posting, Fuscobal !! Like things like that. :happy2: :happy2:
I didn't recalculate that of course, but I'm sure you're on the right way.
These points are the ones I'd have told you if didn't wrote it by yourself:
4) I didn't also account for the chassis body roll and different tire loads.
5) I didn't take into account the effect of the greater corner exit speed on straights
wich would bring time improvement on straights also (maybe another 1sec even !!!)
The body roll and suspension + tyre flex will cost you a second, the in-
creased corner exit speeds will give you the same the same second back.
:wink:
ps:
I forgot to answer your question about the effect of a lowered car. Unless
don't have numbers I guess lift will be reduced by between 10 - 20 % or
somewhere about 50 N. So lift on front is almost zero and rear ~ 30 kg
@ 200 km/h.
pps:
Fuscobal, there is something irritating me: :laugh:
Aerodynamic engineers talk about ''lift'' (positive numbers). If there's downforce
theses number are negative, cos it's just negative lift. It's because aerodynamics
mainly is to built planes, not cars.
I know racing engineers talk about downforce, so little confusing.
-
Yes, the guys from Reverie are also talking negative numbers. For example here's a comparison between a 997 GT3 RS vs Reverie modified GT3 RS vs GT3 Cup racing car
http://www.reverie.ltd.uk/Downloads/ReveriePorscheData.pdf
1) I don't understand why the stock values of the GT3 are so small > at 160kmh, the front Df is 0.345kg and rear is 2.446kg (only this from that large OEm GT3 wing ???). Reverie gets it to a maximum of 10.272kg front and 13.695kg rear wich is much more but still to little as compared to what I've added into my calculation. The GT3 cup has -18.587 front (lift !!!) and 72.145kg rear. It's a little confusing why Porsche goes with small Df front and much bigger rear while Reverie gets them close to each other.
2) Also confusing why the CUP racing car has lift on front !
3) Another weird stuff would be why between the 2 Reverie versions with different riding height, the higher car has more downforce !? I thought it should be otherwise !
PS : Where do they measure the riding height ?
-
1. Have a look at some former SportAuto magazines.
In their 'SuperTests' they use have the cars in a wind tunnel.
I'm sure Porsche tries to get a good balance and low drag for
higher maximum speed.
2. Also balance. Cup cars have high camber for less understeer
in narrow corner. This may give dangerous high speed oversteer
if you don't have lots of rear Downforce.
3. If you have very flat underbottom (which even a stock GT3 has)
some amount of travelling air is needed for maximum Df .
997 II GT3:
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg3.sportauto-online.de%2FPorsche-911-GT3-fotoshowImage-2add91-245984.jpg&hash=60f19d00c0e7055512ffb6cefeda5c46abb896e3)
Während der Vorgänger mit einer ausgewogenen Balance auf neutraler Nullebene vorstellig wurde, also bar jeglichen Auf- beziehungsweise Abtriebs, wird dessen Nachfolger nunmehr mit 152 Newton Abtrieb an der Vorderachse und gar 186 Newton Abtrieb an der Hinterachse bedacht.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg4.sportauto-online.de%2FPorsche-911-GT3-fotoshowImage-c3b9af18-245985.jpg&hash=3b1ccd7645b9cd69d60851b72b6de6effbb79116)
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http://www.sportauto-online.de/bilder/porsche-911-gt3-im-supertest-neuer-strassensportler-setzt-bestmarke-1332080.html?fotoshow_item=15#fotoshow_item=16
2006 GT3:
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportauto-online.de%2Fsupertest%2Fporsche-911-gt3-auf-der-rennstrecke-nuerburgring-hockenheim-1040952.html%3Cbr+%2F%3E%3Cbr+%2F%3E%5Bimg%5Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fimg4.sportauto-online.de%2Fimage-fotoshowImage-348acdd3-220043.jpg&hash=53896c5b24ec6a8bd96cc56584886bebc2c5dc21)
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2007 comparison GT3 vs GT3 RS:
http://www.sportauto-online.de/supertest/datenanalyse-porsche-911-gt3-gt3-rs-im-supertest-besser-denn-je-der-neue-porsche-gt3-1345012.html
2007 GT3 RS:
http://www.sportauto-online.de/bilder/porsche-911-gt3-rs-auf-der-nordschleife-und-dem-hockenheimring-1041046.html?fotoshow_item=10#fotoshow_item=11
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Rear Df of 100 N > 10 kg.
2011 GT3 RS:
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportauto-online.de%2Fsupertest%2Fporsche-911-gt3-rs-im-test-leichter-staerker-besser-nordschleife-1861957.html%3Cbr+%2F%3E%3Cbr+%2F%3E%5Bimg%5Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fimg1.sportauto-online.de%2FPorsche-911-GT3-RS-Windkanal-fotoshowImage-807fbbf8-352266.jpg&hash=c9d952a99469d8bb33d9a90bc3484538f389ede4)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg3.sportauto-online.de%2FPorsche-911-GT3-RS-Windkanal-fotoshowImage-f7cc9e3c-352267.jpg&hash=5bb7e75394de3492d691147e5bc3bfe3209dbc81)
Während der Mercedes-Windkanal an der Vorderachse bei 200 km/h noch etwa denselben Abtrieb wie beim GT3 ausweist (11 Kilogramm), fällt er an der Hinterachse deutlich höher aus: Dank des vom RSR abgeguckten Heckflügels wird sie mit 49 Kilogramm beaufschlagt (GT3: 19 kg). Das durch das verstellbare Karbonteil generierte, leichte Aufnickmoment nimmt der auch stärker ausgeprägteren Frontlippe des RS folglich etwas die Wirkung.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg2.sportauto-online.de%2FPorsche-911-GT3-RS-Windkanal-fotoshowImage-1e1c9fc-352268.jpg&hash=6abf15282c294f5134c4b2a2eab5052cc212c0ed)
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A 911 GT3 is a different thing than a Golf though. Completly different weight balance,
different suspension, much lower center of gravity and more ower though. Hope this
just helps for a better understanding.
-
Yes Bruce, I've found a thread on Vagoc with much more tests done by these guys on many cars, among them some FWD like Cooper S or Focus RS wich varied a lot between each other also. Of course a Golf would be much more different than a 911 GT3 but perhaps I should talk to Simon McBeath at ''the wing shp'' . Here's what they say on their website :
Wing selection
If you require advice selecting the correct wing configuration(s) for your competition car, it will help us if you can tell us the following;
what type of events you compete in
what type of car you drive (saloon, sports racer, single seater etc). If you happen to have a reliable figure for the drag coefficient, that would be very useful! A photograph would help if you don’t have a Cd figure
what the car’s frontal area is (height and width plus a photo will just about do, but see the graphics below right for how to estimate it).
what your car’s power output at the driven wheels is (a flywheel figure will do - it is possible to estimate the at-the-wheels figure from this)
what the highest and lowest maximum speeds are at any venues you visit, and an idea of the cornering speed range encountered
what relevant regulations are applicable relating to the dimensions and location of wings and other aero devices
what deficiencies you are endeavouring to overcome
We then recommend the configuration best suited to your application. Fine tuning in testing and events will, however, be necessary to get a good balance.
Based on the data sent by me, he can make a profile in CAD/CFD for my car and recommend a proper downforce balance front to rear !
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Weight deducted until now :
- subwoofer + enclosure > 34.5Kg
- spare wheel + tools > 17.5Kg
- MDF board over the amps > 8.2Kg
- Rear seats > 27.5Kg
- Front reinforcing bar > 1.8Kg
- S3 hubs > 3Kg
- Braking system > 12Kg
- 18'' wheels > 2Kg
- Recaro seats > 18Kg
- Lower rear bench > 5Kg
- Sinfoni amplifiers > 25Kg
- Rear seatbelts > 2Kg
- Odyssey ER40 battery > 15Kg
TOTAL until now : 171.5Kg
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg836.imageshack.us%2Fimg836%2F1822%2Fodyssey1a.jpg&hash=1ab9bd944d923cb035257a7c8d05df95b345da9b) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/836/odyssey1a.jpg/)
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The VwRacing air-dam is here. Its weight including the mounting hardware is about 2Kg and I hope it will bring at least 10Kg of downforce on front axle !From the OEm front spoiler, this add-on lowers the car by 13cm on the edges(near the front wheels), 10.5cm on the front corners under the fog grills and 7.5cm on the middle. I will soon measure the OEm add-on to see the difference ! It is made out of very strong plastic (2mm) and reinforced on the middle section (5mm) !
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg16.imageshack.us%2Fimg16%2F9620%2Fvwracingairdam2.jpg&hash=108ae89a7dff85f983fd01df8c1ae36a449f971a) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/16/vwracingairdam2.jpg/)
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:happy2: :happy2: :happy2:
Guess that's more than enough DF on front.
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Do you think it will bring some 10Kgs of downforce Bruce ? Also, I'm also hoping in a reduction of drag because the shape of the air-dam seems to deflect air from the front wheels :smiley:
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Hard to say. Of course it WILL give some downforce, at least you're +-0 currently.
Keep in mind you run wider wheels as well and compare the stock Locus :wink: RS to the Raeder RS above.
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Yes, the wheels are about 245 in real size as compared to 225 for OEM. It's wider than OEM but not as large as on that Focus (265-275). The car is also lowered as compared to OEM and today I've measured the OEM spoiler also :
Corner (near wheel) >
VwRacing > 13cm
OEM > 9.5cm
Under the fog grill >
VwRacing > 10.5cm
OEm > 7.5cm
Middle section >
VwRacing > 7.5cm
OEM > 1.5cm
PS : Note that my OEM spoiler didn't have the under-lip on it anymore so the real difference on the middle isn't that big. We can safely say this air-dam is 3-4cm lower than OEM all around !
-
Finally pulled up some outsid movies from my Drift HD170 camera. The music was added because because I had to supress the wind noise. Enjoy !
-
Yesterday I was at the service from 9am to 2am :) I succeeded installing the wing, longer under-engine shield, new water radiator (the old one had a serious crack in it and may have been the cause of my overheating problems on track), temp sensor, brake pads and wrapped the ABS and brake lines in heat protective material. During the radiator change I've also noticed the throttle pipe was broken so I've ordered a new one (this might have been the cause for my unstable idle in the pst 2 years). Some conclusions for the Kerscher wings:
- they are 2.5Kg lighter than OEm ones
- they do fit very well
- the addition to the arch liners imply cutting a part of the OEm liners(6-9cm on most of their length). The new additions will be about 5cm higher than OEm wich should help with rub
- With the OEM wings, the 235/35/19 (on 8.5'' rim) tire was 9mm out of the wing, with the new wings it's 8mm inside them. Conclusion > the new wings are 9+8 = 17mm wider than OEM (not really 30mm as they say)
- As an addition to the 17mm is the fact that, the addition to the liners is 5cm higher than OEM wich is equivalent to another 5mm added to the 17 or the possibility of lowering the car another 2-3cm
- The rubber that surrounds the windshield meets the fender for a few cms. Because of the thicker fiberglass of the new wings, the small guide found on the rubber needs to be cut, otherwise the wing won't align to the fender (you can see circles on the pics)
- On the wing there's a guide that holds the bumper to it. If this one isn't installed perfectly, the bumper may not align well to the fender (this might have happened to rex on one side)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg337.imageshack.us%2Fimg337%2F8215%2Fkerscher21.jpg&hash=9db978d60be6b229ad3e8be9489946984543eb3b) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/337/kerscher21.jpg/)
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Excellent shots Fuscobal, and are looking forward to see if the heat refective tape makes a difference, you have put it on due to you removing the dust shields right? :smiley:
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Well done and still beautiful brakes !!
Do you have a pic with the car in total?
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The heat shields don't fit with the Ap brakes so I had to protect the lines from heat somehow. Bruce, no pic yet for 2 reasons :
1) I'm waiting to install the air-dam also
2) The car was dirty as hell :)
I will make some nice pics in 7-10 days when I'll install the air-dam and other bits (waiting for the new throttle pipe now). I've ordered a new OEM one because it's cheap but maybe I'll go for a BSH or Neuspeed in the future as the OEm plastic one may be failing because of the high pressure that it sees as compared to an OEM GTI !
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I can asure you that BSH throttle pipe holds up to 500+ hp :D
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Some pics made today with the new track wheels, Kerscher wings and VwR air-dam !
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg856.imageshack.us%2Fimg856%2F7738%2Fkerschervwr1.jpg&hash=bd25f8794c9605fdee48234a35f81790a8051450) (http://"http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/856/kerschervwr1.jpg/")
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I like it my friend! No so low as I would like but I know you have good reasons (I dropped the car 5-8mm today so I should be lower. We have to put them side by side at Hungaroring).
Sunny weather, ha? I changed setup from winter to summer and just after I finished a heavy snowfall came in : :grin:. So I got to test the summer tires in 1 inch of snow :grin:. We might have problems with the summer setup next weekend if the weather is not warming up.
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Looks very good Fuscoball, i'll try and mimic the shots for some comparison between yours and my Seibon and TT hubs :wink:
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Looks like tons of grip !!
:happy2:
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Thanks guys. Had to raise the front by about 5mm because It was touching the ramp of my garage very slowly. As you can see, even with the wide fenders, the tires are very close. Hopefully I will have no rubbing issues at both front or rear ! What I also don't like, is the fact that the look around the new fenders seems somehow artificial with the sudden widening of the fenders, while the 2 extremes draw back to meet the bumper and front door (unlike an RS4 for ex wich has wide fenders but also wider front bumper or skirts wich completely cover the wheels for better aesthetics and lower drag. I'm afraid I'll have a lot of drag and lift from the front wheels wich will negate the benefit of the air-dam !
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Is there any way to widen the bumper?
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Yes, with custom work, the bumper and VwR air-dam can be widened by 5-7cm while still matching the line of the fenders !
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Back from the Hungaroring track-day wich unfortunately didn't go too well for me. On the way to Budapest, the o-ring of my freshly installed USP motorsports clutch line (octomber last year) gave up so I lost the pressure and my clutch pedal remained down. For the moment I installed another o-ring (similar but not identical) that I found in the closest town to where my car remained on the side of the road. At the track, a friend of mine had a brand new USP clutch line with him so I replaced mine with his in order not to take any chance with the improvised o-ring. Happy that I solved the problem, I went to the track and in the 1st session the OEM plastic T piece on the coolant path broke so I lost all the cooland and until I got out of the track the water pump also ceased and the main engine gasket went so I lost the engine compression. I was really pissed of as a stupid 10Euro plastic piece made me take the car on a platform from Budapest to Bucharest and replace other more expensive parts. I don't know why that piece broke (the plastic got too old since the car has 6 years or it was due to the high temperatures and the boiling water from the last Hungaroring). I wonder if the Forge water kit > http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0017&product=FMKC010 would also replace the plastic part or use it. This is the piece that broke > the big circle is the entire piece and the small circle is where it broke !
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I'm sorry to hear of your woes. Hopefully it hasn't done other damage and you'll get it back on the street soon Fuscobal :smiley:
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The turbocharger is ok but there are some marks on the cylinder's walls wich imply overheating and pistons rubbing against the walls. Will take out the pistons tomorrow and see if they also need replacement (hopefully not). If I'm lucky I'll just get away with the piston rings, head gasket and other small gaskets !
Following the last unpleasant event, I decided to take the car on a ramp from now and since I'm not driving it on the streets anymore, I removed my entire audio system (including cables) and saved another 33Kg (didn't remove de front door cards wich should bring another 15-20Kg). The count is now 1503-33 = 1470Kg including me and a full tank of gas !
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You should consider a Cupra engine instead of rebuilding your AXX Fuscobal :happy2:
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Good luck with the engine, Fuscobal! :happy2:
Still 1470 kg without audio system? I hope to stay below 1400 kg including driver and full tank.
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I don't know why is this car so heavy. With the door cards removed I will get to 1450kg wich is still more than what I've seen around. At this point I don't know what else to take out of the car without compromising too much ? (still want the aircon and electric windows)
PS : Why a Cupra engine Danish ?...the difference should be only in the pistons !
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I don't know why is this car so heavy. With the door cards removed I will get to 1450kg wich is still more than what I've seen around. At this point I don't know what else to take out of the car without compromising too much ? (still want the aircon and electric windows)
PS : Why a Cupra engine Danish ?...the difference should be only in the pistons !
The Cupra benefits from a better flowing head, the S3 cams, lower compression and stronger rods, i went from the low curve to the higher one by moving to the cupra engine, and i must say it's the best thing i've done (the last year :grin: )
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww160%2Fjakethemoss%2Frevo6.jpg&hash=14ab1d0614be6c2ff37d9920742b3278440f7b5b)
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Danish, I've already got forged rods and S3 cams. The lower compression comes from the pistons and if mine are damaged I might as well order forged ones since they cost the same as new OEM ones. What do you mean by better flowing head ?
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I don't know if the S3/Cupra head has larger ports (don't believe this),
but it has a different (more heat resistant) alloy though.
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In the unhappy case of finding marks on the pistons, I will have to change them. As the OEM ones cost about the same as Je pistons, I'm thinking of upgrading them. My OEM compression is 10.5 (highest of all, being my AXX was the first TFSI engine code). Je has CR of 8.5:1, 9.5:1 and 10.25:1 with bore 82.5(OEM), 83 and 83.5. I will not go with 8.5 but wouldn't know what to choose between 9.5 and 10.25 (they also make custom so I'd go a little bit lower but not too low). Also, in terms of bore, should I go 83 just to be sure ? (even if the actual diameter is still closer to 82.5). How does lowering the compression affect everything on this engine ? (updated REVO software ?, engine temps....)
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the comp. of the cupra 9,8:1 gives more headroom for boost. so i would say the 9,5:1 je pistons would suit your needs Fuscobal :happy2:
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I have 9.5:1
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I run 9.5:1 JE. Stevie.
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In the unhappy case of finding marks on the pistons, I will have to change them. As the OEM ones cost about the same as Je pistons, I'm thinking of upgrading them. My OEM compression is 10.5 (highest of all, being my AXX was the first TFSI engine code). Je has CR of 8.5:1, 9.5:1 and 10.25:1 with bore 82.5(OEM), 83 and 83.5. I will not go with 8.5 but wouldn't know what to choose between 9.5 and 10.25 (they also make custom so I'd go a little bit lower but not too low). Also, in terms of bore, should I go 83 just to be sure ? (even if the actual diameter is still closer to 82.5). How does lowering the compression affect everything on this engine ? (updated REVO software ?, engine temps....)
Simply go for 9.5:1 !!
Reducing CR will compromise torque at lower revs and overall efficiency,
but you'll get increased safety and engine life and you can also run higher
boost pressueres.
Going for the larger 83 mm bore will require maching to your crank case.
If maching is already necessary I'd go for 83.5 , if not stay with 82.5 mm.
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Ok guy, 9.5:1 will be if it's the case (hopefully not). However, I have yet to see if I need extra bore on the cylinders. I'll let you know once the engine is opened up !
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2 option arise at this point :
1) Use TEFF's OEM pistons wich have low mileage but a CR of 9.8:1 wich will probably require new software (I will have to talk to Revo about this). Also, I've measured the cylinders and they seem closer to 82 than 82.5 !?!? Why is that ? However, I will have to sand off the whiteish vertical marks on them left by the pistons wich expanded. Now, those marks cannot be felt while passing with the thinger but at the upper side of the cylinders, the last 5mm or so have marks that can be felt. Theoretically those doesn't matter as the piston rings don't reach that area (they are lower, only the top of the piston reaches that area but is not in contact with it). Tis is why I don't know if to stay with 82.5 or go to 83. I will not go to 83.5 because I want to keep room for another bore in the future if another disaster like this one occurs again !
2) JE Pistons with 10.5:1 & 83mm (as advised by Revo & IE) + new IE rods (The IE rods I have now work with OEM pistons only !) + new Calico bearings. This option is much more expensive but is safer and doesn't require modifying the software. Keep in mind I don't need the extra strength of forged pistons since I will even lower the software to 340-350HP and 450NM for the next track days. I will lower the boost and fuel (richer mixture to cool things down) to achieve that. The setting used until now was 9-7-9 wich may seem high for most but it's what worked for me with close to no CF (timing retard). The f9 setting is the leanest and hottest of all so I may try 7-7-7 or even 7-7-5 (can't say for sure until I make some logs) !
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(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg163.imageshack.us%2Fimg163%2F1559%2Fkerscher20.jpg&hash=eb173caf09ca73200fc0d22cee3b006cde9b180b) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/163/kerscher20.jpg/)
....That must be a very tidy modification of the OEM arch liner?
Your car has really shaped up well - One of my favourite black GTI's :notworthy:
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awesome looking car mate :D love the interior :D
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Thanks guys...hopefully the car will soon be rollin' again. The engine block has been honed to 83 and will get Je Pistons + IE rods & Calico bearings !
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Fuscobal - are you still selling your RS-GT's?
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Have been sold to a fellow russian guy about 1 month ago :) !
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That interior is so clean. Love the custom doorcards.
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Yes, they are very nice indeed but will have to go to stock soon so they will be for sale for those interested in some serious car audio performance ! These may be the most beautiful Golf 5 door cards ever made ! :happy2:
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Thats always good to know but if im honest audio upgrades are at the bottem of my list. Im sure they will go to a good home. But I would like to know where you got them done and how much it cost?
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A friend of mine who is the best in our country made them (he even makes car audio for guys from other countries). The total cost was about 1200 Euros without the speakers !
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The same guy who made my whole interior
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Fuscobal since you are going back to stock; are you considering selling the car?
:sad1:
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Jake, i'm 100% sure that he is not selling the car. He is just transforming it into a dedicated track weapon :D
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I removed the audio system to loose some weight and because I didn't listen to it anyway since the car began to be used only for track days after the little Polo GTI arrived. 2 years ago, my car had about 1680Kg with me inside and a full tank of gas. Now, it will have about 1450Kg wich is a huge 230kg of weight loss !
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Time for some updates. The car is at my mechanic since the last track day (5 months ago) and still not working. Afterresurfacing the engine block and installing the JE pistons & IE rods (10.5:1 & 83mm bore) everything seemed fine. All water plastic pipes were replaced with new OEM ones and the rubber with the Forge silicone kit. Unfortunately, Forge only replaced the upper lines (the ones that can be seen) like they are for cosmetic purposes, not better performance. For the lower ones I had to use new OEM ones. I've also replaced all gaskets and the important bolts. As for the gearbox that was having a 4-5mm play on the input shaft, we added 2 spacers and the play was gone. After all was put back together, the gearbox was making a terrible noise so we had to open it up again. We found that the new input shaft bearing that was just installed was defective from the factory and we also removed one spacer because the position of the pinions was changed. The gearbox was put back onthe car and the noise dissapeared and it seemed to change fine under normal driving. However, strange noises on the engine this time, made us open the engine again. We found out that the cylinder head was also deformed and the valves were leaking on 3 cylinders. I've sent the cylinder head for resurfacing, replacing the guides and reworking the seats. The cylinder head is ready now and will be put on the car next week. Hopefully it will all be fine this time. I have some worries regarding the valve seats and guides. Since new guides cannot be ordered separately from the cylinder head (wich would cost a fortune), the guy that took care of the cylinder head had to use guides from another VAG car. Don't know what car and if Vw uses the same alloy for guides on 60HP cars as well as on 200HP cars. I don't know how well the new guides will take the heat ! He said all VW guides fail in time, no matter the power of the car but I'm not sure if it's like this. Anyone knows what influences guides failure on these cars most ? (by failure I don't mean they break but the develop play so they won't guide the valves well)
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Time for some updates. Took the car from my mechanic abouth 1 month ago and it's working fine, except for the same rough idle who seems to never go away. There's some sort of a cyclic noise at idle and don't know why but while on the road the car behaves normally. Didn't have the change to WOT it yet but will do it after installing the wing....wich reminds me of the second update :)
The custom Reverie wing came and it's very well manufactured. After talking to Reverie guys, they advised me to go for the smaller 150mm profile instead of the 225mm one. They said it should be enough for a FWD car and that a larger one would ruin the balance of the car unless I also have a large splitter in front. The wing was made with a span of 1300mm and a 515mm distance between the drop tabs. After speaking to the guy designing the mounts, he said we can't use the car's hinges of the trunk lid so I've distanced the tabs 50mm from the hinges on each side. Didn't weigh the wing yet but it seems to be about 7-800grams only !!!
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimageshack.us%2Fa%2Fimg33%2F5043%2Freverie8.jpg&hash=6abdd0f4cbc6549200cf8562b231ae8f6aa59f8e) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/33/reverie8.jpg/)
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By interpolating between 1245 si 1400mm, at an AOA of 10deg, we get about 43kg@100mph. From an older post over here, the wind tunnel says the OEM GTI has -2kg on front si -37kg on rear @ 200kmh. Those values mean the car has lift at high speeds(but then again most street car have lift). Knowing I'm lowered about 1'' and I have the VWR front air-dam, the real values on my car might be a little better, say +5kg on front and -30kg on rear. In order to compare the downforce brought by the wing and the values we have for the OEM car, we need to calculate the wing's value @ 200kmh. 43kg*(200kmh2/160kmh^2)^ = 67kg . So, at 200kmh, the car should have about 0 to 5kg of downforce on front and 30-35kg on rear (67-30 = 37 but I'm considering less because the wing's data has been acquired under freestream and not disturbed air like on the car) !
PS : For those wanting to compare the downforce level of a track-prepped street car and an F1 car, at 200kmh I would have about 1450kg and 40kg of downforce (2.8% of the car's mass) and a formula 1 car would have about 700kg and 1400kg of downforce (200% of the car's mass !!!). I think it's easy to understand how an F1 car can generate such tremendous downforce levels, knowing that the downforce does not generate inertia !
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That rear wing is very, very sexy :happy2:.
I wish I had no engine problems so that one of these would be in my garage right now...
I am curios to see how you make the mounting points.
Keep up the good work!
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:happy2: :happy2: :happy2:
Agree with your calculations and estimations.
Hope it works well and the engine does too.
:drinking:
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Will come back with pics once everything is ready ! As for the engine I'll have to do another check to see what's with the rough idle. Don't want to risk anything after what happened to me on Hungaroring. BTW, it seems the Evoms heat shield was touching the plastic water T-piece that broke so I had to cut a little bit from the shield to clear the pipe !
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Because I wasn't inspired to measure the distances and diameters of the holes on the drop tabs of the wings, I had to approximate them by measuring on the computer's screen and suipposing the 3 small holes have 6mm in diameter. At first I did not understand how can the 3 inclined holes pass through the same point on the mount tabs while rotating the wing around the elongated hole. After making a quick drawing in Acad, I understood that if you rotate and translate the wing around the elongated hole, it is actually possible >
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From the pic it can be seen that it's possible for 2 fixed points found at a distance X one from each other on the mount tab that I will manufacture to be on every one of the 3 inclined holes if the axxis between them will rotate and translate at the same time (the 3 values are different because of the way I've measured the distances on the computer's screen instead of on the wing itself). By measuring the angles between them, one can see that between the min and max position there's about 5 deg. At first, I told the guy to install the wing in such a manner that the min position is 0 deg for street driving and no drag. However, after drawing, I realised that a min of 0 would mean a max of 5deg wich is too little. Thus, I will establish the min position at 4-5deg so that the max can be 9deg. (the drag and absorbed power for this wing is not something too scary > about 3kg and 2HP)
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the drag and absorbed power for this wing is not something too scary > about 3kg and 2HP
Indeed nothing to worry about.
When you do the invest in such a wing the main point is you get the downforce to want on track. :wink:
Increasing fuel consumption by 0.1 or 0.2 l per 100 km - :fighting:
Nevertheless in turbulent air things are quite complex. Promises and estimations are hard to make.
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Any news already?
I'm currently about to read this book - maybe it's somthing for you as well:
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/automotive-reference/engineering-and-motorsports/race-car-aerodynamics.html
You might also get some inspiration from in this:
http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,59674.msg669054.html#msg669054
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Sent the car to have the wing mounted in nov but didn't hurry too much because I don't use the car during winter. The guys first removed the OEM plastic add-on of the trunk lid (the add on can only be found on GTI, not on the regular Golf 5) and it weighed in at 2.2Kg. Knowing the wing is only 0.95Kg at wich the aluminium mounts will be added, I'd say at the end I might end up with the same weight as before. Some pics with my newest calculations :
1) Cross-sectional area of the wing + drop tab > made this to find out the relationship (angles) between the holes on the tab and the median line of the wing profile in order to know how I need to establish the holes on the mounts in oredfer to get the desired angle
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2) First option with the 2 holes parralel to the ground wich ensure a setting of the wing relative to the airflow of 4.9 to 10.2deg at max position
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3) Second option with the rear hole 3mm higher than the fron hole ensures another 2 deg, so 6.9 to 12.2deg (at more than 14deg stall occures so I should stay here for best downforce/drag compromise)
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Any news already?
I'm currently about to read this book - maybe it's somthing for you as well:
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/automotive-reference/engineering-and-motorsports/race-car-aerodynamics.html
You might also get some inspiration from in this:
http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,59674.msg669054.html#msg669054
I am reading this one > http://www.amazon.co.uk/Competition-Car-Aerodynamics-2nd-Edition/dp/0857330071/ref=dp_ob_image_bk/280-1641191-4755738 made by the same guy that designed my wing !
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Most probably it will be my next one. :happy2: It'd be my third about aerodynamics.
This my very first:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aerodynamik-Automobils-Str%C3%B6mungsmechanik-W%C3%A4rmetechnik-Fahrdynamik/dp/3528039590/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1358044300&sr=1-3
Reading more than 1000 pages of true academic stuff has been a hard task two years ago. :stupid:
But next I have to read this one (already have it here, but didn't have the time already):
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Competition-Car-Suspension-Practical-Handbook/dp/1844253287/ref=pd_sim_b_1
Still love these two, they have been easy to read:
http://www.amazon.de/Fahrdynamik-Perfektion-Der-optimalen-Fahrwerk-Setup/dp/3613032546/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1351427772&sr=8-1
http://www.autocourse.com/products/driving-on-the-edge/
Much more practical !!
Nice to see you do some brain work before installation of the wing. :happy2: :happy2: :happy2:
2 kg of the crappy stock spoiler is lots for a piece of plastic without real benefit.
Removing it isn't any loss. I even bet it increases both lift + drag compared to
standard Golfs. :fighting:
You're right, 5° to 12° seem very practical and you need to avoid stall safely.
BTW, you're going to have the first GTI with true downforce on this forum. :wink:
:drinking:
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love everything about car, really nice
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^^^^
Although it's not what I plan for my own GTI, all this info discussed and linked in this thread is extremely interesting :happy2:
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Thanks guys, I'm trying my best to do some brain work before fitting parts to my car for track use. Knowing it is now a track-only car it will get even more hardcore but the limit will be my budget. Maybe after the wing I'll replace the bonnet with a custom carbon one wich is half the weight and will have the 2 large vents on the front that Scirocco cup has. Some other aerodynamic bits will follow (lower side-skirts and a little rear diffuser) but will probably never afford a sequential gearbox to solve my shifting problems (I'm probably loosing 2-3 secs/lap at Hring with my slow shifting). Well, we'll see...
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I can't remember fuscobal, have you tried a WOT box. It improved my shifts no end with the Sachs SMF solution i have atm.
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Nope, tried one om a 500HP S3 with the same clutch and it was still not smooth enough, although a little better than mine !
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Some pics made during the manufacturing of the metal sheet former and then the final aluminium legs. From here, the legs are to be weled to the car and then some rounding of the edges and painting !
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Great work as always Fuscobal :notworthy:
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promising !!
:happy2:
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Saaaaay...what need I do for my car to shift gears like this one > [ Invalid YouTube link ]! ? :jumping:
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This http://eng.kaps-transmissions.com/news-kaps-2011.html
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Sounds good. Wonder what the price would be and if they also have an aftermarket shifter or it can be used with oem one ? A front-rear only shifter would be nice :)
BTCC and many others seem to use Xtrc 1046 wich is limited to 450NM (a little under my max output) > http://www.xtrac.com/sectors/motorsport/touring-car
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I'd consider a stock DQ250 or DQ500 DSG.
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With a SH one it will probably be quite cheap but will also need new engine/gearbox software and other possible bits. I was thinking maybe that SQS shifter coupled to the OEM gearbox I have now will help me change gears faster by being front-to-back like on sequential gearboxes or DSG !
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Question is, why you have these issues? Is it the gearbox itself or just the parts between shifter
and gearbox?
The latter ones are easily to replace and there are also some uprated parts like solid bushings.
BTW, there are also Eos FWD gearboxes for the VR6 with much shorter gear ratios. Unfortunately
these have a different casing due to the different mounting angle of the 3.2 VR6. The gear parts
should fit though.
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I have the solid bushings wich made shifting more precise (les wooblier than before) but still hard to get in a gear fast. Removed the flow restrictor, installed the USP stainless clutch line (not only this one didn't bring any benefit but the rubber gasket broke and my pedal went to the floor on my way to Hungaroring, one day before the other event that almost destroyed the engine), replaced the clutch bearing, went through 2 sets of Sachs racing clutches (changed the first under warranty for exactly the same reason). While my car was under engine repairing, I've also installed a spacer in the gearbox, where the input shaft sits but I'm yet to see if it cured the problem !
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:sad1:
Seems it's the gearbox or you're an extremely quick shifting guy. :grin:
I "only" had 4th gear issues now and then when the car has been new. These went
with time. I have to admit I'm not fastest shifting man, too.
Remember you don't loose that much (lap) time. The car still moves when you kick the
clutch. It just decerates 1 or 2 km/h when you accelerate. It even does nothing when
downshifting while braking.
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Don't need for fast downshifting, you have plenty of time there but I'd certainly like faster changes on acceleration areas. I'd say it mattrs pretty much. On the Hungaroring straight (700m) while going side by side with a 911 Carrera 4S I was pulling on him during acceleration but loosing some of the advantage during the 2 gearchanges (3 to 4 and then 5). I'd say I was loosing about 5-7m only there. Probably on the entire track it would be like 20-25m wich at a medium speed of 30-35m/s would mean close to 1 sec ! However, I will stop talkin about gearchanges until I solve my cooling problems first :smiley: What do you say about this plan :
1) Sell the S3 FMIC and Forge Twintercooler and replace them with a single one in the stock location (Wagner, THS...). What do you know to be the best here and will it have the same performance as the 2 I have know ?
2) Install the OEM water radiator in the OEM location
3) Install the INA Engineering Mocal oil cooler where the Twintercooler was (it's much smaller than the twintercooler so I guess it shouldn't block the airflow to the radiators too much)
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Decided to drill 2 holes on the legs for the 3 existing ones on the droptabs. Thus, I will have 6 settings instead of 3. The plastic add-on that comes with the GTI and was removed to fix the aluminium legs had 2.2kg !!! . The wings has 0.95kg and the legs about 0.3kg each. It so seems the wing+legs will have about 1.6kg wich is less than what I had before...sounds pretty good to me :)
PS : Legs are now ready for painting along with the trunk lid...in about 1 week we should be able to see the final result !
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Thanks, will have to take outsome of the plastic trims inside though (pillars and roof). Will also add a roll cage and belts when possible !
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Finally done with the wing. All in all the new wing + monts + steel reinforcing of the trunk lid has about the same weight as the OEM plastic add-on to the trunk lid. The setting on the pics below has about 12-14 AOA (relative to the air direction wich already makes about 3.7deg to the horisontal plane). This is about the max downforce setting with this wing. Any more than this and stall occurs. Relative to the end of the lid it is installed 15-16cm away on the horisontal axis in the middle, 18-20cm on the horisontal axis on the sides and 9cm away on the vertical axis.
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Thanks for sharing this !! :happy2:
:congrats: :congrats: :congrats: :congrats:
This wing may even work better than most of pro racing cars that are limited in their
position by regulations.
The setting on the pics below has about 12-14 AOA (relative to the air direction wich
already makes about 3.7deg to the horisontal plane). This is about the max downforce
setting with this wing. Any more than this and stall occurs.
Max possible angle of attack is hard to plan out in advance. There are some options
for testing you will have read from. Wool strings on the wing, oil or shower gel traces,
zip ties on the rear struts and so on. Poor man's wind channel procedure.
:wink:
ps:
Did you disable the ''thank you'' button? :laugh:
pps:
Hope it's ok for you, I posted the pictures here:
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3540639#post3540639
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Great looking wing, Fuscobal, we'll have to wait in anticipation on your review after the first track days :congrats:
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It's very good you posted the pics there Bruce, I would have done it anyway today (was very tired and went to sleep yesterday). Didn't do anything with the "thank you" button :confused:
As for the next Hring track day that's on 30th of mars I don't know if the car will be ready. The radiator will arrive tomorrow and will install it in no time but I really want to sort out that idle and besides another problem appeared at my first WOT since I redone the engine and that's the clutch slipped wich is really strange as this clutch should be very powerful and has only like 2000 miles driven hard on it. I hope it's just disc contamination and will open the gearbox to check it !
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Some measurements made today :
- Forge twintercooler > 5.2kg for the core and about 1kg for each of the 2 hoses (7.2kg all together)
- THS > 11.9kg for the core and about 0.5kg for each of the 2 hoses (12.9kg all together)
- S3 FMIC > 7.6kg (S3+Forge = 14.8kg)
- Hot climate radiator + plastic guide > 1.1kg (about 2 to 2.5kg with all the extra hoses needed for the install)
- Air-con compressor + hose > 6.3kg
- Air-con radiator > 3.1kg
- Other air-con hoses + fluids > aprox. 3kg
All in all I'm cutting about 12.5kg by letting go the air-con system and also gain (hopefully) better cooling for the main water radiator and the intercooler. As for the radiators/intercoolers, by replacing the S3+Forge with THS I will gain about 2kg wich I will then lose again with the install of the hot weather water radiator ! However, had to do it because the aditional water radiators sits very tight against the twintercooler's hose wich can cause problems under high vibrations on the track !
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Some measurements made today :
- Forge twintercooler > 5.2kg for the core and about 1kg for each of the 2 hoses (7.2kg all together)
- THS > 11.9kg for the core and about 0.5kg for each of the 2 hoses (12.9kg all together)
- S3 FMIC > 7.6kg (S3+Forge = 14.8kg)
- Hot climate radiator + plastic guide > 1.1kg (about 2 to 2.5kg with all the extra hoses needed for the install)
- Air-con compressor + hose > 6.3kg
- Air-con radiator > 3.1kg
- Other air-con hoses + fluids > aprox. 3kg
All in all I'm cutting about 12.5kg by letting go the air-con system and also gain (hopefully) better cooling for the main water radiator and the intercooler. As for the radiators/intercoolers, by replacing the S3+Forge with THS I will gain about 2kg wich I will then lose again with the install of the hot weather water radiator ! However, had to do it because the aditional water radiators sits very tight against the twintercooler's hose wich can cause problems under high vibrations on the track !
I'm very pleased with the THS IC currently fitted to my car, and would rate it above the S3+Forge TC solution :happy2:
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Just came back from my mechanic and the car is 99% ready. Filled the coolant tank with water for the moment and started the engine wich seems to work well this time (no more oscillations for now). Installed the THS cooler with a custom pipe between the turbo and the THS and also the additional hot weather radiator. Since we were missing some clamps I couldn't take the car out ! Tomorrow we will have the clamps, mount the front bumper and CAI and that's it. I've also replaced the flexible joint of the Milltek downpipe wich was leaking and we made a straight stainless connector between the upper water hoses to replace the plastic T wich was no longer needed ! Tomorrow everything will be done and there is no need for burn in cause we didn't touch the engine block this time. However, only after some logs and gearbox monitoring I will be able to say if the car will go to the next Hungaroring wich is next saturday !
PS : Seems I didn't mention it but I've entirely replaced the cylinder head with one that had low mileage and wasn't machined like mine (the machining on mine was of low quality so the valves didn't seal well on the seats wich might also have caused those idle oscillations)
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Hope the engine is reliable and running fine. :wink:
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Looks good Fuscobal, sorry to hear about the head, are you still having the S3 cam then? :smiley:
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Yes I do...I took only the S3 cams from my head and installed them into the new one !
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Bet this goes well
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Engine's running perfect, all idle problems disappeared but the clutch is still slipping. It seems the disc has been compromised. Have had this clutch for about 25-30k and need to change the disc as my previous mechanic somehow poured oil on it and it. I'd try to resurface it but don't know if by making the disc thinner won't take some of the pressure plate's force :( My mechanic says it's possible for the pressure plate to also have problems since by slipping the clutch at high speeds (even if it only happened several times) the pressure plate surface may have weakened and lost some of the force (grip level) !
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Engine's running perfect, all idle problems disappeared but the clutch is still slipping. It seems the disc has been compromised. Have had this clutch for about 25-30k and need to change the disc as my previous mechanic somehow poured oil on it and it. I'd try to resurface it but don't know if by making the disc thinner won't take some of the pressure plate's force :( My mechanic says it's possible for the pressure plate to also have problems since by slipping the clutch at high speeds (even if it only happened several times) the pressure plate surface may have weakened and lost some of the force (grip level) !
Out with the old, and in with a LOBA item :happy2:
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Engine's running perfect, all idle problems disappeared but the clutch is still slipping. It seems the disc has been compromised. Have had this clutch for about 25-30k and need to change the disc as my previous mechanic somehow poured oil on it and it. I'd try to resurface it but don't know if by making the disc thinner won't take some of the pressure plate's force :( My mechanic says it's possible for the pressure plate to also have problems since by slipping the clutch at high speeds (even if it only happened several times) the pressure plate surface may have weakened and lost some of the force (grip level) !
Out with the old, and in with a LOBA item :happy2:
Hmm, you must know something I don't :) Please give me some details. On Loba's website I see these 2 options :
http://www.loba-motorsport.com/shop/audi/a3/8p1-2.0-tdi/190/loba-sachs-vag-2.0-tfsi-/-tdi-stage-2-upgrade-clutch-kit?c=74 > looks identical to what I have now
http://www.loba-motorsport.com/shop/audi/a3/8p1-2.0-tdi/191/loba-sachs-vag-2.0-tfsi-/-tdi-stage-3-upgrade-clutch-kit?c=74 > sintered disc for even more torque, also available directly from Sachs
Prices for the 2 kits are about the same with Sachs so what's the deal ? Are they Sachs but modified by Loba ?
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LOBA makes their own flywheel and uses the Sachs clutchplate and cover, works a lot better than the full Sachs version. We have several here in Denmark running these and they are very pleased. Even the Danish APR dealer prefers LOBA clutches over the APR DXD C**p, he just hasn't started shifting LOBA HPFP's yet over the APR :grin:
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Thought the technology is in the disc and pressure plate, not the single mass flywheel which is piece of metal (maybe they worked on it's dimensions/mass)
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Use some brake cleaner first and then blotting paper pressed onto the clutch disc and put it into an oven (@ ~ 150° C).
I cannot guarantee it's all perfect then, but at least it's better. It's also the most gentle procedure I can think of.
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My mechanic cleaned the clutch already and as I'm opening the clutch again I will have to pay for the procedure again so I can't afford to miss again :( I will install a new disc (and pressure plate if needed after the clamp force test) and will resurface the existing disc (will keep this one as a spare)
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Ok, finished the car in time for the may 13th Hungaroring track-day so I went for a real test :) The car behaved quite well and here's the + and - :
+ water temps after the mods were amazing > max 85deg celsius !!!
+ the clutch was fine after the disc change and my mechanic modded the pressure plate (didn't wanna tell me how :) ) so the gearchanges were much better @ low and medium rpms
+ the rear wing seems to have solved the problem since the car was well balanced now (maybe a little understeer, but this may aso be due to the ESP being on)
+ the R888 were quite good and never overheated
+ the Ap Racing brakes are amazing...they stopped very fast and never overheated through the session
- added 1l of oil in 2000km (my new mechanic told me this would happen because the cylinders were pourly honed to 83mm). However, decided to add oil better than going to 83.5mm and replacing the new pistons that I've just installed 1000km before opening the engine again
- the gearchanges are a pain as usual @ high rpm and this slows me down considerably
- ESP is very annoying but was still keeping it on after the trouble I've had @ Nurburgring in 2010 with the LSD...will try to take it off next time as this should bring the car to life
Here's a lap filmed with the Iphone + Harry laptimer + external 5HZ gps module :
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Ok, finished the car in time for the may 13th Hungaroring track-day so I went for a real test :) The car behaved quite well and here's the + and - :
+ water temps after the mods were amazing > max 85deg celsius !!!
+ the clutch was fine after the disc change and my mechanic modded the pressure plate (didn't wanna tell me how :) ) so the gearchanges were much better @ low and medium rpms
+ the rear wing seems to have solved the problem since the car was well balanced now (maybe a little understeer, but this may aso be due to the ESP being on)
+ the R888 were quite good and never overheated
+ the Ap Racing brakes are amazing...they stopped very fast and never overheated through the session
- added 1l of oil in 2000km (my new mechanic told me this would happen because the cylinders were pourly honed to 83mm). However, decided to add oil better than going to 83.5mm and replacing the new pistons that I've just installed 1000km before opening the engine again
- the gearchanges are a pain as usual @ high rpm and this slows me down considerably
- ESP is very annoying but was still keeping it on after the trouble I've had @ Nurburgring in 2010 with the LSD...will try to take it off next time as this should bring the car to life
Here's a lap filmed with the Iphone + Harry laptimer + external 5HZ gps module :
refresh my memory, why do you leave esp on?
Also, consider a WOT box, it has improved my gearchanges drastically that i use WOT shifts at high rpm, i only rarely has trouble hitting the gears now even though i still have the Sachs uprated SMF kit. :drinking:
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+ water temps after the mods were amazing > max 85deg celsius !!!
Pretty COOL !!! :happy2:
Should help increasing engine life significiently - at least I hope so !!
:drinking:
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Danish, while on Nurburgring 3 years ago, I slightly hit the fence because the LSD suddenly pulled to one side when a wheel caught some sand (I did not touch the vibrator). The steering wheel was almost straight when that happened (far from the grip limit on that area). The WOT box was recommended 2 me by others so I might give it a chance. Since you can only use it at wot, how do you not get confused while changing normally. I mean on a lap you might need to sometimes change at wot (without using the clutch) and others using the clutch !
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Danish, while on Nurburgring 3 years ago, I slightly hit the fence because the LSD suddenly pulled to one side when a wheel caught some sand (I did not touch the vibrator). The steering wheel was almost straight when that happened (far from the grip limit on that area). The WOT box was recommended 2 me by others so I might give it a chance. Since you can only use it at wot, how do you not get confused while changing normally. I mean on a lap you might need to sometimes change at wot (without using the clutch) and others using the clutch !
I use mine for shifts from 3,4 and 5th gear and it's soo easy to use, as i wrote with the WOT box even my sachs smf kit works at high speed. youcan use it in the other gears and on down shifyt but no point to it in my opinion. Just remember no resting the left foor on the clutchpedal no more, or you get misfires :wink:
Remember to decat your car or the cat gets destroyed by the unburnt gasoline. :smiley:
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Danish, am I asking too much... for a gearbox to change gears like this one > ? :))) The X-trac sequential used in BTCC is about 18.000 pounds !!!
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I have already looked at a set of seats from the 599 on ebay, only 7000,- euros for them :laugh:
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+ water temps after the mods were amazing > max 85deg celsius !!!
Pretty COOL !!! :happy2:
Should help increasing engine life significiently - at least I hope so !!
:drinking:
BTW, what about oil temps?
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Don't know but I think the climatronic doaesn't show that info correctly as it was 95deg all the time no matter what I was doing !
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Finished installing the Wiechers roll-cage and Schroth racing belts. The roll-cage has been welded everywhere as I didn't find the bolt style to add enough stiffness to the chassis ! Weight added would be 25kg for the roll-cage and 4kg for the harnesses
PS : Also replaced all interior and plate number bulbs with leds !
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.staticflickr.com%2F5489%2F10786847504_717406f479_c.jpg&hash=f2e8e0fdd5d1bb922f6ed1c8a03c2147c4dd00c0) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786847504/)
IMG_7261 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786847504/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.staticflickr.com%2F5497%2F10786756926_297a446b56_c.jpg&hash=d3769a30b8d1fe146d58e239dd00a3323689d39b) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786756926/)
IMG_7262 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786756926/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.staticflickr.com%2F5481%2F10786980303_fd64de19cb_c.jpg&hash=33a8a09c10f7749d96d5869721996235ad07ef4f) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786980303/)
IMG_7263 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786980303/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.staticflickr.com%2F2810%2F10786753486_8a007d4049_c.jpg&hash=f0422ec09f06ac5cadccf57a825edbbeb399ba6d) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786753486/)
IMG_7264 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786753486/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7381%2F10786752006_1b1d17d704_c.jpg&hash=4527549f63add1b5456c9f2282d58a8e0f8ea821) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786752006/)
IMG_7265 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786752006/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
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(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.staticflickr.com%2F5524%2F10786839304_66ca4a7f21_c.jpg&hash=0bc0825573d869ab9c64a4c6531fca733521ebde) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786839304/)
IMG_7266 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786839304/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7313%2F10786748066_906165f176_c.jpg&hash=94ee37b8af828a3103f0eff186d0731023dffa7d) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786748066/)
IMG_7268 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786748066/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7415%2F10786746366_447b1b17bc_c.jpg&hash=e3ab9bce4a3689eb308df5e0d2b2830820011f37) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786746366/)
IMG_7272 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786746366/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm3.staticflickr.com%2F2846%2F10786969643_dba0924d2f_c.jpg&hash=e08c6709ada5d5cc2ad72bffe22e4c99b17fa39f) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786969643/)
IMG_7275' (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786969643/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm6.staticflickr.com%2F5520%2F10786968543_69b645705a_c.jpg&hash=edfae5914d1741b23486cd5563806dab0701a1d9) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786968543/)
IMG_7278' (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786968543/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
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(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm4.staticflickr.com%2F3807%2F10786831604_5d1cbc2cfe_c.jpg&hash=befddd45499470be7b483eabc176c054d9fd4847) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786831604/)
IMG_7280 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786831604/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm8.staticflickr.com%2F7377%2F10786742016_194757ce1f_c.jpg&hash=54d497024529e2adb014a9f664edc20dd85ee862) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786742016/)
IMG_7281 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/10786742016/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
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Awesome looking, got to say it looks like the things i consider doing to mine, but i haven't found the courage for it yet ;)
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Very nicely done, my friend! :congrats:
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Thanks guys. Danish, I hesitated a little bit myself before going this route but now I'm happy I went this route knowing I have another daily car. Several points :
- The leds brought the total consumption down from around 60-70W to about 5W which should also spare my battery
- The torpedo light was on at all time when the car wasn't locked which may have been the cause of my Odyssey battery ending dead several times while the car was at my mechanic (they kept the car unlocked). I noticed that only by seeing the light on after removing the lateral panel in order to install the leds to the passenger's feet
- After 4-5 removals, the very soft screws that came with the Recaro seats were done. I barely succeded in removing some of them for the last time. Thanks to rex's tip, I bought much harder screws from Fabory and with a thicker head. If you can imagine the high quality screws costed me less than 3 Euros but Recaro didn't think they should use such expensive screws on a 700Euro seat (+200-300Euro for the rails)
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Some late updates :
- I finished installing the roll-cage from Wiechers. The kit came with all bars joined through bolts which I didn't like at all and found it to bring too little aditional stiffness to the chassis. Also, although I've ordered the bar for my Schroth harnesses mounting, they sent me a horisntal bar that was to be connected right behind the seats on the lower main frame (close to the air-con for the rear passengers). The harnesses can in no way be mounted on that as the angle to the horisontal plane is much more than the 20deg as advised by Schroth. Therefore, I purchased a steel bar and installed it on the rear rollcage fixing, on top of the wheel arches. All being said, I welded everything, including the 4 points on which the rollcage fixes to the car and I've reinforced those points with thick metal plates !
- Installed the Schroth harnesses using the supplied eyebolts at the recommended angles
- Purchased a Manfrotto 2-arm mount for my big Canon HF-G30 camera (I will also be using a Gopro 3+ for rear or driver/co-driver filming)
- Since recent logs showed my LPFP was barely reaching 3bar at redline, I've purchased a TT-RS OEM LPFP which hopefully will work well with the OEM controller. Once the weather allows it, I will install it and run some logs
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimagizer.imageshack.us%2Fv2%2F800x600q90%2F13%2Fjzqh.jpg&hash=f78c99948e83ceac8e8a679cfb001d5591bd70c6) (https://imageshack.com/i/0djzqhj)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimagizer.imageshack.us%2Fv2%2F800x600q90%2F838%2Fzs3v.jpg&hash=a4a0d524548c948e98b3e971a7ae12a95944bd45) (https://imageshack.com/i/nazs3vj)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimagizer.imageshack.us%2Fv2%2F800x600q90%2F826%2Fr24v.jpg&hash=375ee23f975b1bde75e8f56e46a2afac1bb9948f) (https://imageshack.com/i/myr24vj)
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nice.. im in the process of fitting a cage/seats/harnesses!
fingers crossed your okay with the pump ive been running one for about 3k on the standard controller now
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Wasn't that difficult of an install. Forgot to mention the roll-cage has 18.5kg in the standard version and about 22kg with the tube that I've added. The harnesses have about 4kg ! I've also exchanged my door cards with some black OEM ones and removed 17.5kg !!! (that;s how heavy mine were) !
Pikey, please tell me what was you pressure with the OEm pump ? (I suppose it was low and that's why you made the change). Have you got any logs with the TTRS lpfp ?
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Wasn't that difficult of an install. Forgot to mention the roll-cage has 18.5kg in the standard version and about 22kg with the tube that I've added. The harnesses have about 4kg !
Pikey, please tell me what was you pressure with the OEm pump ? (I suppose it was low and that's why you made the change). Have you got any logs with the TTRS lpfp ?
i dont do none of my logging i leave it all to my tuner... i changed because i have a big turbo setup
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Ah, ok...totally different situation then. I guess if it's good for you, it will be more that I need on my k04 :)
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yeah they seem to be capable of around 550hp :happy2:
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Ok guys, finally got to install the TT-RS LPFP with some minor modification of the floating mechanism. As many have had problems with it showing the right amount of gas in the tank, here's what I did. The 2 pumps have the floating mechanisms in a totally different position and the TT-RS one touches the tank wall when it's in the middle position. Therefore, I had to "shorten" the metal wire holding the plastic floater so that it would come closer to the pump and further away from the wall, without changing the min and max positions too much also. Not changing them at all was impossible but i kept the minimum exactly the same as before (that one is the most important cause it shows you when tou run out of gas) and the max position became 1-1.5cm lower which probably means I will still see a full tank when 5-7liters from the full tank are gone
1) the 2 pumps aligned in the same position you install them on the tank...as you can see the floater are in a totally different position
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/12679020034_fe9a1949b4_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12679020034/)
IMG_7678 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12679020034/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
2) Original floating mechanism
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5479/12678686513_86db523073_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12678686513/)
IMG_7683 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12678686513/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
3) Modified floating mechanism brings the floater closer to the pump and further away from the wall ... keep in mind this is the situation for my AXX GTI, other tanks may be slightly different !
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3705/12678685713_63433268c9_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12678685713/)
IMG_7695 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12678685713/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
4) Max position change between the old pumps. Originally the TTRS one was 0.5cm higher than mine, after the mod it was 1-1.5cm lower than mine
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7296/12678684593_dc10c2e530_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12678684593/)
IMG_7697 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12678684593/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
5) Heard some complaining about some electrical wiring connectors mismatch...for me all was plug and play here
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7349/12678683853_c6be6a0c3e_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12678683853/)
IMG_7698 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12678683853/) by fuscobal (http://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
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Great job as allways Fuscobal, mine is a bit temperamental but the refuel shows at 45 liter instead of 50 which is fine by me :)
Still i might do this when you give some feedback on how this works for you :drinking:
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Sure thing Danish. At 1/4 it shows exactly the same as before (that's what I had in the tank when I swapped the pumps). Will see what happens when I fill up !
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Got the chance to floor it several times and all is ok, car is definately pulling stronger. Also, walked the car till the gas needle was close to 0 to make sure it indicates correctly and the car doesn't run out of gas earlier that shown on the dash ! However, I've measured 100-160kmh with vag-com and pulled 6.3s instead of 6.8-7s before changing the pump. Several years ago when the car was ok but 200kg heavier, I was doing 6.5-6.6s. I keep reading guys taht pull 5.8s or even less and can't figure why as all my logs look fine. This week I will go from my 2.75" 200cell cat Milltek to a custom decat true 3" exhaust and update the software (my Revo is perhaps the first version for stage 3 and is 5 years old...they ight have improved some stuff in all these years :) )
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The new 3" decat custom exhaust :
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7387/12952847983_8ce78e22a0_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12952847983/)
custom 3''_17 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12952847983/) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7378/12952847133_65bef4e886_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12952847133/)
custom 3''_18 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12952847133/) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7342/12953132574_ab08b388b8_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12953132574/)
custom 3''_21 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12953132574/) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2841/12952845093_fb87e9effc_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12952845093/)
custom 3''_24 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12952845093/) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2847/12953130414_dee7257375_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12953130414/)
custom 3''_25 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12953130414/) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7356/12952699265_54c61f8e28_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12952699265/)
custom 3''_26 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12952699265/) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7457/12952698285_3f7b451763_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12952698285/)
custom 3''_31 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12952698285/) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7401/12953127094_435a4b74d0_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12953127094/)
custom 3''_33 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12953127094/) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3710/12952839933_da6991afba_b.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12952839933/)
custom 3''_35 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/12952839933/) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
It's 6kg lighter than my old Milltek (24.5kg vs 18.5kg), although it has 2 mufflers and larger diameter. The pipe has a 1.5mm thickness in both cases ! At idle and under 3000rpms it's very similar in noise to Milltek, then it gets much louder gradually !
PS : Made a software update and now the car pulls like crazy but couldn't measure anything since it was raining all these days !
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That looks like a fin job on that exhaust and 6 kg is an impressive weight reduction!
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Very nice! :happy2: :congrats:
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Yes indeed. Also, the exhaust piping is myuch "straighter" and is a true 3" which only uses straight pipe and elbows welded together. Milltek uses bent piping and in 3-4 places I've measured a reduction from 2.75" to 2.65". Knowing the smallest section gives the flow the increase in sectional area from 2.65" to 3" (outside diameter) is about 28% (calculated on the inside) !
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:happy2: New exhaust looks nice & the weight saving is quite a lot - I know you love to shed weight :grin:
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finaly some proper exhaust with no corners cut.
sent by me
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First video from the first romanian racing track >
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Very nice to see your car in it's natural environment :happy2:!
A few thoughts:
1. It seems that the car is puling like crazy! That WOT is clearly doing it's job.
2. There seems to be a lot of understeer. It is the car / the tires / the weather or something else?
3. You could buy some A pillar interior lining!
4. Lovely steering wheel. :happy2:
5. The camera should focus on the windshield. It is focusing on the center dash... I think you are lucky the videos are not very bad because if it would have been sunny you would not have seen anything outside the car.
Looking forward for some other videos!
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Great video - great to see you blowing everything off the circuit!
2006 2.0 FSi GT
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Thanks guys. Rex, WOT box is much faster but must be very careful cause if your timing is not perfect you could get to 10.000rpms or slip the clutch at 180kmh as I did once. Those noises you hear at 3:46 are actually flames on my exhaust as spectators reported :) The car understeers pretty bad but pretty much all FWDs do that on this track because the corners are very tight on exit...you will see when you get here next year. On the other hand, I kept the ESP on which also brought more understeer !
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Thanks guys. Rex, WOT box is much faster but must be very careful cause if your timing is not perfect you could get to 10.000rpms or slip the clutch at 180kmh as I did once. Those noises you hear at 3:46 are actually flames on my exhaust as spectators reported :) The car understeers pretty bad but pretty much all FWDs do that on this track because the corners are very tight on exit...you will see when you get here next year. On the other hand, I kept the ESP on which also brought more understeer !
I get 2 times flames and bangs when i WOT at the tracks, also i have a big issue with the ESP, eventhough i turn it off it enganges and brake the outer front whell in the turns which slows me down quite a bit. I'm considering getting a switch fitted that turns off the steering angle sensor,which will totally disable the ESP :happy2:
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From what I know, ESP can't be turned off completely on our cars but I suppose you could do what you said. Please keep me posted, I'm curious on what improvements will you get !
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Latest Update :
- Ohlins R&T coilover that will replace my old and faithful Bilstein B16
- AST camberplates custom made for Ohlins (there are some compatibility issues so I'll have to make a piece for them to fit)
- VWRacing adjustable end-links
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8750/16581340119_30b6acf79c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rgeGJt)Ohlins RT_17 (https://flic.kr/p/rgeGJt) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8598/16560214457_a7d5e27981_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/renqNV)Ohlins RT_15 (https://flic.kr/p/renqNV) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7593/16766417622_24bf0f4fa7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rxAgPU)Ohlins RT_13 (https://flic.kr/p/rxAgPU) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7621/16767485715_66291fff26_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rxFKki)Ohlins RT_06 (https://flic.kr/p/rxFKki) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7591/16767484835_0425df02fa_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rxFK58)VWR endlinks_1 (https://flic.kr/p/rxFK58) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
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Such a good looking car !!
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Latest Update :
- Ohlins R&T coilover that will replace my old and faithful Bilstein B16
- AST camberplates custom made for Ohlins (there are some compatibility issues so I'll have to make a piece for them to fit)
- VWRacing adjustable end-links
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8750/16581340119_30b6acf79c_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rgeGJt)Ohlins RT_17 (https://flic.kr/p/rgeGJt) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8598/16560214457_a7d5e27981_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/renqNV)Ohlins RT_15 (https://flic.kr/p/renqNV) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7593/16766417622_24bf0f4fa7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rxAgPU)Ohlins RT_13 (https://flic.kr/p/rxAgPU) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7621/16767485715_66291fff26_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rxFKki)Ohlins RT_06 (https://flic.kr/p/rxFKki) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7591/16767484835_0425df02fa_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rxFK58)VWR endlinks_1 (https://flic.kr/p/rxFK58) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
Getting the öhlins is really opping the game Fuscobal, i really look forward to hear your impressions of them :)
Keep up the good work :)
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The custom piece that will replace AST's perch will probably be made out of Aluminum 7075 and will look like this
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8594/16808817362_45fa473ee7_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rBkzMU)Spring perch (https://flic.kr/p/rBkzMU) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
I've put my hands on a used OEM top mount and tried to make the piece tall enough to bring the whole assembly to the same height as Ohlins + OEM mount in order not to mess with Ohlin's calculations of damper movement. The perch that came with AST's top mount could be used as it was (with just an inside diam enlargement from 14 to 15mm) but would have been about 20mm shorter than Ohlins + OEM top mount so the damper would have had less travel !
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An impressive list of mods there buddy! :happy2:
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Very nice, my friend! :notworthy:
Can't wait to read/hear your review after the first track day.
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rex, in the meanwhile, our friend Cristi installed his R&T on his BMW 3 series (very similar to mine and about the same spring rates). He was on tall winter tires but the ride was butter smooth (he said better than oem). We literally couldn't feel anything over bumps on the street ! Unfortunately it was raining quite heavy so couldn't drive too fast !
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Raw chunk of 7075 aluminium is here. Strength smilar to steel but 2.8g/cm3 density vs 7.2g/cm3 for steel
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ftapatalk.imageshack.com%2Fv2%2F15%2F03%2F19%2F348b09dbeef37e9a4352cf83fb1b394c.jpg&hash=0c70a74da14a83e373551fb6d59617a71593dd30)
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What for?
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Rex, please see post #245. The custom piece is done but unfortunately it will raise height by 18-20mm which may cancel all the lowering available as compared to the stock suspension. If the car will sit to high, I will be forced to let go the camberplates and use the original top mounts ! :sad1:
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Sorry, I missed that :innocent:
Your car is quite high and I doubt you won't be able to keep the current height.
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Im not a fan of the scoop... it just screams fake. Other than that, great looking Aveo. Looks very mean from head on and Im liking the black out. Looks like you have hubcaps with black covers on them. Do you have plans to get rims in the future?
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Ohlins is finally on the car. After all, the difference in height between B16 and RT (about 20mm on the table) wasn't that big once installed on the car. With the adjusters in the lowest position, the car sits 8mm higher than what it was with the B16 with the adjusters set halfway. Let's say I can deal with the added height but the camberplates are extremely noisy and this is not because of the aluminium parts made by me. As it can be seen on the pics, on my perch, I've replicated the lower side of the camberplate's piece (actualy my piece replaces aboyut 3 pieces from the camberplate) that has a collar to hold the rubber part in place. The problem with that collar is the camberplate and my aluminium part contact only on that small collar which leaves a play of about 2mm between the 2 of them that can also be felt in the steering wheel! Unfortunately I will most certainly go back to the OEM mounts as Ohlins intended. I've also installed the VWR end links and had to cut about 5mm from one damper's ear because the were in contact with each other at full turn (nothing to impact the resistance of the ear though) !
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8719/16805561138_6674c785ec_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rB3TQ7)Ohlins R&T_54 (https://flic.kr/p/rB3TQ7) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7594/16993282765_45f1bb46d0_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rTD1VT)Ohlins R&T_56 (https://flic.kr/p/rTD1VT) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7590/16785906497_88649f01af_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rzjabZ)Ohlins R&T_58 (https://flic.kr/p/rzjabZ) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7647/16785906307_04ce8f393d_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rzja8H)Ohlins R&T_60 (https://flic.kr/p/rzja8H) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8688/16373189663_887eea50c9_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qWQSRv)Ohlins R&T_61 (https://flic.kr/p/qWQSRv) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7634/16373189473_774c0e5ddb_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qWQSNe)Ohlins R&T_62 (https://flic.kr/p/qWQSNe) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7638/16370905544_b9e33abaa8_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/qWDaS9)Ohlins R&T_63 (https://flic.kr/p/qWDaS9) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7611/16992389151_25a8523165_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/rTyrhK)Ohlins R&T_64 (https://flic.kr/p/rTyrhK) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/people/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
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Fantastic looking damper setup, sooo sexy :party:
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Thanks Danish. Went back to the OEm mount after all since the AST camberplate was too noisy and was clicking. All fine now. Car has 26 adjustement steps on front and 55 steps on rear but don't know if after 20 they mean anything (by the manual they should only be 20). The car is set to 7 on front and 10 on rear. It is very smooth and quiet compared to even an OEm suspension. Low speed bumps and potholes are absorbed much better than B16 while at high speed cornering I could definately feel the much stiffer front springs opposing to compression. High speed roll seems very well damped (haven't got to the track yet to see the times and didn't get to warmup the semislicks yet). Will try several setting on my next track day and report back !
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That suspension is looking great :drinking:
True car porn! :congrats: :congrats: :congrats:
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Ok, it's time for a review after my first track day with this coilover
The road to the track and back > Set it at 7 clicks on front and 10 clicks on rear (0 is hardest) and the ride is just superb. Small bumps, tram rails or small potholes are just hardly noticeable where with my old B16 my breath was literally stopping from the vertical accelerations. Steering is a little bit less responsive than B16 at low speeds (under 60kmh) and similar after that. Roll control is amazing at high speeds (over 140kmh) where you can clearly see Ohlins is superior.
The track > Went 3 times on our recently opened track, 2 times with B16 and now with the Ohlins. Started with the setting mentioned above and the car was understeering pretty bad, knowing the turns are very tight on exit which punsishes FWD cars already. Left the front on 7 and moved the rear from 10 to 7 and felt the car imediately changed behaviour to neutral which led to better corner exit. Afterwards I've tried 5F and 5R and towards the end of the day had my best time with 3F and 3 rear. I must say the steps are very noticeable as compared to B16 where they were quite vague. For this track, I will next time try 3F and 1 rear to see if I can make the car oversteer a little bit. I must mention that with F & R set equal, I couldn't make the rear loose traction no matter how hard I tried. The car was simply sliding totally neutral. At the end of the day, my time was only 0.5sec faster than with B16 (1min46.2sec) but can't really compare since on one hand I learned the track better at the last visit but on the other hand my R888s were over the thread markers and the track temps were higher on the last visit (40degC as opposed to an optimal of 20-30degC)
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I have some questions regarding how the wibg was attached to the rear hatch.
What did you have to cut to attach the wing? any pictures? how many mounting points.
I am in the process of installing a wing on my mk6.
Multam
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No pics with the "insides" of the install, just the "outsides". However, the 2 mounting points have been heavily reinforced with a welded steel plate under the hatch's upper metal layer !
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On my last track day I succeeded boiling the fluid on my 1st session. The next logical step was to find a way and cool the brakes. While building my brake ducts, I've also found the VWRacing front air-dam, which sits about 6cm lower than the original bumper, was blocking the air flow through the oem vent towards the brakes !! And the upgrade >
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/658/22990960795_6d40b03f12_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/B2CFDM)Racire frane11 (https://flic.kr/p/B2CFDM) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5726/22572638638_58a36dc402_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/AoEF3N)Racire frane07 (https://flic.kr/p/AoEF3N) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/615/22598768429_7a2a434a5e_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/AqYAwr)Racire frane05 (https://flic.kr/p/AqYAwr) by fuscobal (https://www.flickr.com/photos/24104723@N05/), on Flickr
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You can clearly see how the vwr airdam is blocking the air through the oem duct
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.tapatalk-cdn.com%2F15%2F11%2F13%2F15eabfa5707dbe0462c7e14129b37342.jpg&hash=df1f05925709e38456fb1725a4fd136acd14b908)
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First impressions after the latest track day (mid November) are very positive. Not even the slightest hint of fade and was able to push much harder than before due to the extra confidence. Best lap time was now 1:58.74 as opposed to 2:05.xx on the previous track day. Not all the credit goes to the brakes. The Federal FZ-201 tires are just fabulous. The grip they had over the "end of life" R888 was just phenomenal. The comparison is not the best as everybody knows the Toyos lose grip on the second part of their life !
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Thought it would be nice to update the mod list from the 1st page :
- K04 turbocharger
- S3 injectors
- S3 camshafts
- Je Pistons 83mm
- Integrated Engineering Rods
- Calico rod bearings
- Autotech HPFP
- TT-RS in-tank fuel pump
- THX intercooler
- AC delete
- Additional OEM hot-weather water radiator
- Forge coolant hoses
- Odyssey ER-40 battery
- Custom cat-less 3" turbo-back
- Evoms CAI
- PCV fix
- RS4 fuel pressure regulator valve
- 42DD + FFE shifter bushings
- AP Racing Pro 5000+ 362x32mm front brakes + Pagid RSL1 pads + custom cooling
- S3 rear brakes + Carbotech XP8 pads
- Ohlins R&T coilovers
- BSH solid 27mm RSB
- H&R solid 28mm FSB
- Autotech rear end-links
- Peloquin LSD
- TT camber adjustable arms
- S3 aluminium spindles
- Sachs racing SMF clutch
- Forge short shift
- BSH pendeleum engine mount & Custom side mounts
- Team Dynamics Pro 1.2 rims on 8x18"
- Toyo R888/Federal FZ-201 tires on 235/40/18
- Revo stage 3 software
- Recaro poleposition seats
- Schroth harnesses
- Custom rear roll-cage
- VWRacing front air-dam
- Reverie rear wing
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Impressive as always, then again your car has been one of the main inspirations for my own mk 5 GTI build.
Now it's time for an A3 2,0 (TSI) S-tronic Quattro build for me :happy2:
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what tie rods did you use???
The stock gti tie rods are too short to use with the audi tt arms.
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what tie rods did you use???
The stock gti tie rods are too short to use with the audi tt arms.
You use the TT tie rods and adapt the steering assembly by machining app. 5mm of in both ends, i did this mod as well on my GTI
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I didn't machine anything. Steering is OEM. Forgot to mention the VWRacing adjustable swaybar drop links !
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Nice! :happy2: