MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: stealthwolf on July 28, 2010, 04:38:24 pm
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What size socket do I need to get the old sparkies out? Need to get a sparky removal tool.
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Never mind. Found out. Spark plugs are 10mm which is 16mm when referring to standard socket size :stupid:
Hence need a 10mm spark plug socket. Which genius thought this up?
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I was gonna say 10mm but didn't want to look silly if I got it wrong :ashamed:, (don't ask me how I knew that)
Glad you got it sussed :smiley:
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good shout Mandy :surprised:
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a 10mm spark plug socket has a 16mm hex size. I believe that the 10mm relates to the diameter of the ceramic element of the plug as most plug sockets have a rubber insert that is just smaller then 10mm internal diameter so it grabs the socket to allow it to be removed from the plug 'hole' easily. Another useless fact is that a 16mm spark plug will have a 14mm thread with a metric 1.25mm pitch.
some tips: when removing the plug its always easier to do on a hot engine than a cold one. Re-installing the plug: push the plug into the socket and then into the trhread, turn counter clockwise by HAND until you feel a click this means that the 2 threads are aligned and will tighten in without cross threading. Tighten the plug by hand and then torque up tight, release the plug and then tighten with a torque wrench. This crushes the compression washer and then retightens it to the right torque meaning that the plugs wont be lower than the desired torque once they heat up.
Bored yet? I could go on.....
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How do you tighten by hand on the TFSi as they sit at the bottom of the Coilpack holes :confused:
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Awesome info PDT. More is definitely welcome.
What about the use of anti-seize?
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Bump.
I am very interested too.
Just to clarify. You nip up the plug with a normal socket and wrench. Then slacken off before using a Torque wrench.
Also what is the correct torque?
And what about anti sieze?
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Think the torque is 20-21Nm.
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I use a Draper spark plug removal tool, it's excellent and if I remember only a few quid...
Here it is;
http://www.tooltrolley.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=31882&manufacturers_id=268&osCsid=18be283a5e846dc058b5fe72d1fbcf59
Anyhow, all you do, is simply push that into the hole, it locks into place on top of the spark plug, then twist it to loosen, keep turning and then pull gently upwards... The spark plug will then come out with the tool :)
Fitting is a reverse of the above, do NOT overtighten, all you need to do is tighten it just enough - basically, so that you wouldn't need to wrestle with the wrench tool to remove it next time... Turn it until it is very tight - just not over-tight.
It's very easy to do, but very satisfying fitting new plugs - I did mine last week.
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^^^Halfrauds do the same one, which I was thinking of buying.
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The halfords one works perfectly, spot on lenth to get to the plugs.
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How do you tighten by hand on the TFSi as they sit at the bottom of the Coilpack holes :confused:
Put it inside the socket then turn that with your fingers.
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I use a Draper spark plug removal tool, it's excellent and if I remember only a few quid...
Here it is;
http://www.tooltrolley.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=31882&manufacturers_id=268&osCsid=18be283a5e846dc058b5fe72d1fbcf59
Anyhow, all you do, is simply push that into the hole, it locks into place on top of the spark plug, then twist it to loosen, keep turning and then pull gently upwards... The spark plug will then come out with the tool :)
Fitting is a reverse of the above, do NOT overtighten, all you need to do is tighten it just enough - basically, so that you wouldn't need to wrestle with the wrench tool to remove it next time... Turn it until it is very tight - just not over-tight.
It's very easy to do, but very satisfying fitting new plugs - I did mine last week.
Never in 30 yrs torqued up spark plugs, you certainly can't with a tool like this ^^^
Always used a socket set.
Any more comments on anti sieze / copper grease for the plugs before they go back in?
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Any more comments on anti sieze / copper grease for the plugs before they go back in?
+1. I bought both the spark plug socket and the T-bar socket tool. Also bought some anti-seize copperslip grease too.
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NGK web site says there is nothing more important than correct torque for plugs.
It also says that the new plugs have an anti-sieze coating.
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You can tighten them up by hand by using a long extension onto the plug socket. This is important as you CAN FEEL the thread biting so much less chance of crossthreading than if you just tried to tighten with a ratchet.
Anti-sieze is applied from the factory on 99% of new spark plugs, anyhow most cylinder heads are an alloy and the threaded section of plugs are usually stainless so the two wont really sieze like they used to on older engines.
Copper slip is a no-no as its a conductive grease and can affect the spark deliver if it gets onto the electrode. Molybendum diasulphate based grease is the type to use if you must.
The initial tightening is to crush the compression washer, then re-torque to the correct amount using a torque wrench to create a good tight seal. If you only tighten once than the compression washer may not be fully pressed flat and when the engine warms up you will often find the spark plug is less tight than the desired amount.
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The initial tightening is to crush the compression washer, then re-torque to the correct amount using a torque wrench to create a good tight seal
How tight does the initial tightening need to be?
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If you have a torque wrench, just use that set to 20nm, back it off, then re-torque it up. This way you can't over tighten and stretch the thread's.
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I would give it a good nip up with the tool or socket bar, not over-tighten, but more than hand tight.
Then I am going to use the torque wrench...
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If you have a torque wrench, just use that set to 20nm, back it off, then re-torque it up. This way you can't over tighten and stretch the thread's.
Great advice. Will nip up by and then torque up
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Silly questions - but when people say "nip up with the tool" - does nip-up just mean tighten it until it doesn't turn anymore by just using normal/little force?
Any looking to buy a torque wrench - they seem to range from £70 in Halfords to £20 on Amazon. 1/2" or 3/8" needed? Better spending more?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Toolzone-3-8-Torque-Wrench/dp/B001JJ3KM6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1295854138&sr=8-12
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_178843_langId_-1_categoryId_165469#dtab
Cheers
Richard.
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Looks like the difference is down to calibration.
Would the following work fine together to get the job done?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0012MAZYQ/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-3587-Spark-Plug-Socket/dp/B0039ULVZ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1295874183&sr=8-2
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-34570-8-Inch-Square-Ratchet/dp/B0001K9T2O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1295874719&sr=8-1
Thought the following is probably a better bet on the torque wrench front give it's been tested.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-STW1011-Micrometer-7-112Nm-5-83lb-ft/dp/B000ROF64O/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1295874719&sr=8-12
Many thanks
Richard.