MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => How to Guides / Troubleshooting => Topic started by: monte on August 10, 2010, 12:24:44 pm
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Right first of all I must stress that this is not my "How-to" however it is a great "How-to" and surely deserve a place on our forum as it appears that more and more 2.0tfsi are prone to this wear causing bad or should I say Terrible fuel consumption.
It is from the Briskoda Forum and all the praise goes to Carl for his hard work and great write up.
Here goes, and like I say, this is just copied and pasted. :wink:
"How-To Change Fuel Pump Cam Follower on VAG 2.0L TFSi"
Ok here's another Tutorial. This is done on a MK2 Skoda Octavia vRS but i would imagine the process is the same or pretty similar for all 2.0 TFSi Engines. I have had a look round on the net and not been able to find a tutorial for this. Apologies if someone has done this already.
Before i start the usual disclaimer
NEITHER I NOR BRISKODA WILL BE HELD RESPONSIBLE IF YOU UNDERTAKE THE PROCESS DETAILED BELOW AND SOMETHING GOES WRONG. YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK!!
Ok formalities out the way here we go.
You will need the following:
T30 Torx Bit
13mm Ratchet Spanner / Ring or Open ended Spanner
17mm Open Ended Spanner
Cloth
New Cam Follower Part no. - 06D 109 309 C
Ok this whole process took me about 45mins which included taking pics and setting TDC. Ensure that nobody opens the driver door throughout this or you will end up with a nice stream of fuel all over you as this charges the fuel system when doing this. To get around you can just disconnect the battery.
Firstly remove engine cover. To do this just pull up firmly but slowly till the rubber lugs pop of the housing.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000941.jpg&hash=4d91f9d3ea0a67d56c11913baa32928e962e720d)
I didn't take any Pics of setting TDC as i had to use a small dentist type mirror and torch to be able to see what i was doing and it would never have worked on a picture.
Basically to set TDC undo the 2 left hand nuts at the side of the Cylinder head. You will need 2 people to do this next bit.
GENTLY and i mean gently pull back the side of the cover and look at the cogs on which the timing belt is sat. The biggest cog which is nearest the front of the engine at the top has a Small arrow on the left had side as you look at it. Also on the side of the engine just above the cog is a small arrow again. The aim is to get these 2 in line so you know your engine is at Top Dead Centre or TDC. Now to move the cog round put the engine in gear (i found it easiest in 4th) and have someone gently rock the car forwards to get the cog to turn. You keep your eye on the side of the timing cog looking for the small arrow. Keep doing this until the 2 Arrows are in line. Once this is done apply the handbrake and then tighten up the nuts on the cover as you don't need access to it again.
Im not sure if you have to Set TDC. When i installed the Autotech internals i was told that you must do it. So as you are removing the fuel pump i always do it just to be safe. If anyone with any mechanical expertise knows different please let me know.
Now we are ready to tackle the pump.
Firstly disconnect the 2 electrical connectors.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000944.jpg&hash=4719fe9125568f9ad1ba3588cb35b0870a428d5d)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000970.jpg&hash=32e7eb67a7d0e0cfdfb3a808b291ba710ed1798f)
The next thing to do is to let out any excess fuel in the pump. On the lower right hand side their is a pressure valve. Remove the black dust cap then using a screwdriver or allen key press in the valve (same as on a tyre) and hold in till all fuel is released. Ensure you place a cloth underneath to catch the excess.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000945.jpg&hash=05c0224174f3ad0a5e859c84b3868553aa75bcb5)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000947.jpg&hash=efa43fc3d015171a1823b06e8af0bd0b2ca69f01)
Once you have done that using a 13mm Ratchet spanner/Ring spanner. Remove this valve ensuring you leave the cloth underneath as a bit more fuel will leak out. You have to remove this valve to get at the bottom bolt on the pump.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000948.jpg&hash=a5e6f86cd1c2918727635d01c6f08ab5194eed82)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000951.jpg&hash=af61b556fa8743b8c19b8d2fcf1f8734901b1fec)
Now depending on how old your car is you will either have 2 metal pipes or 1 metal 1 rubber pipe at the bottom of the pump. Mine has 1 metal 1 rubber so the process is quite easy. I am assuming (but haven't seen the other fitting) that the 2 metal pipes are held in by the same size nut. Any way take a 17mm open end spanner and undo the nut all the way till it falls down the metal pipe. Again make sure cloth is underneath to catch any excess fuel.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000950.jpg&hash=78777203771dda81c0ef0be9b58176438c963552)
Once this is done you are now ready to tackle removing the pump. The pump is held in by 3 x T30 Torx bolts. Undo these bolts and remove. The pump will now come away from the engine.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000952.jpg&hash=98659df9a3ac6a4e06facb4ff6bc695cf7c34e16)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000954.jpg&hash=c0dd4d79c47241cdce88a959e9997115e2c88396)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000955.jpg&hash=4931600dd9f41d8418dcc000686d42a1dace9c15)
Inside you will see the cam follower. Using your little finger just pull it out. Check for signs of wear. This one has covered 14 k miles since it was last changed but i don't think that wear is too excessive.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000957.jpg&hash=951e3caefd20769e0ab66d7c3d31512b72239eb4)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000960.jpg&hash=0e7a42e42fca6e0448594ea404dc2a3ead79feb9)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000962.jpg&hash=c1db233713809222edd31b052ee327d55ef3d353)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000964.jpg&hash=2ed3c758a430f2c89c5426e4e4b3b1ea1a4915b8)
Take a new cam follower and place into the hole you took the old one from. There is no need to coat it in oil/fuel etc as it comes already coated in the little pot it is delivered in.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000965.jpg&hash=3526d0aa124230129f25d1d331b427c79256c5e2)
Once done you are now ready to put the pump back on.
Firstly line up pump and push up against engine so it is flush. Then by hand only tighten the 3 x T30 Torx bolts. This ensures the bolts don't cross thread etc. Once your happy the bolts are as tight as you can do it with your fingers and they are not cross threaded then using your T30 Torx bit tighten up the bolts. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Basically do these hand tight using a ratchet. But DO NOT apply to much force. If you knacker the thread holding the pump in it's gonna become expensive.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000967.jpg&hash=3296aa6563ed2a9e16c95a00e67f9e950da0b8c2)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000969.jpg&hash=444aa6616cdb7f08b1e6eb7b436d7e7009c8dbb0)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000968.jpg&hash=319d7df374571919dbafe2cd86129b447fa25740)
Once they are done then reconnect the metal pipe at the bottom using hands first so no cross threading then the 17mm spanner. Note the nut does not go all the way to the top.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000971.jpg&hash=86e421bdcb946188aabd02c55953bb572f3da5e3)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000972.jpg&hash=6121508d3477900c6b32afe34832f07485a7a1b8)
Then reconnect the pressure valve using the 13mm Ratchet Spanner/Ring Spanner and replace the dust cap.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000973.jpg&hash=fc6e6457f52fbc713881c9326b98e64a0d8d6e6c)
Now reconnect the 2 electrical connectors and check everything is all seated properly and correct.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000975.jpg&hash=ed88addf47a0c514a502d98d8f1ab676ac48e36a)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000953.jpg&hash=892c9aa1c0faad744129efcc07f72bde445f5c6f)
If you disconnected the battery reconnect it. Put keys in ignition turn it on and then open drivers door 2-3 times to charge up the fuel system and get rid of any air in it. Once that is done start engine and check all is ok no leaks from around pump etc.
If you have VCDS check no faults and Voila all done.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000977.jpg&hash=da9fb6225d626ce32427f00c7788da4a68e5f7f6)
As i said took me 45 mins including taking pics. You could quite easily do it in about 25-30mins.
Comments good or bad welcome
HIH
Carl
So there you go :happy2: Excellent write up from Carl :notworthy:
Reading some of the comments though, there are a few people that say you don't need to bother setting the engine to TDC. I guess if you want to be on the safe side then do it, but it is up to you!
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I'm pretty sure Carl posted it on here :confused:
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I'm pretty sure Carl posted it on here :confused:
WHAT??? :confused: :confused: :confused: Well our search function couldn't find it mate :ashamed:
It did cross my mind that he would have, thats why I searched a few times. :sad1:
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Here. :P
http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,8339.0.html
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I'm pretty sure Carl posted it on here :confused:
Yep that's a Blue Bullet tutorial I think.
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Here. :P
http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,8339.0.html
oh poo :scared: Sorry guys. I don't understand why I couldn't find it. I searched for "how to change cam follower" and had no results....so I googled it
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Oh well, now its on twice people will definitely find when they search...... or maybe not :ashamed:
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Not this "Blue Bullet" then?
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.webalice.it%2Falberto.frangini%2Fsupposte.jpg&hash=376158464732c30150812fc2947d36ce092b7e18)
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Some of your own Ian??
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Nope mine are not for sharing. :wink:
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Is there a set milage change for this ?. Seems to be a bit vague & i know a lot of yanks have had problems with these but then there oil is not the same quality we get over here.
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Thought i recognised that tutorial & car.
Suppose i should seeing as it's my tutorial & my car :P :P :P
With regards to Mileage to change - It depends who you ask. The general consensus is between 8-12k miles ( so that will be a round 10k :laugh:) however i do mine around every 15-20k miles and the wear is never anymore excessive than you see in the Pics.
However i don't drive like i stole it, it never goes on a track and i regularly maintain it and keep everything tip top.
I know some people say it's not necessary on later cars (2007 onwards) due to revised designs. But for the sake of £25 and about 30mins work it's a no brainer for me. Especially if you are running a highly modified engine :happy2:
Oh and regards not seeing the pics on Briskoda i think you have to be logged in :wink:
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Thought i recognised that tutorial & car.
Suppose i should seeing as it's my tutorial & my car :P :P :P
With regards to Mileage to change - It depends who you ask. The general consensus is between 8-12k miles ( so that will be a round 10k :laugh:) however i do mine around every 15-20k miles and the wear is never anymore excessive than you see in the Pics.
However i don't drive like i stole it, it never goes on a track and i regularly maintain it and keep everything tip top.
I know some people say it's not necessary on later cars (2007 onwards) due to revised designs. But for the sake of £25 and about 30mins work it's a no brainer for me. Especially if you are running a highly modified engine :happy2:
Oh and regards not seeing the pics on Briskoda i think you have to be logged in :wink:
.........thanks for that.Think i should get mine changed,due a service soon so will add that to the list.
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Why would you need to set the engine at tdc for changing the cam ??
That i dont understand??
Great write up Carl. :happy2:
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Im guessing this isnt something that will be done by VW under normal servicing conditions? So I would guess my car has done 5 years and 35k on the original MY05 follower.
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Why would you need to set the engine at tdc for changing the cam ??
That i dont understand??
Great write up Carl. :happy2:
It's to take the pressure off the piston in the Pump. So that when you are putting it all back together you don't overly stress the piston and potentially bend it.
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I think it is good practice but personally, I found it a bit of a hassle and had difficulty in seeing the arrows in the lighting conditions that I was working in anyway.
As Carl says, setting TDC it is about reducing tension on the piston spring of the HPFP which is pressed against the cam lobe. Whenever folks talk about TDC, there is some sensitivity because we know how important it is to get this right when adjusting timing. However, this is a much simpler science than timing....
The lobe is a triangular shaped thing with rounded corners if you get my drift. So when a peak of this lobe is pointing at the piston, the spring is compressed. However, if you can imagine the picture, you would be unlucky if the engine stopped with the piston on a 'peak' simply through probability (even a 20 -30 degree rotation from this point in either direction would mean an exponential drop-off in spring tension). Even if you were a bit unlucky, my personal opinion is that it is not so important when taking the HPFP off as long as you undo the three retaining bolts together and a little bit at a time.
OK, putting the pump back on may be a bit more important but by this time you can look through the hole and, with a light to assist if needed, see the cam lobe and see if you are on a peak or a trough. If a peak, simply rock the car in gear (as you would do to find TDC anyway) until the lobe moves to a trough point and stick the HPFP back on (again I would recommend tightening the three bolts a little bit each at a time).
On saying that, I have done this three times now and have not experienced the engine coming to a halt at a high point / peak in the lobe cycle yet.
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Does anyone know of a correct torque figure for the three retaing screw's?
I have a nasty habit of over tightening and stripping/shearing bolts off :ashamed:
A torque wrench is a good friend of mine :smiley:
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I think it is good practice but personally, I found it a bit of a hassle and had difficulty in seeing the arrows in the lighting conditions that I was working in anyway.
As Carl says, setting TDC it is about reducing tension on the piston spring of the HPFP which is pressed against the cam lobe. Whenever folks talk about TDC, there is some sensitivity because we know how important it is to get this right when adjusting timing. However, this is a much simpler science than timing....
The lobe is a triangular shaped thing with rounded corners if you get my drift. So when a peak of this lobe is pointing at the piston, the spring is compressed. However, if you can imagine the picture, you would be unlucky if the engine stopped with the piston on a 'peak' simply through probability (even a 20 -30 degree rotation from this point in either direction would mean an exponential drop-off in spring tension). Even if you were a bit unlucky, my personal opinion is that it is not so important when taking the HPFP off as long as you undo the three retaining bolts together and a little bit at a time.
OK, putting the pump back on may be a bit more important but by this time you can look through the hole and, with a light to assist if needed, see the cam lobe and see if you are on a peak or a trough. If a peak, simply rock the car in gear (as you would do to find TDC anyway) until the lobe moves to a trough point and stick the HPFP back on (again I would recommend tightening the three bolts a little bit each at a time).
On saying that, I have done this three times now and have not experienced the engine coming to a halt at a high point / peak in the lobe cycle yet.
Thank you Muckipup :happy2: Some really good advice there :notworthy: I will be attempting this on Saturday, and you have pretty much put my mind at rest.
Oh and as Cupra R said, what is the recommended torque for the 3 pump bolts? (even though I am sure my torque wrench is too big to be of any use) :ashamed:
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I haven't a clue about the torque to be applied but don't think that you need to worry about it too much. I only used the smallest of the 3 socket wrenches in my set (thus not too much leverage) and just tightened enough to feel comfortable in myself that the HPFP was clamped down enough. You are dealing with long, thin bolts with torx heads so you don't want to go anywhere near the force that would shear the bolt or strip the torx head or leave yourself with an issue when it comes to replacing the cam follower the next time - just 'nice and firm' does it! :happy2:
When you loosen them to take it off, you'll see it doesn't need too much force and will give you an idea of the max. force with which to tighten them.
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I haven't a clue about the torque to be applied but don't think that you need to worry about it too much. I only used the smallest of the 3 socket wrenches in my set (thus not too much leverage) and just tightened enough to feel comfortable in myself that the HPFP was clamped down enough. You are dealing with long, thin bolts with torx heads so you don't want to go anywhere near the force that would shear the bolt or strip the torx head or leave yourself with an issue when it comes to replacing the cam follower the next time - just 'nice and firm' does it! :happy2:
When you loosen them to take it off, you'll see it doesn't need too much force and will give you an idea of the max. force with which to tighten them.
Thanks again Buddy :happy2:
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There is no recommended torque settings that i could find.
I just did then hand tight followed by half a turn and that has always been fine :happy2:
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About to do mine and had a search around the net regarding this issue :surprised:
There is loads of people highly pi**sed about this by the looks of things:
http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=235507629582&v=photos#!/group.php?gid=235507629582&v=photos
For those of you getting your head round this (like me) according to the tech description it is:
"Part of the direct fuel injection design relies on a secondary mechanical high pressure fuel pump.
This is in addition to the lower pressure electric pump in the fuel tank.
The hpfp actuating shaft is driven off of a lobe on the end of the intake cam shaft.
The cam follower covers the hpfp actuator and rides on the cam shaft lobe.
Found on the top front of the engine, under the intake,
easy to find with the metal fuel lines running to and from the bottom of the pump."
Ive got a MY06 with approx 40K.
Anyone with similar year/mileage who has done this? What condition was it in?
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Advice from APR regarding changing the cam follower:
http://www.goapr.com/support/fsi_fuelpump_installation.pdf
Specifically:
"On a periodic basis, around every ten thousand (10,000) miles, APR recommends that you inspect the FSI fuel pump, cam follower, and camshaft in
accordance with the factory TSB for abnormal wear. If any wear appears to have worn through the black wear coating on the cam follower, we recommend that
you replace the cam follower. Once this black coating is worn off, the wear rateof the cam follower and lobe is dramatically increased.
Keeping a good cam follower in the car is critical to the long term operation of your vehicle.
The cam follower and camshaft wear rates on even stock vehicles appears to be increased over what even VW/Audi has anticipated. We predict that VW/Audi will
either supersede these components to increase their longevity or they will begin to include this inspection as a part of the routine maintenance of the vehicle."
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Note if you have to metal pipes under the pump its not as easy (see my other post).
http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,18542.0.html
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I had my follower changed last week, so I thought I'd post some photos up.
Car has done 30k miles, 56 plate, standard map, standard HPFP, 3 dealer services since new.
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fpeter0976%2FOctavia_vRS%2FP1050887.jpg&hash=4bf9b12edb45b573959e29c9f6023f3fc08894f9)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fpeter0976%2FOctavia_vRS%2FP1050897.jpg&hash=8faf3b71097c421f6f53ef804fa8ea9519ae44fd)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fpeter0976%2FOctavia_vRS%2FP1050900.jpg&hash=27580d055a05ee88fc6cdce945e051610f335217)
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Hope this helps some people, found this;
http://www.kmdtuning.com/store/images/Cam%20follower%20instructions(1).pdf
Gives the torque settings to use.
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Great link thanks :happy2: - shame I did not have it when I did mine.
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Will refer to this when I replace mine :happy2:
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just changed mine it was pretty easy, im just paranoid i havnt tightened it all back up enough but didnt want to tighten to much in case i broke somat oh and i forgot about the tdc bit too so hopefully nothings broken anyway mine wasnt bad just the paint had gone
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fsphotos-g.ak.fbcdn.net%2Fhphotos-ak-frc1%2Fp480x480%2F381203_10200381702136739_1200249349_n.jpg&hash=ea89a7a2fd31b8db2c00e80646fc4bb676d7f5d0)
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What method do you guys use for releasing the fuel pressure? Remove a fuse and try and turn over?
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Bleed it with the bleed nipple on side of pump
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Bleed it with the bleed nipple on side of pump
Thanks I just have visions of it being under considerable pressure and having a face full of fuel. Also, do you disconnect the battery just in case?
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I never disconnected battery, removed sensors. Bleed pump. Then slowly undid fuel pipes just make sure you do NOT open doors as you will prime pump
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Warning to anyone with the two metal pipes fittings. Need a M8 spine to remove the 2nd one. I tried with a 17mm and now have a leaky pump :surprised:
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Sorry to hear that Simon, I grabbed a decent Sealey set from ebay. :happy2: Hope you get it sorted mate.
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How the feck do I have a '55 plate GTI and one brass/metal pipe and one rubber!!? Has someone swapped an engine on me?
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Hi mate
I've got a 55 plate gti aswell and it had both metal fittings
one was a 'banjo' fitting and i had no probs doing mine
1/2hr in total
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Hi mate
I've got a 55 plate gti aswell and it had both metal fittings
one was a 'banjo' fitting and i had no probs doing mine
1/2hr in total
Did you have the M8 spline socket to do it mate?
Si
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My technician brother is coming round tonight armed with right tools for the job. Hopefully get it off, cam follower replaced and fitted back together with no leaks.
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Bookmarked for doing mine later
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All sorted and back up and running :happy2:
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Hi mate
I've got a 55 plate gti aswell and it had both metal fittings
one was a 'banjo' fitting and i had no probs doing mine
1/2hr in total
Did you have the M8 spline socket to do it mate?
Si
yeah but a still no prob's
just held it in a 10mm spanner 1/4 turn at a time
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When I did mine, I had no problems with not checking TDC. YMMV
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Changed mine last weekend thanks to the OP's guide, took just under 35 mins :party:
Suppose I had it easier since the LP fuel hose on mine is rubber, however I was quite surprised that almost the whole TC coating was worn from my follower, 2008 GTI @ 50k miles (stage 1):
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fj73%2FjohnFFS%2FIMAG0305_zpsa739ca4e.jpg&hash=df14b024276c0960400db65715ad19c199be58f0)
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fj73%2FjohnFFS%2FIMAG0306_zps4c784060.jpg&hash=cd08acd8b62abf168b0518d3584538c392726511)
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I guess it wouldn't be long before that ^ would be like this:
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhumblemechanic.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2012%2F02%2FCam-follower.jpg&hash=adc69cfa10a81115aec9fdc98dfa9379dc9a9723)
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its much easier than i thought. i was putting it off because it sounded a bit of a procedure but i think people make it out to be harder than it is. Literally put a rag under the valve and press it in with a screw driver, it will spurt out a little bit then keep trickling. No need for the spanner over the spline bit malarky, use this bit on the ebay link. i ordered it last week and it only took 2 days to come. I used a 3" extension and undid it with a ratchet, then a 17mm on the other union and a few bolts on the pump and its off. Its not as daunting as people make out.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121058270390?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121058270390?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)
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I guess it wouldn't be long before that ^ would be like this:
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhumblemechanic.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2012%2F02%2FCam-follower.jpg&hash=adc69cfa10a81115aec9fdc98dfa9379dc9a9723)
Wow, what age of car and mileage did you find that at?
It looks like the nominal thickness of the top face is approx 1mm, it would be interesting to know how quickly the metal is worn once the TC coating has diminished :confused:
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Old link (with torque values) from KMD is no longer available.
Since I changed my cam follower a few days ago... here is the new link. (click) (http://kmdtuning.com/images/uploads/Installation%20Instructions%20of%20KMD%20HPFP%20Kit%20(New%20Design).pdf)
T30 Torx Bolts: 10 Nm (7.3 foot pounds)
Banjo Bolt: 17 Nm (12.5 foot pounds)
Fuel Line Nut: 25 Nm (18.4 foot pounds)
Low Fuel Pressure Sensor (G410): 15 Nm (11 foot pounds)
HTH! :happy2:
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Just changed mine, along with the thrust sensor. Fantastic guide!!!!!!
Reading it and watching this...
it really is easy peasy! :jumpmove:
Thanks once again guys :happy2: :happy2: :happy2: