MK5 Golf GTI
General => Detailing => Topic started by: crashdesk on August 21, 2011, 06:17:48 pm
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Had a friend advise me on products to get to protect and perfect the looks of my new GTI.
Car is Tornado Red with 18" Monza's.
Valet Pro Bilberry wheel cleaner
FinishKare 1000P Hi-Temp Sealant
Autoglym - Instant Tyre Dressing (He said that this is great for the exterior plastics too)
Autoglym - Super Resin Polish
Anyone else use these and what do you think?
C
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AG super resin polish is what i use...i like it.
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I assume it's an either or with the Super Resin and FinishKare 1000P Hi-Temp Sealant? Heard nothing but amazing reviews about the FinishKare 1000P and watched some YouTube vids which backs this up. I think it has the added benefit of UV protection which the AG doesn't. Hate faded paint, especially on red cars :-)
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Had a friend advise me on products to get to protect and perfect the looks of my new GTI.
Car is Tornado Red with 18" Monza's.
Valet Pro Bilberry wheel cleaner
FinishKare 1000P Hi-Temp Sealant
Autoglym - Instant Tyre Dressing (He said that this is great for the exterior plastics too)
Autoglym - Super Resin Polish
Anyone else use these and what do you think?
C
Personally I wouldn'y use the AG Tyre Dressing as its water based so will not last long on tyres.
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Valet Pro Bilberry wheel cleaner
A very good cleaner. Not very strong but means it's not very harsh so very good for regular use and can be diluted to 1:4 to 1:10 and still be effective.
FinishKare 1000P Hi-Temp Sealant
Used this last winter. Very easy to use. If you apply a second coat, wait at least 48 hours before doing so to allow the first coat to fully cure. The effect on my car was like it was wrapped in cling film - very bling bling shiny. Didn't feel it was particularly "warm" but I guess that's subjective. Can also be used on the brake calipers and on the alloys as a wheel sealant.
Autoglym - Instant Tyre Dressing (He said that this is great for the exterior plastics too)
Don't really rate this. I prefer Megs Endurance Tyre Gel and use AG Bumper Care for plastics - see how you fare with AG's version. Again, you may like it.
Autoglym - Super Resin Polish
Proven (on DW) to be one of the best for use by hand. Will be tough work though but very worthwhile.
What other products do you have? Shampoo? Clay? Glass? Applicators? Pads? Microfibres? Brushes? etc - make sure you don't forget them!
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Had a friend advise me on products to get to protect and perfect the looks of my new GTI.
Car is Tornado Red with 18" Monza's.
Valet Pro Bilberry wheel cleaner Good stuff and decent price
FinishKare 1000P Hi-Temp Sealant Never used it so can't comment, always used Poorboys wheel sealant.
Autoglym - Instant Tyre Dressing (He said that this is great for the exterior plastics too) Personally i would recommend Chemical Guys new look trim gel
Autoglym - Super Resin Polish - cheap enough and does the job, not alot more to say about this
Make sure you get yourself some wax otherwise any time spend polishing will be wasted without protecting it in some way.
Anyone else use these and what do you think?
Most importantly its your washing technique(s) that you want to invest time in along with the 2 bucket method, sheepskin washmit and a decent shampoo will see you right.
C
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Was thinking of Sonus Sheepskin Wash Mitt for washing duties.
I thought the FinishKare was the last step in the process, so
Wash (wheels then body)
Super Resin Polish
FinishKare
Do I need to put a wax over the sealant?
Any other recommendations for sponges, mitts, brushes etc?
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Was thinking of Sonus Sheepskin Wash Mitt for washing duties.
I thought the FinishKare was the last step in the process, so
Wash (wheels then body)
Super Resin Polish
FinishKare
Do I need to put a wax over the sealant?
Any other recommendations for sponges, mitts, brushes etc?
Sorry bud I assumed as you were opting for the high temp sealant you were using it on your wheels, hence my previous comment.
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Colinite 845 is worth a mention too. I've been using this on my tornado red for a few year now and it really is special in my opinion. On my red one the things which made the biggest difference to the overall look was the claying AND a good glaze. The Lusso Creme or Prima Amigo would be my choice as I've used both and both are spot on. The Amigo would probably negate the need for the SRP but its good at masking the swirls and looks superb.
A million and one products and combinations to be honest but the above are what I have found to be the best on the red throughout the years.
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Was thinking of Sonus Sheepskin Wash Mitt for washing duties.
I thought the FinishKare was the last step in the process, so
Wash (wheels then body)
Super Resin Polish
FinishKare
Do I need to put a wax over the sealant?
Any other recommendations for sponges, mitts, brushes etc?
wash, polish, glaze, sealant, wax.
i use collinite wax and poorboys glaze for light cars. i think i need some advice on using either the glaze or wax as it wasn't as deep as i thought it might be.
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Was thinking of Sonus Sheepskin Wash Mitt for washing duties.
I thought the FinishKare was the last step in the process, so
Wash (wheels then body)
Super Resin Polish
FinishKare
Do I need to put a wax over the sealant?
Any other recommendations for sponges, mitts, brushes etc?
wash, polish, glaze, sealant, wax.
i use collinite wax and poorboys glaze for light cars. i think i need some advice on using either the glaze or wax as it wasn't as deep as i thought it might be.
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i know all the processes are important, but is it the glaze part of the process that really gives the deep shine? i dont use a machine polisher, all by hand...is there any different way of doing it if not using a machine?
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One of the Pro's or Stealth will likely know more than me but if I'm applying it by hand then I usually wash with APC (EDIT: Diluted APC), wipe down with IPA and then apply the glaze in vertical strokes followed by horizontal and then diagonal. That way the fillers get right into the swirls etc and keep working it until its nearly vanished or has begun to haze over. Then lightly remove with a good microfibre cloth and buff it up. Seal the goodness in with a couple of coats of wax/sealant.
A good glaze should help with that deep, glossy finish but only if the paint is prepared right but for that real depth I think you need a machine.
Have you clayed the car?
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never clayed it but will be doing next weekend all being well. thanks for the advice.
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As above, wash and then clay the car to remove bonded contaminants. SRP is a bit of an all-in-one product. It's good by hand because it has lots of filling ability, so rather than abrading away the mark, it fills it.
I'd be careful with what I'd apply on top as you risk pulling out the fillers. Lots of glazes have cleansers which would undo your hard work. If you really want a glaze, clearkote yellow cream wax is good - despite the name, it's still a glaze. Otherwise I'd skip it and move straight to sealant. A wax on top is up to you. Some consider it overkill, others just enjoy applyig a wax for the sake of it. I wouldn't bother unless in winter, when you might not wash and top up as frequently, so wax adds that extra sacrificial layer.
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One of the Pro's or Stealth will likely know more than me but if I'm applying it by hand then I usually wash with APC, wipe down with IPA and then apply the glaze in vertical strokes followed by horizontal and then diagonal. That way the fillers get right into the swirls etc and keep working it until its nearly vanished or has begun to haze over. Then lightly remove with a good microfibre cloth and buff it up. Seal the goodness in with a couple of coats of wax/sealant.
A good glaze should help with that deep, glossy finish but only if the paint is prepared right but for that real depth I think you need a machine.
Have you clayed the car?
Did you mean to put this??? APC as in All Purpose cleaner? it wouldnt be the best thing to use, a good Ph Balanced Shampoo is what you would be best off using. Unless you meant you use some of this when snow foaming?
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One of the Pro's or Stealth will likely know more than me but if I'm applying it by hand then I usually wash with APC, wipe down with IPA and then apply the glaze in vertical strokes followed by horizontal and then diagonal. That way the fillers get right into the swirls etc and keep working it until its nearly vanished or has begun to haze over. Then lightly remove with a good microfibre cloth and buff it up. Seal the goodness in with a couple of coats of wax/sealant.
A good glaze should help with that deep, glossy finish but only if the paint is prepared right but for that real depth I think you need a machine.
Have you clayed the car?
Did you mean to put this??? APC as in All Purpose cleaner? it wouldnt be the best thing to use, a good Ph Balanced Shampoo is what you would be best off using. Unless you meant you use some of this when snow foaming?
I don't have the ability to snow foam mate but yes I meant to put it. I only use a salt free all purpose cleaner (Stardrops), diluted of course, as it removes the vast majority of the old wax etc and helps get the paintwork ready for the glaze to be applied. Most shampoos that I have come across don't remove the old wax or not all of it anyway. It works for me :happy2:
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I use something like Lime Prime which helps remove old wax as well as prep the paintwork for fresh wax.
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@Boothy Never even thought of asking what people use on certain colours of cars. From what I've read certain products do indeed help bring out the best in certain paints/colours. Since mine is Tornado Red it's good to know that those products work well.
Do you think you could get away with not using a clay bar as the SRP should do a good enough job?
Also, I have black side skirts and rear bumper. What's the best way to avoid getting wax on these parts as from what I have read, it tends to make it go white. Also, even if I do avoid getting wax on these areas during the final stages, will the wax, over time, through heavy rain etc get onto the trim and ruin it? Over thinking this a bit but want to keep car in best nick.
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Just get as close as you can mate or buy a roll of masking tape and tape up the edge of the bumpers etc. If you do get some on there it will go white but it can be removed with some rubbing alcohol and a stiff toothbrush.
Once the wax is on, its on and will fade with time but wont run or anything. It will only go where you put it bud.
The Srp will not remove the bonded contaminants which is what clay is designed to do. Its well worth the extra effort to clay and it makes a big difference to the finish as far as I'm concerned. It will take the overall finish to the next level.
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Perfect. Thanks Boothy!
Just thought of one other thing. Does anyone use special window screen stuff to make the rain bead off?
Here's what I have to buy at this point. Please keep me right.
Valet Pro Bilberry wheel cleaner
1. Need recommandation for good cheap, ph neutral shampoo
2. Autoglym - Instant Tyre Dressing (He said that this is great for the exterior plastics too)
3. Need recommendation for clay bar
3. Autoglym - Super Resin Polish
4. Autoglym - Bumper Care for plastics
5. FinishKare 1000P Hi-Temp Sealant (No Wax, just sealant)
Thanks for all the tips!
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Basically whilst i don't want to spend an absolute fortune on detailing my car i don't look at cheap i look at what comes recommended. So i've read a load of threads where people will honestly chat about the success they've had with a product and also had recommendations from Stealth (thanks - top bloke :congrats:) when i've been asking a load of noob questions.
The way i see it, it's worth investing in caring for your car :happy2:
Anyhow to be of some use to your original question for shampooing i'd recommend the following:
* 2 buckets
* 2 Lambs wool wash mits (cost about a tenner each)
* grit guard
* Megs #62 Mirror Glaze Professional Car Wash shampoo
* A plush drying towel
- use the 2 bucket method to wash your car. Use the 2 lambs wool wash mits, one does the roof, bonnet, rear flat panel, and top halves of the doors. The other mit washes the bottom halves of the doors, the front/splitter and rear boot lip :happy2:
Results from using this stuff are great, I definitely recommend it :party:
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Ta Frenzy. Much appreciated. They are on the shopping list too now. Getting expensive but I'm sure they'll last. :-)
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Just thought of one other thing. Does anyone use special window screen stuff to make the rain bead off?
Rain-X from halfrauds is enough for most people but you can also get carlack glass sealant which does a better job.
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One of the Pro's or Stealth will likely know more than me but if I'm applying it by hand then I usually wash with APC, wipe down with IPA and then apply the glaze in vertical strokes followed by horizontal and then diagonal. That way the fillers get right into the swirls etc and keep working it until its nearly vanished or has begun to haze over. Then lightly remove with a good microfibre cloth and buff it up. Seal the goodness in with a couple of coats of wax/sealant.
A good glaze should help with that deep, glossy finish but only if the paint is prepared right but for that real depth I think you need a machine.
Have you clayed the car?
Did you mean to put this??? APC as in All Purpose cleaner? it wouldnt be the best thing to use, a good Ph Balanced Shampoo is what you would be best off using. Unless you meant you use some of this when snow foaming?
I don't have the ability to snow foam mate but yes I meant to put it. I only use a salt free all purpose cleaner (Stardrops), diluted of course, as it removes the vast majority of the old wax etc and helps get the paintwork ready for the glaze to be applied. Most shampoos that I have come across don't remove the old wax or not all of it anyway. It works for me :happy2:
This isn't what the shampoo is designed for buddy, your best bet would simply be to add a little APC to your shampoo mix. this way you get a nice foamy mix with the added benefit of a little more washing/cleaning oompf from the APC as well as helping to strip previously applied protection.
The soapier/foamier the wash mix the better. Granted the APC will have toughly cleaning properties however mixed with a nice lambs wool mitt it won't make for a safe washing technique.
Even if you haven't got a snow foam lance I would still suggest putting a splash of shampoo and a splash of APC in a bucket, add some hot water then whack the pressure washer in there to get it all nice and bubbly.
Then chuck this mix over the car, almost like a 'by hand' version of the snow foaming.
Then pressure wash off, don't forget that the cleaner you can get the paintwork before you actually have to apply a mitt the better.
Sorry to waffle on and please don't think I'm trying to 'teach grandma to Suck eggs' but it could be useful for others that are new to in depth washing of their vehicles.
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Unfortunately I don't have a pressure washer or even a hose at my home address but I get where yiur coming from. The APC I use for removing old wax etc is basically a salt free fairy washing up liquid so it does foam up very nicely,on a par with a good shampoo anyway. Its just good at removing old crap without claying etc so its faster and to be honest I only do that rarely. Doing that is what I have to do with car shampoo on a regular basis which isn't the best I know but its the best of a bad job due to location. I try minimise the damage with lots of rinsing with a watering can before hand and nice light pressure with multiple buckets and wash mits.
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More good advice. Thanks.
Regarding the rubber trim arounf windows etc. How do you guys stop the sealant/wax from going onto it? Do you just do it slowly/carefully?
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One thing you can try is to protect the trim so that it's easier to wipe the wax off.
I tend to do the trim last and means going over them with a triple duty brush and some apc. Takes off any wac residue.
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One thing you can try is to protect the trim so that it's easier to wipe the wax off.
I tend to do the trim last and means going over them with a triple duty brush and some apc. Takes off any wac residue.
To be honest its Polishes that you really want to try keeping off any rubber/plastic, with regards to Waxes and Sealants its not too bad. Just give them a wipe after you have waxed/sealed.
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+1 - I've never really found waxes to be much of an issue in staining plastics. What I hate though is when the wax cures and you can see the white residue in crevices.
Managed to get some detailing sticks off ebay for this, which help immensely/
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^^^ Its always benificial to go round the whole car looking in all crevices/gaps etc and wipe clean, saves any disappointment later in the week when you notice it
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TBH I find it difficult until the wax has fully cured and this can be 24-48 hrs later.
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As my car is outside 24hrs a day will the rain affect the curing process?
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As my car is outside 24hrs a day will the rain affect the curing process?
You don't want to be applying wax in the rain but aslong as you have applied/removed in the dry then you will be fine, its no real bother if it rains shortly after.
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On another note. I have never waxed before. How long does wax generally last? Do you have to wash off old wax before applying new?
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Waxing depends on how the old wax is doing. Most usually need a top up every four or five weeks. You can tell by the beading - if it starts to flatten a bit, it's time for topping up. Provided it's the same wax, a good wash, dry and then can just apply a single coat of wax. Don't need to remove old wax unless you're polishing/applying a new sealant/wax.
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Perfect. Well, when I say wax I mean sealant. :-)
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Sealant will last longer, maybe 3-4 months but as above, look at the beading.
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i used a clay bar for the first time yesterday. what a difference that made. the result just after claying looked like most of my cars have done after a proper polish! it was a lot smoother also...just washing and claying took 3 hours! i used valet pro citrus bling which smells wonderful! certainly had to be careful as a lot of lubrication was needed, found it was easy to use a cloth loaded with the lube and water mix concurrently with the bar. how often should claying take place, in the reality of busy lives!
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Every time you polish - so twice a year is more than fine.
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Okay, so it's on to claying. I'm by no means a cheap skate but I do like to keep my costs down without compromising too much quality, if any. If I purchase a clay bar, will I have to buy a spray as a lube or can you clay when the shampoo is on the car?
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There is a Bilthamer clay that you can use water for lube but not sure which off the top of my head.
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Bilt Hamber Auto clay uses water as lube.
You can use quick detailer as lube if you want. I'm using Dodo Born Slippy. Can buy it in concentrate and dilute down.
Remember, you're not claying more than 2-3 times a year, so you shouldn't need gallons of the stuff.
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can a quick detailer be used over a final coat of wax or is there no benefit in this?
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can a quick detailer be used over a final coat of wax or is there no benefit in this?
Yep. I use the QD to give it a quick wipe down after the cars been dried off to give that little extra finish. I've just been trialing a QD for a company called Maxolen and although its not suited as a lube, its one of the best products I have ever used for a final wipe down. Really slick wet look finish.
http://www.lokateuk.com/wax.html
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Tops up the shine. Most have carnauba or somethig else to help bring the shine out. I use it after a routine wash and dry every week or two, in between coats of wax.
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I can now heartily recommend Valet Pro Bilberry Wheel Cleaner and Poorboys Wheel Sealant. The Bilberry is a very effective cleaner and leaves a good shine. The Poorboys sealant is to die for - easy to apply and easy to buff off producing a gloss which nearly made me do a sex wee :ashamed:
For best results apply a couple of coats.
VERDICT: YOU OWE IT TO YOURSELF & YOUR MOTOR TO HAVE THESE PRODUCTS IN YOUR LIFE :drinking:
I also used some Poorboys Natural Look Dressing on the exterior plastics - side skirts, rear bumper, front splitter and trim, grill & honeycombs around the fogs and finally the bits of plastic around the wing mirrors. Now my plastic bits ( :surprised:) weren't suffering too badly anyhow, maybe a wee bit tired, but this product did seem to make them look a bit more alive than they were previously. What you don't get is that wet look, but a wet look was not what i was aiming for anyhow. I'd describe the effect as basically looking akin to how the plastic was at new, however what will be the true test of this product is how long it lasts for. VERDICT: PENDING :popcornsoda:
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The wet look depends on whether you let the product "soak in" or buff off. But wholeheartedly agree with the three products - I use the same! One day, I will eat that wheel sealant! It's like mousse!