MK5 Golf GTI
General => Detailing => Topic started by: Johnny_tro on October 14, 2011, 11:43:43 pm
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Look at some Mag's footage showing how to remove swirls < they make it look easy by hand, from experience this is a back breaking job?? you really need a machine yes?
Machine < if used wrong can these cause more damage than good?
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Dual action polishers are safer than rotaries as the heat doesn't build up as quick. Search youtube for Junkman's tutorial videos, the guy's a legend!
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:happy2: this guy >>
is the secret in the products? a good quality cutter/paste?
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The secret is in the technique! There are guides in this section and I've pointed a few links to detailing world. They have a great guide to polishing.
Machine will always be better than hand, but if going by hand, use Autoglym SRP.
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The secret is in the technique! There are guides in this section and I've pointed a few links to detailing world. They have a great guide to polishing.
Machine will always be better than hand, but if going by hand, use Autoglym SRP.
I have some really anoying swirl marks that need attention. Marks that were inflicted on the car by the previous owner. I've tried Autoglym SRP by hand (very hard work) and to an extent it did work , but some are still visible.
Im now looking into buying a DA . As stealthwolf says there are plenty of great guides on Detailing world and youtube to help.
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Totally < been looking and reading and when you get into it you really open a can or worms lol
For correction/correcting < there are sooo many products with different impacts, almost like using wet/dry technicque. Just getting the right one (abrassive-ness) for your paint.
or do you guys stick with a simple basic polish?
DA polisher < this seems to be the only TRUE way of impacting bad paint. OTherwise it's hour + on each panel by hand.
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Again, you need to look at the detailing world guides. You're meant to assess the paint and go with the least abrasive pad and polish combo that will remove most of the swirls. This means trial and error. Also means spending for a polishing starter set. For the hassle and struggle, as I said above, you can get someone professional to do it and it'll be easier for you to maintain.
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Totally agree.
Would you say correction < one off?
then its a simple case, wash, polish and wax to protect..........as often as possible to maintain?
Do you mannually polish and wax? or do you have a DA?
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I wouldn't say correction is a one off. It needs it as often as it needs it.
TBH a correction isn't cheap - you're looking around £300-600 because of the amount of hours involved. An enhancement would take out maybe 70-80% of the swirls but this depends on the original paintwork.
Once you've had the car detailed, you don't need to polish. It shouldn't be done more than 2-3 times a year. Get it detailed, then all you need to do is a weekly wash, dry and go over with quick detailer to keep the shine up, or a new coat of wax every few weeks/months to keep it topped up.
I have a D/A - bought a Megs G220 with 3M pads and menzerna polish. Will be trying out the Hex-Logic pads once my work stuff is complete.
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Whats your paint like overall?
have you had any major detailing done?
Reason < your going to try out Hex-logic pads....do you not risk making it worse, not better?
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Why would I make it worse?
I know how to use a machine polisher but at the mo don't have much of a space to get the car done all in one go, which is why I've used midlands detailing in the past.
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Trialing products < esp if your paint is in tip top condition? do you not stick with a proven method?
From what I have learnt, my prosses would be
1) jet wash
2) Snow foam
3) two bucket wash
4) rinse
5) Clay
6) rinse
7) dry
8) Polish
9) Wax/Protect
What you think?
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I think you need to insert another rinse step inbetween steps 2 and 3 - to rinse off any dirt that the foam has managed to loosen from the paintwork. Although I'm no expert! All IMHO! :happy2:
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Updated.........
From what I have learnt, my prosses would be
1 Jet wash
2 Snow foam
3 Jet wash
3 two bucket wash
4 rinse
5 Clay
6 rinse
7 dry
8 Polish
9 Wax/Protect
What you think?
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There's no problem with trialling products. It's part of what detailing is about.
1 Jet wash
Not everyone rinses the car first. Some believe that it helps loosen the first. Others think it means the snow foam doesn't work as effectively. FWIW I tend to snowfoam a dry car.
2 Snow foam
3 Jet wash
3 two bucket wash
4 rinse
Up to this point can be used for regular maintenance washes. In which case, I'd recommend sheeting the water (ie open ended hose, no nozzle etc) as it'll help speed up drying.
Before claying, I'd add in a de-tar process - to remove any tar stuck to the car. This stops the clay picking up the tar and rubbing it around. Auoglym do a tar and glue remover, but my fave is Tardis.
5 Clay
6 rinse
7 dry
8 Polish
Remember. there will be polish residue at this point, depending on the polish used. If you're using Autoglym SRP, then move straight on to wax. If you're machine polishing, I'd probably wash and dry the car again, and then probably add in a glaze/paintwork cleanser.
9 Wax/Protect
Good for paintwork, but you've missed out: wheels, tyres. glass. door sills/shuts, plastic trim, exhaust.
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wheels, tyres. glass. door sills/shuts, plastic trim, exhaust
Wheels < I generally stick with soapy water. generally my wheels are cleaned and sealed and washed regualr. Don't have any need for wonder wheels etc.
Glass < always used Autoglym glass polish. I love it!!
sills/shurts < I tend to wash these during the bucket stage
Plastic trim < guessing (IMO) I would just use a product trim restorer once washed and dried ?
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Glass polish is okay but I find it can leave a dusty residue if you use a tad too much. But I'd definitely use a dedicated glass cleaning cloth to buff the glass with afterwards.
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easier, can you just put a quick step process to what you do buddy?
nice programe I can follow? then I will look into the products for these steps
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Essentially as you've outlined it above. Everyone does it in different ways, so it's up to you to find what works best for you.
TBH I cheat. Because of time and space constraints, I'll often divide up the detail so it takes me a few weekends to do. Some people like to tackle wheels first. I do them the weekend before I tackle the paintwork. I then usually do plastic trim and windows the following weekend as by that point, you can see all of the dried wax residue. Interior gets done the weekend after. Exhaust gets done at some point during the week.
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Interior < think I got spot on. Just need to get a nice sealer (as recommended earlier)
APC it all and have a carpet wet and dry cleaner for the carpets which keeps the mint.
Just need to build my exterior products and accessories
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As a very rough guide on the correction side....
My Black GTI was covered in swirls when I bought it in March this year, after the necessary prep I have enhanced the paint up to this point so 90% of swirls removed with some deeper marks remaining.
To do this I have used:
DA polisher (DAS6-Pro)
Yellow Lake Country compounding pad with Menzerna Fast Gloss, followed by:
Green Lake Country polishing pad with Menzerna Intensive Polish 3.02, followed by:
White Lake Country polishing pad with Menzerna Final Finish
Sealant/wax wise I used Auto Finesse Rejuvinate to cleanse the paint so the wax could bond properly, then waxed with Swissvax Best of Show.
Above will be stripped off shortly, then the Blackfire package applied (Gloss Enhancing Polish to cleanse, Wet Diamond Sealant finishing with Midnight Sun Wax).
At some point I will go for full correction with my rotary, when time allows :wink: