MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: heavyd on November 03, 2011, 02:04:02 am
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Hello folks, just as title says really?
Supposed to be getting car back in a couple of days after new rings and bores honed, valve guides etc etc.
I read various google searches about this, and general concensus is no more than 3000rpm for first 1000 miles or so :surprised:
Is this generally the rule, as it sounds a bit torturous :confused:
I've never taken any note or running in engines, as brand new cars at work get run straight up to 70mph about 3minutes after theyve been started up for the very first time on the roller booth :popcornsoda:
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there are lots of methods of running in ,I chosed the hardest one ,when it got to working temp (water/oil) WOTit when got a chance,driven like it normal every day ,25000 km later it still drives with out any problem :happy2:
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This is how I run engines ive built in:
Using Millers running in oil, run the car to operating temp, then allow to cool. First 5 mins are run at 1500 rpm to circulate the oil through the turbo etc.
Next warm the car up and drive for 20 miles. Give the car full throttle, but only rev to the peak torque area. Do this through all gears. Just run actuator pressure. Drop oil and filter the fill with fresh running in oil.
Run in the engine for the next 300 to 400 miles driving it hard, but still on actuator pressure. Drop oil and fill with fully synthetic comp oil. Up the boost and enjoy.
Also see this thread: http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=296003
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Thanks for tips :happy2:
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As Alex says, use a running in oil (full mineral is ideal) and don't run it in softly, this can cause the bores to 'glaze'
Theres a really good guide somewhere, will see if I can find it for you Dom.
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So those people who buy a new car and pussy foot around for 1000 miles might actually have and adverse effect on the engine?
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The methods used to build a brand new engine at the factory (namely the hone on the bore) can be very different to the methods used during aftermarket rebuilding.
Different types of hone require different running in methods. Everything from the grade of hone to the angle of the hone will affect the engines running in process, typically a 45degree hone is used during rebuilding.
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Here you go dom, found it :happy2:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
This was given to me by an ex F1 engineer that now works in indy cars about 6 years ago as a book, its now online. I have used the methods on 20-30 engines and always had success using this guide. Obviously race engines differ to road engines but the principals are the same, a lot of it applies to dyno running in but the road principals are tbe same. Its easier on the dyno as you can hook up AFR, oil temp and pressure, exhaust temps etc... but you are experienced with vagcom so you know how to monitor all of these.
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My vRS got driven up to 6k rpm but with very little load right from day 1. Increasing the load as the miles increased until I was just driving it normally.
I just made sure the oil was hot and the car fully warm. Hasn't used a drop since. :smiley: