MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: heavyd on March 04, 2012, 07:33:43 pm
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A mates of mine has this problem with one of his keys in his mkv gti.
He's tried changed the battery in the fob, the key starts the car ok, but the lock and unlock buttons don't work.
Will he need the dealers to do a £75 reprogram, or is there any other way of sorting it out?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions :happy2:
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+1 mine started playing up last week. can lock and boot pop, but can't unlock :surprised:
haven't tried a new battery as yet but will get round to it soon.
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heavyd - if you have VCDS you could try re-syncing it to the CCM (by clearing all remotes then re-adding them). There was a manual procedure on here lately to do this, but can't recall who posted it right now (may have been apples12?).
Could be something like buttons were pressed too many times out of range.
I had the same issue a few months back and ended up buying a used remote in replacement as I couldn't get my fob to sync.
mvb12 - seems like your problem is different, and you maybe have a physical problem with your buttons unless your fob LED lights up when you press unlock?
Changing the battery is always a good start for these problems.
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wont need dealer to do a reprogram...
tell him to sit in the car, lock the door using the button on the door
insert the key into the ignition and turn the IGNITION on only... press the unlock button about 8-10 times, then press the unlock button 8-10 times too.
remove the key and try locking/unlocking it should work...
worked on my mates mk5...no need to go to dealer! its something to do with only having 40seconds to change the battery!
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Just had a play with my keys and no lights come on when i press either of the buttoms... so hopefuly it is the battery which is on the way out.
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Thanks for info. Lad reckons it still doesn't work. So must need dealer recoding or a new fob. If the immobiliser works, it must be the fob at fault?
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if after changing the battery the little red light still doesnt flash, then its the lower remote part which is faulty...
if you purchase a used remote off ebay, you can replace the lower part (the bit with the buttons on it) and attach the top part (the key bit with the all important immobilizer chip and key) from your original key
once you've got a used 'working' remote with which the red light lights up when you press the buttons then you can code it to your car using the method i detailed above or using vcds... the dealer will want to charge you an arm and a leg and spin you the line that you can only replace the entire key and not only the lower portion!
MVB12 - when you change the battery try to be as quick as you can about it! i suggest you have small 'jewellers'/watch flat screwdriver handy to pop the old battery out, i was told by the vw service guy that the remotes have 40seconds within which the battery must be changed otherwise they need recoding...
good luck chaps :happy2:
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cheers apples,
Will advice once i get round to it.
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battery changed, problem solved!
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The correct procedure to relearn a remote is as follows -
Using a spare key switch the ignition on.
Insert the key to be programmed into the driver's door lock.
Manually lock the driver's door using the key.
Press the Lock or Unlock button on the fob once.
Wait for a least one second.
Press the Lock or Unlock button on the fob twice.
The vehicle horn will sound to indicate correct programming.
Can be found on my website - http://octavia-vrs.com/cms/content/key-immo-coding
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The correct procedure to relearn a remote is as follows -
Using a spare key switch the ignition on.
Insert the key to be programmed into the driver's door lock.
Manually lock the driver's door using the key.
Press the Lock or Unlock button on the fob once.
Wait for a least one second.
Press the Lock or Unlock button on the fob twice.
The vehicle horn will sound to indicate correct programming.
Can be found on my website - http://octavia-vrs.com/cms/content/key-immo-coding
And if that doesn't work????????? :confused:
I'm sure(ish) that it has worked, and I've put in a new battery.
Car is a 2005 Gti.
TonyZ
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Has it worked?
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Has it worked?
No! :sad1:
I keep trying all the variations without luck, so I'm at a loss. I'll have another go at the weekend.
TonyZ
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No! :sad1:
I keep trying all the variations without luck, so I'm at a loss. I'll have another go at the weekend.
TonyZ
I replaced a fob a few months back, one of mine suddenly stopped working even although the LED lights up and a new battery was put in - still nothing.
Have tried the procedures and also to re-adapt it to the CCM in VCDS - I think some fobs just die.
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My fob lost its code, the LED was staying on when i pressed lock and flickered when i hit unlock / boot.
Did the procedure above, Key in ign lock/unlock 10 times and boom works...!!!!!
Well done & Thankyou
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Google brought me here, even though I'm a member (insert your own joke about me being a member for not remembering :) ) - please excuse exhuming the old thread but I thought it would be best to post in here.
This morning my fob will lock the car and unlock the boot but not the car - ARGHHH!!!
Key still works in the lock so I can get back in.
Using this video I took the remote apart to check the battery but it's OK?
Then I realise the circuit board is only secured by one of the two plastic pegs that hold it down and the board can be prised up - which lets me check the unlock microswitch still clicks.
I put it back together and discover the "lock" and "boot" release buttons click but the "unlock" one doesn't click.
So the button is moving the board into the fob rather than clicking the microswitch.
I opened it up again and I've cut the end off a cotton bud (nonconductive, compressible, sterile) and placed it over the end of the board next to the damaged plastic peg. Put it back together and checked - all the buttons click and I can see the car locking/unlocking out the window.
Seems to me that the fob has a weak spot in the design, press too hard or too often on the "unlock" button and you'll push the circuit board off the peg.
Hopefully this 1p fix will save someone from having to buy a new fob and reprogram it if their fob is just worn.
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Google brought me here, even though I'm a member (insert your own joke about me being a member for not remembering :) ) - please excuse exhuming the old thread but I thought it would be best to post in here.
This morning my fob will lock the car and unlock the boot but not the car - ARGHHH!!!
Key still works in the lock so I can get back in.
Using this video I took the remote apart to check the battery but it's OK?
Then I realise the circuit board is only secured by one of the two plastic pegs that hold it down and the board can be prised up - which lets me check the unlock microswitch still clicks.
I put it back together and discover the "lock" and "boot" release buttons click but the "unlock" one doesn't click.
So the button is moving the board into the fob rather than clicking the microswitch.
I opened it up again and I've cut the end off a cotton bud (nonconductive, compressible, sterile) and placed it over the end of the board next to the damaged plastic peg. Put it back together and checked - all the buttons click and I can see the car locking/unlocking out the window.
Seems to me that the fob has a weak spot in the design, press too hard or too often on the "unlock" button and you'll push the circuit board off the peg.
Hopefully this 1p fix will save someone from having to buy a new fob and reprogram it if their fob is just worn.
You absolute star. I just did this and fixed mine :-). Thank you
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Saw this too late, just spent £200 at the stealers for 2 new key internals :(