MK5 Golf GTI
General => Detailing => Topic started by: Mk5 GTian on March 10, 2012, 09:10:18 pm
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:confused:
So far I've just used Megs Ultimate wash and wax, followed by blue Turtle wax polish, and no sealant. :ashamed:
I want to start doing things properly, so I'm ordering Purple Haze Pro for my Shadow blue, and Jetseal 109 sealant.
What should I use as polish in combo with these, and should I glaze before waxing, and if so, what glaze product should I use?
Thanks,
Ian.
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Do you have a machine polisher, or are you doing it by hand. You don't need to Polish that often.
Poor boys black hole is an excellent glaze, and pretty cheap. This gets applied before the wax or sealant stage.
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I'm hand-polishing.
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I've used Auto Glym SRP followed by a coating of Collinite 476s to seal it in. It's not the best combo but it's kept mine looking ok.
Looking forward to seeing the results you get on your shadow blue with the Purple Haze :party:
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I've used Auto Glym SRP followed by a coating of Collinite 476s to seal it in. It's not the best combo but it's kept mine looking ok.
Looking forward to seeing the results you get on your shadow blue with the Purple Haze :party:
Just need to know which polish to use after the Purple Haze. I'll do some before and afters. A few others seem to have got on well with it, so let's see!
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I've used Auto Glym SRP followed by a coating of Collinite 476s to seal it in. It's not the best combo but it's kept mine looking ok.
Looking forward to seeing the results you get on your shadow blue with the Purple Haze :party:
Just need to know which polish to use after the Purple Haze. I'll do some before and afters. A few others seem to have got on well with it, so let's see!
Correct me if I'm wrong...I'm not that clued up with dodo juice stuff but isn't purple haze a wax?
If its a wax don't polish after the wax...the wax is a protection and the polish will remove the wax
Polish and prep 1st wax/sealant last
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As said above, Purple Haze is a wax, therefore should be your last step.
Auto Glym Super Resin Polish is good for hand application, and gives good results. It contains fillers that will slightly mask swirl marks. You would then use a glaze after polishing, then seal with your purple haze.
Having a good wax doesn't necessarily mean you will have a nice and shiny car. The end result is all to do with the preparation you do beforehand I.e discontaminating the paint either through claying, deironising and detarring. If you put in the effort in the early stages, you will reap the rewards when you've applied the wax.
Check out the detailing world forum for information.
I plan on doing a paint correction on mine when the decent weather comes round. Mine is still wearing collinite 845 that I applied in October to see me through the winter. Can't wait to get stuck in to it!
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As above, AG SRP is a good hand polish. It has fillers as well as abrasives. For this fact alone, I'd avoid glazes. SRP is a bit of an all-in-one.
Remember that sealants don't bond well to waxes so put the sealant down first.
Polish
Sealant
Wax
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I just use sealants now, waxing is too much hard work and i get a better finish and gloss with polymer sealants.
Im using Zaino Z8 Grande Finale as a top up sealant and quick detailer now. :happy2:
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Brilliant thanks guys. I did say I was still confused! :confused:
So this is my new understanding of stages and proposed products.
Stage Product
Wash Megs shampoo only with no wax or snow foam
Clay Bar to remove paint contaminants Valet pro yellow fine clay
Polish for shine and to fill light scratches Autoglym SRP new formula (no white dust)
Sealant Jetseal 109
Wax Dodo Juice Purple Haze Pro
I'd really appreciate your comments, whether a thumbs up or more suggestions.
Thanks again fellas. :happy2:
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Always use a sealant before a wax as said. Valet Pro yellow fine clay would suit.
Order should be.......
Wheels and arches up first
Bodywork wash
De-tar
Clay
Sheet water over the vehicle with open ended hose to aid drying
Dry the vehicle
Polish with your SRP
Use your jet seal 109
Then apply your purple haze
Dress your tyres etc and clean the glass
This is just a rough guide, I'd get your sell a decent detail spray for after washes. As in my eyes anymore than 2 layers of wax is just a waste. Then re-apply your wax once you noticed its durability is starting to fail.
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+1 for detarring prior to claying
+1 for glass, plastic trims, rubber trim, and tyres. Small details that cannot be overlooked.
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+1 for detarring prior to claying
+1 for glass, plastic trims, rubber trim, and tyres. Small details that cannot be overlooked.
All makes a huge difference.
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Thanks a lot again guys.
How do you de-tar, and what do you use to do it?
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Thanks a lot again guys.
How do you de-tar, and what do you use to do it?
De-tar using Autosmart Tardis avaiable here http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/autosmart-tardis.html (http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/autosmart-tardis.html) or cheaper through an Autosmart rep.
As it's your first time using it, I'd spray it on your car one panel at a time, let it dwell, but not dry out, then wipe over with a microfibre. Rinse each panel down to ensure there is no product left on your car. Then you can follow the remaining steps outlined above.
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You might also find tardis in smaller quantities on eBay instead of 5L's. Some people split it into 1L's with a chemical spray head.
Failing that auto glym intensive tar remover. Not as good but does the job required.
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Thanks Craig, I've already got the Autoglym Intensive tar remover from my FOC kit from signing up for Autocar!
Do you need to do every panel, including the roof?
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Only really the lower panels of the car will have tar, then spot remove any others you find. That's unless you drive it like you stole it, then there may be some of the roof, back window etc. :driver:
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i'd be very careful with tardis, wear some latex gloves x2 pairs ,goggles and a mask for your mouth, don't leave it on too long say 1-2 mins max and wipe it off straight away, and rinse it off
don't worry about polishing.. I didn't bother because to be honest hand polishing is really no where near as good as machine polishing so just make sure the car is clean then protect it with some wax/sealant.
and I don't have a garage to learn/use a machine polisher so that was out the question
I applied FK1000 in October and it's still on! even though I want to do some fresh coats this week this is what I will be doing
billberry the wheels - leave on for 2-3 mins then pressure wash off
pressure wash the car to losen any dirt
snow foam the car with some PH Neutral Snow mixed with a little bit of maxi suds II
leave to dwell for 10-15 mins
Pressure wash off
2 bucket method with a lambswool mitt and maxi suds II as the shampoo doing panel by panel pressure wash off
then use tardis on effected areas leave on for 1-2mins wipe off with a microfibre cloth you don't want, then rinse off untill its all gone
pressure wash again for precaution of the tardis and shampoo the car again
use clay bar with some clay lube go all over the car to get anything you may have missed
shampoo again then rinse
dry the car and use a cleanser I use carlack68 Nano Systematic Care
after that your ready to put your wax/sealant on
I use FK1000 2-3 coats to make sure i've covered the whole car
then I use FinishKare #425 - Ultra Slick Polywipe for that extra slick look
and just the usual bits at the end like glass, wheels, tyres
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don't worry about polishing.. I didn't bother because to be honest hand polishing is really no where near as good as machine polishing so just make sure the car is clean then protect it with some wax/sealant.
and I don't have a garage to learn/use a machine polisher so that was out the question
I'd disagree to an extent with that. Granted you wont see anywhere near the level of correction you would if using a machine polisher, but for the reasons stated above; the polish contains fillers that will slightly mask the swirl marks. If you're not going to use a glaze, I would definitely do the polishing stage, then seal.
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sorry im a perfectionist i'd rather not do somthing if its not going to be 100% thats why I leave out hand polishng :scared:
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sorry im a perfectionist i'd rather not do somthing if its not going to be 100% thats why I leave out hand polishng :scared:
Hand polishing can be very effective if done correctly. Obviously machining is going to be better for defect removal. But not everyone wants or can justify this.
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Having a good wax doesn't necessarily mean you will have a nice and shiny car. The end result is all to do with the preparation you do beforehand I.e discontaminating the paint either through claying, deironising and detarring. If you put in the effort in the early stages, you will reap the rewards when you've applied the wax.
"dis contaminate" your car - seriously?!?!?!?
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+1 for hand polishing. Better than nothing.
clicky (http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=10656) - DW's hand polish test.
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+1 for hand polishing. Better than nothing.
clicky (http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=10656) - DW's hand polish test.
I've had a really good close look at my paintwork this weekend after all the great advice I've been getting, and I reckon there is quite a lot to be corrected, too much to do by hand. So my lovely Mrs is getting me a DA polisher for my birthday next month!
I reckon the DAS-6 Pro will be the one, as other threads suggest this is really good for those who will only be polishing 3 or 4 times a year. So now all I need to know is what is the best polish to use with this? Sorry, you must be getting fed up with this!
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I reckon the DAS-6 Pro will be the one, as other threads suggest this is really good for those who will only be polishing 3 or 4 times a year. So now all I need to know is what is the best polish to use with this? Sorry, you must be getting fed up with this!
I have the DAS-6 Pro, it's a good bit of kit. I would seriously look at the Meguiars MF correction system. Two types of pad and two types of compound. Works well on the hard VW paint. Got the kit coming for mine.
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wish I had a garage to do some machine polishing!! :sad1:
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Don't take this the wrong way at all it's jut a suggestion
And don't feel bad about asking for advice it's what were here for :happy2:
Have you thought about getting the car detailed and then you can jut maintain it? The detailer will be happy to give you advice on products to use and keep topped up and whats involved, may even be worth asking if you could oversee the detail like jonny-tro wants to with me, i like knowing the customer wants to maintain my hard work Seems respectful :smiley:
The above is only if your not 100% sure on what your doing, could be best spending the money on a detail insted of products
Hope this helps and please note I'm trying to scare you and I'm not implying you don't know what your doing as the only way to learn is to try :happy2:
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Thanks a lot Jack, I really appreciate your comments.
The truth is I don't know what I'm doing!
I think your idea is an excellent one, and then I could get the kit together to maintain it. The paintwork does need a lot of polishing, and I reckon it would benefit from a professional detail.
As a decorator, I pick things like this up pretty quickly, so I think with some guidance I could do a good job of maintaining the work of a detailer. It would also be a lot better to learn how to do the different stages without such a lot to achieve.
I will give this some consideration, but I'm still going to buy the products and DAS-6 Pro!
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Thanks a lot Jack, I really appreciate your comments.
The truth is I don't know what I'm doing!
I think your idea is an excellent one, and then I could get the kit together to maintain it. The paintwork does need a lot of polishing, and I reckon it would benefit from a professional detail.
As a decorator, I pick things like this up pretty quickly, so I think with some guidance I could do a good job of maintaining the work of a detailer. It would also be a lot better to learn how to do the different stages without such a lot to achieve.
I will give this some consideration, but I'm still going to buy the products and DAS-6 Pro!
No problem :happy2: