MK5 Golf GTI
General => Random Chat => Topic started by: Mk5 GTian on April 27, 2012, 10:50:56 pm
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I'm a decorator by trade, so If any Forum members have any related issues, problems or want some free advice, please feel free to PM me.
Ian :happy2:
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Where are you based? Am looking for a good decorator at the moment.
Dom
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Guildford Dom.
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OK, I am in Bracknell - will PM you tomorrow when I have a proper Keyboard in front of me :signLOL:
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Ok, no worries :happy2:
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What's the best way to key in Farrow & Ball Estate Emulsion?
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I haven't got a ladder so how do i paint my Fascia board , do they make long handled paint brushes ? :evilgrin:
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What's the best way to key in Farrow & Ball Estate Emulsion?
Take it straight back to Brewers, you've only got to look at Estate emulsion and it marks. Then go to Johstones/Leylands and get their Vinyl Matt made up into F&B equivalent shades. Hey presto, 25 quid off a gallon! If you really must use F&B, use Modern emulsion, which is wipeable and more durable, but still not in the same league as Dulux Diamond Matt. Estate Emulsion gives a special, chalky textured finish, which looks great, but can't be touched in. It's a paint-the-whole-wall-job! Areas of high traffic or houses with pets and children are not really appropriate for Estate Emulsion. Also don't use it in kitchens or bathrooms.
In terms of prep for emulsion, make sure the walls are chemically clean, any cracks have been raked out to a gully, PVA'd and filled with Toupret. When you rub down any filler, take this opportunity to remove any nicky-nacky-noos (old roller fibres or plaster spots). I go over all the walls I paint with a pair of padddles to make sure I take off any slight imperfections, and fill under a halogen light to pick up any dents that need filling. Then give the walls a semi-damp sponging to remove any dust, allow to dry and then paint.
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I haven't got a ladder so how do i paint my Fascia board , do they make long handled paint brushes ? :evilgrin:
Yes, they do actually, you'll find them in the section with the skirting ladders and the skyhooks, opposite the tartan paint. :grin:
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Why do you live so far away, my whole house needs painted and I have no inclination to get started.
Like I've been told at work on occasion - I can paint but I'm no painter!
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Why do you live so far away, my whole house needs painted and I have no inclination to get started.
Like I've been told at work on occasion - I can paint but I'm no painter!
It's really tough if you are doing it yourself in evenings and weekends after work. If I'm doing work at home, I try and take time off and do it as I'd do a normal job.
Take it one room at a time from start to completion, and don't rush or skip any of the prep. Or get a local professional to help you.
Like I said at the top of this thread, if you need any advice or help in terms of what to do, just let me know. :happy2:
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Hi Ian, what is the best gloss to buy that won't yellow within months?
I decorated last year and the crown gloss I used has gone really yellow already.
Any tips as I've got the hall to gloss next, stair spindles ect, we want white with best possible finish!
Thank you. :happy2:
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Hi Ian, what is the best gloss to buy that won't yellow within months?
I decorated last year and the crown gloss I used has gone really yellow already.
Any tips as I've got the hall to gloss next, stair spindles ect, we want white with best possible finish!
Thank you. :happy2:
Great question, my staircase has gone yellow again and it was only done 12 months ago!
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I always use satinwood, no yellowing and easier to use.
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Hi Ian, what is the best gloss to buy that won't yellow within months?
I decorated last year and the crown gloss I used has gone really yellow already.
Any tips as I've got the hall to gloss next, stair spindles ect, we want white with best possible finish!
Thank you. :happy2:
This is a tricky area at the moment. Since the new 2010 VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) regs came in, it seems that oil-based gloss is yellowing a lot quicker than previously. I suspect the VOC that was in prior to 2010 was a chemical that slowed down the yellowing. I've heard that Dulux are putting this back in, but that's just hear-say. it's not just gloss, it's affecting eggshell as well.
The problem occurs mostly in dark areas that don't get UV light. That's why you rarely see it on painted windows. You have two options really. Continue with oil-based paint, (which I do), and I'd recommend Sikkens Rubbol Gloss which is an excellent paint. I've not had problems with this in 2 years of using it in any area. Make sure you also use the Sikkens Rubbol Primer Plus, which is an excellent primer undercoat.
http://www.decoratingwarehouse.co.uk/buy/woodstains/sikkens-woodstains/sikkens-rubbol-az-plus/461
Second option is to use an acrylic or water based paint, but I avoid them like the plague, as it is really difficult to lay it off without leaving brush strokes, and is nowhere near as durable. However, it won't yellow!
Other than make sure the paint is at room temp, do your rads in the summer (as they will yellow really quickly if turned on before the paint has cured fully) and follow the instructions on the tin to the letter and you give yourself the best possible chance of a top finish with no yellowing. Give each coat a light flick off to key with an Oakey fine foam pad between coats :happy2:
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I always use satinwood, no yellowing and easier to use.
^ this :happy2:
I've changed all the glossed wood in the house to satinwood as I much prefer the finish and the lack of oils in the paint prevents it from yellowing, however for my stair spindles and handrail I used a satin white enamel paint as its a bit more hard wearing against knocks etc and you can clean it without worrying about taking any paint off :happy2:
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I always use satinwood, no yellowing and easier to use.
^ this :happy2:
I've changed all the glossed wood in the house to satinwood as I much prefer the finish and the lack of oils in the paint prevents it from yellowing, however for my stair spindles and handrail I used a satin white enamel paint as its a bit more hard wearing against knocks etc and you can clean it without worrying about taking any paint off :happy2:
Is that a non-solvent based satinwood you are using then? Oil-based satinwoods will also yellow. A non-oil based satinwood will not have the same level of durability, and the skirting, architraves and other woodwork that require protecting often take a battering from hoovers, kids, and things being carried through the house. Sikkens Satura is the best Satinwood IMO, and again I've not had any problems with this yellowing prematurely, whilst it is solvent based giving a durable finish.
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Love painting - Hate cleaning brushes, any tips
Also about to paint a bedroom floor white (Scandinavian look) what paint (thinking Farrow & Ball floor paint)
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For oil-based paints buy a Brushmate 4
http://www.decorating-supplies.co.uk/epages/BT3825.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3825/Products/110
Stores up to 4 brushes, keeping them wet so you don't need to worry about them. Just don't forget what paint is on each one! Only about 12-15 quid. It comes with a filter soaked in a chemical which keeps the paint from going off, this lasts about 6 weeks, but I've got them to last 3-4 months by masking the lid of the box to keep it air tight.
When you do come to clean them, a quick soak in white spirit, followed by a heavy working of Fairy Liquid into the bristles to break down the oil in the paint, followed by warm water to wash it away. You usually need to repeat this process at least once until the bristles are squeeky clean. Then give the brush a good rinse under a tap to remove the suds completely. Cleaning is a lot easier with quality synthetic brushes.
For water based paints, just wash them out in water when wet. It takes seconds.
F&B Floor paint is pretty good, but if you want something super-durable, then I'd use Coovar floor paint, which is very good on wooden floors in particular. You'll get double the volume for your money too. :happy2:
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I always use satinwood, no yellowing and easier to use.
^ this :happy2:
I've changed all the glossed wood in the house to satinwood as I much prefer the finish and the lack of oils in the paint prevents it from yellowing, however for my stair spindles and handrail I used a satin white enamel paint as its a bit more hard wearing against knocks etc and you can clean it without worrying about taking any paint off :happy2:
X3 :happy2:
Much easier to use than gloss and i prefer the finish.
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A lot of my clients prefer a satinwood or eggshell finish, but as I mentioned above, If these are oil-based they can still yellow.
Sikkens Satura is my favoured solution for a solvent-based satin finish. I've had no callbacks for yellowing, and it's very durable, with a beautiful finish possible when applied with a good quality synthetic brush (I use Purdy's, the best brushes known to man!).
http://www.decoratingwarehouse.co.uk/buy/woodstains/sikkens-woodstains/sikkens-rubbol-satura-plus/462
Acrylic or waterbased satinwoods don't flatten in the same way that an oil-based product will, and are far less durable to the sort of knocks they are likely to be subjected to. The paint can become quite chalky, and can come away when trying to clean the surface.
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Thanks Ian & for everyone elses input, will give satinwood a go and see how it looks!
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Thanks Ian & for everyone elses input, will give satinwood a go and see how it looks!
No worries. :happy2:
I was talking to the manager in Brewers in Woking yesterday, and they have had absolutely no problems reported with the Sikkens Satura (see above). He told me this is probably due to the fact that Sikkens were on top of the 2010 compliancy back in 2008, so have had a lot longer to get it right as regards yellowing.
If you are going to go for a non-solvent based satinwood, he recommended the Dulux Diamond, as it is very durable, but you won't get a glass smooth finish as you would with an oil-based. I might give this a try though myself next time I have an 'eco-client'!