MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: gigolo456 on May 17, 2012, 12:33:10 pm
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Hi again Folks, i have owned my GTi for 7 years and to my knowledge the DV has never been changed!? I'm having a few mods done over the coming few mths, including a Twintake, TBE and Stage 1 remap (possibly Stage 2), should i upgrade the DV?
Cheers
Andrew
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YES :star:
Well worth doing :happy2: go with a revised OEM one, Rev D (for the TSI engine) seems to be the popular choice
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^^^^ as above, YES.
The latest is D Diverter Valve, part no. 06H 145 710 D and is a piston type one. Original diaphragm Revision ones can be prone to failure with modded cars. Revision D is £53 from the VW Stealers or Awesome GTI website.
:happy2:
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Cheers, what benefits, if any, would this give, or is it more of a preventative tool??
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MC71, hi, you mentioned 'prone to failure with modded cars', can i assume you mean if i stick with my stock DV??
Andrew
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MC71, hi, you mentioned 'prone to failure with modded cars', can i assume you mean if i stick with my stock DV??
Andrew
The Dvs were originally rubber diaphraghm and prone to splitting (causing boost leak and poor running) caused by the heat on ko3 cars (located next to the turbo) or increased boost when tuning
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Cheers Mike.
Ahh, wait a minute, on my recent Service/MOT in Donny, i was told about some 'boost leak', and 'blowing', but nothing too much to worry about, i wonder if these are all linked to the DV!? Could they really have missed this perhaps???
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^^^^ as above, YES.
The latest is D Diverter Valve, part no. 06H 145 710 D and is a piston type one. Can prone to failure with modded cars. Only £53 from the VW Stealers or Awesome GTI website.
:happy2:
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The D is poor by design, IMO it was a revision quickly developed to resolve the rubber seals spliting issues as seen on the early revisions.
1, There is a small .5mm plastic face on the DV mating to the alloy casting on the comp housing, this has to try and hold the boost back which is does to an extent but also bleeds the boot pressure off making the turbo work that bit harder and less efficient.
2, In side the D DV thre is a small soft plastic O ring which seals against the plastic body of the piston, the constant piston movement wears the plastics and allows the boost to bleed of and the turbo to lose efficiency.
I am looking at DVs for other makes and models, I have a DV from a 1.6T DS3 to test which has a thick yellow rubber diaphragm, but for reports from my mate a DS3 tuner he says they have issues with bits braking off the the DV and killing the turbo...
IMHO the G revision valve is the best option for efficiency and performance, I dont know how long it will last but while it is working its doing a far much better job.
I have a k03 turbo to make a test rig up to test the valves back to back, but its just finding time to do it.
Nick
See this thread: http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,47818.0.html
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And just when i thought things couldn't get any more complicated, lol!!?? Is there any quick way to physically see if your DV needs replacing??
Cheers
Andrew
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And just when i thought things couldn't get any more complicated, lol!!?? Is there any quick way to physically see if your DV needs replacing??
Cheers
Andrew
When getting some mods fitted at a very reputable tuners a few months back I was told that if your DV has gone then you'll get a warning light on the dash. Can't remember which warning light (engine I'd imagine) but they seemed very sure about it.
Andy.
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I bought on yesterday, and the dealer told me the D version had been superseded with
06F 145 710 G
£36.
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I bought on yesterday, and the dealer told me the D version had been superseded with
06F 145 710 G
£36.
D is newer than G, believe it or not. G is the original diaphragm type valve
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I bought on yesterday, and the dealer told me the D version had been superseded with
06F 145 710 G
£36.
D is newer than G, believe it or not. G is the original diaphragm type valve
That's poop, he's done be over then! Guess it'll be going back!
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Stick with the 'G' version (see post above from Nick at R Tech) fitting mine this weekend :happy2:
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Any thoughts as to where you can get the G as apparently they aren't manufactured any more??
Cheers
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Moz managed to get one lol
i have one, i didn't think it was worth anything tho so i was gonna bin it bbut someone can have it for postage cost plus £5 that i'll donate to the forum
Edit: mine's a B revision. Not sure what the difference is between them
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Got my 'G' off ebay last night (so it is used but I have been assured it is in full working order!)
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I have a revision c that came off my car after 2k miles. ideal for standard or stage1 if struggling to find a revG
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Any thoughts as to where you can get the G as apparently they aren't manufactured any more??
Cheers
Jabbasport got mine in for me, I am assuming they got it from TPS or VW.
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Going to give this a go on Sunday! Hopefully should make a difference.
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Keep looking on the forum for a G!
FYI - the rev D ISN'T FROM THE TFSI - it's actually from the TSI engine(so probably is newer than the TFSI rev G)
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Took my 'B' version out this evening, has probably been on the car since 2005 as I am going to replace with 'G' version I bought last night.
Glad I did nice little rip:
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fz66%2Fianv5%2FDSC00100.jpg&hash=1a783fec0be798c113f9c9eaa0835778d153cf0d)
No fault lights in car and as far as I knew car was running ok.
This picture shows black areas where rubber is breaking down and about to split:
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fz66%2Fianv5%2FDSC00101.jpg&hash=f126b9bf1a40661fa175a9444118ea4088153bf9)
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Go forge and dont worry again
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Other companies use valves simlar to these the Citroen DS3 1.6T has one that looks identical. and with a nice thick yellow rubber. I am going borrow one from him.
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My G revision lasted the best part of 1 week after my stage 1 remap by Jabba, before it let go - engine warning light and turbo limp!!
Changed it to a D revision from Awesome, and has been fine since! I would never go back to a diaphragm type! Best to go Forge IMO!
EDIT - I might be confused, basically the diaphragm type which came on the car (2005) lasted a week after the remap. The piston type is still going strong!
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Had a G on since i sold my forge before x mas. no issues yet touch wood
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My revision 'D' valve lasted just over 12 months. It looks fine but it will not hold over 16 psi. Presently punishing my old 'B' valve at up to 24psi :happy2:
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At end of day A B C D E F G H I J K ect.... are all going to fail at some point, early ones quicker than the newer ones with tuned engines. Just have a look at D valve and pull it apart you will see.
D valves dont break like the rubber desgins, but they are crap at the job the are meant to do. The G valve seals very well but at end of the day its still a rubber version which could end up splitting.
The way I look at it is if the G valves last 2-3year and only cost £40 then in my eyes thats a good investement to keep changing it if it fails.
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.... And that's why I've got a spare rev. G in the shed :-)))
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At end of day A B C D E F G H I J K ect.... are all going to fail at some point, early ones quicker than the newer ones with tuned engines. Just have a look at D valve and pull it apart you will see.
D valves dont break like the rubber desgins, but they are crap at the job the are meant to do. The G valve seals very well but at end of the day its still a rubber version which could end up splitting.
The way I look at it is if the G valves last 2-3year and only cost £40 then in my eyes thats a good investement to keep changing it if it fails.
Totally agree :happy2:
The only concern I have is as far as I knew my car was running fine (no warning lights, car seemed to be pulling nicely, mpg was good) even though my 'B' version had split!
What should I be looking out for so I know when to change it next time?
I only removed mine because I had seen no evidence of it ever being changed car is a 2005 Model Gti. Luckily I have a 'G' version on its way. Should I always have a spare just in case?
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Your car is never going to break down completely because of it.
You'll notice a loss in boos pressure (if you have a gauge), if not, then a loss in power.
Also a drop in MPG is noticeable.
I have a revision G on order from VW at the moment as i, also, have seen no evidence of it ever having been changed. Besides, for the sake of £35, i'd class it as a consumable and check it with my servicing every year and replace it necessary.
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I had a G in my stage 2 ed30 and swapped it out for a D on the word of others experience with increased boost pressure.
So are we now saying that G is better than D?
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Postman managed to break my DV before it even arrived :sad1:
Managed to get a full refund :jumpmove:
Phoned my local VW dealer and new 'G' version will be ready for collection tomorrow morning :happy2:
So plenty of older versions out there if anyone wants one , also said he could get me a 'D' version.
Happy Days
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I'm just back from my local VW dealer and ordered a revision G DV @ £30+VAT
Revision D version is £45+VAT in case anyone is interested.
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Got a G today from TPS - £33.26 inc VAT.
Comparing it side by side with the Rev D, they seem physically identical aside from the piston / seals. i.e. you could physically swap the moving components.
Rev G seems the same as my old rev c, asides from the plastic shroud that looks to limit the radial expansion of the rubber seal. Shame the orange seal can't be bought seperately.
Changing my rev d for a rev g has seemingly reduced spool time, added no apparent benefit to mid-range, but improved top end. Suggests to me my rev d was allowing some recirculation and causing the turbo to struggle slightly to meet the requested inlet pressure at a higher engine speeds.
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Anyone got the part number for rev G please
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Anyone got the part number for rev G please
06H 145 710 G
see page 1 :happy2:
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Cheers been on the wine , but still don't know how I missed that lol
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Just a quick question. In terms of accessing the valve - last one I had changed was done by a mechanic who had access to putting the car up in the air.
I am about to install a Forge twintake AIK to my car and thinking I should change my valve at the same time. Is it possible to change from the top end rather than from beneath the car?
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Just a quick question. In terms of accessing the valve - last one I had changed was done by a mechanic who had access to putting the car up in the air.
I am about to install a Forge twintake AIK to my car and thinking I should change my valve at the same time. Is it possible to change from the top end rather than from beneath the car?
Have a look on the Forge website for the fitting onstructions for their kits, i believe (i'm a noob to these TFSI/FSI's) that on the ED30 you can as it is a front mounted valve.
GTI's (as per what you have) are different.
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Thanks, I have had a look at their website. As you say I think the location varies depending on engine. My AXX its located at the bottom somewhere.
Ill see if I can reach it once I have taken the air intake pipe off at the top!
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Thanks, I have had a look at their website. As you say I think the location varies depending on engine. My AXX its located at the bottom somewhere.
Ill see if I can reach it once I have taken the air intake pipe off at the top!
Fitting my G today. My Golf is a 2005 and the valve is located on the drivers side of the engine near the bottom. You need to remove the wheel arch liner to get access to it. Car will need jacking up and use AXLE stands for support!
It is awkward to get too and is held on with three bolts which will need screwthread when you put bolts back in to stop them coming loose!
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Thanks, I have had a look at their website. As you say I think the location varies depending on engine. My AXX its located at the bottom somewhere.
Ill see if I can reach it once I have taken the air intake pipe off at the top!
Fitting my G today. My Golf is a 2005 and the valve is located on the drivers side of the engine near the bottom. You need to remove the wheel arch liner to get access to it. Car will need jacking up and use AXLE stands for support!
It is awkward to get too and is held on with three bolts which will need screwthread when you put bolts back in to stop them coming loose!
It's easier than that on a K03. If you've not got a full length undertray you can get to the valve directly from the underside and it's a 5 minute job.