MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: scottm72 on October 08, 2012, 06:09:25 pm
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just out of interest to increase the starting mpg what is the normal engine warm up time from cold, i usually dont allow any warm up time tbh but would be interested if anyone knew
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If it is cold i always let my engine warm up. I never drive off until my revs have dropped. But not to sure when it starts to save mpg but the first recording i get on the display is around 10mpg
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i usually dont allow any warm up time
Your KO3/4 won't thank you for this.
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When my engine (Mk5 GTI K03) first starts up the revs are just over ~1000. I wait for the revs to drop below 1000rpm and for the engine sound to settle before I engage gear. This can take as long as a couple of minutes.
It's kinder to the DSG gearbox and allows fluids to circulate and automatic processes to happen.
I'm not aware of mpg being effected by this at all and wouldn't expect it to be.
Obviously it's also good practice not to use higher revs until at least the temp gauge is centred - Unfortunately the GTI doesn't have an OEM oil temperature gauge.
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i usually dont allow any warm up time
Your KO3/4 won't thank you for this.
dude us noobs out there dont know ehat a K03/4 is, sorry but can you dumb that down :happy2:
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dude us noobs out there dont know ehat a K03/4 is, sorry but can you dumb that down :happy2:
....K03 is the turbocharger which is standard on the Mk5 GTI and K04 is the turbo which is standard (aka OEM) on the Ed30 (Edition 30 Mk5 GTI). :happy2:
Actually, it's the engine as much as the turbo that won't thank you for cold starts without any warm up or revs settling.
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When my engine (Mk5 GTI K03) first starts up the revs are just over ~1000. I wait for the revs to drop below 1000rpm and for the engine sound to settle before I engage gear. This can take as long as a couple of minutes.
It's kinder to the DSG gearbox and allows fluids to circulate and automatic processes to happen.
I'm not aware of mpg being effected by this at all and wouldn't expect it to be.
Obviously it's also good practice not to use higher revs until at least the temp gauge is centred - Unfortunately the GTI doesn't have an OEM oil temperature gauge.
thanks for that rr, im thinking if i drive straight off then the mpg will be worse but yes i guess it would be good practice in general to wait until the rpms reduce on the idle before engaging gear, fluids circulating etc,,,,, btw the temp gauge in my old mk4 took about 10 minutes to centre lol
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dude us noobs out there dont know ehat a K03/4 is, sorry but can you dumb that down :happy2:
....K03 is the turbocharger which is standard on the Mk5 GTI and K04 is the turbo which is standard (aka OEM) on the Ed30 (Edition 30 Mk5 GTI). :happy2:
right got that now, so i will have a K03 ( mk5 gti ) so i guess to be nice wait for the rpm to calm down before driving :happy2:
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When I lived in London a friend of mine had a Ferrari (well, several) and he used to spend literally about 4 minutes warming up the engine. Older technology but the same principles apply. It's completely logical: Going from zero revs and cold fluid temperatures to thousands of revs per minute is not kind to any engine. But most people don't realise or care about this.
I think it's more important than the mpg.
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When I lived in London a friend of mine had a Ferrari (well, several) and he used to spend literally about 4 minutes warming up the engine. Older technology but the same principles apply. It's completely logical: Going from zero revs and cold fluid temperatures to thousands of revs per minute is not kind to any engine. But most people don't realise or care about this.
I think it's more important than the mpg.
yes i agree, thanks for that rr, will do in future
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I tend to drive off almost instantly but I keep the revs to below 2000rpm. IIRC the car's components are designed in the knowledge that they will warm up at different rates and hence keeping the engine at idle for minutes at a time means some parts of a car will heat up more quickly than others and at a different rate to planned.
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I do the same as Stealthwolf. I only have it running for around 10 seconds before setting off sometimes but I keep the revs very low, around 2,000 or less. I just make sure I always let it cool down, sometimes just for 10-20 seconds but if I do this then I'll have already pretty much been running on tick over for the last mile or so n not in boost.
Some people will obviously say that's wrong but it's just the way I do it and I've never had any problems in all the turbo cars I've had :)
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+1 for no boost in the last mile or so of a journey. I normally wait a few seconds before switching off but if I've not been able to drive without boost in the previous mile, I keep the car idling for a little longer.
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I'd love the luxury of even 1 minute to warm an engine first thing in the morning! :laugh:
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increase mpg what is the normal engine warm up time
BUY A DIESEL :signLOL:
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I prefer to wait for my revs to drop after startup - With DSG, it will clunk if you select Reverse before the revs have dropped and i always have to reverse out of my batcave.
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Reset the meter once the engine temp is up to operating.
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I remember reading a technical article about whether to allow the car to idle or not and the pros and cons many years ago written by a very learned technical guru.
His view is not to let the engine idle to warm it up. That is one of the worst things you can do with an engine. The engine runs richer when cold and idling makes it take longer to warm up, all the time the richer mixture is washing the oil off the bores increasing wear. According to tests, over 90% of engine wear occurs on cold startup.
The best way is to get in, drive off and keep the throttle openings small and revs low, without labouring the engine, until there is some temperature in the engine. This is the most effective way of bringing the engine up to temperature, under load.
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I remember reading a technical article about whether to allow the car to idle or not and the pros and cons many years ago written by a very learned technical guru.
His view is not to let the engine idle to warm it up. That is one of the worst things you can do with an engine. The engine runs richer when cold and idling makes it take longer to warm up, all the time the richer mixture is washing the oil off the bores increasing wear. According to tests, over 90% of engine wear occurs on cold startup.
The best way is to get in, drive off and keep the throttle openings small and revs low, without labouring the engine, until there is some temperature in the engine. This is the most effective way of bringing the engine up to temperature, under load.
Exactly the same as I've been told by numerous mechanics. The days of cars requiring a warm up are long gone I believe :happy2:
Theres hundreds of thousands of TFSI's all over the world that get started up and driven straight away on the school run without any failures being recorded.
IIRC the handbook doesn't mention the requirement to warm up the car. :chicken:
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Mpg wise you are suppose to go straight away. Sitting with the engine idle you are doing zero miles to the gallon. Thinking is drive off straight away take it easy. Ideally drive off forwards as reverse uses more petrol ?
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I remember reading a technical article about whether to allow the car to idle or not and the pros and cons many years ago written by a very learned technical guru.
His view is not to let the engine idle to warm it up. That is one of the worst things you can do with an engine. The engine runs richer when cold and idling makes it take longer to warm up, all the time the richer mixture is washing the oil off the bores increasing wear. According to tests, over 90% of engine wear occurs on cold startup.
The best way is to get in, drive off and keep the throttle openings small and revs low, without labouring the engine, until there is some temperature in the engine. This is the most effective way of bringing the engine up to temperature, under load.
An additional effect is that Idling a cold engine can lead to 'borderline lubrication' or in laymans terms areas of the engine do not see sufficient lubrication due to the oil being thicker and flowing less (increased viscosity). This subsequently increases wear rates on components.
Typically engine warm ups for engine development on test beds are carried out at 2000 rpm and around 2 bar bmep (a light engine load) to ensure sufficient lubrication to all parts during warm up.
Whilst having some detrimental effects on the engine borderline lubrication can speed up the break in process should the engine require this for testing purposes. :happy2:
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when i spoke to a few turbo companies with all the problems i was getting with my gttdi-I was told if you leave the car ticking over for to long the oil can get past the seals and start making the oil go through the exhaust
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Oh yes, I knew I'd been doing it right all along!
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Oh dear! Does this mean I have been doing it all wrong for 104,000 miles?
That clunk of the DSG reverse is not an encouraging sound. And what about that very experienced Ferrari driver I used to know who always spent time warming up the engine?
Why is it different for a F1 racing engine? They are always warmed up before engaging gear?
Isn't this why the 2.0T FSI engine starts off at ~1000 rpm and doesn't drop revs for the first moments or two?
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So leaving the car to tick over for 1 min, until the revs drop would be safe?
cause it normally only takes 1 min...
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So leaving the car to tick over for 1 min, until the revs drop would be safe?
cause it normally only takes 1 min...
....Isn't this why the 2.0T FSI engine starts off at ~1000 rpm and doesn't drop revs for the first minute?
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You cant compare a F1 car to a road car... totally different kettle of fish.
Usually... i start the car, put it in Reverse and get the hell on with my journey. :happy2: Life is to short to piss about waiting for ??? to happen on idle!
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Usually... i start the car, put it in Reverse and get the hell on with my journey. :happy2: Life is to short to piss about waiting for ??? to happen on idle!
....But that's a choice you make because of your lifestyle and has absolutely nothing to do with whether it's good or bad for your engine, Rich.
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Usually... i start the car, put it in Reverse and get the hell on with my journey. :happy2: Life is to short to piss about waiting for ??? to happen on idle!
....But that's a choice you make because of your lifestyle and has absolutely nothing to do with whether it's good or bad for your engine, Rich.
I think youll find that 98% of car owners do exactly the same Robin. My car uses zero oil and runs perfectly (.... ive done it now... my car is gonna explode, sh*t its pants and drink all its oil on my next journey)
:signLOL:
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No-one is saying that a car will suddenly explode or have some serious crisis as a result but we are only discussing and questioning which is considered best practice.
98% of car owners drive off immediately without thinking because they don't think about the health of their means of transport and are mentally driven by the idea that they need to be somewhere as soon as possible. In planning any schedule I simply allow extra time for the car's startup.
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True... But I fail to see how waiting X minutes before moving has any benefit on the car.
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Oh dear! Does this mean I have been doing it all wrong for 104,000 miles?
That clunk of the DSG reverse is not an encouraging sound. And what about that very experienced Ferrari driver I used to know who always spent time warming up the engine?
Why is it different for a F1 racing engine? They are always warmed up before engaging gear?
Isn't this why the 2.0T FSI engine starts off at ~1000 rpm and doesn't drop revs for the first moments or two?
rr has a fair point here, logic would dictate that putting any kind of engine under stress straight away is not a good thing but saying that i can understand the other point of view.
im still thinking more along the lines with red robin here but if anyone knows any better then please post it
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Well for a start.. a road car doesn't idle at ~10,000RPM, and rev to 18,000RPM. If I remember correctly... F1 engines are built to such a high tolerance that they are effectively seized when cold.
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Well it takes a min for the automatic choke to stop, i would have asumed that driving straight after that would have been safe and always have done...
As far as im aware, the oil needs a chance to get up round everything that needs to lubed...
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Why is it different for a F1 racing engine? They are always warmed up before engaging gear?
An F1 engine, and almost all very high performance race engines are pre-heated before starting them by pumping pre-heated fluids into them for a period of time before starting them. The engine is literally at operating temperature when it's started. The 'warm up' procedure of an F1 engine is to ensure all systems are fully functional and operating correctly before heading out. In F1 cars, they even do this to the gearboxes.
As previously mentioned, these engines are literally seized when cold due to the tolerances.
I've had one of my previous cars clock up over 300k kms driving from startup with no problems at all and just regular servicing.
Keep in mind, most people have to reverse out of a driveway before heading off. This is more than enough 'idle' time before driving off.
During Winter, my next door neighbour comes out, starts his engine, then goes back inside to have his cuppa before getting in the car after around 15 to 20 minutes of idling. Best way to reduce the life of an engine.
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Point taken about the F1 engines - As richwig has said: They are different.
I only wait for the engine revs to drop and settle as they do automatically after usually less than one minute and without any help from me. I don't go off for a cuppa etc.
As said, if I engage gear on the DSG before the revs have dropped, the DSG does a hard clunk. Whereas once the revs have dropped, the shift is smooth.
The revs at startup suggest the use of an automatic choke and that will be part of what VW have designed to happen - For a reason.
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I also fire the car up & let the revs drop (around 1-2mins) then drive off..
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Why is it different for a F1 racing engine? They are always warmed up before engaging gear?
An F1 engine, and almost all very high performance race engines are pre-heated before starting them by pumping pre-heated fluids into them for a period of time before starting them. The engine is literally at operating temperature when it's started. The 'warm up' procedure of an F1 engine is to ensure all systems are fully functional and operating correctly before heading out. In F1 cars, they even do this to the gearboxes.
As previously mentioned, these engines are literally seized when cold due to the tolerances.
I've had one of my previous cars clock up over 300k kms driving from startup with no problems at all and just regular servicing.
Keep in mind, most people have to reverse out of a driveway before heading off. This is more than enough 'idle' time before driving off.
During Winter, my next door neighbour comes out, starts his engine, then goes back inside to have his cuppa before getting in the car after around 15 to 20 minutes of idling. Best way to reduce the life of an engine.
nice to get the ice of the car i guess but wouldnt someone just steal it when it is sitting there running :evilgrin:
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Why is it different for a F1 racing engine? They are always warmed up before engaging gear?
An F1 engine, and almost all very high performance race engines are pre-heated before starting them by pumping pre-heated fluids into them for a period of time before starting them. The engine is literally at operating temperature when it's started. The 'warm up' procedure of an F1 engine is to ensure all systems are fully functional and operating correctly before heading out. In F1 cars, they even do this to the gearboxes.
As previously mentioned, these engines are literally seized when cold due to the tolerances.
I've had one of my previous cars clock up over 300k kms driving from startup with no problems at all and just regular servicing.
Keep in mind, most people have to reverse out of a driveway before heading off. This is more than enough 'idle' time before driving off.
During Winter, my next door neighbour comes out, starts his engine, then goes back inside to have his cuppa before getting in the car after around 15 to 20 minutes of idling. Best way to reduce the life of an engine.
nice to get the ice of the car i guess but wouldnt someone just steal it when it is sitting there running :evilgrin:
Nah, we live in a cul de sac in a private gated estate, so its fine.
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Imo and it is only my opinion,id go for the set off straight away keeping the revs to a minimum while waiting for the temp to level,im probably on the same page as RR in the respect that i probably love my car way to much,in that i dont want to do anything to compramise the awesome performance of the gti especially as i am now running the k04 upgrade,im probably way to sympathetic to it in regards as the wife says "its only a car" lol but im engineering wise to the effects of driving it sorely if that makes sence lmao
Dougie
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During Winter, my next door neighbour comes out, starts his engine, then goes back inside to have his cuppa before getting in the car after around 15 to 20 minutes of idling. Best way to reduce the life of an engine.
nice to get the ice of the car i guess but wouldnt someone just steal it when it is sitting there running :evilgrin:
....Yes, potentially someone could steal it and there have been many cases of opportunists stealing cars while their owners go back indoors leaving the engine running to defrost/de-ice the glass in winter. AFAIK, the insurance companies deem this as negligence and don't pay out.
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100% right Robin,the insurance company will not pay out if you leave your keys in the ignition or the car running,one of my m8`s did this very thing at a petrol station left the keys in it and the above happend the car got stolen insurance refused to pay out,due to the fact that the car was not properly secured.
Dougie
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What drops out of this discussion when starting up from cold, is that:
- It's not okay to leave the engine idling for a long time after the revs have settled automatically.
- It's not okay to highly rev the engine before a mile or two has been gently driven to get operating temperatures up to normal.
- It's okay to let the engine automatically settle its revs (usually approx a minute) before engaging gear.
- There is no hard evidence of harm being done to the engine by engaging gear before the revs settle except that doing so clunks a DSG and that is better avoided.
- How all this influences mpg is questionable whether it does so at all.
Conclusion is that many of us do indeed love our cars too much (as alleged by wifeys, girlfriends, and partners) and that we would all love to have this startup music to start our day:
^ Proof that a car is much more than just a machine - It lives and breathes!
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It actually states in the handbook that when starting the vehicle, drive off straight away but do not rev the car above 4k rpm, i think it was, untill OIL is up to temp. Dont go off of the temp gauge in the car as that is water temp.
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It actually states in the handbook that when starting the vehicle, drive off straight away but do not rev the car above 4k rpm, i think it was, untill OIL is up to temp. Dont go off of the temp gauge in the car as that is water temp.
....I've always said that VW are wrong not to have included an oil temp gauge on the GTI. I think the GT has one.
I don't like the DSG clunk if I engage gear before the revs settle, so I'm going to continue as I have done and drive off after the revs have automatically settled, which only takes a minute.
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It actually states in the handbook that when starting the vehicle, drive off straight away but do not rev the car above 4k rpm, i think it was, untill OIL is up to temp. Dont go off of the temp gauge in the car as that is water temp.
....I've always said that VW are wrong not to have included an oil temp gauge on the GTI.
You're 100% right, it's daft it doesn't have one as standard.
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It actually states in the handbook that when starting the vehicle, drive off straight away but do not rev the car above 4k rpm, i think it was, untill OIL is up to temp. Dont go off of the temp gauge in the car as that is water temp.
....I've always said that VW are wrong not to have included an oil temp gauge on the GTI. I think the GT has one.
I don't like the DSG clunk if I engage gear before the revs settle, so I'm going to continue as I have done and drive off after the revs have automatically settled, which only takes a minute.
Agreed. The engine coolant heats up significantly faster than the engine oil so judging your vehicle is up to temp by a coolant gauge is misleading.
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The Mk6 GTI doesn't have an oil temp either. I wonder if the Mk7 GTI does, but I ain't holding my breath!
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What are people's views here about the DSG oil 'warm-up'? - In particular respect of experiencing a relatively heavy clunk if engaging gear (reverse) before the revs have automatically settled after ~1 minute.
Thanks :happy2:
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Can't input much into this Robin having a manual. From what you've written though your approach to letting the cold start revs drop then driving off under light load, low rpm unit the car has warmed sufficiently seems to be the most mechanically sympathetic method. All things being equal it should give your engine and gearbox a prolonged life, however to quantify by how much is a little tricky to predict :happy2:
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When my engine (Mk5 GTI K03) first starts up the revs are just over ~1000. I wait for the revs to drop below 1000rpm and for the engine sound to settle before I engage gear. This can take as long as a couple of minutes.
It's kinder to the DSG gearbox and allows fluids to circulate and automatic processes to happen.
I'm not aware of mpg being effected by this at all and wouldn't expect it to be.
Obviously it's also good practice not to use higher revs until at least the temp gauge is centred - Unfortunately the GTI doesn't have an OEM oil temperature gauge.
I am glad I am not the only one who does this - allowing the engine rpm's to settle before moving off. I look at it this way, I don't work well when cold and stiff, but allow me to worm up and I am fine, perhaps being rather tall don't help matters. Anyway back on topic. In the first few minutes, about 10/15min of careful driving, not going over 2500rpm, do I start giving it more right foot. As for MPG, it all depends on the outside temperature; is it -15deg or +30deg, also if you have the A/C on or the heater on/heated seats on, carrying excess weight, tyres inflated correctly etc, etc.... all play a part in your MPG.
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I think it is better to drive the car (not revving too high right away), as it will warm up quicker than sat there idling with no load on the engine.
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Robin, are you sure there is not a fault with your DSG? I start up, engage reverse immediately and have no clunk from my DSG. The only time I have had this was when I engaged Drive without having my foot on the brake, and even then it wasn't bad, just surprising.
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So does anyone know how approximately how long I need to drive at low revs before the OIL is up to temperature?? I always knew that using the coolant temperature gauge was not correct, but in the absence of any other information I think a lot of us use it as a guide.
It sounds like people (who are deeply in love with their GTI's :laugh:) should be installing Polar FIS+ which provides an oil temperature reading.
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a fault with your DSG?
Ker-ching!! ££££$$$$$€€€€€
Manual conversion?? :wink: :laugh: :grin:
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Robin, are you sure there is not a fault with your DSG? I start up, engage reverse immediately and have no clunk from my DSG. The only time I have had this was when I engaged Drive without having my foot on the brake, and even then it wasn't bad, just surprising.
....I'm not 100% sure but fairly sure my DSG box of tricks is ok. My DSG has had more services than the Handbook states as needed and fortunately shows no signs of other problems. However, I leave my car in the garage in 'P' and with the handbrake lever down/off. This is to stop my pads sticking to the discs if the car gets garaged when wet. I don't know if this is a factor or not. I rather think that if this was a DSG problem it would always clunk when engaging reverse.
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I think careful starting and stopping is all well and good but 20 minutes later we ask the engine to rev to 7,000 and the drive train to sort out 230 BHP ++ I think given it stands that it might not mind too much one way or other if it's idling or mild driving for the first minute.
I know autos take the oil temp in the gearbox and change the shifting pattern until it's warm.
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So does anyone know how approximately how long I need to drive at low revs before the OIL is up to temperature?? I always knew that using the coolant temperature gauge was not correct, but in the absence of any other information I think a lot of us use it as a guide.
It sounds like people (who are deeply in love with their GTI's :laugh:) should be installing Polar FIS+ which provides an oil temperature reading.
....I wish I could install a Polar FIS+ but I only have Midline on my GTI and it requires Highline.
I think that in the absence of an oil temp readout, the coolant temp gauge is a reasonable guide to follow and then add a bit more time for good measure - It's better than nothing. Fortunately, where I live obliges a couple of miles of under 30 mph driving anyway, which I do in D-mode, and that naturally takes care of warming up a bit.
I'm not going to be dipping above 4,000 rpm for a few miles anyway.
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If the Mk6 is the same as my Octavia you will find an oil temp gauge available via the MFD.
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I think careful starting and stopping is all well and good but 20 minutes later we ask the engine to rev to 7,000 and the drive train to sort out 230 BHP ++ I think given it stands that it might not mind too much one way or other if it's idling or mild driving for the first minute.
I know autos take the oil temp in the gearbox and change the shifting pattern until it's warm.
....Interesting about the shifting pattern being influenced by the DSG oil temp. :happy2:
As for revving to 7,000 and using the full bhp after say 20 minutes, I very rarely rev above 5,500-6,000 rpm anyway.
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Okay but the engine could do it if you wanted. My point is it's a serious bit of engineering to take those sorts of levels. I don't know if the DSG does it based on temp but I know full auto cars that do.
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I aint got not Highline Clocks to tell me how much mpg im getting but i always let the engine warm up for at least 3 minutes mate.
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I think careful starting and stopping is all well and good but 20 minutes later we ask the engine to rev to 7,000 and the drive train to sort out 230 BHP ++ I think given it stands that it might not mind too much one way or other if it's idling or mild driving for the first minute.
I know autos take the oil temp in the gearbox and change the shifting pattern until it's warm.
....Interesting about the shifting pattern being influenced by the DSG oil temp. :happy2:
As for revving to 7,000 and using the full bhp after say 20 minutes, I very rarely rev above 5,500-6,000 rpm anyway.
DSG is the same... the changes are slower until its warmed up. (or at least thats what I have noticed on mine.)
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Time needed to warm up properly depends what oil temperature we are talking here... On my polar fis if there is 0 degrees outside it takes up to 30 minutes of driving to bring oil to 90 degrees....
Regarding idle warming best to set off stright away. When idle there is no proper lubrication and this is harmful to the engine
Paul
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I aint got not Highline Clocks to tell me how much mpg im getting but i always let the engine warm up for at least 3 minutes mate.
....The Midline display will show you your mpg but I guess you don't have a MFSW (Multi Function Steering Wheel)?
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Time needed to warm up properly depends what oil temperature we are talking here... On my polar fis if there is 0 degrees outside it takes up to 30 minutes of driving to bring oil to 90 degrees....
Regarding idle warming best to set off stright away. When idle there is no proper lubrication and this is harmful to the engine
Paul
....I'm thinking that not driving off from a cold start until the automatic rev settling process has finished (taking about 1 minute), is not enough idling to do any harm. Surely it's not 'idling' until the revs have settled.
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I aint got not Highline Clocks to tell me how much mpg im getting but i always let the engine warm up for at least 3 minutes mate.
....The Midline display will show you your mpg but I guess you don't have a MFSW (Multi Function Steering Wheel)?
I think he has a 1.9 diesel so may have lowline clocks which only show distance travelled, no trip averages etc.
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I aint got not Highline Clocks to tell me how much mpg im getting but i always let the engine warm up for at least 3 minutes mate.
....The Midline display will show you your mpg but I guess you don't have a MFSW (Multi Function Steering Wheel)?
I think he has a 1.9 diesel so may have lowline clocks which only show distance travelled, no trip averages etc.
Yes you are right mine is indeed a 1.9Diesel, But can i have those Highline clocks?
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Yes you sure can, you know the scan you had - get the part number from 17-instruments (makes it easier seeing what you have now - it'll be like 1K0 920 952).
Even midline clocks are a major improvement for what you have. They are similar looking to lowline but allow for trip information.
It looks like you need a replacement wiper stalk too from that scan so perfect excuse to get one with the trip button :happy2:
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Time needed to warm up properly depends what oil temperature we are talking here... On my polar fis if there is 0 degrees outside it takes up to 30 minutes of driving to bring oil to 90 degrees....
Regarding idle warming best to set off stright away. When idle there is no proper lubrication and this is harmful to the engine
Paul
....I'm thinking that not driving off from a cold start until the automatic rev settling process has finished (taking about 1 minute), is not enough idling to do any harm. Surely it's not 'idling' until the revs have settled.
I think Robin whatever you do to your car you do it right which is proven by your mileage!
1 minute on idle does not have much of impact, I was more thinking of letting engine at idel till warm
Paul
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Interesting read. I usually startup and am off in about 30 secs. I always reverse out of my drive and I don’t have a clunk when changing in to R on my DSG. My drive is level but I have noticed a clunk when I have changed gears after being parked on a hill.
I do (try to) keep the revs below 2500rpm at least until the coolant has warmed up.
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I think Robin whatever you do to your car you do it right which is proven by your mileage!
Paul
....Well that's very kind and complimentary, Paul, but in spite of my 104,000 miles I can be wrong! Here's to the next 100k miles.
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Time needed to warm up properly depends what oil temperature we are talking here... On my polar fis if there is 0 degrees outside it takes up to 30 minutes of driving to bring oil to 90 degrees....
Regarding idle warming best to set off stright away. When idle there is no proper lubrication and this is harmful to the engine
Paul
....I'm thinking that not driving off from a cold start until the automatic rev settling process has finished (taking about 1 minute), is not enough idling to do any harm. Surely it's not 'idling' until the revs have settled.
I really think you are over analysing Robin, i really cant see it making that much difference to the overall well-being of the engine
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Robin, I wonder how many minutes you have spent waiting for the revs to drop in 104,000 miles. :surprised:
Probably most of a day in total :grin:
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Robin, I wonder how many minutes you have spent waiting for the revs to drop in 104,000 miles. :surprised:
Probably most of a day in total :grin:
....Possibly, but I have peace of mind.
Are you suggesting that I have wasted a day of my life? :grin:
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Robin, I wonder how many minutes you have spent waiting for the revs to drop in 104,000 miles. :surprised:
Probably most of a day in total :grin:
....Possibly, but I have peace of mind.
Are you suggesting that I have wasted a day of my life? :grin:
Haha I was very careful to avoid the word "wasted" :wink:
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guys i think this discussion has proved one thing, everyone has there own way of starting up and even the car's handbook contradicts the service manager at my local dealer, according to him you should give the engine at least a minute or so to distribute fluids properly instead of forcing it through 5 seconds after the engine has been off.
i think this argument could go on forever here but i tend to agree with the people who let there engines warm up a little,,,, it kind of makes sense,,, i mean you take anything on this planet and ram the arse of it straight away from cold and you are going to have problems, same with your suspension - it takes time to loosen up, brakes as well so why not the engine.
as soon as i start my car on cold morning my rpm is ticking at 900,,,, checked it 4 days in a row and the same every day,,,, keep forgetting to check it say 10 minutes later though,,,
thanks everyone for your input regarding this subject, personally as robin says giving the car a minute or so and keeping the revs down for the first few miles seems the most sensible way, but everyone to there own, that's the one im going for though. :happy2:
PS----- WHERE DOES THAT GUY STAY EXACTLY WHO LEAVES HIS CAR RUNNING,,, :GATE OR NO GATE :jumping:
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It used to make me cringe when I guy at work would basically start up his diesel mondeo and drive away the minute it was off the starter :confused:
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Just a little more to add on this subject. Modern Fully Synthetic oils (Like the Castrol Edge we use) are designed to protect your engine from the moment you turn the key. Modern lubrication systems in the engine are designed to do the same.
Theres millions of engines (not just TFSI's), that get driven straight from cold all over the world without a problem.
Also, that "high idle" is to generate heat to warm up the CAT, as the cat needs the heat to be efficient :happy2:
The key is not to use high revs / load when the engine is cold, that way you warm it up as quickly as possible by driving it (cars dont warm up much at all when idling).
Just my factual 2 pence :grin:
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I would say just drive em without too much load, don't take the Michael with the revs, no positive boost and let the fluids circulate :happy2:
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Also, that "high idle" is to generate heat to warm up the CAT, as the cat needs the heat to be efficient :happy2:
....Good to learn that :happy2:
In the old days, that high but diminishing idle would be an automatic choke on fuelling.
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Also, that "high idle" is to generate heat to warm up the CAT, as the cat needs the heat to be efficient :happy2:
....Good to learn that :happy2:
In the old days, that high but diminishing idle would be an automatic choke on fuelling.
That may also be part of it - the T-FSI retains an automatic choke