MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: celica on June 16, 2009, 06:19:06 pm
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i've read dealer have to take spoiler off for this, which means cutting the bond off just to change 3rd brake light!!
if it is not a great design
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i think it is mate i had mine done about a year ago there screwed into the spoiler from the inside iirc, theres a thread on here somewhere and a member has managed to change his without pulling the spoiler off
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what a rubbish design
mines out of warranty ( i think) but wouldn't trust a dealer to do it anyway
i guess why i read some people with broken ones just leave it
mine has some condensation, but i'll live with it
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yeah if its out of warranty and still working id leave it too, mine was only just working very dull so had to be done. someone was going to try and drill a small hole in it to release the moisture, im not sure how this went though
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Allegedly yes it is a spoiler off job. Worse than that, apparantly the original spoiler is broken in the process so its a new spoiler + spraying.
I was quoted just shy of £400 for this. But I did manage to get goodwill from VW for 50% so if you have a full VW service history etc its worth a shot.
There was a chap on the other forum who bought a car with a dodgy rear light so he took it back to the dealer and they managed to replace it without removing the spoiler. They just carefully broke the old one out and glued a new one in place.
In a month or so I will be trying this myself. If it all goes tits up then I'm no worse off as my light is now completely FUBAR and it needs done anyway but if I can do it myself its £200 in my pocket, not VW's!
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I did mine last weekend without taking the spoiler off, Was a bit brutal and completely broke the old brake light.
First thing i did was use a trim tool to prize the brake light down away from the spoiler after a couple of cracking noises it fell out leaving the 2 captive nuts and screw to be slid out of the spoiler.
Then unplug the light and plug the new one in, Push the grommet back into the hole and job done for the wiring.
Now take some double sided trim tape an put 2 little pieces on the rear of the brake light, Push the remaining wiring into the spoiler and locate the brake light into position till you here it click into place. the brake light will hold in anyway on the clip but the trim tape is just to make sure.
Total price £34.79 and half an hours easy work.
Not bad compared to VW quote of around £300. :wink:
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Hmn, I would rather do this than break my spoiler... must investigate.
Edit: Do you have a part# for the third light?
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Taken from my other topic in how to section
Just ordered my brake light from the dealer.
Part number is 1K6 945 097F (changed from revision E to F now) @ £34.79.
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I did mine last weekend without taking the spoiler off, Was a bit brutal and completely broke the old brake light.
First thing i did was use a trim tool to prize the brake light down away from the spoiler after a couple of cracking noises it fell out leaving the 2 captive nuts and screw to be slid out of the spoiler.
Then unplug the light and plug the new one in, Push the grommet back into the hole and job done for the wiring.
Now take some double sided trim tape an put 2 little pieces on the rear of the brake light, Push the remaining wiring into the spoiler and locate the brake light into position till you here it click into place. the brake light will hold in anyway on the clip but the trim tape is just to make sure.
Total price £34.79 and half an hours easy work.
Not bad compared to VW quote of around £300. :wink:
Good job! Thats what I'm going to do when I'm back from offshore. I was thinking of using Silkaflex to glue the old one back in - any thoughts on that?
Thanks for being the guinnea pig :happy2:
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I have just booked mine into VW to have this done under warrenty, they guy told me that it wouldnt be covered if its just changing a bulb :grin: i said if i could change it i wouldn't be calling!
He wasn't aware it was so much hassle.
on another unhappy note £10 a day for a curtsy car!!! a polo!!
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Just done this myself after a bit of reading around. No need to remove spoiler to fit replacement hi-level third brake light. Dealer will likely say it does and with labour rates it won't be cheap. New LED unit easy enough to find on ebay for @ £25. Removing old one means the gentle breaking and snapping off the outside lens bit by bit then the same for the black plastic and LEDs. All doable with some patience. I made a few drills holes to make the breaking off of plastic easier.
Once removed pull the light cable and rubber grommet out from inside the wing - be careful not to stretch the cable too much behind the grommet (the back cable and connector only just make it out of the wing by an inch or less) . Unclip the connector and reconnect the new light. New cable next pushed back through, and it will also pass over a small gap at the top of a tab close to the round hole. Carefully centrally locate the light unit and with an eye and a bit of feel gently but firmly press back and up in. Job done. Took me 30 mins max (but could do quicker). Patience and gentle working resulted in zero wing and light recess damage or markings.
Apparently is required to pass the MOT as the lights were fitted for Type Approval at the time and that is catch. However, some testers probably not sure or don't care. Hope this helps.
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Mine passed without it working this year. It was only because it was listed as an advisory that I became aware it wasn't working!
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That's good. Seems a bit of a grey area of interpretation. I always thought that unlike the 'proper' main brake lights, hi-level lights were optional or non-mandatory. It's this 'Type Approval' requirement I didn't know about - i.e. the manufacturer seeks type approval for the vehicle and all its' lighting components and fittings as standard. Still can't see how any (independent) MOT station would make it an issue - however, I suspect an MOT with a main dealer would ("and it'll cost you £350 to fix this for the MOT madam")
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"If it's fitted to the car, make sure it works before booking in an MOT" is what a tester once told me, in order to avoid any advisories or fails.
Years ago I got into debates with testers about reversing lights and front fog lights not working, which at the time weren't required to work to pass the MOT..... but now I just stick to that sage piece of advice because lets be honest, even advisories don't look great on a car's MOT track record, and hints at owner neglect (what else is neglected?). Straight passes only in my book :smiley:
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Bit annoying and confusing for some I guess. If thinking the MOT is about roadworthiness and 'is it safe? then some would argue what have fog lights and reversing lights to do with it? Plenty of older and classic cars without either. Can only be a case of 'if it's fitted it must be working'. Think the same still applies with carrying a spare wheel - tyre must have full tread etc. However, a spare wheel is not mandatory, so you can take it out and leave at home when going for the MOT.
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Yerp, and rear seat belts. If they've been removed, then they can't be tested, therefore cannot fail :grin: Although that might have changed in recent years. I remember it being a sticking point for track day cars at one point.
As far as roadworthiness goes.....you could have different brands of dampers, springs and tyres on each corner and pass, so long as they're not leaking, snapped or bald :grin:
I keep hearing a rumour about 2 year MOTs. I can only imagine that will apply to cars below an age limit, otherwise all manner of knackered sheds will escape the net. It does make sense though because the annual MOT started in 1974. Cars made since 1974 have changed somewhat :grin: