MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: lippyx on December 21, 2012, 08:50:31 am
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Hi,
This subject has probably died a death now, and sorry if this post goes on a bit, but I wonder if anyone has experienced what I have?
I have a GT 170 on an 08 plate. Got it in February, and all been OK (oh.. other than a new turbo, and exhaust sensor which went through warranty)
Since spring/summer it has been idling really lumpy, but not all the time. There is no particular thing that seems to set it off... it does it so randomly and sometimes its very slight and sometimes the whole car is shaking! Plus the DPF light has come on a fews times.
It's been to the dealer about 3 times now. The first time they said it was a sensor in the exhaust. the second time they changed the fuel filter and manually cleaned the DFP. The third time (last week) they manually cleaned it again, and said what was happening is the DPF is continually doing a regeneration hence the lumpy idling. I was told its a "common factory fault" in the mk 5's and all they can do is manually clear it for me when the DPF light comes up.
What makes me laugh is last week when I took it in, they manually cleared the DPF and said it should be fine for a while... I pull out of the dealers, waiting by their exit, and the car starts running lumpy again, and now a week on, its STILL doing it!
The fumes really smell of burning soot too... which, according to the dealer, is normal for this time of year (??)
I drive over 40 miles a day, on the motorway, easily doing over 50 mph for over half hour, which, according to the "rule book", this is when it would do a regeneration. Its not like I drive round town all day, everyday.
I am planning to take it back before the warranty runs out, and tell them that this is NOT normal! Has anyone else had a similar issue with this model before? Your experiences?
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The DPF's are notorious for acting up. Mine is an 08 GT Sport and would run like a heap of crap alot of the time. Dead jerky on the throttle and surging about all the time. My commute is around 13 miles, mostly national speed limit stuff. The best thing to do is to have it removed and thrown in the bin.
I had mine done at Shark along with a remap but I know they do a stage 0 which is just DPF removal without the map if that's the way you want to go. Not sure what other tuners offer.
I wouldn't bother with the dealers anymore becasue I don't think you will get anywhere. Say they swap the DPF but as it clogs up again over time you will be back to square one. A mates go so blocked that it just wouldn't run. It was casuing back pressure throught the exhaust and turbo with fumes passing seals etc. He also found it has belt a valve. Whether this was due the the same issue I'm not sure but all I know is they are better out than in.
Driveability was greatly improve in mine once it was gone. No more jerking about and very smooth.
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heres some info you may find usefull:
http://www.dyno-tuning.co.uk/dpfRemoval/
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We do 5+ DPF removals a week, many of them on the 2.0 PPD engine (same as yours). The problem you have is that once the DPF gets near the end of its life the regeneration process alone cant clear the core of the DPF effectively and it will keep blocking and regenerating, eventually getting stuck in a cycle and will bring on these lights:
Flashing coil
DPF box light lit solid
EML lit solid
Once you get to this stage it will also be in limp mode and unable to regenerate, the only option then is replacement or removal. Replacement can cost £1500+ and removal is usually £400-500, so you can see why we carry out so many removals.
Beware of cheap removal options, they often just remove the diagnostic trouble code areas of the map and not actually re calibrate the regeneration, boost and fuel mapping. We have one of these in today in a Leon, was done on the cheap and smokes at idle, really nasty toxic smell from the exhaust, its not in limp mode, no lights on the dash but its stuck in regeneration.
Dealers rarely offer replacement under warranty unfortunately.
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Does anyone do a DPF removal and remap for a 2010 140bhp yet,last time i looked it wasnt possible.
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We offer DPF removal for EVERY vag model including the 1.6cr. Have done loads on the 2009> 2.0cr engines as a local taxi company uses them.
140/143cr Stage 2 with DPF removal = 211bhp and 340ftlb. Shockingly good figures.
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I thought it was possible on 2009 but on 2010 onwards somthing was changed and it wasnt possible?
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Dave... how does the 170CR perform with the DPF? I presume that you would (based on REVO maps) run a stage 2 map after the removal?
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I thought it was possible on 2009 but on 2010 onwards somthing was changed and it wasnt possible?
We have never had an issue, can see why lots of others would though as its far more complex than your average software coding.
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Dave... how does the 170CR perform with the DPF? I presume that you would (based on REVO maps) run a stage 2 map after the removal?
170cr will see 220bhp and more torque than the clutch can handle.
REVO offer no DPF removal software, we code it all in house.
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Dave... how does the 170CR perform with the DPF? I presume that you would (based on REVO maps) run a stage 2 map after the removal?
170cr will see 220bhp and more torque than the clutch can handle.
REVO offer no DPF removal software, we code it all in house.
Ahh ok.. my friends just gone REVO stage one on his VRS octavia 170CR, so unlikely to go DPF delete if REVO don't offer it. :sad1:
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Would need to lose the Revo unfortunately.
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TBH i think hes happy with stage 1... its quite a big performance increase. :driver:
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Just tell him to keep using the low ash oil and regular long runs and the DPF will be fine, the 170cr runs a lot of boost as standard to keep the exhaust gasses clean.
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Low ash oil? Link/Info please :happy2:
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http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Low_Ash_Oil_Collection.aspx
When the oil burns in an engine, naturally it emits some gas but some of these gases could be harmful to a DPF. Low SAPS oils are specifically designed to be low in Sulphated Ash – a by-product of combustion that can cause the ‘mesh’ structure in a DPF to become irreversibly blocked. Such oils that are not low in Phosphorus and Sulphur can also have a significant, detrimental effect on Catalytic Converters – so the issue of getting the right engine oil is relevant to petrol and diesel vehicles alike.
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hello
First post but I have been lurking around in the background for a while now. I am a previous member SEAT CUPRA. NET having owned a 1.6 CR Seat Ibiza Sport :drinking:. Great car however the problems with the DPF were unreal ! The car was eventually sold as it was going to cost far too much money to have sorted out everytime the DPF decided to act up for a brand new car with less than 10k miles. I eventually took the plunge and went for a one owner Mk5 GT TDI 170 knowing fine well it was a DPF model. I was advised by the Indy that i use to run it on Super Diesel and i can honestly say I have never looked back. Never seen the DPF light once compared to everyday with the ibiza and only rarely does it go into regen mode ( if it does its only 10 mins or so) .
It would seem to me that these mystical things called DPF's are just that and that they cannot be predicted however I would highly recommend using better fuel or run a diesel treatment through the system to either promote regen or keep everything sweet under the hood and in the exhaust.
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Thanks for all the tips. A few questions though.
Firstly, how does removing the DPF affect the running, emissions, warranty etc? Do you think putting just super-diesel in rather than the standard stuff would make any difference?
The car has done just under 60k, and has been well looked after. The dealer did tell me to think about selling it when it gets close to 100k as that is when the DPF's eventually give up and at £1500 I'm not sure I want to be the owner when it does. Apparently the Mk 6's don't have any DPF issues according to the dealer!
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i had a Leon PPD PD170, Quite alot had been done to it, Darkside Developments EGR Delete, Milltek DPF Delete pipe, Scorpion Cat-Back (No Boxes at all) amongst other things.
Ran several DPF Delete maps on it
JBS/Custom Code "Wild" DPF delete map (Stuttered alot)
JBS/Custom Code "Wild" V2 DPF Delete map (stutter was solved)
Shark Stage 0 (felt suprisingly good)
Shark Stage 2 (went very well)
Shark Stage 2+ (this was not for road use because of the amount of smoke)
Went though 2 MOT's fine, never broke down, and was a great car for me, only sold it because i wanted 300+bhp and at the time Darkside wern't releasing Turbo kits for the PPD PD170 so i bought a 2.0Tfsi